Broken Oil Drain Plug
- Thread starter dlm
- Start date
As I used to tell customers when I was a Mac Tools guy-
The only good extractor is the one you don't have to use.
The only good extractor is the one you don't have to use.
Okay, I’m not touching the EZ out for now. I tried pulling on the plug with vice grips while turning it and no luck. When turning it cycles between easy and hard. I assume it’s hard when the threads are crossing.
What’s my next move?
How difficult is it to remove the oil pan? It looks like I would need to remove the pin to drop the front axel and then remove the 10 bolts on either side of the pan.
What’s my next move?
How difficult is it to remove the oil pan? It looks like I would need to remove the pin to drop the front axel and then remove the 10 bolts on either side of the pan.
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fried1765
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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
An easy out is irrelevant if the bolt is spinning.......
Either hold the bolt with something and drill it out or remove the pan.
Either hold the bolt with something and drill it out or remove the pan.
Maybe you can take something thin, like a putty knife, and put it under the head of the bolt and pry as you turn. It might work it's way as you put pressure on it.
That's what I'd do. Or pry with a screw driver under the vise grip jaws while slowly working it around. OP, you're going to have the same problem if you remove the pan.
fried1765
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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Yup,.... but the pan, on a workbench, and sitting upside down, seems like a lot better working environment
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yea you might as well just jump right in and pull the oil pan and either fix it or replace it.
But you will find out really quickly you can not remove the pin, you will need to drop the whole front frame and radiator to get the axle out of the way to get the pan off.
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Runs With Scissors
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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
If the putty knife trick (or small screw driver) does not work, I think it is time to drop the pan as well.
If it were me, I would replace the pan instead of trying to fix it.
That seems like a decent amount of work to have to do, just to have your repair possibly not work/leak.
I have never done an oil pan on a tractor, so i don't know how "torque sensitive" they are, but you might consider buying a "decent" torque wrench and torque it according to the manual.
There is a certain "hard to describe" feeling you get when you put something together, and it leaks cause you didn't torque it properly.........
If it were me, I would replace the pan instead of trying to fix it.
That seems like a decent amount of work to have to do, just to have your repair possibly not work/leak.
I have never done an oil pan on a tractor, so i don't know how "torque sensitive" they are, but you might consider buying a "decent" torque wrench and torque it according to the manual.
There is a certain "hard to describe" feeling you get when you put something together, and it leaks cause you didn't torque it properly.........
I have added drain plugs to pans that didn't have one by drilling a hole in the pan, and then bolting a bolt and nut to the pan through the hole. Weld the nut in place, and then remove the drain bolt. Then I took a cutoff wheel and cut down 2 sides of the nut till the cut was even with the pan metal. Put the pan back up and install a drain bolt with a copper washer. It worked like a charm and no more dropping the transmission pan to do a fluid change.
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
the 'snapping sound' might have been the two tiny tack welds that hold the nut in place inside the oil pan ??
IF so,pan HAS to come off
IF so,pan HAS to come off
Good point. If that turns out to be the case, then all that needs to be done is to reweld the nut to the inside of the pan.
TheOldHokie
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The picture of the used pan seems to show a bung installed and welded from the outside. I would think you could see the bung spinning if the welds are broken???Yea you might as well just jump right in and pull the oil pan and either fix it or replace it.
But you will find out really quickly you can not remove the pin, you will need to drop the whole front frame and radiator to get the axle out of the way to get the pan off.
KUBOTA B5200D D750 ENGINE OIL PAN 15371-01614 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for KUBOTA B5200D D750 ENGINE OIL PAN 15371-01614 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
View attachment 126318
Dan
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
SEE ??? I don't see well, upside down as bifocal are a royal PITA in that position......
Interesting about he weld, makes sense as it seals the bung to the pan....
Interesting about he weld, makes sense as it seals the bung to the pan....
Looking at the pic Wolfman posted…. I’d drill it out….and ream/tap the “boss” oversized…and install a new oversized drain plug…. before I’d do all that extra work of trying to remove or replace the pan.
There are a number of aftermarket drain plugs which can do this job.
There are a number of aftermarket drain plugs which can do this job.
Runs With Scissors
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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Good idea.
I guess the only possible "hiccup" would be if a chunk of bolt/bung/nut breaks free and is in the oil pan.
Just something to watch out for.
I suppose some of this depends on the OP's confidence in himself, or his willingness to learn new skills.
This is NOT a recommendation, only an idea.
You could "kick the can down the road" by sucking the oil out, them smothering some epoxy like Marine Tex 5200 (or 4200 or JB weld...) to cover the bolt head and leaking area.
Then you could use a "suction machine" to do your oil changes from then on.
(I can already hear people screaming "YOU BLASPHEMOUS HACK !!!!!!!")
I have one of these, but there are many others at the big A, and they work like a charm on "most" vehicles (except my L2501 which has a spilt pan). I use it for my boat and other stuff too.
https://www.hodgesmarine.com/jab17850-1012-jabsco-diy-oil-change-system-w-pump-and-35-gallo.html
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I don't think that any "smearing" of a sealant is going to solve his dilemma. This needs to be dealt with properly and repaired. I agree with sucking the oil out, and I have 2 of those draining suckers. I can't remember when the last time was that I removed a drain plug. Oh yeah, it was last summer when I changed the oil on my 1962 Chevrolet.
Runs With Scissors
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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Although I agree, and I, most likely, would yank the pan and replace/fix it.
However, I respectfully submit that if he has one of those "suction machines" there is no need to ever have to pull that plug again. (at least not that I can think of)
So if he can get a good seal with a "permanent industrial epoxy" or maybe he knows some one to weld/braze it in place.....or whatever, he could be up and running in no time at minimal cost.
Just sayin....