2013 B2650 No lcd Display & No Start?

[MadDadder]

It ran fine, I parked it and the next day I had no lcd display & it wouldn't even try to start. The battery is good and reads 12.49v but just to try I hooked it up to cables getting 14v from another vehicle. The headlights, outside cab lights, low battery light and preheat all work. All the fuses between the feet in the fuse box look and test good as well. I have seen all the safety switch problems, so I checked their continuity. I think the 2013 only has 5, but I'm not 100% sure, and they all test good. Not only that, but I tracked the 12v to the opc it clicks when I turn the key to run. Is this normal or bad, and is there a way to test this controller/relay? The 12v does exit the relay when key is in start position. I absolutely hate electrical, and it's not my forte, but I am very mechanically inclined. I was born and raised on a farm, so I know a lot about a little and a little about a lot. A jack of all trades, master of none kind of guy. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

 

[John D 2]

I have seen batteries show 12 volts until you put a load on them. . .

My father taught me to always start with the simple things first.

If it were me, and I had a battery that I could swap out and put it in the tractor to verify it's not the current battery that's what I would do first.

Good luck.

 

[06B3030]

If you have a "GOOD" battery, you might want to pull the dash next. There was someone earlier with dash/electrical issues and I recommended pulling the dash and making sure you don't have something like this...

Under dash...

 

[MadDadder]

I have seen batteries show 12 volts until you put a load on them. . .

My father taught me to always start with the simple things first.

If it were me, and I had a battery that I could swap out and put it in the tractor to verify it's not the current battery that's what I would do first.

Good luck.

Yeah, one of the first things I tried was jumping it with a running vehicle at 14v, but the lcd gauges won't even come on with the key in the run position, let alone being under a load. Sounds like you grew up about the same way I did because I had that beat into my brain as well. Following Occam's razor has always served me well. Thanks for the reply, though! Lol

 

[MadDadder]

If you have a "GOOD" battery, you might want to pull the dash next. There was someone earlier with dash/electrical issues and I recommended pulling the dash and making sure you don't have something like this...

Under dash...

Also, I have pulled the dash already and gave all the wiring etc. a very thorough visual inspection. Everything looks to be in good working order as far as I can tell. Other than the opc control/relay clicks when the key is turned to on which I don't know if that's normal or not. Thank you for the reply.

 

[Lug66]

These WSM pages will help tighten up the choke on the olé 870. I’d charge up the battery and then load test it if you still have issues.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

You really need the wiring diagram ! Hard to understand why the LCD screen doesn't power up if all fuses are OK. I'd expect it has a dedicated fuse ?? BX23S is that way.
kubotabooks has the b2650 cab version wsm online !!!
there's TWO fuses for the LCD 'meter' unit.

 

[Lug66]

Try swapping fuse #9 (5A) with #17 (5A spare). It kills the panel and opc with one fuse.

 

[MadDadder]

Try swapping fuse #9 (5A) with #17 (5A spare). It kills the panel and opc with one fuse.

Wow?? Must be cheaply made fuses. I was actually in the process of replacing all the fuses just as a desperate attempt. I guess great minds think alike, LMAO. The Fuse ohm's checked out ok, and it was getting 12v through in certain conditions. I came back and you had posted this. I also looked into it because in 40 years of farm maintenance and industrial, I have never seen this?

on a blade fuse. I have had Buss fuses hang and do this, or fuses older than the double element ones. Likewise, I guess there's a first time for everything. Thanks for the reply! Never had both Ohm and volt test ok, but still a junk fuse, they just don't make anything like they used too.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Wow?? Must be cheaply made fuses. I was actually in the process of replacing all the fuses just as a desperate attempt. I guess great minds think alike, LMAO. The Fuse ohm's checked out ok, and it was getting 12v through in certain conditions. I came back and you had posted this. I also looked into it because in 40 years of farm maintenance and industrial, I have never seen this?

on a blade fuse. I have had Buss fuses hang and do this, or fuses older than the double element ones. Likewise, I guess there's a first time for everything. Thanks for the reply! Never had both Ohm and volt test ok, but still a junk fuse, they just don't make anything like they used too.

It was pretty clear you werent getting power on the LCD circuit. Bad electrical connections develop all of the time. Any wiring component is susceptible and fuses and fuse holders are no exception.

Ohm meters and voltmeters draw milliamps and mask the problem. A test lamp that draws a bigger load and is properly used is less likely to be fooled.

Dan

 

[MadDadder]

It was pretty clear you werent getting power on the LCD circuit. Bad electrical connections develop all of the time. Any wiring component is susceptible and fuses and fuse holders are no exception.

Ohm meters and voltmeters draw milliamps and mask the problem. A test lamp that draws a bigger load and is properly used is less likely to be fooled.

Dan

Yeah

It was pretty clear you werent getting power on the LCD circuit. Bad electrical connections develop all of the time. Any wiring component is susceptible and fuses and fuse holders are no exception.

Ohm meters and voltmeters draw milliamps and mask the problem. A test lamp that draws a bigger load and is properly used is less likely to be fooled.

Dan

Thing is it actually was getting 12v to the LCD and I started with a test lamp, and it lit up but switched to get specific numbers. I honestly was real close to thinking the LCD had gone bad somehow. It was one of those this doesn't make sense, I've got to be missing something moments what am I overlooking beat my head against a wall things. Lol

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yeah

Thing is it actually was getting 12v to the LCD and I started with a test lamp, and it lit up but switched to get specific numbers.

Yes but 12V does not mean power. A test lamp (incandescent not LED) at the panel would have shown that right off the bat. Voltage and resistance numbers don't tell the same story.

Dan

 

[MadDadder]

Yes but 12V does not mean power. A test lamp (incandescent not LED) at the panel would have shown that right off the bat. Voltage and resistance numbers don't tell the same story.

Dan

Yeah, I was going to say it was one of those little cheapo test lights someone walked off with my snap on light, hahemmm kids. I call them kids, but the one that probably walked off with it is 25, and I will probably find it laying in my yard where he worked on something.

 

[MadDadder]

It ran fine, I parked it and the next day I had no lcd display & it wouldn't even try to start. The battery is good and reads 12.49v but just to try I hooked it up to cables getting 14v from another vehicle. The headlights, outside cab lights, low battery light and preheat all work. All the fuses between the feet in the fuse box look and test good as well. I have seen all the safety switch problems, so I checked their continuity. I think the 2013 only has 5, but I'm not 100% sure, and they all test good. Not only that, but I tracked the 12v to the opc it clicks when I turn the key to run. Is this normal or bad, and is there a way to test this controller/relay? The 12v does exit the relay when key is in start position. I absolutely hate electrical, and it's not my forte, but I am very mechanically inclined. I was born and raised on a farm, so I know a lot about a little and a little about a lot. A jack of all trades, master of none kind of guy. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

Thank you, to everyone who replied to this post, I do deeply appreciate you all!
John D 2
06B3030
Lug66
GreensvilleJay
&
TheOldHokie
Thanks All!

 

[Jsjac]

Did you get it started? What was the solution?