What to make out of the corrosion showing at around valve stem?

rc51stierhoff

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Good day….i am not sure the history of the machine (I don’t believe they are currently loaded) but i am looking for some advice on some visible corrosion around valve stem (bth L and R side look similar)…suppose that is from water collecting on the outside in the little sink / notched area of the rim and just some scale on surface? Or suppose something a bit worse coming through from the inside? Thoughts? Thanks in advance for suggestions. ☕
 

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85Hokie

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I will betcha that if you take a sample of the liquid from those tires and give it a little taste test it will be NaCl - good old Sodium Chloride - salt water.

Salt was use extensively in the era of old tractors, and for that matter it still is.

Cheap - heavy and easy to place and replace and does not freeze!

But given enough time it will rust a metal rim out completely - it typically starts at the valve stem.

Most that have NaCl have tubes in the tires.

Very nice looking N series tractor btw. I had a 53 jubilee that had NaCl in the rims, it too showed the ill effects of time.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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Classic corrosion due to 'loaded' tires(salt water). it only gets worse, never better over time. I lost 6 rims due to it.
Whoever 'restored' the 8N didn't do it properly( check valve stem on front rim....),Also paint's flaking off the rear.
Honestly what NEEDS to done is

Remove both rear tire/rims
Remove tires and tubes from rims
Sandblast rims INSIDE and out,rinse really,really well
Epoxy primer INSIDE of rims
Paint INSIDE of rims
Buy new tubes (save old IF newish, maybe.
Wash INSIDE of tires (several times until it passes the 'lick test'

I've had lot worse rims,PITA to cut and patch and weld..makes for a very long day.
Yours aren't nearly as bad, might need patch around the valve hole,maybe.

if you do it right, your grankids will be happy you did when they use it 3 decades from now.
 
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RCW

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I think the guys have good predictions. Common spot for the corrosion to show.

My old ‘Moline wheels look similar, and I know they are loaded with calcium or sodium chloride.
 
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rc51stierhoff

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Thanks. Ya’ll sort of confirming my concerns.

Here’s a little more to the story (it’s a bit of an odd situation). We bought the property (finally signed papers yesterday…been a slow process this summer and fall) across the road from our 2nd place up north. Anyway the seller would like the machine to stay there and asked me what I would give for it (we have a good relationship and it has been a very agreeable private transfer) and I don’t want to be disrespectful in any way. In my mind I need a 3rd tractor right now like I needed the additional mortgage I just took on…but I do believe it’s a good idea to have a pair and a spare😉. (The extra mortgage makes money a bit tighter). The machine runs and it comes with a fairly decent land pride brush hog…I don’t really want to pay much and I guess I am a little nervous about offering much when to me it looks like may need a little $TLC…but I also think worse case it’s some nice yard art that can be decorated at Christmas. Although I’d more likely keep using with the brush hog and maybe pulling a wagon…I think it has lots of use/life left in it. I am sort of worried if I offer 1500 (reasonable?) do I end up getting involved with something I am going to need to cough up a couple thousand more? What’s a fair price? I see prices all over the place…my thoughts are offer at low end understanding it needs some TLC or worst case new rims.
 

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85Hokie

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If you have never used a N series - you will find it a very useful machine.

That machine despite being 75 years old looks to be in fantastic shape compared to others of that era. Those rear tires look almost brand new and the sheet metal looks almost perfect.

As for the rims - you will not need to replace those, those will last a good bit longer in that condition, believe me when I say I have seen rims that you could almost see through and still hold air/water! :ROFLMAO: ;)

AS for other parts to that tractor, they are easily had and not overly expensive. If you are looking for a trailer queen then maybe spending money on it would be necessary, but other than the little inexpensive things that tractor will outlast you !!! They were built in a day that were made with real bones and real teeth.

As for the money - in my opinion, $1500 is underpriced! It is worth more than that. The market for these is has somewhat faded a bit over the last 20 years but there are still many of these going for 3k and up depending on the condition, and that one seems to be in very good condition.

