2502 (later turbo) vs 3902

[OrangeGee]

Newbie here, and to tractors in general. First time buyer. Appreciate any/all advice.

I've got 5acres in Silver Spring MD, half is open field/lawn, half is wooded. Pretty wild/unkempt/unmaintained. To me, the whole place is a blank slate, but I'll mostly work with the natural boundaries of woods and not do any extensive tree clearing (if that changes, I'll rent a track loader).

My goals/tasks:
To develop the unwooded area into a hobby food forest with some camping and glamping (yurts, domes, yomes), reduce lawn with scaped areas, rain gardens. Build and maintain lit pathways through the woods, with tree house or three, maybe glamping grade if the yurts work out well. Build and maintain up to 1000ft of gravel driveway. I also process some of my own firewood for hobby heating, I keep a 4 cord stack and go through 1-2 cord per year.

Lots of the upfront work will be: clearing and digging out brush, stacking berms, grading and building driveway, planting fruit and nut trees, running power and water, building pathways through woods, establishing food/scaped areas, building new walking path to patio, grading plots for yurt decks.

My Take:
I currently have a Deere x540 grass tractor for lawn for now. I've been up and down this ladder of sizing BX23S (but then quickly didn't revisit), B2601, L2502, L3902. Arrived at probably an L TLB (backhoe will remain on most of time), plus forks, plane or blade, maybe grapple if forks don't do it for me. Given the tasks at hand, and my taste for a Takeuchi TL12R2 that my friend left here for a month, I think L series is appropriate. I'm torn between the L2502 and doing a turbo for it later in a year or two, vs just getting the 3902 and settling with clean factory power. The 2502 tuning path is uncharted since it's new, what if it doesn't have any fuel pump shims or it's next to impossible to alter. I could get by with 25hp probably.

If all my goals/projects were done, the B2601 TLB+MMM would probably be a great fit for maintaining my vision, and the allure of a compact all in one machine I can enjoy for all things is strong. But thinking I would greatly benefit from a bigger tractor frame and backhoe to build all this out. I wish the B2601 would work. LX seems expensive for the amount of tractor I get. Perhaps I could rent my way out of an L and get the B2601.

 

[Fordtech86]

Keep the Deere to mow, L2502 with hoe and loader. What would you be doing PTO wise where you would benefit from turbo on 2502 or a 3902? You won’t gain anything hydraulically (BH/ loader work) with the higher HP between the 2 L models

also enjoy the simplicity of the 2502 over the common rail 3902

 

[GrizBota]

Sounds like you’re in the right size range. If you want more than 25 Hp w/o regen emissions, look at a used 30 or 40 series Grand L. Lots of options including HST and cab. And those can have a mid PTO installed to run a MMM once you have the place whipped into shape.

 

[OrangeGee]

Thanks for the feedback. My place does need to be whipped into shape! My only hesitation with the L2502 vs L3902 is:

1. An engine that's not tuned "correctly or cleanly" from factory irks me, even if I don't ending up needing the extra oomph. A turbo would be excessive but it would be fun, later,,, But the fuel and timing I'd feel compelled to do at some point. I've read about excessive soot and variability of "tune" on the 2501s. I don't have any real world experience so maybe this is all fine and it would be fine.
2. I've gathered the L2501s TLB feel sluggish with all the weight. I don't have any major hills so that helps. I don't think I'll be doing much intense PTO+hills at same time etc, so that's where 25hp is probably fine.
3. The cleanliness of the exhaust. I'll be spending a fair amount of hours on this thing and was thinking health wise the cleaner engine would be better. I am possibly overthinking.
4. How unreliable and complex is the DPF? I know there's a bit of stigma about it but maybe it's not so bad. I probably need to do more research in this area.

