L295DT loader restore, advice needed, pictures

[TheOldHokie]

https://www.amazon.com/ChillWaves-Fitting-Coupling-Female-Adapter/dp/B0B74ZK1JJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=3%2F8%2Bnpt&qid=1687277423&sr=8-4&th=1

Here's a 3/8 NPT on amazon

Is it possible to drill 3/4'' into the cylinder, get this one in the hole, then weld it shut, and it would be reliable?

Geometry aside thats brass. Not weldable and not suitable for hydraulic systems.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

https://www.amazon.com/ChillWaves-Fitting-Coupling-Female-Adapter/dp/B0B74ZK1JJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=3%2F8%2Bnpt&qid=1687277423&sr=8-4&th=1

Here's a 3/8 NPT on amazon

Is it possible to drill 3/4'' into the cylinder, get this one in the hole, then weld it shut, and it would be reliable?

If you are dead set on this think more along these lines.

6404-06-04 | #6 SAE/ORB Female x 1/4" NPTF Male

Check out the deal on 6404-06-04 | #6 SAE/ORB Female x 1/4" NPTF Male at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

Dan

 

[joesmith123]

Geometry aside thats brass. Not weldable and not suitable for hydraulic systems.

Dan

I don’t know what I would do without y’all’s advice

I ended going to hydraulic shop, and they said the same:

change all the lines and use jic 8 fittings

each hard line is 7-8 feet, with 3 fittings attached to it

where I’m at now: build all new lines out of jic 8, emulate the factory lines and place fittings in same locations

later: get proper hoses and adapt to the joystick and to the factory cylinder inputs of 3/8 npt

 

[joesmith123]

If you are dead set on this think more along these lines.

6404-06-04 | #6 SAE/ORB Female x 1/4" NPTF Male

Check out the deal on 6404-06-04 | #6 SAE/ORB Female x 1/4" NPTF Male at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

Dan

Ok yes, I am looking at this fitting

it goes from 3/8 to 1/4 npt

I don’t think that’s the route I’ll be taking

it’s gonna be cheaper and easier to do the jic 8 lines, then get adapters to plug into the 3/8 npt thread on the cylinders

If you can somehow help me gather all the parts and order them all at once, I’ll send you $ electronically

-32 feet of jic 8 line
-Each line has: one straight adapter, one tee, and one 90 adapter, totaling 12 adapters
-tool to bend/flare the lines to make them tight

 

[joesmith123]

Also if you can somehow link a proper fitting that will go into the ones I cut off (pictured)

I’m guessing it would be jic 8 threaded on one side, then smooth on the other side where it welded into the cylinder

then I’ll drill them out, and weld in those new fittings

 

[TheOldHokie]

Also if you can somehow link a proper fitting that will go into the ones I cut off (pictured)

I’m guessing it would be jic 8 threaded on one side, then smooth on the other side where it welded into the cylinder

then I’ll drill them out, and weld in those new fittings

You missed my point. NPT ports suck so if you are goung.to try and salvage the cylinder get rid of them.

Cut that old munged uo crap off all the way back to the cylinder barrel and grind the OD of the barrel smooth. Use the fitting I linked or something similar as a bung. The male NPT end is just a sacrificial pilot to go in the hole in the cylinder and help get everything lined up .

Weld rather than screw the male NPT stem into the hole in the cylinder. Cut the stem shorter or turn/grind it down as needed. When done you now have a cylinder with femalev SAE-6 ports.

If that geometry is too small for the holes in the cylinder use 3/8" male NPT X female SAE-6

Dan

 

[joesmith123]

You missed my point. NPT ports suck so if you are goung.to try and salvage the cylinder get rid of them.

Cut that old munged uo crap off all the way back to the cylinder barrel and grind the OD of the barrel smooth. Use the fitting I linked or something similar as a bung. The male NPT end is just a sacrificial pilot to go in the hole in the cylinder and help get everything lined up .

Weld rather than screw the male NPT stem into the hole in the cylinder. Cut the stem shorter or turn/grind it down as needed. When done you now have a cylinder with femalev SAE-6 ports.

