Broken Feed Back Rod

[muziccity]

Hello to all..

I am brand new to the forum and have a question.

My 2005 BX1500D has approximately 510 hours and the feed back rod (010) that returns the hydraulics lever for the 3 point hitch to the neutral position has been broken for years. No rhyme or reason as to why, just broke clean sometime after the first few years. Since it broke I have been manually returning it as I use it, so I haven't really had any performance issues. As best as I can determine it serves no other purpose than to return the lever for you and stop the up/down pressure to the hitch. It would be nice, though, to have it functional and to perform as it was designed.

With that in mind, I did some investigation and even got a quote from the dealer. To replace the broken rod = $715, $105 is parts (highlighted below) and $615 labor plus $70 tax coming to a grand total of $785. Like I said it works fine as it is.

Seems you have to disassemble the tractor to get at the rod to remove it. Back when I worked on jets and heavy duty diesels we used to say they started with the engine (drive train) and then built the truck/plane around it. Still, I would like for it to work, so I thought I would see if anyone has experience in this area and maybe has a trick or alternate method of making this repair. At the very least some steps as to what would have to be removed at a minimum to facilitate replacement.

I can see the end where it attaches and can remove retaining clip/pin (020), identified by the red arrows below, but there is not enough clearance to slide rod left (inboard) out of the bracket. In the image below the retaining clip is on the inboard side of the bracket and it appears as though the rod could be easily removed, however in real life it is on the outboard side and, as I mentioned, not enough clearance to remove it.

Any feedback (pun intended) you may be able to provide is greatly appreciated.

 

[DustyRusty]

I have no experience removing and replacing that rod, however, I did have to repair the hydrostatic fan on my BX22. I won't say that it was difficult, however, it was time-consuming to get the rear fenders off of the tractor to work on it. You have to remove the ROPs and seat. and the taillamp wires. Make sure to clearly mark the wires for reassembly. Once the rear fender assembly is removed, you should have no problem replacing the rod. With your mechanical abilities, I can see you starting this job on a Saturday morning and having it completed by dinner time, and that is without breaking a sweat. Now, if your tractor had a cab installed, then it would be a royal pain to remove the fenders, and I could clearly see it being an all-day job just to get the cab off.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hello to all..

I am brand new to the forum and have a question.

My 2005 BX1500D has approximately 510 hours and the feed back rod (010) that returns the hydraulics lever for the 3 point hitch to the neutral position has been broken for years. No rhyme or reason as to why, just broke clean sometime after the first few years. Since it broke I have been manually returning it as I use it, so I haven't really had any performance issues. As best as I can determine it serves no other purpose than to return the lever for you and stop the up/down pressure to the hitch. It would be nice, though, to have it functional and to perform as it was designed.

With that in mind, I did some investigation and even got a quote from the dealer. To replace the broken rod = $715, $105 is parts (highlighted below) and $615 labor plus $70 tax coming to a grand total of $785. Like I said it works fine as it is.

Seems you have to disassemble the tractor to get at the rod to remove it. Back when I worked on jets and heavy duty diesels we used to say they started with the engine (drive train) and then built the truck/plane around it. Still, I would like for it to work, so I thought I would see if anyone has experience in this area and maybe has a trick or alternate method of making this repair. At the very least some steps as to what would have to be removed at a minimum to facilitate replacement.

I can see the end where it attaches and can remove retaining clip/pin (020), identified by the red arrows below, but there is not enough clearance to slide rod left (inboard) out of the bracket. In the image below the retaining clip is on the inboard side of the bracket and it appears as though the rod could be easily removed, however in real life it is on the outboard side and, as I mentioned, not enough clearance to remove it.

Any feedback (pun intended) you may be able to provide is greatly appreciated.

View attachment 115136

I have reached the stage in my life where I would rather write that $785 check than fight with a job like that.

Dan

 

[lynnmor]

You didn't say where the break is, perhaps a splice could be made to join the parts together.

 

[Motion]

If the rod is the only thing broken and the other parts are still attached, just purchase the rod. I'd suggest changing it yourself. Purchase a WSM which will show how to properly adjust it.