I should check used. I do tend to buy things new and then take care of it myself and run it into the ground. I do like the brake placement on the new 2502 so I can get tighter turns if I need.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Thanks for the feedback. My place does need to be whipped into shape! My only hesitation with the L2502 vs L3902 is:

1. An engine that's not tuned "correctly or cleanly" from factory irks me, even if I don't ending up needing the extra oomph. A turbo would be excessive but it would be fun, later,,, But the fuel and timing I'd feel compelled to do at some point. I've read about excessive soot and variability of "tune" on the 2501s. I don't have any real world experience so maybe this is all fine and it would be fine.
2. I've gathered the L2501s TLB feel sluggish with all the weight. I don't have any major hills so that helps. I don't think I'll be doing much intense PTO+hills at same time etc, so that's where 25hp is probably fine.
3. The cleanliness of the exhaust. I'll be spending a fair amount of hours on this thing and was thinking health wise the cleaner engine would be better. I am possibly overthinking.
4. How unreliable and complex is the DPF? I know there's a bit of stigma about it but maybe it's not so bad. I probably need to do more research in this area.

I should check used. I do tend to buy things new and then take care of it myself and run it into the ground. I do like the brake placement on the new 2502 so I can get tighter turns if I need.

When I read your first post, I was thinking B26. Or L47, but $$$$. But, if you're considering used, maybe a B26 isn't unreasonable. Or even L35/39 if you find one reasonably priced.

The B26 is still made, HST, no DPF and a tough little machine - it's in the construction category. The loader isn't removable but you can get SSQA and the BH is removable for 3PH use.

It's hard for me to fathom 5 acres that a B or L25xx couldn't handle.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Thanks for the feedback. My place does need to be whipped into shape! My only hesitation with the L2502 vs L3902 is:

1. An engine that's not tuned "correctly or cleanly" from factory irks me, even if I don't ending up needing the extra oomph. A turbo would be excessive but it would be fun, later,,, But the fuel and timing I'd feel compelled to do at some point. I've read about excessive soot and variability of "tune" on the 2501s. I don't have any real world experience so maybe this is all fine and it would be fine.
2. I've gathered the L2501s TLB feel sluggish with all the weight. I don't have any major hills so that helps. I don't think I'll be doing much intense PTO+hills at same time etc, so that's where 25hp is probably fine.
3. The cleanliness of the exhaust. I'll be spending a fair amount of hours on this thing and was thinking health wise the cleaner engine would be better. I am possibly overthinking.
4. How unreliable and complex is the DPF? I know there's a bit of stigma about it but maybe it's not so bad. I probably need to do more research in this area.

I should check used. I do tend to buy things new and then take care of it myself and run it into the ground. I do like the brake placement on the new 2502 so I can get tighter turns if I need.

I have 5 acres in Northern Mi.......about 1 Acre is house/pole barn/grass, the rest is wooded. No hills, pretty flat.

I think my 2501 TLB is perfect. I have not found anything I can't do, or needed the "extra HP" for.


I am a huge BH fanboy...I also love my fork and grapple.

The "no emissions" thing for me was a huge deciding factor too. I like my engines simple and reliable.

So I can work on them if needed, but don't need to very often.



My question for you would be;


I'm pretty sure the loader capacity is the same on a 25 VS. 39, So what do you need the extra HP for? Like bigger rotary cutter or something?

 

[OrangeGee]

I was reading/watching the 2501TLB feels sluggish just driving around with TLB so thought the extra power helps with that. Has that not been your experience? Initially, I was dissuaded from the BH with the mini-ex rental logic, but I'm realistically not going to have all my digging projects perfectly planned and lined up so I think I'll appreciate having the BH on tap, plus good ballast yeah?

The B26 has me schooled - I didn't know that was still made. I need to read up on how that compares in this line up. The loader would never come off unless it was for the sake of access.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Newbie here, and to tractors in general. First time buyer. Appreciate any/all advice.

I've got 5acres in Silver Spring MD, half is open field/lawn, half is wooded. Pretty wild/unkempt/unmaintained. To me, the whole place is a blank slate, but I'll mostly work with the natural boundaries of woods and not do any extensive tree clearing (if that changes, I'll rent a track loader).

My goals/tasks:
To develop the unwooded area into a hobby food forest with some camping and glamping (yurts, domes, yomes), reduce lawn with scaped areas, rain gardens. Build and maintain lit pathways through the woods, with tree house or three, maybe glamping grade if the yurts work out well. Build and maintain up to 1000ft of gravel driveway. I also process some of my own firewood for hobby heating, I keep a 4 cord stack and go through 1-2 cord per year.

