What to make out of the corrosion showing at around valve stem?

[SDT]

I have owned my 1951 8N for 51 years.
It was the only tractor I had for nearly 40 years.
They are amazingly reliable, and simple machines.
Mine is in excellent condition (rebuilt engine), and has new tires and new rear rims (It had NACL).

I had mine out on the lawn (with rear blade) for a month this past Summer, for sale.
It didn't sell, so back in the barn it went.
Will try again next Summer.
If next Summer, I can't get $3,000, it will go back in the barn again.

EDIT: I should mention that my 1951 8N has the optional Sherman step up/step down transmission.
Definitely more value than the straight OEM transmission.

It is a sweet old machine, but I really have no need for it, with two more modern machines.
I am emotionally attached, so will not just "give it away".

Where you live (Ohio), and not knowing the mechanical condition, I would suggest that you might offer $1,800.
In the Northeast, where I am, it would certainly bring more.

My 52 with just over 1,100 original hours also has a Sherman combination transmission as did my 51 that I sold 3 or 4 years ago.

The combination transmission is quite helpful for most tasks, and mine is in UD nearly all of the time aside from road travel.

 

[SDT]

I have owned my 1951 8N for 51 years.
It was the only tractor I had for nearly 40 years.
They are amazingly reliable, and simple machines.
Mine is in excellent condition (rebuilt engine), and has new tires and new rear rims (It had NACL).

I had mine out on the lawn (with rear blade) for a month this past Summer, for sale.
It didn't sell, so back in the barn it went.
Will try again next Summer.
If next Summer, I can't get $3,000, it will go back in the barn again.

EDIT: I should mention that my 1951 8N has the optional Sherman step up/step down transmission.
Definitely more value than the straight OEM transmission.

It is a sweet old machine, but I really have no need for it, with two more modern machines.
I am emotionally attached, so will not just "give it away".

Where you live (Ohio), and not knowing the mechanical condition, I would suggest that you might offer $1,800.
In the Northeast, where I am, it would certainly bring more.

Tough to get $3,000 for an 8N these days as one can buy 6/8** series Ford tractors with live hydraulics, more HP and maybe live PTO and/or PS for that.

 

[SDT]

It’s a ‘52 8N…your situation sort of opposite of mine…I am looking to relocate to the machine actually.

Are you sure?

Most 8Ns advertised as 52s are 50s or 51s.

There are visual differences between 51s and 52s but such are not visible in the photo.

 

[fried1765]

Reverse is the worst.

Forward gears OK but reverse much too fast.

Sherman transmission makes a difference!

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Are you sure?

Most 8Ns advertised as 52s are 50s or 51s.

There are visual differences between 51s and 52s but such are not visible in the photo.

I myself am not sure, its just what the owner told me.

 

[Henro]

I think at the end of the day it comes down to what is it worth to you? Not what other's think it is worth.
They could be correct, but you are not actively looking for a third tractor. At best you are thinking about accommodating the wishes of the guy that sold you the property.

So you are not buying with the intention of turning a profit, since doing so is a bit of a hassle anyway.

Ask what he wants, make your decision and move on...would be my approach anyway. If it is worth more than you could buy it for, so what? Do you want to spend you time selling it later? Maybe so, maybe not.

But it doesn't sound like you want to buy and turn a profit over time...could be wrong here...we all seem to see things from our own perspective...more like you want a fair deal and to be a good guy at the same time...

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks. Ya’ll sort of confirming my concerns.

Here’s a little more to the story (it’s a bit of an odd situation). We bought the property (finally signed papers yesterday…been a slow process this summer and fall) across the road from our 2nd place up north. Anyway the seller would like the machine to stay there and asked me what I would give for it (we have a good relationship and it has been a very agreeable private transfer) and I don’t want to be disrespectful in any way. In my mind I need a 3rd tractor right now like I needed the additional mortgage I just took on…but I do believe it’s a good idea to have a pair and a spare. (The extra mortgage makes money a bit tighter). The machine runs and it comes with a fairly decent land pride brush hog…I don’t really want to pay much and I guess I am a little nervous about offering much when to me it looks like may need a little $TLC…but I also think worse case it’s some nice yard art that can be decorated at Christmas. Although I’d more likely keep using with the brush hog and maybe pulling a wagon…I think it has lots of use/life left in it. I am sort of worried if I offer 1500 (reasonable?) do I end up getting involved with something I am going to need to cough up a couple thousand more? What’s a fair price? I see prices all over the place…my thoughts are offer at low end understanding it needs some TLC or worst case new rims.

I own a 9N and 8N. The "dead" hydraulics, 6V electricals, and overly high gearing on the 8N are a PITA. If it starts and runs good $1500 is about right. Its a 70 year old tractor and will require regular attention = time and $$$$. Unless your Grandpa had one (mine did) and nostalgia is tugging at your heart (like me) pass.

Dan

 

[fried1765]

I own a 9N and 8N. The "dead" hydraulics, 6V electricals, and overly high gearing on the 8N are a PITA. If it starts and runs good $1500 is about right. Its a 70 year old tractor and will require regular attention = time and $$$$. Unless your Grandpa had one (mine did) and nostalgia is tugging at your heart (like me) pass.