 

[mcfarmall]

It's all nuts and bolts. You can take them apart yourself, or pay someone else to do it. I care about doing a good job, so I do the work myself.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

can you remove nut #040, then wiggle or coax the rod out ?
That seems like the way to do it,from the diagram though I suspect in real life it's not that easy.
A picture of the real area would help.
I'd be bending a lot of coat hangers before I fork out $700+ !

 

[D2Cat]

I think that rod is in the open. Buy it and replace it! Not that complicated. If that doesn't suit you have someone but the two ends together and weld it. It's just a rod!

 

[Trimley]

Perseverance wins.
One bloody knuckle at a time.

Prior to beginning, check for better interest rates on "swear jar" deposits.

 

[Henro]

Or just live with as you have been...perfection is often not necessary for a good life...

Voice of experience speaking here...LOL

 

[Russell King]

Since the rod appears to be installed incorrectly is that a reason for it to break?

Can you cut the broken rod off and remove it and then install the new rod in the correct orientation (assuming the picture is correct)?

 

[Chanceywd]

Since the rod appears to be installed incorrectly is that a reason for it to break?

Can you cut the broken rod off and remove it and then install the new rod in the correct orientation (assuming the picture is correct)?

Maybe why it broke, because it was in wrong and pulling at an angle? With the offset in the rod halfway it doesn't seem like it could work right or for long in backwards
if it is as you say, cut it and install new like the diagram seems like a good plan.

bill

 

[muziccity]

Thanks to each of you for your response and input/suggestions. Regarding removing #040 and "wiggling" it out... 060, 070, 080, 090, and 100 are gone! It broke at about the midpoint cotter pin (#020) so from there back is gone. The piece towards the front is still there where it attaches to the bottom of the control lever (#170) That is where it won't come out. Dealership (master mechanic) says the ROPS, fenders, seat, tank, etc has to be removed to get it out. Then, they say roll pin #130 has to be removed so the control lever (#170) actually moves outboard (right) so feed back rod (#010) can then be removed. Again the way the drawing shows the rod would make this seem wrong, BUT, clearly the rod is not installed as the drawing shows. I think the error is is actually with the drawing. When you look at the photos attached it seems that the real world installation is the way it should be.

My final treatment to my yard this year is fast approaching and tractor will be pretty much idle for a couple months, so I will dive into this and see what happens. One way or the other I'll let you know. If anyone has an epiphany and sees an option that might work.....

Of course I'm dreamin' I just hope this doesn't turn into a nightmare.....

 

[Trimley]

If it were myself in your situation, and given "half" of the rod is there, I would somehow find a "sleeve" and make the other half of the rod, then join (weld) them together at the sleeve.

I don't have a visual of what you have for space where the rod is, but if it fell out, in my mind, (as tedious as it may seem) that half can be made and rejoined together.

 

[Chanceywd]

If it were myself in your situation, and given "half" of the rod is there, I would somehow find a "sleeve" and make the other half of the rod, then join (weld) them together at the sleeve.

I don't have a visual of what you have for space where the rod is, but if it fell out, in my mind, (as tedious as it may seem) that half can be made and rejoined together.

Your pictures make it a lot clearer and I would agree it is in the right way looking at the clearance on the other lever.
I think like Trimley and by having a new rod in hand along with the other missing parts I would make a splice piece out of something like a coupling nut bored thru of a piece of tubing. Then weld or drilled for setscrews. I know if it was mine I would try that. The new piece cut for the splice could have the splice welded to it out in the open. The end for the old half made with a set screw or 2, if no room for welding. Places like TSC have those specialty bins with lots of bushings you could use for your starting piece. Lowes carries a lot of that stuff too. Cutting it to the length could be carefully done with the adjustment area compensating for any minor difference in length.

Bill

I took another look at your pictures, Maybe pretty tight in there for a splice. I would want to make sure to move the lever thru it's full range to make sure a splice didn't catch or hit on anything else.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

wow, pictures ARE worth 1000 words, a lot will be '4 letter'.,sigh.
It'd be really nice if owners of same tractor series could post a picture to compare.
After looking at it for a whole coffee.... your rod is installed wrong, drawing is correct

If pointing 'in'. like the drawing, once you pull the retaining pin, you can move the outer lever to easily remove the end of the rod. When you get all the new parts, you should be able to 'line up' the rod and see it be 90* to both attachment points.

