Mounting new LED lights on B2650HSD

[nbryan]

Just got my new "attachments" in mail, so today's afternoon mission is clear.

Any suggestions/hints on mounting these on my ROPS will be much appreciated.

Also, any reviews on Nilight products?

More specifically, mounting and using on compact tractor ROPS like mine?

I've zip ties and wiring/soldering tools and experience, so am quite prepared to add any power supply wiring if needed.

TIA!

 

[06B3030]

I just mounted one 4" square light on the right side of my ROPS using a magnetic mount. I used the 20A Fused work lights connector back under the rear right taillight. I mounted the relay up under there and ran the switch harness back to my dash. Fortunately I have a "removable" panel that i mounted the switch to so I didn't have to drill into my dash. This way if the switch ever fails, I just have to remove a couple screws. I do have to paint them black!

You can just barely make out the 4" square LED Light circled in red...
This picture was meant to show off the new LED headlight bulbs.

The single LED light on the ROPS does an amazing job...

 

[nbryan]

I just mounted one 4" square light on the right side of my ROPS using a magnetic mount. I used the 20A Fused work lights connector back under the rear right taillight. I mounted the relay up under there and ran the switch harness back to my dash. Fortunately I have a "removable" panel that i mounted the switch to so I didn't have to drill into my dash. This way if the switch ever fails, I just have to remove a couple screws. I do have to paint them black!

Thanks for the pics and hints. My power lead for addons is indeed at right rear fender.

All my lighting will be mounted inside the rops bar. Where yours is mounted wouldn't last a good day's work in the forest and bush here.

I busted (then repaired) then eventually tore off the original plastic tool box while bush working mostly firewood in the first 1 1/2 years. The mounting bracket is sturdy but I've smashed 2 metal tool boxes nearly clean off of it since the plastic one saw the recycle bin. Can't be looking over my shoulder while powering through snow lifting logs with the forks out of the bush. Those bigger trees don't budge and the damage is not even noticed usually until I get off the machine. The last metal box looked like an accordion.

So these lights are NOT going outside the rops lol. As long as I'm not banging my head on any of them, there's got to be a way to mount them there without modding the actual rops itself.

How to clamp their base brackets on there?

 

[06B3030]

Thanks for the pics and hints. My power lead for addons is indeed at right rear fender.

All my lighting will be mounted inside the rops bar. Where yours is mounted wouldn't last a good day's work in the forest and bush here.

I busted (then repaired) then eventually tore off the original plastic tool box while bush working mostly firewood in the first 1 1/2 years. The mounting bracket is sturdy but I've smashed 2 metal tool boxes nearly clean off of it since the plastic one saw the recycle bin. Can't be looking over my shoulder while powering through snow lifting logs with the forks out of the bush. Those bigger trees don't budge and the damage is not even noticed usually until I get off the machine. The last metal box looked like an accordion.

So these lights are NOT going outside the rops lol. As long as I'm not banging my head on any of them, there's got to be a way to mount them there without modding the actual rops itself.

How to clamp their base brackets on there?

All kinds of magnetic mounts....
This way you can change things around if needed. I left enough slack in the harness so I can mount mine on either side of the ROPS.

You could make a metal base to secure the light to and use rectangular u-bolts...just have to measure for the correct size.

 

[RCW]

@Kennyd4110 of BoltonHooks.com has some clamps.

ROPS Clamp™ - BoltOnHooks LLC

ROPS Clamps

www.boltonhooks.com

Don't have them, but look like they'd do the job, and maybe allow a mount inside the ROPS? (looks like might be threaded all four sides for different mount options?)

 

[dirtydeed]

I also used the nilight kit. It worked great. Also used magnetic mounts. No issues in several years.

let me know if you need links to magnets (I see that you already got the nilight kit). I did fish the wire up thru the bottom of the rops and out the hole in the top of the rops. all my wires are contained within the rops.

