L185DT Bent Bevel Gear Shaft

[TwitchyMcJoe]

Hey everyone,

Does anyone have parts for the FWD portion of a L185DT? What started as a weeping oil seal has turned out to be a bent bevel shaft, causing the oil seals to fail.

I think the castings are okay, I have the WSM, but getting parts is a concern.

Should I replace the entire assembly? Castings and all?

 

[D2Cat]

Send a PM to "007Kubotaguy" here. He probably has what you need.

 

[rbargeron]

I think you'll find the shaft is not bent - but the bearings on it are in bad shape. Parts 16 and 22in the diagram below. The bearings are industry-standard B6206 common ball bearings - often available at auto parts stores - around $10 each.

The oil seal part number was 37650-43490 - now updated to 35226-43490 - about $25 + shipping from many sellers.

The gears could be a bit chewed from running misaligned with bad bearings but may still be functional - best to get bearings and seal first, then see what else is needed. Hope this helps - Dick B

 

[007kubotaguy]

As rbargeron said the shaft is probably ok.. Most likely the bearing have failed. I would open the drive up and inspect everything. Check the housing close. If you need parts I have plenty.

 

[TwitchyMcJoe]

An update: I have replacement bearings and a new oil seal. I will be tearing down the assembly this week, but I think I found the original cause of my issues.

I am missing two lug nuts on the front wheel that I never noticed, and I'm guessing that the uneven wheel is what helped the bearings get misaligned and fail. Whoops.

So, sometime this week we'll know how bad the damage is. I am praying the gears are fine.

 

[DustyRusty]

If the wheel were loose I can agree that is what caused the bearing failure, but it would have to have been wobbling quite a bit and that would have taken out the wheel stud holes also. Most likely is age and use that caused the bearing failure. Look for broken pieces of the bearing cage inside of the case. I would flush the inside of the case with diesel fuel to clean it of all debris of the failed bearings. If the bearings are loose in the bore, Locktite makes a product that will secure the bearing to the case. If you ever need to take the bearing out in the future after using the Locktite product, you need to warm the area of the case with an acetylene torch to break the bond.

 

[TwitchyMcJoe]

As rbargeron said the shaft is probably ok.. Most likely the bearing have failed. I would open the drive up and inspect everything. Check the housing close. If you need parts I have plenty.

Looks like I'll need at least a new casing. Wow. I'll dm you as I take this down

 

[TwitchyMcJoe]

Sorry for double posting, but I've made some progress and I have an idea of what happened and how to fix it. I need some opinions about the bevel gears.

The casing damage is limited, so I think I can heat, weld, and grind it flat, will this distort or damage the casing more?

The bearing at the top failed first (which is of course the bearing I didn't order). The bearing below the first bevel gear failed next. Somehow this thing ran with ball bearings between the gears.

So my question is do I need to replace the bevel gears? The main driveshaft bevel gear has one chip in it. I see something similar on the smaller shaft gear. There are dimples in them from the ball bearings.

I think I can tack weld over the damaged portions and file them down flush with the other bits.

So, can I get away with welding the casing, and can I get away with these bevel gears?

Also, I noticed that the steering arm appears to have snapped at some point, and then been welded back together. I'm wondering if a misalignment here could have caused excessive bearing wear. I have marked the steering arm and where the weld is. It may be the only part I actually need to order.

 

[007kubotaguy]

I would say the bevel gears need to be replaced. I have rebuilt drives ready to bolt on or parts. You need to tear completely down and be sure you don't have anything else broken.

 

[hagrid]

I would say the bevel gears need to be replaced. I have rebuilt drives ready to bolt on or parts. You need to tear completely down and be sure you don't have anything else broken.

This.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Just replace everything!

Welding a casting like that requires a HIGH level of welding skill.

 

[TwitchyMcJoe]

Dm sent to 007kubotaguy. I'll be tearing down the rest of the assembly and getting an idea of any other damage.

 

[TwitchyMcJoe]

Since I already have it jacked up, can anyone tell if the other side looks like I need to replace the bearings and oil seal?

 

[hagrid]

I'd leave that side alone if the mechanism feels good whilst turning the wheel.

 

[rbargeron]

Other side looks ok - its probably fine.

The bad side is really pretty bad. Its been running damaged for too long ever to be reliable again. First, welding cast iron is very tricky, usually making its micro-structure even more cracked. It may look ok but it is less strong than unwelded iron. Even if the case looks ok after welding unless its remachined it will not be accurate.

If weld material is added to those damaged gears it will be a difficult job that will take a long time and many trial fits to get acceptable mesh - not worth the frustration. Running them as they are may end up wrecking any replacement housing you install.

If the rest of the tractor is in decent condition its worth finding good undamaged parts for it. My 2 cents

 

[007kubotaguy]

Is it leaking ? When you jack it up do the two housings separate at all? If not I would change the gear oil in that housing as well. These drives do not have a level plug. Fill them up half full. The center section is separate from the outer drives. It should be half full or halfway up on the axle when looking through the fill hole. I'll be shipping your rebuilt drive out on monday.

 

[whitetiger]

Since I already have it jacked up, can anyone tell if the other side looks like I need to replace the bearings and oil seal?

Where did all of the oil on it come from? Is the inside of the rim coated with oily dirt?

 

[TwitchyMcJoe]

Where did all of the oil on it come from? Is the inside of the rim coated with oily dirt?

Good question. I'll take the rim off on that side and see, but I'm curious if the rims were swapped sides before I bought it. On that side, the hydraulic lines for the FEL have recently been replaced, and had burst in the past (according to one of the previous owners).

 

[whitetiger]

Good question. I'll take the rim off on that side and see, but I'm curious if the rims were swapped sides before I bought it. On that side, the hydraulic lines for the FEL have recently been replaced, and had burst in the past (according to one of the previous owners).

Yet there appears to be fresh oil on the case.

 

[TwitchyMcJoe]

Is it leaking ? When you jack it up do the two housings separate at all? If not I would change the gear oil in that housing as well. These drives do not have a level plug. Fill them up half full. The center section is separate from the outer drives. It should be half full or halfway up on the axle when looking through the fill hole. I'll be shipping your rebuilt drive out on monday.

Parts are here! I've got to get a gear puller, but it should bolt right on!