I bought a new-to-me Kubota M4500DT. The intention of this post is to show pictures (because most like to see pictures) and some insight where to source difficult to find parts for this model. I wanted to get everything working again (lights, gauges, etc.) but I wasn’t going to spend a fortune to find OEM parts. So this is a bit of a budget build with a lot of parts I had around. I’ve attached a table with details where to find these parts. Sorry if this writeup got lengthy but I wanted to keep it detailed enough that maybe someone else can make use of all the time I put into this tractor. Here's the table of mostly aftermarket parts I used.
The tractor was complete but the sheet metal on the front was very rough shape. A previous operator must've ran it into something and then worse, welded it all together just to stay put. Because the front sheet metal was dented in so bad, there was no room for the air cleaner so someone punched a hole in the side panel and ran it out the side. As you’ll see in the pictures, I ended up replacing the original grill and built my own. It’s not perfect but it’s better shape than the dented and welded up one.
I adjusted the rocker arm-valve clearances, changed all the fluids (I typically usual manufacturer fluid when it comes to hyd/trans), filters, hoses, etc. The wiring was completely gutted and just the basic wires to start the tractor were pretty much there. I also replaced the glow plugs.
So then there was the wiring project. I bought a multipurpose fuse block which used the blade fuses- a block like you’d typically see in a boat. I bought a general purpose flasher for the hazard lights and a voltage regulator compatible with the alternator. These 3 components were bolted to the firewall between the engine and fuel tank as shown in the picture.
I found a new alternator for this model along with a 3-terminal connector to plug into the alternator. After a bunch of research to figure out the wiring diagram for the regulator, I was able to wire that to the alternator to the Amps idiot light.
On the dash, the tach, water temperature, and a broken oil pressure gauge (in place of the fuel gauge) were there but nothing was wired of course. I replaced the broken oil pressure gauge with a new one and found new dash lights on Amazon for all 3 gauges. I then proceeded with running the wires from the fuse box to the dash as shown in the attached picture. I also replaced the heavily corroded idiot lights and sockets.
Instead of buying a $70 Kubota start/glow plug switch, I bought a general purpose key switch with a position for glow plugs. One item I could not find was a 40A glow plug indicator for Kubota. There are a ton of 20A ones out there that fit in the cutout in the dash. So what I did was use one of these 20A indicators, remove the filament wire, and replace with a 40A glow plug indicator strip (you can find off Amazon or Ebay for like $8).
Another challenging simple item for this model was a tach cable. I could find a bunch of Kubota ones but were all too short. I believe one end is M10 and other is M11 threads. So what I ended up doing was buying 2 of the shorter Kubota cables and joining together with a coupler as shown in the picture. Wasn’t as clean as a single cable but at least I have a functioning tach.
I replaced the power steering hoses and auxiliary hydraulic hoses by getting ones built at Discount Hydraulic Hose for about $22 each including the fittings. The fittings on the end are NPT (swivel on one end and straight on other).
The PTO seal was leaking. I could not find the replacement Kubota one for the life of me. I even tried cross referencing from SKF and Timken but wouldn’t cross reference. Finally I went old school and obtained the metric measurements of the existing one with calipers. After buying about 5 seals of various sizes, I found out the size that worked was 38mm x 58mm x 10mm (or 8mm width). Attached is a picture of one from SKF.
Also if you need replacement lug nuts, you can find Dorman ones (M16x1.5). See the table for the source.
The 3 point linkages were removed before I bought the tractor. I ended up building/buying my own. The tractor is ~50hp so I didn’t want to limit it with the category 1 lift arms that came with the tractor. So what I did was buy a pair of category 1 rod ends to weld to the tractor side of the lift arms. Then I bought a pair of category 2 rod ends to weld to the implement side. I have a small 3 point cultivator with category 2 pins so this allows me to use this Kubota with the cultivator if desired. I bought the leveling arms off Ebay new. The lift arms were obtained from a local metal shop (1” x 3” bar).
I’m sure I left out other details of work I did but I’m going to wrap it up there. Here are some additional shots, along with one next to my IH 784.
The tractor was complete but the sheet metal on the front was very rough shape. A previous operator must've ran it into something and then worse, welded it all together just to stay put. Because the front sheet metal was dented in so bad, there was no room for the air cleaner so someone punched a hole in the side panel and ran it out the side. As you’ll see in the pictures, I ended up replacing the original grill and built my own. It’s not perfect but it’s better shape than the dented and welded up one.
I adjusted the rocker arm-valve clearances, changed all the fluids (I typically usual manufacturer fluid when it comes to hyd/trans), filters, hoses, etc. The wiring was completely gutted and just the basic wires to start the tractor were pretty much there. I also replaced the glow plugs.
So then there was the wiring project. I bought a multipurpose fuse block which used the blade fuses- a block like you’d typically see in a boat. I bought a general purpose flasher for the hazard lights and a voltage regulator compatible with the alternator. These 3 components were bolted to the firewall between the engine and fuel tank as shown in the picture.
I found a new alternator for this model along with a 3-terminal connector to plug into the alternator. After a bunch of research to figure out the wiring diagram for the regulator, I was able to wire that to the alternator to the Amps idiot light.
On the dash, the tach, water temperature, and a broken oil pressure gauge (in place of the fuel gauge) were there but nothing was wired of course. I replaced the broken oil pressure gauge with a new one and found new dash lights on Amazon for all 3 gauges. I then proceeded with running the wires from the fuse box to the dash as shown in the attached picture. I also replaced the heavily corroded idiot lights and sockets.
Instead of buying a $70 Kubota start/glow plug switch, I bought a general purpose key switch with a position for glow plugs. One item I could not find was a 40A glow plug indicator for Kubota. There are a ton of 20A ones out there that fit in the cutout in the dash. So what I did was use one of these 20A indicators, remove the filament wire, and replace with a 40A glow plug indicator strip (you can find off Amazon or Ebay for like $8).
Another challenging simple item for this model was a tach cable. I could find a bunch of Kubota ones but were all too short. I believe one end is M10 and other is M11 threads. So what I ended up doing was buying 2 of the shorter Kubota cables and joining together with a coupler as shown in the picture. Wasn’t as clean as a single cable but at least I have a functioning tach.
I replaced the power steering hoses and auxiliary hydraulic hoses by getting ones built at Discount Hydraulic Hose for about $22 each including the fittings. The fittings on the end are NPT (swivel on one end and straight on other).
The PTO seal was leaking. I could not find the replacement Kubota one for the life of me. I even tried cross referencing from SKF and Timken but wouldn’t cross reference. Finally I went old school and obtained the metric measurements of the existing one with calipers. After buying about 5 seals of various sizes, I found out the size that worked was 38mm x 58mm x 10mm (or 8mm width). Attached is a picture of one from SKF.
Also if you need replacement lug nuts, you can find Dorman ones (M16x1.5). See the table for the source.
The 3 point linkages were removed before I bought the tractor. I ended up building/buying my own. The tractor is ~50hp so I didn’t want to limit it with the category 1 lift arms that came with the tractor. So what I did was buy a pair of category 1 rod ends to weld to the tractor side of the lift arms. Then I bought a pair of category 2 rod ends to weld to the implement side. I have a small 3 point cultivator with category 2 pins so this allows me to use this Kubota with the cultivator if desired. I bought the leveling arms off Ebay new. The lift arms were obtained from a local metal shop (1” x 3” bar).
I’m sure I left out other details of work I did but I’m going to wrap it up there. Here are some additional shots, along with one next to my IH 784.