 

[Kennyd4110]

Don't have them, but look like they'd do the job, and maybe allow a mount inside the ROPS? (looks like might be threaded all four sides for different mount options?)

Yes, there is a threaded hole on each of the four sides.

 

[RCW]

Just got my new "attachments" in mail, so today's afternoon mission is clear.

Any suggestions/hints on mounting these on my ROPS will be much appreciated.

Also, any reviews on Nilight products?

More specifically, mounting and using on compact tractor ROPS like mine?

I've zip ties and wiring/soldering tools and experience, so am quite prepared to add any power supply wiring if needed.

TIA! View attachment 111477

I've been considering new winter lights too. Reason I pointed out the ROPS clamps. Thought the clamps with a ~6x1x0.125 inch piece of steel mounted to the clamp would let me do a solid mount both forward and back on one mounting point.

Mine would have to be on top of the ROPS. BX2360's have short ROPS. My big ole Noggin would block a forward light under the ROPS.

That looks like a very nice kit - - how many watts is it rated? How many lumens?

Several folks have pointed out that the actual draw of LED's is much less than advertised, which is good on a tractor.

Is your B2650 a dynamo or alternator?

 

[nbryan]

I also used the nilight kit. It worked great. Also used magnetic mounts. No issues in several years.

let me know if you need links to magnets (I see that you already got the nilight kit). I did fish the wire up thru the bottom of the rops and out the hole in the top of the rops. all my wires are contained within the rops.

View attachment 111487

View attachment 111488

View attachment 111489

I'd like to check out your magnets link, please. Looked at the ROPS clamp and need to find something less expensive,at least I hope to. Then it's 3"x2" square U-bolts from the hardware store, old innertube rubber for padding, and drill a few holes in some metal plate lying around.

 

[kubotasaurus]

I came really close to using Click-Bond studs to mount my lights. They are held on with an epoxy adhesive. Ultimately, they were a bit more than I wanted to spend. Click-Bond sells them in large lots, so you have to buy them from resellers.
Check out how strong they are here.

I used magnets for the top and a L-brackets for the side cubes bolted through the existing holes in the ROPS.

 

[Fordtech86]

Also, any reviews on Nilight products?

Have a few on the Bota and one on the zero turn. Might suggest testing the light bar before installing it, save the disappointment if only half of it lights up . Other then that one light bar issue that was easy to swap out (Amazon) they have been ok

 

[dirtydeed]

I'd like to check out your magnets link, please. Looked at the ROPS clamp and need to find something less expensive,at least I hope to. Then it's 3"x2" square U-bolts from the hardware store, old innertube rubber for padding, and drill a few holes in some metal plate lying around.

These are what I used. I did have to lop off about 1/4" of thread because the stud was just a little long for my lights. The magnets are very strong, but you can twist/turn them into position. Other than that, they haven't budged.

The pic I posted above was from before I cut the studs down. In the pic, you can see where I used a nut as a spacer since the studs were a bit too long. The light brackets now sit flush on the magnet base.

I also bought some decent shielded wire to splice into the nilight kit since I went with the battery connection with relay. That way, I can turn the lights on without keyed on position.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKWCVTX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[Velma]

I have the nilight pods going on a year now. I installed mine the simplist way I could. Used existing holes in the ROPS for a light on each side. And simply used the under fender bullet connectors for power. The only downside is they are switched on with the key. But again the install was done in an hour with zero mods to the tractor. They have not seen weather but the lights have been great over 50+ hours of continuous use. And inexpensive to replace.

 

[nbryan]

I've been considering new winter lights too. Reason I pointed out the ROPS clamps. Thought the clamps with a ~6x1x0.125 inch piece of steel mounted to the clamp would let me do a solid mount both forward and back on one mounting point.

Mine would have to be on top of the ROPS. BX2360's have short ROPS. My big ole Noggin would block a forward light under the ROPS.