Dan

"Overly high gearing" is really not such a big issue, if the tractor has a factory Sherman aux transmission.
Apparently many of the late models (1951-52) did have Sherman aux transmissions.
Mine does.
I have owned my 8N for fifty years, and it has not required much "attention".
Just a very basic/simple simple machine for simple tasks.

 

[KKBL]

Bought an 8N with Bush Hog brand rotary cutter, Woods brand back blade, 2 bottom plow, and had a Sherman hi/low, from our neighbor 13 years ago for $2000. It was used mainly to maintain our shared 1/2 mile private gravel drive for well over 30 years. We sold just the bare tractor 2 years ago for $1800 after we bought a L2501. Not pretty, but easy and fairly cheap to maintain for the 11 years we owned it.
We have found that it really was better for grading the road than the Kubota HST is, because the governor keeps the working speed even when dragging loads - just drop the clutch and go the length of the driveway.
If I find another one (in very nice condition) for $1500 I would buy it on the spot.

 

[TheOldHokie]

"Overly high gearing" is really not such a big issue, if the tractor has a factory Sherman aux transmission.
Apparently many of the late models (1951-52) did have Sherman aux transmissions.
Mine does.
I have owned my 8N for fifty years, and it has not required much "attention".
Just a very basic/simple simple machine for simple tasks.

Sherman tranamissions were not factory options and the vast majority of 8Ns do not have aux transmissions. And of the ones that do the vast majority are step ups and not step downs.

Sherman auxiliary transmissions alter PTO speed as well as ground speed hence the popularity of Sherman step ups for belt applications.

Add to that the lack of live hydraulics and an 8N is severely handicapped. Over the last 20 years I have done a brisk business selling live hydraulic conversions for the N-series tractors. I am working on two right this moment. Guy is going to sink over $2000 adding puny 3 GPM live hydraulics to his 9N and 8N. The 2X cost of a bigger 6-8 GPM system is more than he is willing to invest in his 75+ year old antiques.

A later model Hundred series with OHV engine, live hydraulucs, better transmission gearing and optional PS is roughly the same cost as an 8N and hands down superior.

I love my old 8N because its what I grew up with and seeing it and smelling that mixture of drying grass and leaking gear oil gives me good memories. But its way too old and lacking in basic features to appeal to me as a working tractor. Too many far better and less troublesome machines for the same $$$$. Grandad knew it right off and bought an NAA two years after he bought the 8N. He jumped the gun on that too and should havd waited for the Hundred series. In retrospect I should have followed his lead - same nostalgic look and smell but way better tractor.....

Dan

 

[GeoHorn]

You do not need another tractor to maintain. N-Fords are cute and good for mowing and light plowing/grading but also without a lot of the safety features of modern tractors.…they have and will continue to kill people who aren’t experienced and alert owners. OIl changes, batteries, tires, anti-freeze, storage, etc… get old for a tractor of limited ability that you don’t need. IMO

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I think they are cool for a variety of reasons, but I think @Henro has it right as how to the approach the seller.

My buddy inherited one and it had not been started in ? years.

Well we went up to his cottage, and after a trip to Tractor Supply, I was amazed at how many parts they had for one.

Anyway,.....We walked out with an arm full of parts and about 4 hours later I had that thing running like a top.

Cool machine for sure.

I could definitely see myself getting one one day.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Contrary to what Geohorn said, NO tractor ,either the old ones without any features or the new ones fully loaded with the 'latest and greatest' safety features has ever killed anyone. It's the inept operators,the 'machoman' idiots, the 'I don't need to read no stinking book' guys that kill themselves. Everyone who cuts grass SIDEWAYS on a hill is playing 'Russian routlette', even though it's well KNOWN, you're not supposed to work a hill that way same as you're ALWAYS supposed to shut down the tractor, disengage the PTO before clearing the crap that's causing a problem.
Most of the older tractors have been safely used by millions of farmers for generations, working 100s of millions of acres with only a few blisters and sunburns.
I've had 30-35 tractors on and off for 3 decades, the ONLY one with ANY 'safety' features is the BX23S. It's quirky seat switch is a PITA sometimes and I've eliminated the too tall ROPS. The ROPS height is interesting as IF it was designed for the 'suburban garden tractor' group it SHOULD be able to drive into a garage without folding it down. Kinda wondering now how many ROPS are folded down while in use ?
As for maintaining something you don't need, I really didn't need 5 tractors and a combine on my 1/3rd acre but heck a guy has to have a hobby AND there's safety in having a 'backup' and a 'spare' tractor when #1 breaks down !!