If that geometry is too small for the holes in the cylinder use 3/8" male NPT X female SAE-6

Dan

Yes, I will keep reading this post until I understand, I think I get what you’re saying

late last night, almost got the loader on the tractor (pictured)

 

[joesmith123]

Cut that old munged uo crap off all the way back to the cylinder barrel and grind the OD of the barrel smooth. Use the fitting I linked or something similar as a bung.

When done you now have a cylinder with femalev SAE-6 ports.

In the picture, I marked where you are telling to grind. Basically I am grinding the entire welded metal adapter on the cylinder?

6801-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x #8 SAE/ORB Male 90°

Check out the deal on 6801-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x #8 SAE/ORB Male 90° at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

Instead of the SAE 6, how about I get something with an output of 1/2 Jic 8 male? I would weld the SAE male threaded side into the cylinder head?

I will have to weld these here. What welding setup do you recommend that I can use to do this task?

 

[joesmith123]

Ordered these from hose and fittings.com

Do I need to flare them or are these the ones that are flareless?

What tools do you recommend for cutting the lines and bending the lines?

Last two pictures: I placed the JIC 8 fitting next to the seized on fitting

The plan: drill a hole big enough to fit the threaded end, then weld it shut

How do you recommend that I can do this? What tool do I need?

Thanks in advance

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ordered these from hose and fittings.com

Do I need to flare them or are these the ones that are flareless?

What tools do you recommend for cutting the lines and bending the lines?

Last two pictures: I placed the JIC 8 fitting next to the seized on fitting

The plan: drill a hole big enough to fit the threaded end, then weld it shut

How do you recommend that I can do this? What tool do I need?

Thanks in advance

Looks like flareless converta-flare sleeves and nuts.

Dan

 

[joesmith123]

Looks like flareless converta-flare sleeves and nuts.

Dan

Yes I was rereading your earlier post and it looked similar to what you described

 

[Russell King]

What tools do you recommend for cutting the lines and bending the lines?

Last two pictures: I placed the JIC 8 fitting next to the seized on fitting

The plan: drill a hole big enough to fit the threaded end, then weld it shut

How do you recommend that I can do this? What tool do I need?

You can buy tubing benders like this

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-38033-Heavy-Duty-Instrument-Degrees/dp/B00A336RP6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=swagelok+tube+bender&qid=1688605511&sr=8-3

You need to be sure it can bend the tube you are using. In the older days they sold spring things to use to bend copper tube but not sure if steel can be done by hand. Search tube bender and see various machines that are available. You may also find a local vendor of tubing that would be able to bend tube to match what you removed. They would want to sell you the tubing and maybe charge you to bend it.

The recommendation on the cylinders is to remove anything that is currently welded to the cylinders for a tube connection and start from scratch (there will be a hole in the cylinder wall. The suggestion is to use a straight fitting with NPT thread that is about the size of the hole in the cylinder wall and cut the length of the NPT side to a length that will not extend through the wall thickness. Put in the hole and then weld it onto the cylinder wall.

The external connection style is up to you but the suggestion was to avoid NPTF since NPTF connections are difficult to make and JIC (female 37 degree cone) hose ends are easier to use to connect the hose to a male JIC 37 degree connection point. There are a lot of female port thread types that seal better and easier than NPTF.

For instance the top and tilt cylinders that I recently purchased have JIC female ports ( which are also called SAE ports). There are straight, and 90 degree swivel fittings that are screwed into the port and seal with a o-ring that have a male JIC cone on the other end of the fitting.

At least that’s what I understand from the suggestion.

 

[joesmith123]

Put in the hole and then weld it onto the cylinder wall.

The external connection style is up to you but the suggestion was to avoid NPTF since NPTF connections are difficult to make and JIC (female 37 degree cone) hose ends are easier to use to connect the hose to a male JIC 37 degree connection point. There are a lot of female port thread types that seal better and easier than NPTF.

Yes I understand,

In the picture, the fitting in my hand, is a jic-8 union, the exact one I want to weld onto that area

I do not have grid power, how can I complete this task? What is the equipment that is required?

What is a basic setup, where one can do basic welding and solve issues like the one I am having, without grid power?

 

[Russell King]

You can probably rent a welder that is run off of fuel if you intend to weld it yourself.

