Better yet after tightening some hoses that leaked at 20 PSI and pulling a vaccume the issue is drastically better but not gone
John deere 7130 impossible issue please help.
- Thread starter Shadow_storm56
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Yeah, this is strange. During compression stroke but before ignition. Maybe the pressure of combustion somehow seats the gasket.
Sounds crazy since it's been doing it so long and it should still get contamination in the coolant but it still looks new plus dosen't trigger the chem test. Cylinders don't get perfectly cleaned of gas each stroke do they?
It's definitely something strange, I am hauling loads of rock up hill today with it. With the temporary secondary system pump that has a lower flow rate and dosen't cause a strong jet into the resivoir the air can get out without taking the coolant with it. Still evaporates eventually. Theres no other symptoms to this issue, it's just slowly bleeding coolant basically because theres air going through the coolant system.
My heat also dosen't work at idle for some weird reason but I think that's an unrelated issue.
Daren Todd
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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Which engine does your tractor have in it??? The 6068, or the 4045??? Also what year is it??
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Daren Todd
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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Here's the side view of a JD 4045 engine. I don't have a tier 3 6068 engine currently in the yard for comparison on where the boost line comes in.
But both blocks are similar in design.
Here's my guess. There is a hairline crack between the intercooler and a water jacket in the block.
It's opening up when the engine warms up and is allowing boost air into the coolant system. Since the boost side is pressurized, it's not allowing coolant to be consumed by the engine. Or the consumption is minimal.
The 3" hard line coming straight down is where the charged air enters the intake from the intercooler.
But both blocks are similar in design.
Here's my guess. There is a hairline crack between the intercooler and a water jacket in the block.
It's opening up when the engine warms up and is allowing boost air into the coolant system. Since the boost side is pressurized, it's not allowing coolant to be consumed by the engine. Or the consumption is minimal.
The 3" hard line coming straight down is where the charged air enters the intake from the intercooler.
Theres a couple pics, the giant square thing is the intercooler heat exchanger and if you think it looks messed up I have a temp pump on the secondary cooling system as I originally thought it was the pump behind the fan pulling air. I haven't switched it back yet because the lower flow rate keeps the splashing down in the resivoir and it dosen't lose as much coolant
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Poohbear
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L3301 HST, LA525, LP shredder, BB1566 box blade, QH10, Worksaver pallet fork
Daren Todd
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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Yes, 4045 is a 4 cylinder. But take same oil and fuel filters, same fuel pump, same temperature sensors, similar block designs with an additional 2 cylinders.
Tractor data had both engines listed. 6068 in the first generation, then switched to a super tuned 4045 in 2010.
The 4045 in the above picture is tuned to the same as the 4045 in your tractor model.
I also have the toned down 4045 that comes in at 60hp.
That's crazy lol... I think the 6068 is 180Hp engine tuned to 130 but I forget for sure. They do that alot I think, I have a 91HP kubota narrow and my friends friend has a 60HP full size that I'm pretty sure has the same engine tune down... it sure sounds and looks like it.
Daren Todd
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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
It actually starts out the other way with HP. A bare bones 4045 engine is 60hp.
Bare bones 6068 starts at 100hp.
They can really ramp the horsepower up when they switched from mechanically governed to electrically governed engines.
That's probably how they were able to make the switch from a 6068 to a 4045 engine in your tractor model in 2010.
It's quite possible, I do know normally at full hard load a diesel will start blowing a bit of black (good ones generally not too bad just can tell) modern ones It's like the engine controls say "ok don't add anymore fuel were at rated output" My old engines just roar hard and start putting out some smoke haha
The 7130 6 cylinder is rated at 100 PTO HP and in dyno test mine holds 115. So it pushes 130 engine HP.
Works great if it would keep coolant, I'll have to just add an extra coolant tank to let the air get out and move on lol
So lets say it's a weirdly placed crack, what area heats up within 1-2 mins to open a crack but cools in seconds to let it close back up so the system will hold pressure and vaccume. Not only that it only got slightly worse after 880 hours and tons of heat cycles.
Daren Todd
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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
I couldn't answer that. I was shooting from the hip and stated that it was a guess.
If you have the workshop manual and get a hold of a parts breakdown for your tractor. I would study the parts breakdown where the charged air enters the block.
There could very well be something related to the coolant system running in and around the charged air system to help maintain charged air temperature that could be your issue.
If that's the case, it could very well be something easy to fix.
There are times with a warped head, it will allow exhaust gas into the coolant system, but coolant won't pass through that same pathway.
I'm soon gunna build some sorta coolant trap to help air get out better without losing coolant and then close the hood and pretend it's fine
. Exhaust I would expect the chemical test to go off or there to be alot more flow into the cooling system at high load/rev. It does increase but not that much. Why can't things be simple? Just needs to start blowing somthing outta somewhere so I can see it, fix it and move on.
If it was just me running it I would just keep adding coolant weekly and forget about it but my staff...... and my dad would run it with low coolant until it started overheating and only stop once they saw steam or the engine started acting funny.
10k+ diag and repair or a jug of coolant every so often is a pretty easy choice. Although the chirping from the vent camp after I slow back to idle and can hear it again does make me slowly crazy but owell.
Its also possible for a crack in the cylinder head thats opening up at temperature allowing charged air to bleed into the cooling system. Just spitballing here.
Honestly it's like a valve that opens when the engine starts and closes immediately after. Since it holds pressure and vaccume. It's making me insane