I would ask your "friend" what he'll will take it - allow HIM to dictate the direction, if he wants it to stay with the property ( he does not want to transport to his new place) then you have the upper hand.

I find it somewhat hard to "offer" s price on some things that I truly want form others without embarrassing them or myself - once the owner gives up and says .... I'll take "x" for it, then you know where their price range is heading.

Shoot = if you get it for under 2k - you can always sell it and get more back than you paid for it. Then again you may find that old steel is very unique and fun to use. I miss my ol 53 Jubilee - but it could not do what my Kubota can, so it too was sold.
 
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SDT

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Good day….i am not sure the history of the machine (I don’t believe they are currently loaded) but i am looking for some advice on some visible corrosion around valve stem (bth L and R side look similar)…suppose that is from water collecting on the outside in the little sink / notched area of the rim and just some scale on surface? Or suppose something a bit worse coming through from the inside? Thoughts? Thanks in advance for suggestions. ☕
CaCl solution was just about universal in rear tractor tires until the advent of beet juice for ballast.

It's heavier than water or water/alcohol, does not freeze and cheap.

It is, however, very corrosive and will cause rim rust, very quickly if any leakage.

If yours has or has had CaCl solution (almost all do or did), it is very likely that there is contamination inside the tires as it is time consuming to properly clean such from rims and tires and few if any tire shops did so.
 
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SDT

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Thanks. Ya’ll sort of confirming my concerns.

Here’s a little more to the story (it’s a bit of an odd situation). We bought the property (finally signed papers yesterday…been a slow process this summer and fall) across the road from our 2nd place up north. Anyway the seller would like the machine to stay there and asked me what I would give for it (we have a good relationship and it has been a very agreeable private transfer) and I don’t want to be disrespectful in any way. In my mind I need a 3rd tractor right now like I needed the additional mortgage I just took on…but I do believe it’s a good idea to have a pair and a spare😉. (The extra mortgage makes money a bit tighter). The machine runs and it comes with a fairly decent land pride brush hog…I don’t really want to pay much and I guess I am a little nervous about offering much when to me it looks like may need a little $TLC…but I also think worse case it’s some nice yard art that can be decorated at Christmas. Although I’d more likely keep using with the brush hog and maybe pulling a wagon…I think it has lots of use/life left in it. I am sort of worried if I offer 1500 (reasonable?) do I end up getting involved with something I am going to need to cough up a couple thousand more? What’s a fair price? I see prices all over the place…my thoughts are offer at low end understanding it needs some TLC or worst case new rims.
Aside from the wrong color of grey paint, that's a nice looking 8N. Looks to be a 51 but could be a 52 (last year). Cannot be definitive from single picture.

Functional 8N tractors can be bought for $1,500 - $2,500 anyday in my area. If I owned the one in the photo, I'm confident that I could sell it for $2,500.

Currently, I have two buyers lined up to buy my 52 for $5,000, but it's a special case. Will sell soon in preparation for relocation.
 
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rc51stierhoff

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If you have never used a N series - you will find it a very useful machine.

That machine despite being 75 years old looks to be in fantastic shape compared to others of that era. Those rear tires look almost brand new and the sheet metal looks almost perfect.

As for the rims - you will not need to replace those, those will last a good bit longer in that condition, believe me when I say I have seen rims that you could almost see through and still hold air/water! :ROFLMAO: ;)

AS for other parts to that tractor, they are easily had and not overly expensive. If you are looking for a trailer queen then maybe spending money on it would be necessary, but other than the little inexpensive things that tractor will outlast you !!! They were built in a day that were made with real bones and real teeth.

As for the money - in my opinion, $1500 is underpriced! It is worth more than that. The market for these is has somewhat faded a bit over the last 20 years but there are still many of these going for 3k and up depending on the condition, and that one seems to be in very good condition.

