fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
blew a hole in the side of the block
- Thread starter joesmith123
- Start date
I have to save it because:
I have bucket and digger for it
There is no selling planned ever
Part it out: bad idea, those parts aren’t in demand
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
I'm not a mechanic, but something like this happened to my Dad's 1978 Honda Civic CVCC Wagon back around 1982.
I bought the car off him for $1.00.
I had a local welder weld a patch over the hole (as I didn't weld back then).
Then I went to the Honda dealer and bought a new connecting rod (this was the piece that broke originally-and put a hole in the block)
I put it all back together and filled it with oil and got something silly like 45mpg with it over the next year or two. Sold it to a buddy and he drove it a couple more years.
AFAIK, there's not much pressure in the block, so if the patch is "OK-ish", things will hold. ()tractors may be different().
BUT
You need to determine WHY you have a hole in the first place. (and get any swarf outta there)_
I didn't read every reply.....maybe you already said.
Good luck.
I bought the car off him for $1.00.
I had a local welder weld a patch over the hole (as I didn't weld back then).
Then I went to the Honda dealer and bought a new connecting rod (this was the piece that broke originally-and put a hole in the block)
I put it all back together and filled it with oil and got something silly like 45mpg with it over the next year or two. Sold it to a buddy and he drove it a couple more years.
AFAIK, there's not much pressure in the block, so if the patch is "OK-ish", things will hold. ()tractors may be different().
BUT
You need to determine WHY you have a hole in the first place. (and get any swarf outta there)_
I didn't read every reply.....maybe you already said.
Good luck.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
BTDT ,several times over the decades on small gas engines on riding mowers. Drill small holes at ends of cracks, Nut and bolt patch over top,with JBWeld mushed in between block and plate. Replace conrod, clean out the sump,reassemble, add oil, good to go.
Have seen several gas farm tractors repaired with patches screwed on. You do what you can, with what you got..do it right, it'll outlive you and your kids....
Maybe get them side by side, with their own parts benches. Take stuff off one, then remove the same stuff off the other, go back to 1st, take more off, then take same off the 2nd. It might go faster as you're using the same tools doing the same procedure twice ?
Slow and steady and you'll win. You have to have patience and not get frustrated. When you do, just go 'walkabout' for a bit. And take pictures, it'll really help when reassembling
Have seen several gas farm tractors repaired with patches screwed on. You do what you can, with what you got..do it right, it'll outlive you and your kids....
Maybe get them side by side, with their own parts benches. Take stuff off one, then remove the same stuff off the other, go back to 1st, take more off, then take same off the 2nd. It might go faster as you're using the same tools doing the same procedure twice ?
Slow and steady and you'll win. You have to have patience and not get frustrated. When you do, just go 'walkabout' for a bit. And take pictures, it'll really help when reassembling
Lots of work, make it a hobby as others have mentioned. Patience and finding joy in it is king.
Too bad you don't have a kid or brother who could help and learn in the process.
As for the overhaul... You can do it all. Mostly. Having rebuilt a couple engines myself a long time ago, I learned that you'll be better off paying a professional to hone cylinders and selecting your pistons and rings. Valves and head work too if it's not too pricy.
As for the sense of doing it in the first place, that's all your desire and wallet size.
As for just swapping engines, that could go pretty fast.
If the level of perfection and quality don't seem to be an issue, slam that other motor in and start digging with your 'digger'.
Good luck, and have fun.
Too bad you don't have a kid or brother who could help and learn in the process.
As for the overhaul... You can do it all. Mostly. Having rebuilt a couple engines myself a long time ago, I learned that you'll be better off paying a professional to hone cylinders and selecting your pistons and rings. Valves and head work too if it's not too pricy.
As for the sense of doing it in the first place, that's all your desire and wallet size.
As for just swapping engines, that could go pretty fast.
If the level of perfection and quality don't seem to be an issue, slam that other motor in and start digging with your 'digger'.