As for getting the broken rod out...maybe you can move the levers opposite ? and then rotate the rod out? If not, if(?) there's access, use a grinder and a very thin cutting disc to cut the rod where it enters the hole in the lever. A fresh hacksaw blade will get in there, just takes time.

 

[Chanceywd]

wow, pictures ARE worth 1000 words, a lot will be '4 letter'.,sigh.
It'd be really nice if owners of same tractor series could post a picture to compare.
After looking at it for a whole coffee.... your rod is installed wrong, drawing is correct

If pointing 'in'. like the drawing, once you pull the retaining pin, you can move the outer lever to easily remove the end of the rod. When you get all the new parts, you should be able to 'line up' the rod and see it be 90* to both attachment points.

As for getting the broken rod out...maybe you can move the levers opposite ? and then rotate the rod out? If not, if(?) there's access, use a grinder and a very thin cutting disc to cut the rod where it enters the hole in the lever. A fresh hacksaw blade will get in there, just takes time.

Looking at the second picture it just doesn't seem to be enough room between the levers if it is installed from the outside. But, it could be in the pictures and the space is actually more. Sure is one I'd like to see in person. Is there any rub marks where the existing rod was hitting one of those carriage head bolts leading to it breaking in the first place?

 

[muziccity]

When looking at it in real time, I just don't see how it could be installed from the opposite side to what it is now. Just isn't enough clearance and the way the rod is shaped makes it seem the way it is in is correct. Only way to tell for sure is to do something about it.

As Motion says, It would be great to have a WSM to give me the correct guidance for repairs and adjustments. Not that I am cheap, but almost 19 years without a manual...kinda reluctant to buy one now. Sure would like to get hands on a digital one......

 

[Trimley]

By "splice".... I'm talking very thin. 1/16" sheet metal may be too thick. I highly doubt Tractor Supply (or anyone local for that matter) would have what's needed. Online, yes, but it would take some searching. You would also need a piece of rod the same diameter. Form the bend and drill for a small hairpin, then cut for length. It won't matter too much if the rod is a little short, as long as there is atleast an inch of overlap of the splice.

Once the new half of rod is ready, temporarily put the bent end where it will be, then slide the piece of tubing on the rod. Raise the new piece of rod and the original half to the same plane, then slide the tubing half way to span both pieces. Then somehow mark where the tubing needs to be at on the new half, so it's equally spanning both pieces, then mark where the tubing needs to be on the new half of the rod. Then remove the tubing and the rod half replacement.

Slide the tubing to the mark you just made, then determine where to drill a 1/4" hole (half way of the distance, that it slides over the rod) through the tube. Slide the tube back on the rod to the line, then tack it together at the hole on both sides.

Then temporarily install the new half of rod. Once in place, with a marker, mark a place on the sleeve, which is the easiest placement to get the head of the welder, to weld it. Then remove the new half of rod.

Punch and drill a 1/4" hole (not through both sides of the tubing) on your mark.

At this time, you are ready for final assembly and welding.

I've read and re-read several times to correct. I hope what I said is clear and understandable.

 

[Henro]

Thinking a bit outside the box here, but thinking of my BX 2200, I pull back on the lever to raise the mower deck or 3PH, and push forward to lower.

In my mind, the important time the lever is automatically centered, is during the lift movement. This is so the hydraulics do not go into a situation where the pressure relief valve is operated and fluid flows through it constantly until the lever is centered. Worst case anyway.

So I am just thinking, if that rod is pulled when the 3PH is raised fully, then you could probably get by satisfactorily with a cable, rather than a rod. Can't push a cable I know, but you can pull a cable with the same effect as if it were a rod.

So if this were my situation, I would probably consider rigging up a cable to center the lever when the 3 PH is fully up, and not worry about the other position, since it would not hurt the tractor whether the lever is centered or not when the 3PH is lowered.

All dependent on whether the rod is pulled or pushed, to center the lever when the 3PH reaches the top of course...

Edit: Of course at my point in life now, I would as I suggested above, just live with it as it...