Hello ~ In Central IL my zero Turn ZD1211 is in a nice barn no heat. & trickle charger hooked up to the battery. I went to start it to just move it around a bit. Cranked for a bit, then all power went dead. Figured I blew a fuse. I just checked the fuses under the seat and all seem fine. Still now power tho... where should I look next?
ZD1211w/ no electrical power - just disappeared
- Thread starter Safetyman
- Start date
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
You will also have a large fuse within a few inches of the starter, check it. Clean your battery cable ends also.
Thank you. I found this... is this what your talking about? If so... is the whole thing a fuse, or is the fuse in side it?
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Ok I after research I see this is a fuse. Looking at it tho, how can you tell if it' s blown or not. Looks ok to me?
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GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Use a multimeter, set on low ohms and put probes on the fuses lugs.
If it reads 0, fuse is good, if it read same as leads not connected to anything( usually 1---) ,it's bad
If it reads 0, fuse is good, if it read same as leads not connected to anything( usually 1---) ,it's bad
Not to be a smart aleck, but have you confirmed that the battery didn't completely crap out on you?
haha, no offense taken & good point. The battery is a little over a year old and even with a charger on it, no lights/power/nothing when the key is turned. I haven't made it out to replace that fuse yet so it's still dead, but it's winter... other priorities each day. But I'll try to replace this fuse and see if that helps. If not.. I'm out of ideas
Connect a voltmeter between the negative battery post and a good ground on the frame. Then turn on the key, and there should be no voltage reading on the meter. If there is, check your ground cable connection the the battery negative, and to the frame at the other end. If there is, you need to disassemble the cable from both ends and clean and retighten everything.
Hi guys, was this ever resolved? We are having the same exact issue with our 1211. Here's what we've done so far:
1. Load Tested Battery - Good.
2. Disconnected and cleaned the battery cable connections (at battery and at frame for ground, at battery and starter for positive)
3. Checked 50A fuse at starter (with Ohmmeter) - good.
4. Checked all fuses under the seat - good.
5. Checked to ensure continuity at each of the switch positions (on, glow plug, start) with ohmmeter - good.
6. Checked to see if voltage was present at the switch in all positions - good.
Not sure what else to do, looking for some advice on next steps from this awesome community
Thanks,
Andrew
1. Load Tested Battery - Good.
2. Disconnected and cleaned the battery cable connections (at battery and at frame for ground, at battery and starter for positive)
3. Checked 50A fuse at starter (with Ohmmeter) - good.
4. Checked all fuses under the seat - good.
5. Checked to ensure continuity at each of the switch positions (on, glow plug, start) with ohmmeter - good.
6. Checked to see if voltage was present at the switch in all positions - good.
Not sure what else to do, looking for some advice on next steps from this awesome community
Thanks,
Andrew
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
If I leave the switch in the ‘on’ or first position for a few seconds, the battery light will come on, and the parking brake light as well. The backlight on the display flickers, but won’t come on.
Closing the loop on this one for any future reference of the group. The problem was the positive battery cable terminal had been crimped around the rubber insulation rather than the conductor. While some contact was made, it wasn’t enough to power the mower. Corrected it and all good now.