GrassLakeRon
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Big U-Joint
- Thread starter D2Cat
- Start date
Well yeah a CV joint is actually a double cardan .... without the rubber boot.
So we are all correct...
However If you walk into a jeep shop or 4WD shop and tell them you need a CV joint for your Jeep XJ front shaft they will laugh you out of the shop.
The commonly used terminology is double cardan joints for driveshafts and CV joints for front axles... especially front wheel drive cars and even VW bugs.
speaking of jeeps, some guys will use a double cardan joint on the back also along with a slip yoke eliminator... that way if you bust the rear shaft out in the woods you can use the front shaft in back.
double joint in back also helps with extreme driveshaft angles on lifted rigs.
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
gee, all I did when the rear driveshaft broke, was yank it out,lock hubs,go 4WH and drive away....
mcmxi
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North Idaho Wolfman
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If you use google as your browser you can right click on an image and do the same thing.
Donystoy
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This is what I have always known a CV joint to be. At least in the automotive industry. Not sure if they would use this style in large industrial applications. Making a rubber boot large enough and strong enough could be an issue. Besides, how much grease would you need.
They used the ball and cage style CV joints on a LOT of different stuff. Automotive especially (front and IRS rear usually). BUT they've started playing with them in high speed drive shafts as well in the last few years. I started to order one for the Mustang but decided against it, as at the time CV joints were still "new" for that application. Sure reduces vibration I'm told.
I play with them at work on a daily basis (Off road vehicles) and see how they typically fail. If they fail, it's gonna be a few major reasons. Boot tore and let dirt/water in (#1 cause) and/or excessive angle combined with load or shock load usually. Either breaks the cage and sends it through the boot eventually OR breaks the axle shaft off in a severe shock load. Those are the most common causes although there are considerably more.
The ball/cage style also tends to generate some heat due to friction and that is also dependent on the angle that the joint is asked to run at. "We" (you?) put a big lift kit on your rig and don't address the CV joint angles and then next thing you know, we're griping because the joints get hot and the boots swell. Some of the aftermarket (non oem) axles will tolerate a little more angle before they show signs of heat, but ideally if you're gonna lift it "that" much, it's better to go to a portal gear lift. Then you have 4, 6, 8, 10" of lift from the portals themselves, plus a gear reduction which significantly reduces the load on the axles transmission etc AND reduces the angle on the CV joints. Expensive to do the portals but worth it if you're gonna be in a lot of soft stuff especially. Also moves the tires outward a little, which gives you room for bigger tires. We did a rzr a while back with 8" portals with a lift, on 55" tires. That was a big dude, I'm 6'7" and it was hard for me to get into it!
I play with them at work on a daily basis (Off road vehicles) and see how they typically fail. If they fail, it's gonna be a few major reasons. Boot tore and let dirt/water in (#1 cause) and/or excessive angle combined with load or shock load usually. Either breaks the cage and sends it through the boot eventually OR breaks the axle shaft off in a severe shock load. Those are the most common causes although there are considerably more.
The ball/cage style also tends to generate some heat due to friction and that is also dependent on the angle that the joint is asked to run at. "We" (you?) put a big lift kit on your rig and don't address the CV joint angles and then next thing you know, we're griping because the joints get hot and the boots swell. Some of the aftermarket (non oem) axles will tolerate a little more angle before they show signs of heat, but ideally if you're gonna lift it "that" much, it's better to go to a portal gear lift. Then you have 4, 6, 8, 10" of lift from the portals themselves, plus a gear reduction which significantly reduces the load on the axles transmission etc AND reduces the angle on the CV joints. Expensive to do the portals but worth it if you're gonna be in a lot of soft stuff especially. Also moves the tires outward a little, which gives you room for bigger tires. We did a rzr a while back with 8" portals with a lift, on 55" tires. That was a big dude, I'm 6'7" and it was hard for me to get into it!