That looks like a very nice kit - - how many watts is it rated? How many lumens?

Several folks have pointed out that the actual draw of LED's is much less than advertised, which is good on a tractor.

Is your B2650 a dynamo or alternator?

Dynamo, 14.5 amp charge from specs.

i put the digital multimeter in 10A mode in series with each LED unit on a 12V battery.

Light bar draw - 7.5 A
Each Cube: 1 A
So total at 12V is 9.5 amps for all 3 lights.
But at charge voltage 14.2V, needs 11.25A which needs the 15A fuse.

Says 1250 lumens for the bar light.

 

[nbryan]

These are what I used. I did have to lop off about 1/4" of thread because the stud was just a little long for my lights. The magnets are very strong, but you can twist/turn them into position. Other than that, they haven't budged.

The pic I posted above was from before I cut the studs down. In the pic, you can see where I used a nut as a spacer since the studs were a bit too long. The light brackets now sit flush on the magnet base.

I also bought some decent shielded wire to splice into the nilight kit since I went with the battery connection with relay. That way, I can turn the lights on without keyed on position.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKWCVTX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

View attachment 111521

So 150lb pull force, I'll look around, thx for the ref!
I'll need 4 mounts in all for the 3 lights so the added 100 buckeroonies is again an obstacle, but thx none the less!
Creativity kicks in in direct proportion to the level of financial pain it could avoid. And I've got time to be creative!

 

[nbryan]

A update to add:

I tried adding one cube to the rear marker lamp circuit by touching its leads to the tail light's power leads and it lit up fine. so there's no problem it seems powering the new LED cube from there. 1A each isn't a lot to add.

So adding the idea to the mix of maybe having the 2 cubes run direct on the tail light circuit for when the headlights are turned on.

Then wiring the bar with the supplied harness and switch, giving me big bar lamp power with tractor on or off. Then there's only 2 amps added load normally when headlamps are switched on adding the 2 cubes.

And a 10A circuit like the one for add-on power already on the right fender should then power the +-9A bar.

A big HMMMmmm..... time to sleep on it.

 

[06B3030]

Anyone that has a B2650 can always upgrade the dynamo to the 40A alternator using this 40 Amp Alternator Kit B7324.

It lists the B2630 in the "For Tractors", but it is compatible with the B2650. Here's a YouTube Install Video of a guy installing it in his B2650.

I installed it mainly because I added a winch to the front of the tractor. The alternator is a nice upgrade!

Only "gotcha" for me was having to relocate the dipstick tube. This isn't an issue with the B2350 hood design. Mine was right where the new alternator was located. Kubota gives you a new dipstick that goes directly in the block which would require me to remove my front grill and side panel to check the oil.

I rerouted mime between the engine and muffler...

Had to cut off the original bracket and "rework" it to mount it in place.

 

[model94]

I have the nilight pods going on a year now. I installed mine the simplist way I could. Used existing holes in the ROPS for a light on each side. And simply used the under fender bullet connectors for power. The only downside is they are switched on with the key. But again the install was done in an hour with zero mods to the tractor. They have not seen weather but the lights have been great over 50+ hours of continuous use. And inexpensive to replace.

Simple is always the best way for sure.

 

[model94]

These are what I used. I did have to lop off about 1/4" of thread because the stud was just a little long for my lights. The magnets are very strong, but you can twist/turn them into position. Other than that, they haven't budged.

The pic I posted above was from before I cut the studs down. In the pic, you can see where I used a nut as a spacer since the studs were a bit too long. The light brackets now sit flush on the magnet base.

I also bought some decent shielded wire to splice into the nilight kit since I went with the battery connection with relay. That way, I can turn the lights on without keyed on position.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKWCVTX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

View attachment 111521

This is just what i was hoping to find. I see they offer a version that is rubber encased, but it doesn't provide a force rating. I'm going to try them anyway, the diameter is the same as the 90 lb version.