Excellent, thank you very much for the additional info. I will look into it today if time allows. Appreciate your willigness to help me, greatly appreciated.
New to me B6000 (won't start)
- Thread starter wapiti39
- Start date
I didn't realize that your tractor was only a 2 cylinder until today. That will make it real easy to do. I had a little B5100 diesel. Neat little tractor.
Being only a 2 cylinder then the marks you make on the crank pulley MAY work for BOTH cylinders.
Being only a 2 cylinder then the marks you make on the crank pulley MAY work for BOTH cylinders.
Well, I am fairly certain I have followed the instructions (Thanks Motorhead) correctly and adjusted the valves. Still no dice on it starting, I did however notice that when turning it over attempting to get her started that the exhaust turns from a light color to a much darker color progressively towards the end of the start up attempt (no more than 15 seconds total). I would assume the dark exhaust is unspent fuel correct? and probably normal? I believe my only small ray of hope is adding the decompression lever when the parts finally arrive, however I don't expect much difference on that outcome and will probably be looking into and saving up for a rebuild. Thanks for everyone's time.
Since you got sparks from the electric system, I would re-check eachnglow plug and verify continuity and voltage. You're fortunatenin that you know the thing runs. There is light at the end of the tunnel!
I have had decent luck starting worn out diesels by getting a hair drier and force-feeding hot air down the intake manifold. Direct the thing to blow onto the cylinder head for ten minutes or so first, to warm up the cylinder. On the B6000 you can open the compression release and circulate warm air through the cylinders while it cranks. Then deactivate the compression release and see if the motor tries to fire better.
Another trick that has helped me is the addition of Power Service additive to the fuel. In your area, you may be able to get #1 diesel, which may help, too. Another alternative would be devising a way to heat the fuel as it goes into the pump or injectors. Anything you can do to add heat into the system, or make the atomized fuel combust more easily will assist your starting difficulties.
I would suggest that once you have it running and have checked for leaks etc, and have things at operating temperature, go ahead and run it as hard as you can. If you have something heavy to drag, or a steep hill to climb, or some other way to put a load on the tractor do it. You may be able to unstick a ring, break down some cylinder glaze, decarbon the injectors, or otherwise help just by getting things good and hot.
I have had decent luck starting worn out diesels by getting a hair drier and force-feeding hot air down the intake manifold. Direct the thing to blow onto the cylinder head for ten minutes or so first, to warm up the cylinder. On the B6000 you can open the compression release and circulate warm air through the cylinders while it cranks. Then deactivate the compression release and see if the motor tries to fire better.
Another trick that has helped me is the addition of Power Service additive to the fuel. In your area, you may be able to get #1 diesel, which may help, too. Another alternative would be devising a way to heat the fuel as it goes into the pump or injectors. Anything you can do to add heat into the system, or make the atomized fuel combust more easily will assist your starting difficulties.
I would suggest that once you have it running and have checked for leaks etc, and have things at operating temperature, go ahead and run it as hard as you can. If you have something heavy to drag, or a steep hill to climb, or some other way to put a load on the tractor do it. You may be able to unstick a ring, break down some cylinder glaze, decarbon the injectors, or otherwise help just by getting things good and hot.
Thanks much for the tips, I will give them all a try, once I get the decompression lever installed. Still crossing my fingers.
They were all spaced larger than the feeler gauge for sure, wondering if that
Is why the exhaust when I am cranking it is darker after a bit than it was before the adjustment? Is the dark exhaust normal due to the fuel not firing?
Is why the exhaust when I am cranking it is darker after a bit than it was before the adjustment? Is the dark exhaust normal due to the fuel not firing?
Darker would mean to me that the engine is trying to fire more than white smoke would.
Have you considered pulling the cylinder head and checking to see if it has a blown head gasket? You had indicated in an earlier post that the compression was below the threshold of normal.
Have you considered pulling the cylinder head and checking to see if it has a blown head gasket? You had indicated in an earlier post that the compression was below the threshold of normal.
That is probably next after the installation of the decompression lever. After finding the small chunk of aluminum in the oil when I first changed it I am only expecting to find larger issues at this point. 
'small chunk of aluminum"??? Sounds like the cam plug is blown out. Wouldn't affect the starting unless the bearings are worn.
Not sure how large the cam plug is on these, the piece was a good quarter inch thick, and maybe a third of an inch wide, had a spot or two of machining present as well, not entirely sure what it was from.
Just a quick status update on my situation, currently awaiting the parts to arrive for my decompression lever (sometime next week hopefully, depending on where the separate parts are shipping from) once that arrives I will attempt to install and see if that assists with the start up situation. Anyone by chance have any idea how to set the little screw that sits inside the valve cover that the decompression lever actuates to decompress? I asked the dealer and they had no idea unfortunately. I would have to say the length of it will be fairly important as to not allow the decompression when it's not supposed to be actuated. Thank you.
