Why not just use 10W30 diesel spec oil year round as recommended by Kubota?My M4500 doesn't get that many hours of use in a year, maybe 100-125. I've always done the change it once a year right before making first cutting hay in the spring thing.
Last year the factory sending unit for the oil pressure idiot light went bad and I was in a hurry to get things going so I just put on an oil pressure gauge I had laying on the shelf. Works fine and I can see the actual oil pressure.
Fast forward to winter.
Of course at 100 hours it's not due for a oil change on the 15-40 that I put in this spring but...
On that old oil the pressure REALLY spikes when cold, 20's or below. I mean as in 100 psi type of stuff anything much above 1/3 throttle until really, really warmed up.
You couldn't tell that with the idiot light because you just had to assume everything was good when the light went off at start up. So I've decided for a few extra bucks it gets a winter change with 5-40 diesel from now on.
This morning at 0 +/- it was 75 max after just a few minutes of warm up. I like that a lot better!!!
Does it hurt it to run that 100 hour oil through the winter and see those high pressures on a cool motor? Probably not, I mean this tractor is 40 years old and the motor has never been apart, but.....
Any grade of oil, even 0W16, will be way higher viscosity than needed at starting.You need to consider the oil's viscosity. 5W-40 will give better starting at cold temperatures but might be too thin at 100 degrees starting.
I agree that the by-pass valve is “delta”…. but if that congealed oil cannot pass thru the media without developing 8-psi-delta…. then the bypass will Open….and remain Open….until the oil warms up sufficiently to dissolve that congealed oil.Oil bypass is on delta pressure, not total pressure. If the oil is 100psi on both sides of the valve it's not going to open. It likely opens for a split second at start until the oil pressure equalizes on both sides, which will be very quick because it's already mostly full, it's just equalizing.
5w-40 oil is the same as 10/15w-40 when hot. It literally makes no difference if you have a winter and summer oil if both are a 40 weight. The 5/10/15w part is the thickness when cold, and 5w in summer at 100° isn't any worse than 15w because they will very quickly act like a 40 weight. 5w in winter, as noticed, will definitely be better than 10w/15w in frigid temps.
For some reason, 10w30 has been hard to find around me so I started using 5w40.Why not just use 10W30 diesel spec oil year round as recommended by Kubota?
But pressure is generated when flow meets resistance, and pressure is indicative of flow. I like real oil pressure gauges and some of my vehicles have them. My '98 Jeep TJ for instance has a real oil pressure gauge and I can see the pressure vary as the rpm changes, which changes the flow rate of the engine oil.Cooling and lubrication is dependent on flow and not pressure.
Its not quite that simple.But pressure is generated when flow meets resistance, and pressure is indicative of flow. I like real oil pressure gauges and some of my vehicles have them. My '98 Jeep TJ for instance has a real oil pressure gauge and I can see the pressure vary as the rpm changes, which changes the flow rate of the engine oil.
That's like asking why the air in a compressor tank remains at some pressure even though the compressor isn't running. I simply stated that when flow of a fluid meets resistance, pressure is generated. Nothing more, nothing less. When work is done on a fluid, and the energy not transferred, then it has to be conserved, just like the air in a compressor or the hydraulic fluid in a closed system. The point is that the system is closed and able to conserve energy.Its not quite that simple.
Fill your loader bucket with gravel and raise it to full height and leave it there. Whats the pressure in the base end of the cylinders and how much flow is going through them?
I know what you said and it confuses some people. They read more into it. I gave you the second scenario to differentiate it from your compressor analogy. I can provide a more interesting scenario if you like.That's like asking why the air in a compressor tank remains at some pressure even though the compressor isn't running. I simply stated that when flow of a fluid meets resistance, pressure is generated. Nothing more, nothing less.
UMMMM it's 2024.In 2021 Texas had a huge cold snap and the Electrcal grid was shut down due to near collapse. There was significant water damage to many homes
In 2022 Texas again had a cold snap and the Austin area had severe electrical outages due to negligence of trimming trees that were collapsing and causing power lines to fail. Some water lines freezing again.
Now in 2023 we are having a minor cold snap but everyone is still pretty gun shy about any cold weather situation and the grid control system (ERCOT) seems to like to issue alerts to keep everyone on edge.
Pressure is defined as a force divided by an area. If pressure changes, then force or area or both have to change.Just pointing out changes in pressure do not necessarily require a flow. Nothing more, nothing less.
This thread is about engine oil pressure and the related pressure gauge. It has nothing to do with the pressure inside hydraulic cylinders. Remind me again how an oil pressure gauge in an engine application is going to show any pressure once the engine is off? It's only going to show pressure when the engine is running and there's fluid flow.I know what you said and it confuses some people. They read more into it. I gave you the second scenario to differentiate it from your compressor analogy. I can provide a more interesting scenario if you like.
Just pointing out changes in pressure do not necessarily require a flow. Nothing more, nothing less.
Dan
My comments are a bit more general. Depending on a number of things the engine pressure gauge could/will show pressure when the engine is running even if there is no flow. I am sure you know what I am getting at..This thread is about engine oil pressure and the related pressure gauge. It has nothing to do with the pressure inside hydraulic cylinders. Remind me again how an oil pressure gauge in an engine application is going to show any pressure once the engine is off? It's only going to show pressure when the engine is running and there's fluid flow.
Now allow me to use a cylinder example to illustrate my point a bit further.Pressure is defined as a force divided by an area. If pressure changes, then force or area or both have to change.
I believe that occurs to some electrically-powered gauges...
4) forklift's oil pressure gauge reads 30 PSI (running pressure) when key turned off. Turn key back on, gauge 'resets' to zero. This happened EVERY time over 14 years of owning the forklift.One mystery I never solved.
Mountains out of mole-hills and an illogical comparison between bearing types. I don’t care to spend any more time arguing that silliness."GeoHorn: How So?"
Overly high oil pressure can erode a rod or main bearing, from the lube hole area, where the oil enters the bearing, similar to the same way high water erodes away a stream bank. This doesn't apply to needle or ball type bearings.
The Silliness is on you. I'm not comparing bearing types.I believe that occurs to some electrically-powered gauges.
Mountains out of mole-hills and an illogical comparison between bearing types. I don’t care to spend any more time arguing that silliness.