New to me B6000 (won't start)

[Bulldog]

Sounds like you're on the right track. Maybe the new battery will do the trick.

 

[Apogee]

Fingers also crossed about the new battery.

Not trying to burst your bubble, you might also want to go to the following link and explore a bit. There is a WSM for your tractor, and I believe parts and maybe owner's manuals as well. They're free...

http://kubotabooks.com/

Good luck!

Steve

 

[wapiti39]

Thank you for the link, I actually stumbled across that page when gleaning all the past post and it was very helpful, unfortunately the B6000 manual is a bit hard to read (blurry) so I was more than willing to pay the 18 bucks for the clear copy version thanks for the info anyways. Also Bulldog you were correct on the PTO gears having a neutral in between each gear according to the manual. Thanks again.

 

[Apogee]

You're welcome regarding the link. The reason that I recommended buying the factory manual earlier is due to exactly what you describe. I think they tried to compress them a bit too much on that site to save bandwidth because mine weren't very clear either. That being said, I figured it might help get you going sooner rather than later.

You might also consider buying one of the diesel compression test sets from Harbor Freight (unless you already have one). They come with an adapter that fits the Kubota glow plug hole in the head and it would tell you right away whether or not you are going to need rings or not. The HF set is pretty cheap...

Please keep us posted on your progress.

Steve

 

[wapiti39]

Excellent, thanks for the tip on the HF kit, I spent a good chunk of time today looking online for an affordable kit and for some reason completely forgot about Harbor Freight. I will check them out tomorrow, maybe they will have a set in stock in their store here.

 

[wapiti39]

Ok, so here is the latest on the attempt to start this little beast. I have replaced the battery, battery cables ( does turn over faster now) bled the fuel lines one more time with some assistance from the manual, changed the engine oil ( found a small chunk of steel when pulling the filter ), changed the hydraulic fluid (crazy milky)(also found a tooth off a gear in the fluid) and still no luck on the starting, still puffs white and grayish smoke and smells like fuel. At this point I have purchased the compression tester unit from harbor freight ( thanks again for the tip on that purchase) and now I have found that I am unaware of how to properly test the compression ( have never done this on anything). I have removed the glow plug and inserted the adaptor for the gauge appropriately, the thing I had not thought about is the engine will not turn over when the metal rod connecting the glow plugs is disconnected? Metal rod did touch the adaptor on accident and smoked for a brief second until I saw what as happening. Rookie question I am sure, any tips on what obvious step I am missing here? Thank you as always for everyone's assistance.

 

[Lil Foot]

Sounds like you may have burned a fuse or fusible link.

 

[wapiti39]

Good call, I will now go and look for them now, thanks.

 

[wapiti39]

Alright, thanks for the tip lil foot, I checked thoroughly and I cannot locate a single fuse on that tractor (owners manual says there should be a fuse box behind the ignition area?) however I realized I don't have an electrical issue, it was shorting out for a brief second on the adaptor but the electrical works fine, what I did do however was grab my head firmly with both hands and removed it from my anus...... When you are holding the compression tester from the side of the tractor you are certainly not depressing the clutch, hence it would not turn over. . Maybe I need to grab a beer next time before I work on this again, I may stay thinking a little Clearer. One of those days I guess. Anyways I did perform the compression test and the findings are as follows. Front cylinder (closest to radiator) registered in at 300 PSI and the second cylinder registered at 320 PSI. Not sure what to expect on this little guy when sitting cold and cranking? Seem low to anyone? Thanks again for the assistance and patience while I kick my own &@z troubleshooting.

 

[Apogee]

Hi Wapti,

You're making progress...

The following link describes compression testing through the glow plug port. Figured you might want to take a gander at it just so we know you're doing it correctly...

http://tooldesk.com/blog/?p=321

Unfortunately, 300 psi seems low to me. On the B5100/B6100/B7100 series engines the compression is specified at (398-454 psi). Allowable minimum pressure is 341 psi.

Low compression pressure from worn rings would definitely cause your starting problems.