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Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Ok, this is my first post, but i just picked up a B6000 with FEL two days ago for $200, that had been sitting for 7 years at a friends property. I went through a few things and fired it up tonight after about 4 hrs of going through it, and basic inspection.
This question may seem silly, but i didnt see you speak of it in your earlier posts. Is there an electric fuel pump on your tractor near the tool box and clutch safety switch?? Is it working, humming when your ign is turned on, pushing fuel?
The reason i asked is that mine did not have one and i tried starting it without it, as some people said it would work, but it did not. I then used a shop vav blowing into the fuel tank to get some pressure going, and it barely started, but wouldnt run without the shop vac.
So today i went and got a universal elec diesel fuel pump from oriellys P/N 12D, about $50. Installed it and she fired, first try.
In addition to that, i installed all new fuel line, cleaned tank, went through wiring, installed a new starter that was missing and two new frt tires, some hyd line.
Also of note was that my glow plug switch was not connected in the dash, but i think you already checked that.
Good luck.
GH
This question may seem silly, but i didnt see you speak of it in your earlier posts. Is there an electric fuel pump on your tractor near the tool box and clutch safety switch?? Is it working, humming when your ign is turned on, pushing fuel?
The reason i asked is that mine did not have one and i tried starting it without it, as some people said it would work, but it did not. I then used a shop vav blowing into the fuel tank to get some pressure going, and it barely started, but wouldnt run without the shop vac.
So today i went and got a universal elec diesel fuel pump from oriellys P/N 12D, about $50. Installed it and she fired, first try.
In addition to that, i installed all new fuel line, cleaned tank, went through wiring, installed a new starter that was missing and two new frt tires, some hyd line.
Also of note was that my glow plug switch was not connected in the dash, but i think you already checked that.
Good luck.
GH
Wow, sounds like you got one heck of a deal for sure. Congrats on that one. I did have the electric fuel pump and it does work, wish it was something like that at this point in the game.
Update as well on my efforts, I have now installed the decompression parts that were missing ( i had to fab my own decompression rod, could not locate one anywhere in the country)and adjusted to the best of my ability thanks to the help on the forum and still no luck. If anyone happens to have a picture of the decompression rod installed and wouldn't mind posting it I would like to compare to the one I made to see if the angles are correct. Thanks in advance for any help on that.
It appears its time for me to drag it to the local Kubota dealer for them to look it over and quote me a rebuild (ouch). However I need to draw on all of your experience for that as well. As I mentioned earlier in this thread I pulled a rookie move and dropped the FEL and rear tiller all the way down while changing the fluids and now of course can't start the little beast. Are there any old tractor tricks I am missing to raise these while it won't start or am I stuck removing the FEL and rear tiller in order to winch it into my trailer for the repair trip? Also when removing the FEL (which I believe is my only option) any tips n capping off the incoming and outgoing hydraulic lines to the FEL from the tractor, or simply gets some plugs and I will be good? Thanks again for everyone's assistance through this process. And again Gearheadz congrats on your purchase.
Update as well on my efforts, I have now installed the decompression parts that were missing ( i had to fab my own decompression rod, could not locate one anywhere in the country)and adjusted to the best of my ability thanks to the help on the forum and still no luck. If anyone happens to have a picture of the decompression rod installed and wouldn't mind posting it I would like to compare to the one I made to see if the angles are correct. Thanks in advance for any help on that.
It appears its time for me to drag it to the local Kubota dealer for them to look it over and quote me a rebuild (ouch). However I need to draw on all of your experience for that as well. As I mentioned earlier in this thread I pulled a rookie move and dropped the FEL and rear tiller all the way down while changing the fluids and now of course can't start the little beast. Are there any old tractor tricks I am missing to raise these while it won't start or am I stuck removing the FEL and rear tiller in order to winch it into my trailer for the repair trip? Also when removing the FEL (which I believe is my only option) any tips n capping off the incoming and outgoing hydraulic lines to the FEL from the tractor, or simply gets some plugs and I will be good? Thanks again for everyone's assistance through this process. And again Gearheadz congrats on your purchase.
Wapiti,
A couple of things:
Did you check each glow plug individually or did you just check voltage at the tips without taking anything apart? I ask because you really need to remove the wire or strap that connects them and measure each one individually to get its resistance.
I'd strongly recommend reviewing 284 International's comments above. The recommendations he made are right on track.
I'd second the idea of putting a heat gun or hair dryer into the intake manifold as you're trying to start it. Just take off the hose that connects the air cleaner and direct the hot air into the manifold. Get as much heat in there as you can. You might get lucky and get it to start that way... You can also use a propane torch but be careful not to melt the manifold as it's only aluminum. It's a shot in the dark, but it might help you get the loader off the ground and the thing moved.
Make sure your battery is fully charged and your glow plugs are well heated up (30 seconds or so) before you try cranking it.