I would ask your "friend" what he'll will take it - allow HIM to dictate the direction, if he wants it to stay with the property ( he does not want to transport to his new place) then you have the upper hand.

I find it somewhat hard to "offer" s price on some things that I truly want form others without embarrassing them or myself - once the owner gives up and says .... I'll take "x" for it, then you know where their price range is heading.

Shoot = if you get it for under 2k - you can always sell it and get more back than you paid for it. Then again you may find that old steel is very unique and fun to use. I miss my ol 53 Jubilee - but it could not do what my Kubota can, so it too was sold.
That’s sort of my feeling as well. I got the 1500 from my orange dealer (that’s what they would pay on a trade for it based off the pics and they would price for 10-20% over that price with intention of a quick turnover…so to me that 1500 is low end (can’t go wrong price)…I’d keep it to use it though. I’ve driven them them in the past as a kid at relatives house, but it was with supervision…I’ve never really worked one much beyond a pulling a log or wagon….but I’ve always thought they were sort of the predecessor to small property compact tractor (do all chore type of a machine…way better than a horse). Fry what I have witnessed, they pull really well for now bigger than they are and not much to go wrong with them. It’s sort of what I think a homestead tractor should look like. I am sort of hoping when it comes up in conversation and will say what would like to have…if I could get the machine and brush cutter for 2k I’d be pretty happy.
 

rc51stierhoff

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Aside from the wrong color of grey paint, that's a nice looking 8N. Looks to be a 51 but could be a 52 (last year). Cannot be definitive from single picture.

Functional 8N tractors can be bought for $1,500 - $2,500 anyday in my area. If I owned the one in the photo, I'm confident that I could sell it for $2,500.

Currently, I have two buyers lined up to by my 52 for $5,000, but it's a special case. Will sell soon in preparation for relocation.
It’s a ‘52 8N…your situation sort of opposite of mine…I am looking to relocate to the machine actually.
 

fried1765

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Thanks. Ya’ll sort of confirming my concerns.

Here’s a little more to the story (it’s a bit of an odd situation). We bought the property (finally signed papers yesterday…been a slow process this summer and fall) across the road from our 2nd place up north. Anyway the seller would like the machine to stay there and asked me what I would give for it (we have a good relationship and it has been a very agreeable private transfer) and I don’t want to be disrespectful in any way. In my mind I need a 3rd tractor right now like I needed the additional mortgage I just took on…but I do believe it’s a good idea to have a pair and a spare😉. (The extra mortgage makes money a bit tighter). The machine runs and it comes with a fairly decent land pride brush hog…I don’t really want to pay much and I guess I am a little nervous about offering much when to me it looks like may need a little $TLC…but I also think worse case it’s some nice yard art that can be decorated at Christmas. Although I’d more likely keep using with the brush hog and maybe pulling a wagon…I think it has lots of use/life left in it. I am sort of worried if I offer 1500 (reasonable?) do I end up getting involved with something I am going to need to cough up a couple thousand more? What’s a fair price? I see prices all over the place…my thoughts are offer at low end understanding it needs some TLC or worst case new rims.
I have owned my 1951 8N for 51 years.
It was the only tractor I had for nearly 40 years.
They are amazingly reliable, and simple machines.
Mine is in excellent condition (rebuilt engine), and has new tires and new rear rims (It had NACL).

I had mine out on the lawn (with rear blade) for a month this past Summer, for sale.
It didn't sell, so back in the barn it went.
Will try again next Summer.
If next Summer, I can't get $3,000, it will go back in the barn again.

EDIT: I should mention that my 1951 8N has the optional Sherman step up/step down transmission.
Definitely more value than the straight OEM transmission.

It is a sweet old machine, but I really have no need for it, with two more modern machines.
I am emotionally attached, so will not just "give it away".

Where you live (Ohio), and not knowing the mechanical condition, I would suggest that you might offer $1,800.
In the Northeast, where I am, it would certainly bring more.
 
