bx1500 stalls when put into gear, $25 reward for solution

[PaulL]

If you have an old unit for parts, then that is quite an advantage.

To me, if the HST was worn or needed work it'd still creep, particularly with the wheels off the ground, it just wouldn't have a lot of drive. So my money is still on something disconnected somewhere that means it's not going into gear. Particularly when the 3pt is lifting (so it's pumping hydraulic fluid), and the PTO is running (so the transmission is getting drive).

I don't know what behaviour you should expect to see if your range selector is still in neutral/otherwise broken, but the HST portion was still functional. Range selectors are usually finicky - there's no synchro and they're straight cut gears, so when the tractor is stationary they usually won't engage - you have to go back and forth a bit. Did it give you any feel that it was difficult to engage - the gears weren't quite aligned? My theory here is that if it was easy to move the range selector, that probably means it wasn't actually going into gear. Have you tried both hi and lo on the range selector? (just in case one is working and one not, for whatever reason).

 

[joesmith123]

If you have an old unit for parts, then that is quite an advantage.

To me, if the HST was worn or needed work it'd still creep, particularly with the wheels off the ground, it just wouldn't have a lot of drive. So my money is still on something disconnected somewhere that means it's not going into gear. Particularly when the 3pt is lifting (so it's pumping hydraulic fluid), and the PTO is running (so the transmission is getting drive).

I don't know what behaviour you should expect to see if your range selector is still in neutral/otherwise broken, but the HST portion was still functional. Range selectors are usually finicky - there's no synchro and they're straight cut gears, so when the tractor is stationary they usually won't engage - you have to go back and forth a bit. Did it give you any feel that it was difficult to engage - the gears weren't quite aligned? My theory here is that if it was easy to move the range selector, that probably means it wasn't actually going into gear. Have you tried both hi and lo on the range selector? (just in case one is working and one not, for whatever reason).

You do make some good points that are convincing, especially since the rear pto and the 3ph are functioning

"Go back and forth a bit" - yes, when engaging it into gear, sometimes i would rock the tractor and forth to help it pop into gear. It does feel like it is getting into gear, i can confirm

Not difficult to engage, gears feel perfect

Yes, hi and lo have been tried

One thing I might try: There is another safety sensor on the gear lever to not let it start if in gear
I might also jump those two connections

My thinking: If its rolling down a hill and the operates falls off, it wants to shut the engine and lock the wheels

 

[whitetiger]

One worry I had while installing HST: If I put too much gasket maker, it might block the holes, messing with the route of where the HST sends fluids...

There should not be any gasket maker used to install the hydrostat, it is all o-ring seals.
There also is a steel collar that is often left out during a hydrostat exchange which will not force the hydro to pressurize the oil and send it to the drive motor. The oil just dumps into the trans-axle at very low pressure. The collar is part number 060.
https://shop.kubotausa.com/oemparts/a/kub/60a30a1987a866105438ba53/d01000-hst

 

[whitetiger]

My thinking: If its rolling down a hill and the operates falls off, it wants to shut the engine and lock the wheels

Depending on the circumstance, the engine may shut off but there is nothing to apply the brake.

 

[joesmith123]

There should not be any gasket maker used to install the hydrostat, it is all o-ring seals.
There also is a steel collar that is often left out during a hydrostat exchange which will not force the hydro to pressurize the oil and send it to the drive motor. The oil just dumps into the trans-axle at very low pressure. The collar is part number 060.
https://shop.kubotausa.com/oemparts/a/kub/60a30a1987a866105438ba53/d01000-hst

Ok i looked at the diagram, you might have solved it

I can confirm that the collar was not installed

Ok I will order the parts, what I will get: Collar 060, the 4 O rings (70-100)

 

[joesmith123]

There should not be any gasket maker used to install the hydrostat, it is all o-ring seals.
There also is a steel collar that is often left out during a hydrostat exchange which will not force the hydro to pressurize the oil and send it to the drive motor. The oil just dumps into the trans-axle at very low pressure. The collar is part number 060.
https://shop.kubotausa.com/oemparts/a/kub/60a30a1987a866105438ba53/d01000-hst

With the collar missing, it will still operate the rear PTO and lift the 3ph but not spin the rear wheels? Maybe those pathways are not associated with the collar pathway...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The PTO drive is direct, it's run off the top shaft.