Also, if it were me, as a first step I'd pull the injectors and take them in to get tested. If they're shooting streams instead of the correct spray pattern, it will also make it tough to get it started. You will want to get them checked and likely rebuilt when you do the engine anyway, so why not get them done now...
Lastly, as a last resort, the other option would be to give it shot of ether (starting fluid) while cranking it since you are going to rebuild it anyway. These engines don't like ether and it WILL crack pistons so you have to be REALLY careful with it. But in this situation it might help you get the thing moved.
Kind regards,
Steve
PS - I'm sure I'll get lambasted for recommending that you give it a shot of ether but I really don't think you have much to lose. I wouldn't be surprised if that is how the previous owner was starting it.
A couple of things:
Did you check each glow plug individually or did you just check voltage at the tips without taking anything apart? I ask because you really need to remove the wire or strap that connects them and measure each one individually to get its resistance.
I'd strongly recommend reviewing 284 International's comments above. The recommendations he made are right on track.
I'd second the idea of putting a heat gun or hair dryer into the intake manifold as you're trying to start it. Just take off the hose that connects the air cleaner and direct the hot air into the manifold. Get as much heat in there as you can. You might get lucky and get it to start that way... You can also use a propane torch but be careful not to melt the manifold as it's only aluminum. It's a shot in the dark, but it might help you get the loader off the ground and the thing moved.
Make sure your battery is fully charged and your glow plugs are well heated up (30 seconds or so) before you try cranking it.
Also, if it were me, as a first step I'd pull the injectors and take them in to get tested. If they're shooting streams instead of the correct spray pattern, it will also make it tough to get it started. You will want to get them checked and likely rebuilt when you do the engine anyway, so why not get them done now...
Lastly, as a last resort, the other option would be to give it shot of ether (starting fluid) while cranking it since you are going to rebuild it anyway. These engines don't like ether and it WILL crack pistons so you have to be REALLY careful with it. But in this situation it might help you get the thing moved.
Kind regards,
Steve
PS - I'm sure I'll get lambasted for recommending that you give it a shot of ether but I really don't think you have much to lose. I wouldn't be surprised if that is how the previous owner was starting it.
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Apogee
Thanks for the tips, I have tried the hairdryer method ( Thanks for the tip 284 International) to no avail, however I have not removed the new glow plugs and tested them individually, not entirely sure what I am testing to find? I believe it should have a rough set resistance correct? anyone have an idea of what it should read if tested end to end for resistance?
The battery is well charged and hooked up to a trickle charger when attempting to start, I will run the glow plugs for a good 90 seconds and still no luck. the Injector pull and test is something that I have completely overlooked, I believe I will pull them and get them taken care of before i pull the tractor apart and send it for a rebuild, thats a very good idea. Thank you for your insight.
Thanks for the tips, I have tried the hairdryer method ( Thanks for the tip 284 International) to no avail, however I have not removed the new glow plugs and tested them individually, not entirely sure what I am testing to find? I believe it should have a rough set resistance correct? anyone have an idea of what it should read if tested end to end for resistance?
The battery is well charged and hooked up to a trickle charger when attempting to start, I will run the glow plugs for a good 90 seconds and still no luck. the Injector pull and test is something that I have completely overlooked, I believe I will pull them and get them taken care of before i pull the tractor apart and send it for a rebuild, thats a very good idea. Thank you for your insight.
Wapiti,
The other thing you might consider would be to have a valve job done on the head. Far less work to pull the head than to pull the whole engine.
If I were you and was doing a rebuild, the head would get done anyway, so like the injectors, you either do it now or later...
Each glow plug should test a couple of ohms from base to tip. I had forgotten that you put new ones in. Still doesn't hurt to check them.
Unfortunately, by the sounds of things, it's very likely rings. Hence, you might as well just dive in. I posted the above so you'd have progressive steps if you wanted to try other things first. Doing the head *might* get the compression up high enough to let it start and run, but no promises.
If you do decide to pull the head, make sure to have it checked for cracks and also pressure checked. Find a place that does lots of diesel heads because they will know better what to look for.
Good luck!
Steve
The other thing you might consider would be to have a valve job done on the head. Far less work to pull the head than to pull the whole engine.
If I were you and was doing a rebuild, the head would get done anyway, so like the injectors, you either do it now or later...
Each glow plug should test a couple of ohms from base to tip. I had forgotten that you put new ones in. Still doesn't hurt to check them.
Unfortunately, by the sounds of things, it's very likely rings. Hence, you might as well just dive in. I posted the above so you'd have progressive steps if you wanted to try other things first. Doing the head *might* get the compression up high enough to let it start and run, but no promises.
If you do decide to pull the head, make sure to have it checked for cracks and also pressure checked. Find a place that does lots of diesel heads because they will know better what to look for.
Good luck!
Steve
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