I would take it to a professional welding shop or hire a welder that has a truck mounted welder that will drive to your property.

Since you are “from earth” I can’t make more specific recommendations.

 

[joesmith123]

Here's a video of me working with jic fittings

If I screw on that nut, isn't it supposed to tighten onto the steel tube?

Looking at it closely, I cannot see how it would tighten onto the steel tube

Unless, this is a setup that would need a "flare"

Does anyone know?

This hydraulic setup was purchased from hoseandfittings.com, and I do have the SKU's

Edit: not videoed, I did try to tighten the nut tremendously, thinking it would bend the sleeve, and crunch onto the steel tube, making a seal, it did not work

 

[TheOldHokie]

Here's a video of me working with jic fittings

If I screw on that nut, isn't it supposed to tighten onto the steel tube?

Looking at it closely, I cannot see how it would tighten onto the steel tube

Unless, this is a setup that would need a "flare"

Does anyone know?

This hydraulic setup was purchased from hoseandfittings.com, and I do have the SKU's

Edit: not videoed, I did try to tighten the nut tremendously, thinking it would bend the sleeve, and crunch onto the steel tube, making a seal, it did not work

That appears to be a standard JIC flare nut and sleeve. The tube has to be flared using a 37 degree JIC flaring tool to use those nuts and sleeves.

To create a flareless connection using a JIC body with nuts and sleeves like you are trying to do requires a flareless type JIC nut and sleeve. They were invented by AeroQuip who marketed them as VersilFlare fittings. They are also commonly sold as Convert-a-Flare fittings. Hose and fittings sells them in the same section as standard flare nuts and sleeves. They are reliable and easy to assemble but you need to read and carefully follow the AeroQuip assembly instructions attached below.

Hose and Fittings.com

shop.hoseandfittings.com

Hose and Fittings.com

shop.hoseandfittings.com

Dan

 

[joesmith123]

That appears to be a standard JIC flare nut and sleeve. The tube has to be flared using a 37 degree JIC flaring tool to use those nuts and sleeves.

To create a flareless connection using a JIC body with nuts and sleeves like you are trying to do requires a flareless type JIC nut and sleeve. They were invented by AeroQuip who marketed them as VersilFlare fittings. They are also commonly sold as Convert-a-Flare fittings. Hose and fittings sells them in the same section as standard flare nuts and sleeves. They are reliable and easy to assemble but you need to read and carefully follow the AeroQuip assembly instructions attached below.

Hose and Fittings.com

shop.hoseandfittings.com

Hose and Fittings.com

shop.hoseandfittings.com

Dan

yes, I will look for the 37° flaring tool for half inch jic line on Amazon,

you’re the man

 

[Jasonized]

Well… Stay away from brass fittings. The metal is simply not strong enough, they do not have reasonable pressure limits.

You could bore out the old fittings with a larger size, tap, then put in a reducing fitting.
then go back to standard fittings. Unless you need to repair rusted out metal around the hole, that wouldn’t need welding.

As for welding…. I suppose you could rent a rig for off-grid..

 

[TheOldHokie]

yes, I will look for the 37° flaring tool for half inch jic line on Amazon,

you’re the man

A JIC flsring tool is not low dollar - expect to spend $150 for a decent tool.
This is not like brake lines. You are dealing with heavier wall and larger diameter steel tube. Unless you are planning on doing this in a volume basis VersilFlsre is more cost effective.

Ridgid Flaring Tool 377, 3/16 In to 3/4 In 377 | Zoro

Order Ridgid Flaring Tool 377, 3/16 In to 3/4 In, 377 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

Dan

 

[joesmith123]

Well… Stay away from brass fittings. The metal is simply not strong enough, they do not have reasonable pressure limits.

You could bore out the old fittings with a larger size, tap, then put in a reducing fitting.
then go back to standard fittings. Unless you need to repair rusted out metal around the hole, that wouldn’t need welding.

As for welding…. I suppose you could rent a rig for off-grid..

In this picture is the exact fitting I will be using, its steel

"Then put in a reducer fitting"

I'm gonna use what you're telling me when I get the chance to work on it again

"rent a rig for off grid"

Yes, but I others have said something about "brazing silver"

Would I be able to do this for this application?