Lots of the upfront work will be: clearing and digging out brush, stacking berms, grading and building driveway, planting fruit and nut trees, running power and water, building pathways through woods, establishing food/scaped areas, building new walking path to patio, grading plots for yurt decks.

My Take:
I currently have a Deere x540 grass tractor for lawn for now. I've been up and down this ladder of sizing BX23S (but then quickly didn't revisit), B2601, L2502, L3902. Arrived at probably an L TLB (backhoe will remain on most of time), plus forks, plane or blade, maybe grapple if forks don't do it for me. Given the tasks at hand, and my taste for a Takeuchi TL12R2 that my friend left here for a month, I think L series is appropriate. I'm torn between the L2502 and doing a turbo for it later in a year or two, vs just getting the 3902 and settling with clean factory power. The 2502 tuning path is uncharted since it's new, what if it doesn't have any fuel pump shims or it's next to impossible to alter. I could get by with 25hp probably.

If all my goals/projects were done, the B2601 TLB+MMM would probably be a great fit for maintaining my vision, and the allure of a compact all in one machine I can enjoy for all things is strong. But thinking I would greatly benefit from a bigger tractor frame and backhoe to build all this out. I wish the B2601 would work. LX seems expensive for the amount of tractor I get. Perhaps I could rent my way out of an L and get the B2601.

I am trying to imagine where in SS one would find 5 acres like that.

I have similar up by Frederick and an L3901 is not too much tractor. I could use more but not less.

Dan

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I was reading/watching the 2501TLB feels sluggish just driving around with TLB so thought the extra power helps with that. Has that not been your experience? Initially, I was dissuaded from the BH with the mini-ex rental logic, but I'm realistically not going to have all my digging projects perfectly planned and lined up so I think I'll appreciate having the BH on tap, plus good ballast yeah?

The B26 has me schooled - I didn't know that was still made. I need to read up on how that compares in this line up. The loader would never come off unless it was for the sake of access.

I've never had a bigger tractor so I guess it's hard for me to advise, I can only relay my limited experience.


My needs/wants are clearly different than others


I don't feel like its sluggish, but my land is pretty flat.

I also realize/understand how to use the H-M-L settings, and I understand how gearing works and that there is no "magic tractor" that does everything perfectly; There will be compromises.

The BH77 is awesome for ballast and I almost never take it off, but I don't use my box blade every 4 days, so having to remove the BH is not a concern of mine, even though it only takes a few minutes.

I would never have a tractor without a BH, unless I owned a mini-ex. I have found so many uses for it, it's stupid.....Here is the rental guy, Pauly, when you need these things done.....

(Think "Goodfellas" when you read this next part, it will make sense). VIDEO CLIP HERE


Need an engine lifted out?..... FU, pay me.

Need a hold dug?.....FU, pay me.

Need a trench dug?....FU, pay me.

Need a deck busted up?.....FU, pay me.

Need a pinata held up?....FU, Pay me

Need some stumps ripped out?...FU, pay me.

Need some large bush's ripped out?.....FU, pay me

Need some concrete lifted up?.....FU, pay me.

LOL...



Edit: I have lived over 50 years without a tractor or BH, but I won't for the next 50!

 

[OrangeGee]

I am trying to imagine where in SS one would find 5 acres like that.

I have similar up by Frederick and an L3901 is not too much tractor. I could use more but not less.

Dan

Yep, we found a remnant of land that wasn't appealing enough to over-develop cause of streams and access. Hoping to turn it into something special.

 

[OrangeGee]

I've never had a bigger tractor so I guess it's hard for me to advise, I can only relay my limited experience.


My needs/wants are clearly different than others


I don't feel like its sluggish, but my land is pretty flat.

I also realize/understand how to use the H-M-L settings, and I understand how gearing works and that there is no "magic tractor" that does everything perfectly; There will be compromises.