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rc51stierhoff

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I have owned my 1951 8N for 51 years.
It was the only tractor I had for nearly 40 years.
They are amazingly reliable, and simple machines.
Mine is in excellent condition (rebuilt engine), and has new tires and new rear rims (It had NACL).

I had mine out on the lawn (with rear blade) for a month this past Summer, for sale.
It didn't sell, so back in the barn it went.
Will try again next Summer.
If next Summer, I can't get $3,000, it will go back in the barn again.

It is a sweet old machine, but I really have no need for it, with two more modern machines.
I am emotionally attached, so will not just "give it away".

Where you live (Ohio), and not knowing the mechanical condition, I would suggest that you might offer $1,800.
In the Northeast, where I am, it would very likely bring somewhat more.
Yep, OHIO. Is that 1800 machine by itself or include the working (decent shape) land pride brush cutter. (Both are kept outside).
 

fried1765

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Yep, OHIO. Is that 1800 machine by itself or include the working (decent shape) land pride brush cutter. (Both are kept outside).
$1,800 for the (late model) 8N only.
Certainly could go to $2,200+, but that would be my initial offer.
Maybe a little less than 1/2 the new price, for the Landpride cutter.
 
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D2Cat

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That wheel has a lot of live left in it. It may not be perfect but it takes a long time to rust through and need replacement steel welded in. Here's a picture of a wheel on a '66 Case 730 that I know has not had CaCl in the tires for 25 years. Notice the rust at the valve stem hole and it migrated through the wheel but it still worked fine. I rebuilt the wheel because I wanted to, not because I had to.

This tractor has power adjust wheels (clamps on the square bars that allow the wheel to be rotated in and out) that made the replacements hard to find and expensive when I did.
 

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RCW

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Like the others said, there’s lots of life left in those wheels. I’m honestly not that worried about the Moline.

N’s are very common in upstate New York. While there are exceptions, I’m thinking normal prices range $1-2.5k.

Like SDT said, I think $1,500 is a good price, with a little upside leeway.
 
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Henro

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I like the thought of asking the property seller what he would take for it, after explaining you already have two tractors but a spare could be desirable too. Maybe throw in the new mortgage is cutting spare cash a bit thin, and see his response.

Just being honest and friendly, and apologetic as well if what he wants is beyond what you want to pay, can keep good feelings between parties...Just my take on the situation...
 
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fried1765

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That wheel has a lot of live left in it. It may not be perfect but it takes a long time to rust through and need replacement steel welded in. Here's a picture of a wheel on a '66 Case 730 that I know has not had CaCl in the tires for 25 years. Notice the rust at the valve stem hole and it migrated through the wheel but it still worked fine. I rebuilt the wheel because I wanted to, not because I had to.

This tractor has power adjust wheels (clamps on the square bars that allow the wheel to be rotated in and out) that made the replacements hard to find and expensive when I did.
Tractor tires are low pressure.
If rims are badly corroded, I would consider sandblasting to bare metal, and then lining inside of rim with resin soaked mat fibreglass.
Then use a tube for sure.

I had planned to do this for my 8N, but decided on new rims instead.
Gave my old rims to a friend in Canada ..... for him to fix/use.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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offer '$1500 as money's tight, heck I just bought this place ! and already have 2 other tractors'.
when he counters with say $2500 (??), split the diff and $2K it could be yours.
You can then either keep it and use it or next spring resell for perhaps more than 2K.

I restored an 8N (provberial money pit...) and only lost $1400 when I sold it. Also had a 2N( weird brakes...)
 
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airbiscuit

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I always thought those 8n four speed transmissions should be labeled

1 - Too Fast
2 - Way Too Fast
3 - What the He!!
4 - WTF!
 
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SDT

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I always thought those 8n four speed transmissions should be labeled

1 - Too Fast
2 - Way Too Fast
3 - What the He!!
4 - WTF!
Reverse is the worst.

Forward gears OK but reverse much too fast.