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I appreciate all the thoughts. I see both sides of the coin. Time will tell if we can come to an agreement. So for now I don’t really know. (Timing seems to decide a lot of things for me) Really my concern was really in the wheels (I’ve never dealt with a rusting wheel and really don’t plan to fix em while I am still working a day job…just not a priority…but soon maybe I would have time). On the plus side from service and maintenance, it’s a simple machine and new parts (lots of em) readily available and honestly not that expensive. So that is a big plus to have something mechanical as a back up (spare). To me the down side / concern really is will it get used enough not to have trouble keeping things fresh and not gumming up the carb…I am sort of more worried about it not getting much use and the continued problems with that scenario…probably not good for it to sit. I do like the idea of a antique/historic machine (still running for light use/fun) and would be pretty cool to run it on 100yr anniversary coming up in 30yrs…I bet that tractor has a better chance of still running on the centennial birthday than i do. Time will tell if we can work out a deal or not. What I do know is that I will own an old truck or tractor before I own an EV .

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Toss a generous amount of 'stabilizer' into the gas tank ,run it enough to get into the carb and you're good to go even after sitting for 3 years. BTDT. Nice thing about the 8Ns is that every part IS available,unlike newer tractors where some parts are no longer on this planet ! Heck I still have a big box of 'leftovers' from my 8N project 10 years ago, one day it'll find a 'good farm' to go to.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I appreciate all the thoughts. I see both sides of the coin. Time will tell if we can come to an agreement. So for now I don’t really know. (Timing seems to decide a lot of things for me) Really my concern was really in the wheels (I’ve never dealt with a rusting wheel and really don’t plan to fix em while I am still working a day job…just not a priority…but soon maybe I would have time). On the plus side from service and maintenance, it’s a simple machine and new parts (lots of em) readily available and honestly not that expensive. So that is a big plus to have something mechanical as a back up (spare). To me the down side / concern really is will it get used enough not to have trouble keeping things fresh and not gumming up the carb…I am sort of more worried about it not getting much use and the continued problems with that scenario…probably not good for it to sit. I do like the idea of a antique/historic machine (still running for light use/fun) and would be pretty cool to run it on 100yr anniversary coming up in 30yrs…I bet that tractor has a better chance of still running on the centennial birthday than i do. Time will tell if we can work out a deal or not. What I do know is that I will own an old truck or tractor before I own an EV .

The rims are a very common problem and easily replaced. Figure about $200 each for new rims plus tire labor and probably another $25 per side for new bolt kits. If the area is wet the tube is leaking and will need to be replaced as well. About 5 years sgo I spent just just over $1K for a package deal from Tucker Tire. The package included two new rears with tubes mounted on new rims and delivered to my shop door. Wheel hardware was extra.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

Toss a generous amount of 'stabilizer' into the gas tank ,run it enough to get into the carb and you're good to go even after sitting for 3 years. BTDT. Nice thing about the 8Ns is that every part IS available,unlike newer tractors where some parts are no longer on this planet ! Heck I still have a big box of 'leftovers' from my 8N project 10 years ago, one day it'll find a 'good farm' to go to.

There are many parts that are not available outside of a salvage yard. The good news is they made a lot of them and lots are being paryed out to keep the others running.

Just about everything new is coming from overseas and quality control is very much a concern. Know your seller and dont go for the cheapest thing listed on eBay. Lots of it is junk.

Dan

 

[SDT]

Sherman transmission makes a difference!

It does make a difference but it also affects the PTO, so no help with tillers, etc.

 

[SDT]

Bought an 8N with Bush Hog brand rotary cutter, Woods brand back blade, 2 bottom plow, and had a Sherman hi/low, from our neighbor 13 years ago for $2000. It was used mainly to maintain our shared 1/2 mile private gravel drive for well over 30 years. We sold just the bare tractor 2 years ago for $1800 after we bought a L2501. Not pretty, but easy and fairly cheap to maintain for the 11 years we owned it.
We have found that it really was better for grading the road than the Kubota HST is, because the governor keeps the working speed even when dragging loads - just drop the clutch and go the length of the driveway.
If I find another one (in very nice condition) for $1500 I would buy it on the spot.

Tough to find a "good" 8N for $1,500.

I did sell my very good 51 with Sherman combination transmission about 3 years ago for $2,500, though.

 

[fried1765]

I appreciate all the thoughts. I see both sides of the coin. Time will tell if we can come to an agreement. So for now I don’t really know. (Timing seems to decide a lot of things for me) Really my concern was really in the wheels (I’ve never dealt with a rusting wheel and really don’t plan to fix em while I am still working a day job…just not a priority…but soon maybe I would have time). On the plus side from service and maintenance, it’s a simple machine and new parts (lots of em) readily available and honestly not that expensive. So that is a big plus to have something mechanical as a back up (spare). To me the down side / concern really is will it get used enough not to have trouble keeping things fresh and not gumming up the carb…I am sort of more worried about it not getting much use and the continued problems with that scenario…probably not good for it to sit. I do like the idea of a antique/historic machine (still running for light use/fun) and would be pretty cool to run it on 100yr anniversary coming up in 30yrs…I bet that tractor has a better chance of still running on the centennial birthday than i do. Time will tell if we can work out a deal or not. What I do know is that I will own an old truck or tractor before I own an EV .

My 1951 8N sat in my barn, not being started, from 2011 until 2022.
Fresh gas, filed the points, new condenser + new 6V battery, and it started!
It is a fine machine for driveway grading.