The BH77 is awesome for ballast and I almost never take it off, but I don't use my box blade every 4 days, so having to remove the BH is not a concern of mine, even though it only takes a few minutes.

I would never have a tractor without a BH, unless I owned a mini-ex. I have found so many uses for it, it's stupid.....Here is the rental guy, Pauly, when you need these things done.....

(Think "Good Fellas" when you read this next part, it will make sense). VIDEO CLIP HERE


Need an engine lifted out?..... FU, pay me.

Need a hold dug?.....FU, pay me.

Need a trench dug?....FU, pay me.

Need a deck busted up?.....FU, pay me.

Need a pinata held up?....FU, Pay me

Need some stumps ripped out?...FU, pay me.

Need some large bush's ripped out?.....FU, pay me

Need some concrete lifted up?.....FU, pay me.

LOL...



Edit: I have lived over 50 years without a tractor or BH, but I won't for the next 50!

I appreciate how the pinata is in the middle of your list, like it's not the smallest ingredient. I'm gonna add this use case to my list.

I will be looking into the B26s too, maybe used cause they're a bit 'spensive. Don't think I need the roll cage/cab.

 

[PaulL]

Mini ex as well as a tractor?

I feel like a lot of the work you'd do around a property like that would be with the BH off. But that's not a big deal.

If you don't need a mid-PTO, the L is better buying. I do a lot with my B2601, but you sound like you have quite a bit more work in mind than I did. An L isn't much more money but it's a lot more machine.

 

[OrangeGee]

Mini ex as well as a tractor?

I feel like a lot of the work you'd do around a property like that would be with the BH off. But that's not a big deal.

If you don't need a mid-PTO, the L is better buying. I do a lot with my B2601, but you sound like you have quite a bit more work in mind than I did. An L isn't much more money but it's a lot more machine.

Thanks for insight. I really love the concept of a B2601. I was fairly certain I'd end up going that route. I think my only need for a mid PTO would be mowing and not snow removal because we don't get much snow round these parts, and I'll probably cover my mowing elsewhere so lead me to thinking I should opt for more heft and trade the mid-pto for more machine heft of an L.

The B26 vs an L2502 is now my focus. I think that the B's got the compact B form-factor with similar capabilities to an L is intriguing. I will probably favor the machine that is easier to maintain. If anyone's got any insight into a B26 vs an L25xx and what's more reliable for my application, I'd be interested to hear thoughts.

 

[pigdoc]

Love your dream, OrangeGee.

Somewhat off-topic, but here goes:

I would encourage you to survey your property for the presence of "exotic invasives", and familiarize yourself with them. Because, if they are present, and you create a light source for them (by your clearing activities), they *will* come to dominate.

My Bad Plant hitlist is:
1. Oriental bittersweet: climbs trees, chokes them out. Trunks can get as big as your leg.
2. Multiflora rose: European import. Spread by birds.
3. Kudzu: an infrequent problem in Northern States, but very pervasive where you live and on South.
4. Bush Honeysuckle: Like multiflora rose, tends to dominate a landscape, ruining it for any productive use. Spread by birds.
5. Hedge laurel: European import. Not particularly invasive...
6. Japanese barberry: An thorned escapee from the landscaping industry, spread by birds.
7. Angelica and related: Asian plants (often thorned) with compound leaves resembling (native) sumac, VERY invasive.

Bittersweet, rose, kudzu, and Angelica all proliferate by underground rhizomes. Cutting them off or grubbing them out just stimulates their growth (gotta use herbicide, too).

My MO is to cut these off at ground level and immediately paint the stumps with full strength (41%) glyphosate. I use a small (2 oz.) shoe polish dauber.

I live on 12 wooded acres, and have been working on knocking out the exotic invasives for about 4 years now. Another year or two, and I'll be 'done'. [Is it EVER done?] It's amazing to see the native plants coming back - ostrich fern, bracken fern, other ferns, white snakeroot, boneset, milkweed...

Check your State's official list of noxious weeds.

