L295DT No Start

[Soiled]

After posting on a leaking steering actuator and clunking Rt rear wheel I now have a new problem. It won’t start. Nada, nothing. Battery good. Cables good. Top 10 amp fuse out. Check wiring diagram in service manual and states for ignition. Ok, so the keyed switch was starting to spin around when turning it to the first position. Maybe some wires crossed behind the panel and shorted it. Remove the screws to the panel, lift it up to where I can pull out switch assembly. Wires are fine and securely attached to the switch. However there is an individual blue/white wire and an individual blue/red wire both capped off but with their outer insulation worn in a couple of places….????? So I wrap those with electrical tape in case they came in contact with each other or grounded against the frame. Try again to start and nothing, not even a peep. Fuse intact. I do have a volt meter but clueless on how to check the switch with it. What’s even more of a nightmare is the frayed wiring to and behind the hour meter when I looked at that. But I digress.

 

[Russell King]

I posted a wiring diagram under this thread

Electrical - Wiring Diagrams

"Diagrams may vary depending on the Exact model, serial number, region and options equipped" Hopefully those looking for an electrical-wiring diagrams for a given tractor can find them here. Those that are willing to share, please make the POST TITLE that starts with the tractor specific...

www.orangetractortalks.com

Do you have the second starter/glow plug switch or has the main switch been replaced with some automotive type key switch?

Do you know know how to use a wire or screwdriver to bypass the switch (jump) the starter?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You should have a large red wire going to the switch, see if you have power to that wire.
If you don't then you have blown the fusible link, it will be just above the starter.

 

[Soiled]

You should have a large red wire going to the switch, see if you have power to that wire.
If you don't then you have blown the fusible link, it will be just above the starter.

I have the secondary starter to heat the glow plugs and start the tractor, I have the E diagram and though it might as well be trying to find my way around a maze, , I can get the gist of it. Was wondering about a second fuse somewhere but didn’t see it in the diagram. Shall check that when home from work. Thanks for putting me on the scent.

 

[Soiled]

I have the secondary starter to heat the glow plugs and start the tractor, I have the E diagram and though it might as well be trying to find my way around a maze, , I can get the gist of it. Was wondering about a second fuse somewhere but didn’t see it in the diagram. Shall check that when home from work. Thanks for putting me on the scent.

And I’m sorry to say, I don’t know how to jump the starter. You’d think at 70 I’d have done this at least once by now.

 

[Soiled]

And I’m sorry to say, I don’t know how to jump the starter. You’d think at 70 I’d have done this at least once by now.

Attached multimeter to battery. 12.6 v. The lead off the battery to the starter 12.6 also. At the keyed assy the incoming hot 11.9 v. When placing the key in and turning it to 1st position, the position to power the secondary switch to heat glow plugs and then turn the engine over notes no voltage to either post on the back of the key assy (15461-63016). I would think the incoming hot would stay hot but not the case. I’m ass..uming the switch has gone bad? Full replacement switch pricing out at ~$450.00.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Check your glass fuses. Remove them and polish the contacts where they sit. Switches do go bad but not very often.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

$450 ???
3508031820 , $110 CDN !!

 

[Soiled]

$450 ???
3508031820 , $110 CDN !!

States for a L2950DT. I have a L295DT. Interchangeable?

 

[RCW]

States for a L2950DT. I have a L295DT. Interchangeable?

No - check for the correct part number.

 

[Russell King]

I see it as about $90 for the whole thing including the keys

 

[Soiled]

Yes Sir that one will work. My pocket book and myself thank you greatly. Now to attend to other issues discovered under the panel. I’m getting the impression that the fun and education never ends with these things.

 

[Vlach7]

My L305 had a similar issue once, was the fuse on the firewall, rewired it with a reset fuse of similar amps which was a high amp one. Still works according to the neighbor I sold it to.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Part Details | Coleman Equipment

Keys Not Included

www.colemanequip.com

only $50 !

 

[Soiled]

https://www.colemanequip. com/parts...nition-Switch--Keys-Not-Included/37150-31820/

only $50 !

Thanks G but for about $30 more I got it with keys. However I’m not opposed at times with making things work with a flat head screwdriver and a hammer. . And I do appreciate everyone’s input. God Bless

 

[Soiled]

Thanks G but for about $30 more I got it with keys. However I’m not opposed at times with making things work with a flat head screwdriver and a hammer. . And I do appreciate everyone’s input. God Bless

Still scratching my head on this problem. Got the panel pulled to look at what was/is going on behind it and several or more wires chewed on exposing bare wire but not looking fresh and not appearing to be grounding to any metal but wrapped them up or applied heat shrink to cover them. Installed the new keyed switch and no change from old keyed switch. Prior comment that this was unlikely the problem proved to be the case. After studying the wire diagram for some time, a long time, the 10 amp fuse that went out was to the headlights and not to the keyed switch. For the life of me I could not find the safety switch connected to the clutch. But having some comprehension with the wiring diagram I found the color coded wire for it and located it on the opposite side of the tractor near the brake pedals. I placed some feel gauges between the switch and clutch pad to make sure pressure was applied to compress and make internal contact of the switch and nothing. Pulled the rubber housing off the switch to exposing two wires and placed a screw driver across them and nothing when attempting to start. It seems to me that this would be occurring if no voltage is getting to the starter or the clutch safety switch. I mention the foregoing so it be known that those items have been investigated. The following is what keeps the marbles in my head bouncing around like a pachinko machine; Voltage at the battery 12.49. Voltage from battery to starter the same. Voltage to keyed switch without keyed turned to on position 11.66. When the keyed is turned to start position the Voltage becomes negligible at 0.03 and checking the voltage out to the dash starter from the keyed switch notes 0.0. With the key in the on position the 0.03 volts drop to 0.0 if I push the clutch in. I read somewhere that even though the battery had 12 volts it was the problem. The date on the battery puts it well past the dated life for guarantee so I’m wondering if this is what should be replaced next. Fuse panel contacts cleaned and shiny. Pulled connections to them and cleaned as best I could. Change the battery???

 

[Russell King]

Yes use a known good battery from your vehicle or buy a new one and try it.

Clean the battery terminals until shiny and all four ends of the battery cables and where they connect to.

 

[Soiled]

Yes use a known good battery from your vehicle or buy a new one and try it.

Clean the battery terminals until shiny and all four ends of the battery cables and where they connect to.

Placed jumper cables from my truck on the tractor’s battery with no success. Then proceeded to do a deep dive on every contact I could find. When I pulled the glow plug/starter switch I found some more wires tucked back under the console that had been chewed on. When I got to the starter itself the black/white wire that attaches to the glow plug/starter switch to the clutch safety switch has a push connector and pulling it off was definitely dirty. Though a lot of the other connections were dirty there was still some shine on them. This one didn’t. So after a complete cleaning of contacts and repairing chewed wiring it started up. Though it seems the wire to the starter was most likely the problem, if I hadn’t started with pulling the console to get to the keyed switch, which I’m happy to have replaced with a new one, the chewed wires would have remained to at some point, create another type of chaos. Thanks to all on this one.