The other thing to check when you pull it apart is that this collar (#270) is in place otherwise you have no connection to the drive.
The PTO is driven off of a similar collar (#260) and we know that one is in place because the PTO spins.

 

[whitetiger]

With the collar missing, it will still operate the rear PTO and lift the 3ph but not spin the rear wheels? Maybe those pathways are not associated with the collar pathway...

The PTO is separated from the hydro before it gets to the collar and the 3-point oil comes from the priority valve as do the steering, the loader, and rear remotes if equipped.

 

[joesmith123]

The PTO drive is direct, it's run off the top shaft.

The other thing to check when you pull it apart is that this collar (#270) is in place otherwise you have no connection to the drive.
The PTO is driven off of a similar collar (#260) and we know that one is in place because the PTO spins.
View attachment 100504

Yes I am understanding:
260/270 is referring to collars inside the HST
You are referring to different part than whitetiger, he is talking about a collar that goes on the outside of the HST in between the HST and the transmission
Yes, I will check both. First I'll try the collar on the outside, then the collars on the inside if that fails

 

[whitetiger]

The other thing to check when you pull it apart is that this collar (#270) is in place otherwise you have no connection to the drive.

That coupler is very easy to check, put the tractor in 2-wheel drive, range lever in either Hi or Low, and brake off. Jack up either of the rear tires leaving the other touching the ground and try to turn the tire in either direction by hand. If the coupler is missing the tire will spin without much effort. If the coupler is engaged, you will have to work pretty hard to turn it.

 

[joesmith123]

The PTO is separated from the hydro before it gets to the collar and the 3-point oil comes from the priority valve as do the steering, the loader, and rear remotes if equipped.

Woah yes, I have been wondering how the loader was working

 

[joesmith123]

That coupler is very easy to check, put the tractor in 2-wheel drive, range lever in either Hi or Low, and brake off. Jack up either of the rear tires leaving the other touching the ground and try to turn the tire in either direction by hand. If the coupler is missing the tire will spin without much effort. If the coupler is engaged, you will have to work pretty hard to turn it.

From what I remember, it was not easy to turn one wheel without the other

 

[PaulL]

Depending on the circumstance, the engine may shut off but there is nothing to apply the brake.

Picking up on this. The safety switches only stop the engine and/or stop the engine from starting. They're just electrical cutouts, they can't affect anything mechanical/hydraulic such as the transmission. If you were tripping a safety switch somehow your engine would cut out. It's not, so it's unlikely to be a safety switch. It looks like the more knowledgable folks have weighed in with the correct answers though.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

sigh... what's in a name ?...
to me 'collar' is a heavy duty spacer....a gap filling device.....,maybe or not 'fixed' to a shaft...
to Kubota , it's the internally splined connector that passes power from one thing to another....

it NOW makes sense that either that #270 is missing, or maybe #060 'oil plug donut' ?

I for one , will love to hear WHAT caused the 'no drive' problem........!!!

 

[joesmith123]

sigh... what's in a name ?...
to me 'collar' is a heavy duty spacer....a gap filling device.....,maybe or not 'fixed' to a shaft...
to Kubota , it's the internally splined connector that passes power from one thing to another....

it NOW makes sense that either that #270 is missing, or maybe #060 'oil plug donut' ?

I for one , will love to hear WHAT caused the 'no drive' problem........!!!

I’m excited as well, if it works, I will be $950 into a solid little Kubota loader with around 220 hours

Ive seen them go for 6000-7000 with my setup but way more hours

 

[DustyRusty]

I am holding out my solution until the reward is higher. I will send you a note where to drop the money and don't call the cops. If you do, that tractor will remain as dead as dead can be. I will be the last to let that little tractor down. I have been known to bury other people's mistakes.
Check to see if the rims are spinning inside the tires. This is a common problem with loaded tires with Rim Guard.

 

[joesmith123]

The $40 Japanese collar finally made it
Today we find out if it works

 

[joesmith123]

 

[Russell King]

IT IS ALIVE!

congratulations!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

GREAT NEWS !!!!!
Now, please, before you 'button her up and go cruising the neighbourhood', replace the cooling fan !!
I don't know if K sell the 'fan guard' for yours ,if not, maybe the one for the BX23S will fit ?