-Paul

 

[jyoutz]

Thanks for the feedback. My place does need to be whipped into shape! My only hesitation with the L2502 vs L3902 is:

1. An engine that's not tuned "correctly or cleanly" from factory irks me, even if I don't ending up needing the extra oomph. A turbo would be excessive but it would be fun, later,,, But the fuel and timing I'd feel compelled to do at some point. I've read about excessive soot and variability of "tune" on the 2501s. I don't have any real world experience so maybe this is all fine and it would be fine.
2. I've gathered the L2501s TLB feel sluggish with all the weight. I don't have any major hills so that helps. I don't think I'll be doing much intense PTO+hills at same time etc, so that's where 25hp is probably fine.
3. The cleanliness of the exhaust. I'll be spending a fair amount of hours on this thing and was thinking health wise the cleaner engine would be better. I am possibly overthinking.
4. How unreliable and complex is the DPF? I know there's a bit of stigma about it but maybe it's not so bad. I probably need to do more research in this area.

I should check used. I do tend to buy things new and then take care of it myself and run it into the ground. I do like the brake placement on the new 2502 so I can get tighter turns if I need.

I owned a pre-emissions tractor for over 20 years. Every time I used it for more than 30 minutes, I had a sinus headache. My newer machine with tier 4 emissions doesn’t cause this headache. Sucking diesel particulates isn’t good for anyone.

 

[OrangeGee]

Love your dream, OrangeGee.

Somewhat off-topic, but here goes:

I would encourage you to survey your property for the presence of "exotic invasives", and familiarize yourself with them. Because, if they are present, and you create a light source for them (by your clearing activities), they *will* come to dominate.

My Bad Plant hitlist is:
1. Oriental bittersweet: climbs trees, chokes them out. Trunks can get as big as your leg.
2. Multiflora rose: European import. Spread by birds.
3. Kudzu: an infrequent problem in Northern States, but very pervasive where you live and on South.
4. Bush Honeysuckle: Like multiflora rose, tends to dominate a landscape, ruining it for any productive use. Spread by birds.
5. Hedge laurel: European import. Not particularly invasive...
6. Japanese barberry: An thorned escapee from the landscaping industry, spread by birds.
7. Angelica and related: Asian plants (often thorned) with compound leaves resembling (native) sumac, VERY invasive.

Bittersweet, rose, kudzu, and Angelica all proliferate by underground rhizomes. Cutting them off or grubbing them out just stimulates their growth (gotta use herbicide, too).

My MO is to cut these off at ground level and immediately paint the stumps with full strength (41%) glyphosate. I use a small (2 oz.) shoe polish dauber.

I live on 12 wooded acres, and have been working on knocking out the exotic invasives for about 4 years now. Another year or two, and I'll be 'done'. [Is it EVER done?] It's amazing to see the native plants coming back - ostrich fern, bracken fern, other ferns, white snakeroot, boneset, milkweed...

Check your State's official list of noxious weeds.

-Paul

Thank you, and yep, you're spot on. Want to bring/allow natives back and pair it with some hospitality/amenities feed the income back into the place. Have confirmed the presence of a few of the species on your hit list. Cleared some thorny wild rose bushes (so I can replace with berries) and in their place a ton of milkweed came up, but also Japanese stiltgrass, so mixed victory on that one. We have a ton of stiltgrass that wants to take over the world. Kudzu may be the blanket I keep seeing in my area (not so much on my property) that I figured was just what natural swamp/jungle things are around here. May not be natural at all,,,

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Love your dream, OrangeGee.

Somewhat off-topic, but here goes:

I would encourage you to survey your property for the presence of "exotic invasives", and familiarize yourself with them. Because, if they are present, and you create a light source for them (by your clearing activities), they *will* come to dominate.

My Bad Plant hitlist is:
1. Oriental bittersweet: climbs trees, chokes them out. Trunks can get as big as your leg.
2. Multiflora rose: European import. Spread by birds.
3. Kudzu: an infrequent problem in Northern States, but very pervasive where you live and on South.
4. Bush Honeysuckle: Like multiflora rose, tends to dominate a landscape, ruining it for any productive use. Spread by birds.
5. Hedge laurel: European import. Not particularly invasive...
6. Japanese barberry: An thorned escapee from the landscaping industry, spread by birds.
7. Angelica and related: Asian plants (often thorned) with compound leaves resembling (native) sumac, VERY invasive.