Steve

 

[eserv]

It will be pretty hard to start if it only has 300 # compression! Even 350 would be bare minimum for acceptable starting
Ed

 

[wapiti39]

Excellent, I had a feeling it was a deal to good to be true. Anyone ever rebuilt one of these and have a reference for a rough idea of the cost I am looking at? Thank you. Damn,damn, damn......

 

[Apogee]

Don't be too bummed. I ran into the exact same thing with my L175. Bought the tractor because the seller said it needed a little work but would run fine. Had 300 hours on it. What he didn't tell me was that the air cleaner had come loose while it was running and it had sucked a bunch of dust into the engine. Also neglected to tell me that he had then used starting fluid on it trying to get it running after that... Sigh... Unfortunately, I've been down this road before....

How many hours are on the tractor?

Sounds like you got it at a decent price, so a bit of elbow grease and you'll be fine. It's a good little tractor.

If the unit doesn't have a zillion hours on it, you might get away with just honing the cylinders, new rings and gaskets if you want to go really cheap. Likely ~$350 or so.

If you want to do it right because you intend to hang onto it, then likely about $1000 for a full rebuild that includes pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, head work, etc.

The last option is the obvious one which would be to just pull start it each time you want to use it. If it was running fine when you bought it, it would be a option for the time being.

Not trying to rain on your parade as it sounds like a nice little tractor. I think you likely did fine since it has the loader on it.

Please don't give up and keep us posted.

Kind regards,

Steve

 

[motorhead]

Excellent, I had a feeling it was a deal to good to be true. Anyone ever rebuilt one of these and have a reference for a rough idea of the cost I am looking at? Thank you. Damn,damn, damn......

Did you ever check the valve clearance? Had an old 300D Mercedes doing similar to what the Kubota is doing. Found out it had a few tight valves. It started much better after the valve adjust.

 

[wapiti39]

Thanks for the reply, I certainly plan on keeping it around and will go the long haul on the rebuild. Now to decide if I want to tackle it myself or pull it and have a shop do it. I don't have much rebuild experience since high school on my hot rod car at the time (64 old cutlass 455 Big block) graduated in 94 so it's been a while and have forgotten much of the experience. I do plan on keeping it around and giving it the much need love it deserves at this point. The more I look at this tractor the more is see it was abused. It appears it is missing some form of locking hub (dont know the proper terminology.
?)on the rear axles ( the axle wiggles when I rock the tractor from side to side) gonna be a long road ahead.)
As my wife says, the tractor is lucky to have found a new home like it has.

 

[wapiti39]

(Motorhead) I have yet to check the valve clearance, I plan on attempting to do this tomorrow. I am not entirely sure on what I am doing there as well to be honest with you. But I will pull the valve cover and dive in and try to learn. I am also ordering the parts ( what's available at least) for the decompression lever,hoping that may assist?

 

[wapiti39]

Apogee, don't know the amount of hours on the tractor, the hour meter was missing when I bought it. Of course

 

[motorhead]

(Motorhead) I have yet to check the valve clearance, I plan on attempting to do this tomorrow. I am not entirely sure on what I am doing there as well to be honest with you. But I will pull the valve cover and dive in and try to learn. I am also ordering the parts ( what's available at least) for the decompression lever,hoping that may assist?

Follow the directions I gave you and you should be ok.

 

[wapiti39]

Thank you, I will do.

 

[motorhead]

Thank you, I will do.

PM me and I will give you my phone number if you have any questions.

I wanted to add something to the directions I gave you:
When you use the mark you make on the balancer for a cylinder and set it to adjust the valves in that cylinder, wipe it off after. EACH cylinder will be set at a new location that you will mark on the balancer. REMEMBER, Turn the engine the direction it runs at by hand and watch for the EXHAUST valve to close and the intake valve just starts to open on the SAME cylinder. Make your mark then turn the crank pulley the same direction ONE COMPLETE TURN back to your mark. That cylinder is now at Top Dead Center Ready to Fire. This means that the piston is up at the top of the cylinder, the valves are both closed and the camshaft is on the BOTTOM side of the cam lobes.

You can tell the intake valve from the exhaust valve by looking at the port that the valve is in line with.
Looks like both valves are set at .008-.009 thousandths of an inch.