3-point hitch trailer receiver

DustyRusty

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Just wanted to show you what I am using. I can't take credit for the design, welding, or any other part of it, other than buying a truck trailer hitch at a swap meet. It was late in the day and I had been looking for a trailer hitch to modify and everyone that I looked at the sellers thought that they were gold. This particular one was new, and while I was looking at it, the seller asked me if I wanted to make an offer on it. I told him that I was certain that what I would offer would be more of an insult than a fair offer. He told me to make the offer, so I jokingly offered him $5, and to my surprise, he said, "You just bought yourself a trailer hitch! I am tired of dragging that from one swap meet to another and no one even wants to make me an offer." I did have to buy the 2 pins for the sides, and I think that they were $7.50 each plus tax, so all in I figure about $20 including buying my friend a beer. Would have bought him a case, but he is trying to cut down on his beer drinking at home.
The 3-point hitch adjustable bars I made about 18 years ago when someone on TBN showed that they were available from Kubota on one of the larger tractors. They had to be modified by doing some cutting and grinding to make them fit. I am extremely happy with them.


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MapleLeafFarmer

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nice buy and smoking deal! I use my a lot as I have a winch that I connect a log hauler to giving me sorta similiar setup.

Just a quick note remember even with good tongue weight trailers on 3pt can "bounce" the tongue up causing significant damage.

I use similar with never a problem but just in case I chain the max lift short by chaining my frame to a shackle on the draw bar.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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A check chain from the drawbar to hitch set just short of max lift will keep it from damaging the three point case.
 

DustyRusty

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Telescoping 3pt sway bar links. I just did a quick search on the dark side and found my original post. It is difficult to believe that the post was made right after I finished making them in December 2003. That's right, it was 20 years ago, and now they are commercially available.


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mcmxi

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That's an interesting Frankenstein of a receiver but it looks like it should work. (y) I'm a fan of repurposing stuff and putting it to good use.

When it comes to installing a chain, you want to get it as vertical as possible when the receiver is in the required position to tow. This is to avoid the connection between the chain and receiver simple defining an arc as the 3-point raises. Not sure if that makes sense to you or not. Connecting a chain to the end of the drawbar can be a solution since that will move the connection point under the receiver more.
 
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DustyRusty

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That's an interesting Frankenstein of a receiver but it looks like it should work. (y) I'm a fan of repurposing stuff and putting it to good use.

When it comes to installing a chain, you want to get it as vertical as possible when the receiver is in the required position to tow so as to avoid the connection between the chain and receiver simple defining an arc as the 3-point raises. Not sure if that makes sense to you or not.
In NIW drawing it appears that it is horizontal, not verticle. I can understand how a verticle chain can limit the movement of the way that he has drawn on my hitch. If it is supposed to be verticle, could you please draw it the way that you would recommend? I want to get this correct so I don't do any harm to my tractor. Every trailer I have is light duty so there are no travel trailers involved.
 

Dustball

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In NIW drawing it appears that it is horizontal, not verticle. I can understand how a verticle chain can limit the movement of the way that he has drawn on my hitch. If it is supposed to be verticle, could you please draw it the way that you would recommend? I want to get this correct so I don't do any harm to my tractor. Every trailer I have is light duty so there are no travel trailers involved.
I'd take advantage of your existing hole and pin and do the chain this way. Set your chain length so it'll tighten at a few inches above your normal trailer tongue transport height. When you lower the 3-point hitch, the chain will go slack.
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mcmxi

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I'd take advantage of your existing hole and pin and do the chain this way. Set your chain length so it'll tighten at a few inches above your normal trailer tongue transport height. When you lower the 3-point hitch, the chain will go slack.
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Getting the two connection points of the chain as close to the same vertical plane as possible will certainly help and this suggestion is a good one. I was making a custom receiver at one point but scrapped the idea when I found a King Kutter receiver for $50. You can see that I made up a piece that slides over the drawbar that provides a mounting point for a shackle to secure a chain.

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