Bittersweet, rose, kudzu, and Angelica all proliferate by underground rhizomes. Cutting them off or grubbing them out just stimulates their growth (gotta use herbicide, too).

My MO is to cut these off at ground level and immediately paint the stumps with full strength (41%) glyphosate. I use a small (2 oz.) shoe polish dauber.

I live on 12 wooded acres, and have been working on knocking out the exotic invasives for about 4 years now. Another year or two, and I'll be 'done'. [Is it EVER done?] It's amazing to see the native plants coming back - ostrich fern, bracken fern, other ferns, white snakeroot, boneset, milkweed...

Check your State's official list of noxious weeds.

-Paul

8. Privet hedge (ligustrum) - don't know if it's a problem in your area. Spread by birds.

ditto herbicide.

 

[pigdoc]

@PoTreeBoy: Yeah, Privet Hedge is the same as the Hedge Laurel on my list. Lots of names for the same beast. It's benign, easy to contain. I left a couple of clumps to hide my compost pile from the house.

I did not put Japanese stiltgrass on my list. I guess, because I don't really have a problem with it (crossing-fingers, pleading with hex gods). I'm up on a high, rocky slope, and the stiltgrass hasn't made it up here yet. I would bet that my bees are feeding on its nectar though. Stiltgrass bloom is a stimulant to the honey flow!

[So, not all traits of exotics are noxious. If just, they weren't so invasive!]

To that end, I have not found an effective way to eradicate stiltgrass. Tried strategic cutting, poison, and both. Still, it shoots in the spring...

As soon as it stops raining here, I'm going to go out and girdle the Ailanthus tree up the slope. It's the last of two I discovered on the property. AKA Tree of Heaven, it attracts lanternfly. I live 10 miles from the lanternfly epicenter.

-Paul

 

[PaulL]

Thanks for insight. I really love the concept of a B2601. I was fairly certain I'd end up going that route. I think my only need for a mid PTO would be mowing and not snow removal because we don't get much snow round these parts, and I'll probably cover my mowing elsewhere so lead me to thinking I should opt for more heft and trade the mid-pto for more machine heft of an L.

The B26 vs an L2502 is now my focus. I think that the B's got the compact B form-factor with similar capabilities to an L is intriguing. I will probably favor the machine that is easier to maintain. If anyone's got any insight into a B26 vs an L25xx and what's more reliable for my application, I'd be interested to hear thoughts.

I mow a lot with my B2601, and I treat the MMM pretty mean - I've used it for a lot of land clearing. It doesn't seem to mind, even mowing reasonably thick scrub. Probably up to half inch. I get off and cut anything bigger than that. It also eats the dirt a fair bit, and other than needing to sharpen the blades a lot, it hasn't been an issue. The more I mow an area the flatter it gets, and eventually it's like lawn.

The B26 is a different machine than the B2601. It's heavier duty and I think has more hydraulic flow. It also doesn't have a removable loader - and I wouldn't personally mow with a loader on. You can put a 3ph mower on a B26, so giving up the MMM doesn't mean you can't mow, it's just different.

So, comparing an L to the B26:

• The L2502 has the same power, but a lot more torque - the engine is seriously detuned
• The L2502 is more tractor, it's more tractor to move (so your power is getting stretched further), but it'll lift and move bigger implements and get more work done in the same time, despite being only the same HP
• The loader comes off the L, so if you have tasks you'd do without a loader that's important. I try to never mow with the loader on. When you have landscaping and buildings (which you will) you tend to find that it's hard to watch the front and the back of the machine at the same time - so one or the other is hitting things. And the loader puts a lot of weight on the front wheels (with a 3ph mower that'd be balanced out)
• The L will lift quite a bit more on the loader, and a lot more on the 3ph
• The B2601 with backhoe (can't recall the model) is quite limited - I think there are limitations on swing angle and digging depth. I believe but am not certain that the B26 comes with a different BH that is more capable. I think the BH on the L is significantly more capable again, again can't recall the number. Not just depth and power, but also range of motion, which can be quite important in many situations
• I've spent time on a small Takeuchi (Dad's) and rented a small Kubota mini-ex when I did a water tank replacement. It's just not the same thing at all. If you have genuine excavator tasks a mini-ex is well worth it. Simple things like repositioning as you dig a trench are a pain on a TLB, and so easy on a mini-ex
• But if you just have smaller jobs here and there, then a mini-ex is a pain - either you have to go rent it, or you have to pay for something you're not using much. In that world the lower efficiency of a TLB is made up for in money and convenience