Good luck, and have fun.
reminds me of a certain person I used to drag race with. Had a '56 Ford, but powered by a 440 Mopar (or 440-based, I think it was actually 499"). He was never one to do things "right", rather patch it together and make "good enough" work for him.
Similar, at the races, kicked a rod out, knocked a hole in the side of the block. Again (he'd done it before, the stock style rods are a little weak for what he was doing). Last block, too (he used to have tons of spares). Took it home, cleaned it up, cut out a cast iron skillet and welded it in. Did not leak. Never cracked. Far as I know it's still in the car, although he's passed on now, his boy has the car now-and from what I'm told, it actually runs/drives still.
I wouldn't have done it but whatever. An oil leak under drag slicks is not good. Not good at all, usually results in crash.
Similar, at the races, kicked a rod out, knocked a hole in the side of the block. Again (he'd done it before, the stock style rods are a little weak for what he was doing). Last block, too (he used to have tons of spares). Took it home, cleaned it up, cut out a cast iron skillet and welded it in. Did not leak. Never cracked. Far as I know it's still in the car, although he's passed on now, his boy has the car now-and from what I'm told, it actually runs/drives still.
I wouldn't have done it but whatever. An oil leak under drag slicks is not good. Not good at all, usually results in crash.
Maybe not - from what I am gathering here, I do have options, either patch it or get the spare block
Attached is a picture of the machine fully put together with the bucket and the digger
(not picture of the one i have, but a general picture of one)
Show me a machine with the same power and capabilities for less than 15K?
Plus the cost of moving stuff across the country is not cheap
Anything similar minimum is 17K out the door
It would be nuts to let this one go, especially if some of these comments are correct in their advice
And 17k is for a used one that will need 2-3K in fluids/hoses/seat/tire/etc/etc/etc
Attachments
Thats incredible, I will keep that in mind, I have not decided whether to patch it or get the other block
You need to determine WHY you have a hole in the first place. (and get any swarf outta there)_
I didn't read every reply.....maybe you already said.
[/QUOTE]
Yes, the reason:
couple months ago, I was getting the engine running. I showed this forum the video. They told me there is some kind of clanking that needs addressed (not "benign" is the word they used, i forget who), look at my other post and you'll find it
My idea: before getting deep into the engine, use it a little bit and level out the land, and build the area that you can do surgery, it had good power and is making good progress
Lesson: listen to the forum more next time (lesson to myself)
They told me to take off the head, even one person saw a video and said "cylinder number 2 is backfiring/pumping or whatever
Then boom, the center cylinder is the one that exploded (center of the 3 cylinder engine)
Wow, thats a really good idea... That would eliminate a ton of labor etc. Once I get a chance and sit down and clear out the area, then I will study how to get a good patch on there. That wouldnt require any welding, hiring someone, etc.
In my mind at this moment: this is the first plan, and if that fails, then i go on to more elaborate surgery...
This kind of advice is exactly what a person needs to hear, its only known through experience... I'm listening...
Ok, if I have to do have major surgery and split tractors, then yes, this is the plan...
Yes, I probably should, but first, once I'm there (I'm not even close), I'll probably just take clear pictures and see what the people say,
I'll entertain maybe getting a new head from kubota, but the bottom part I will probably have to do myself, itll get figured out
"... your desire and wallet size"
I'm doing it because it saves tons of money and it will create tons of money, and that was the plan originally, to fix this machine
"swapping engines"
Yes, I would do it if it was reasonable. What I'm noticing: there are no new units. There are new parts, but they're very pricey. To have someone do it professionally, its impossible. Why? it would cost 10K in labor. I would entertain doing a repower but I think that is way above my skills. I have better avenues with spare parts.
"digging with your 'digger'"
Yes I dont care about perfection, I just need to move dirt. Why did you put 'digger' in quotes? Is this machine not that good at digging? I havent installed the backhoe yet and have never used the feature.
