Broken Feed Back Rod

[TheOldHokie]

Thinking a bit outside the box here, but thinking of my BX 2200, I pull back on the lever to raise the mower deck or 3PH, and push forward to lower.

In my mind, the important time the lever is automatically centered, is during the lift movement. This is so the hydraulics do not go into a situation where the pressure relief valve is operated and fluid flows through it constantly until the lever is centered. Worst case anyway.

So I am just thinking, if that rod is pulled when the 3PH is raised fully, then you could probably get by satisfactorily with a cable, rather than a rod. Can't push a cable I know, but you can pull a cable with the same effect as if it were a rod.

So if this were my situation, I would probably consider rigging up a cable to center the lever when the 3 PH is fully up, and not worry about the other position, since it would not hurt the tractor whether the lever is centered or not when the 3PH is lowered.

All dependent on whether the rod is pulled or pushed, to center the lever when the 3PH reaches the top of course...

Edit: Of course at my point in life now, I would as I suggested above, just live with it as it...

That tractor does not have position control. I think the rod is strictly an aitomatic shutoff that automagically centers the valve when lift reaches full height.

 

[Henro]

That tractor does not have position control. I think the rod is strictly an aitomatic shutoff that automagically centers the valve when lift reaches full height.

I certainly understand that since I have a BX myself...LOL

But unless my mind is failing faster than I perceive, I believe if you run the hydraulic movement to its limit, you will activate the PRV...Actually not sure if that happens with my mower deck movement or not...seems like conceptionally it should.

 

[whitetiger]

The rod is installed correctly, and they are not difficult to replace at all.
Remove the ROPS, and both rear fenders, and move the fuel tank out of the way to access the pin through the control shaft.
Also, check the mount the rod goes through at the rear to see that it can pivot in the 3-point arm. If the pivot is seized, the rod will break again.

 

[Chanceywd]

The rod is installed correctly, and they are not difficult to replace at all.
Remove the ROPS, and both rear fenders, and move the fuel tank out of the way to access the pin through the control shaft.
Also, check the mount the rod goes through at the rear to see that it can pivot in the 3-point arm. If the pivot is seized, the rod will break again.

Thanks for clearing that up, Whitetiger.

Bill

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hm, in his picture there isn't a pin on the shaft #010, and rod is in backwards compared to the drawing so it's going to be interesting to hear HOW he gets the old one out and the new one in !

 

[whitetiger]

The "pin" is #130 in the parts picture. I have replaced a couple or three of the control rods.
Rod #10 is installed correctly in the OPs pictures regardless of how someone drew the parts picture.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I was referring to the pin #020, that holds the rod onto the lever.
You should be able to remove the #020 pin, then pull the rod #010 out of the lever.
this is one of those 'have to see it in person' problems, as the pictures don't show a lot of room .