I did this table a while back on the various Kubota models around 26HP. The names of some of them have changed, but the machines are mostly the same. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx-vs-b01-vs-b50.36719/

Also remember that tractors hold their value really well. A B26 would resell in a flash. It's hard to make a wrong decision - either model will do the job, and if you eventually decide you picked wrong, it's not particularly expensive (usually) to change.

My rule of thumb is that if you're torn between a small one and a big one, buy the big one. You're unlikely to ever sit in the seat of an L thinking "I wish I'd bought a B". There's a good chance you might sit in the seat of a B thinking "I wish I'd bought an L." Managing the downside is a valid way to make purchasing decisions.

 

[ajschnitzelbank]

I mow a lot with my B2601, and I treat the MMM pretty mean - I've used it for a lot of land clearing. It doesn't seem to mind, even mowing reasonably think scrub. Probably up to half inch. I get off and cut anything bigger than that. It also eats the dirt a fair bit, and other than needing to sharpen the blades a lot, it hasn't been an issue. The more I mow an area the flatter it gets, and eventually it's like lawn.

The B26 is a different machine than the B2601. It's heavier duty and I think has more hydraulic flow. It also doesn't have a removable loader - and I wouldn't personally mow with a loader on. You can put a 3ph mower on a B26, so giving up the MMM doesn't mean you can't mow, it's just different.

So, comparing an L to the B26:

• The L2502 has the same power, but a lot more torque - the engine is seriously detuned
• The L2502 is more tractor, it's more tractor to move (so your power is getting stretched further), but it'll lift and move bigger implements and get more work done in the same time, despite being only the same HP
• The loader comes off the L, so if you have tasks you'd do without a loader that's important. I try to never mow with the loader on. When you have landscaping and buildings (which you will) you tend to find that it's hard to watch the front and the back of the machine at the same time - so one or the other is hitting things. And the loader puts a lot of weight on the front wheels (with a 3ph mower that'd be balanced out)
• The L will lift quite a bit more on the loader, and a lot more on the 3ph
• The B2601 with backhoe (can't recall the model) is quite limited - I think there are limitations on swing angle and digging depth. I believe but am not certain that the B26 comes with a different BH that is more capable. I think the BH on the L is significantly more capable again, again can't recall the number. Not just depth and power, but also range of motion, which can be quite important in many situations
• I've spent time on a small Takeuchi (Dad's) and rented a small Kubota mini-ex when I did a water tank replacement. It's just not the same thing at all. If you have genuine excavator tasks a mini-ex is well worth it. Simple things like repositioning as you dig a trench are a pain on a TLB, and so easy on a mini-ex
• But if you just have smaller jobs here and there, then a mini-ex is a pain - either you have to go rent it, or you have to pay for something you're not using much. In that world the lower efficiency of a TLB is made up for in money and convenience

I did this table a while back on the various Kubota models around 26HP. The names of some of them have changed, but the machines are mostly the same. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx-vs-b01-vs-b50.36719/

Also remember that tractors hold their value really well. A B26 would resell in a flash. It's hard to make a wrong decision - either model will do the job, and if you eventually decide you picked wrong, it's not particularly expensive (usually) to change.

My rule of thumb is that if you're torn between a small one and a big one, buy the big one. You're unlikely to ever sit in the seat of an L thinking "I wish I'd bought a B". There's a good chance you might sit in the seat of a B thinking "I wish I'd bought an L." Managing the downside is a valid way to make purchasing decisions.

He’s considering the B26, which is different than the B2601.