Wow thats amazing, and if i can figure it out, it would save me tons of labor
Those people who are good at salvaging and engineering, are modern geniuses. They can multiply their wealth because others are spending on "new equipment"
Reasons not to get "new machine"
The steel they are using is way thinner, this machine is absolute tank. I ran it for an hour with no hydraulics etc, and it still leveled the land like a boss
Its got an insane 4x4 system and massive tires, good luck getting it stuck. Ive seen skid loaders get stuck in the tiniest amount of sand. Also it has an insane turning radius for whatever reason. You can almost turn the wheels 90 degrees.
The transmission: has high and low, and the low could be tremendously low. I'm curious to test its climbing capabilities...
I would say it moves better than any skid loader worth up to 25K
Maybe I'll change my mind once I figure the digging aspect is not as good. The backhoe assembly could be made of japan steel. But it could be georgia late 70s steel. Regardless, the quality is way better bang for the buck...
The steel they are using is way thinner, this machine is absolute tank. I ran it for an hour with no hydraulics etc, and it still leveled the land like a boss
Its got an insane 4x4 system and massive tires, good luck getting it stuck. Ive seen skid loaders get stuck in the tiniest amount of sand. Also it has an insane turning radius for whatever reason. You can almost turn the wheels 90 degrees.
The transmission: has high and low, and the low could be tremendously low. I'm curious to test its climbing capabilities...
I would say it moves better than any skid loader worth up to 25K
Maybe I'll change my mind once I figure the digging aspect is not as good. The backhoe assembly could be made of japan steel. But it could be georgia late 70s steel. Regardless, the quality is way better bang for the buck...
I put digger in quotes because you used the term.
Here in the USA we call them a backhoe. The english and it's colonies like Australia have called them 'diggers'. Maybe other countries too. I don't know.
No offense intended or desired. It's just a term that I never use, therefore the quotes because you the OP used it.
Here in the USA we call them a backhoe. The english and it's colonies like Australia have called them 'diggers'. Maybe other countries too. I don't know.
No offense intended or desired. It's just a term that I never use, therefore the quotes because you the OP used it.
In the ad, thats just the machine, without the backhoe or the bucket. Those added all together would be 10K. And thats for a machine with 1500 hours and many problems.
My situation: If I spend 4K to fix a 40 year old tractor, now I have tractor, with a reliable engine, with a bucket and a backhoe, functional
That setup is worth tremendous money for those that need it...
Find me a functional backhoe for less than 15K...
Yes I understand, I have heard that the backhoe capabilities on this setup are not ideal because (i'm guessing):
There is a separate seat on the back, and you would have get up and move to the other seat to go from moving machine/digging
But, I did also assume that it would not be that good at leveling land, but that turned out to be incorrect
From my understanding, in this quote you are saying:
"history tells us that the prices of functional backhoes will rise"
But you are also telling me to part it out and purchase a whole different machine
Dont these two statements conflict?
Meaning, why would I "part this out" and get nothing for it, and then spend 20K on a functional backhoe that will need another 5K in maintenance?
I think any older Kubota is worth rebuilding if the time, frustration and expense of rebuilding it makes you happy and makes you money in the long run.
Otherwise, buy a new machine if you don't want the hassle and can afford it. It will be easier to use. As for the metal grade used in new equipment, that may be true because they overbuilt equipment sometimes. Sometimes not.
Back in the 1980's I worked a few years in a warehouse while going to college. We had old american made forklifts. The company bought some new Japanese forklifts and everybody loved them. They were faster, lifted faster, steered faster. BUT..... they didn't last. The steel was thinner, the hydralics blew out more often. They went away after a couple years. The american slow monster forklifts kept on going.
Ya gotta make a choice.
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Factory rebuild cost: probably 6-8 thousand. The cost of shipping anything is doubled
Split the tractor: Yes, from what i understand, Put stuff on blocks, while have other heavy stuff on wheels, and then they separate
At this moment, I dont have any hard ground to have stuff roll. I'll level some land with the smaller tractor, and do a dry pour concrete job
That would give me that area to work on her in a less dirty environment