Here's hoping they don't make any money on this job thanks to your dogged determination to get to the bottom of it.Gosh it's almost like they want you to need service. Do they make money on that!?
Kubota ZD1211 - won't start
- Thread starter texaskubota
- Start date
No way they will give info about the innards of the black boxes.
We are lucky we can get manuals.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
curious...
is this K318162320 really the OPC 'controller' ??
dang it's $432 CDN ,plus 13% taxes....
If it just takes the 4 switches to turn on the relay, I can make the 'guts' for about $20,another $5 to bulletproof it.
is this K318162320 really the OPC 'controller' ??
dang it's $432 CDN ,plus 13% taxes....
If it just takes the 4 switches to turn on the relay, I can make the 'guts' for about $20,another $5 to bulletproof it.
Man, looks like you found it before I did. How did you find it? I had to Google and went down a rabbit hole to find it.
That's what I pulled out earlier and was a pain to retreive. Has that odd markings/numbers and assumed it likely wasn't a part number. Didn't dig deeper because I didn't see the elusive B/R wire
But I guess we can confirm that is the controller. Says NOTHING about it in the manual. Infact, it shows it (behind the relays), but says nothing anywhere
Shady
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
So if the dash lights 'follow' the switches ( light up) then the switches are OK.
If you jumper the starter relay and the starter spins, the relay is good.
on the OPC connector, if you jumper the B/R wire(pin 1 of connector) from the starter relay to pin 6 ( red/wht), relay should click. Pin 6 has 12 volts live from battery through 20 amp fuse.
question.. do YOU have to be in the seat to start the engine ?? I don't with my BX23S.
If you jumper the starter relay and the starter spins, the relay is good.
on the OPC connector, if you jumper the B/R wire(pin 1 of connector) from the starter relay to pin 6 ( red/wht), relay should click. Pin 6 has 12 volts live from battery through 20 amp fuse.
question.. do YOU have to be in the seat to start the engine ?? I don't with my BX23S.
Yup, has to be sat in.
I'm going to give your method a whirl, but first I am going to undo the grounds and give them and the frame a good cleaning.
I know, I should have done that from the start regardless of how they look. But reading about the relays, switches, and ignition switch also being common culprits, I got sidetracked.
If it is infact a bad ground, and that easy, don't worry, I paid for it!
Didn't solve the problem but now you have nice clean grounds.
Troubleshooting goes like that sometimes, you improve some things that aren't bad enough to make it go again but when you eventually find the root cause it starts like a new one!
Ok reporting back.
1. My damn multimeter probe broke off at the joint. So that made me question all my previous testing! Guess I've used it a lot.
Anyway.....had a spare so...
2. Tested the power to the starter relay. Nothing!
3. Tested the pin 1 to pin 6 jump. No go. So then tested to see if pin 6 is seeing any power (controller arms in neutral, parking brake set, seat bypassed). NOTHING!
4. I detected 12v at basically all the switches. And with their dash lights responding to movement, I have to believe they're all good. Maybe.
They all dropped a little in when moving ignition to start, except the seat dropped down to 9V on start. Hm. I already have tried jumping the mower with a known GOOD battery.
So in summary,, the OPC pin 6 sees no power and the starter relay sees no power (testing all ignition switch positions)
1. My damn multimeter probe broke off at the joint. So that made me question all my previous testing! Guess I've used it a lot.
Anyway.....had a spare so...
2. Tested the power to the starter relay. Nothing!
3. Tested the pin 1 to pin 6 jump. No go. So then tested to see if pin 6 is seeing any power (controller arms in neutral, parking brake set, seat bypassed). NOTHING!
4. I detected 12v at basically all the switches. And with their dash lights responding to movement, I have to believe they're all good. Maybe.
They all dropped a little in when moving ignition to start, except the seat dropped down to 9V on start. Hm. I already have tried jumping the mower with a known GOOD battery.
So in summary,, the OPC pin 6 sees no power and the starter relay sees no power (testing all ignition switch positions)
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Pin 6 is fed from a 20 amp fuse which is fed from the 50 amp slow-blo fuse from the battery.
so...
find the 20 amp fuse in the fuse panel, check both side of it( test holes in top of fuse), assuming it's a yellow ATC style.
The50 slo-blo is good, as 'stuff' lights up....
so...
find the 20 amp fuse in the fuse panel, check both side of it( test holes in top of fuse), assuming it's a yellow ATC style.
The50 slo-blo is good, as 'stuff' lights up....
20A is good. 0V in all ignition switch positions
All other fuses pass continuity as well
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
If you've got 12v on the 20 amp fuse and zero on pin 6 of the OPC, the the Red/Wht wire from the fuse to OPC is open or broken.
But I don't have 12V on the 20A. Maybe time to check the R/W from ignition?
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Using the diagram from post #7, the 20 amp fuse gets it's power from the 50 amp fuse, probably a solid RED wire. The 50A fuse is good, as ign key does turn on some dash lights.....
if there's no voltage on the 20 amp fuse, then the wire (RED ?) from the slow blow fuse or ign switch is bad.
I don't know where the 'splice' is, but that Red wire only goes to 3 places... slowblow fuse, ign sw and 20A fuse. It shouldn't be too hard to find,follow and fix...
if there's no voltage on the 20 amp fuse, then the wire (RED ?) from the slow blow fuse or ign switch is bad.
I don't know where the 'splice' is, but that Red wire only goes to 3 places... slowblow fuse, ign sw and 20A fuse. It shouldn't be too hard to find,follow and fix...
Well, it just got interesting.
On the fuse/relay/OPC harness.....there's a plug that connects to another plug that connects to the display dash (meter panel)....and I noticed the plug from the harness had a r/w wire. I slightly tug on it and it comes straight out.
I believe the starter diagram is ignoring that entire harness goes through the display dash (which after thinking, it obviously does because it detects all the switches)
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
sigh... really need to look at the entire wiring diagram in the WSM, electrical section...
that 20amp fuse 'output side' goes to Stop Solenoid, then the OPC and the 'meter panel' .
It IS live though , connected directly to the 50 slow blow fuse and the 'starter switch', so both sides of that fuse ( yellow ?) will show 12 volts all the time....
that 20amp fuse 'output side' goes to Stop Solenoid, then the OPC and the 'meter panel' .
It IS live though , connected directly to the 50 slow blow fuse and the 'starter switch', so both sides of that fuse ( yellow ?) will show 12 volts all the time....
I stripped the R/W a little to expose some wire and put it back in the plug with hopes to make decent contact. Still no start or power no matter how many times I seat it back in the plug
As it is now, the 20Amp is showing no voltage no matter what
I see it taps into the stop solenoid relay. Can't tell if that would have an effect in startup
If it's worth anything, I can confirm continuity from the power at ignition to the 20AMP
If it's worth anything, I can confirm continuity from the power at ignition to the 20AMP
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
ok.simple test..
according to the wsm wiring, the live +12 from 50 amp fuse goes to both the 20 amp fuse and a 15 amp.
the 15 goes to the 'regulator'.
please confirm it as +12 volt. I think 15 amp fuse are blue ?
this long distance diagnosis is difficult ! but easier than the 2 feet of snow I have to deal with come sunrise tomorrow......
according to the wsm wiring, the live +12 from 50 amp fuse goes to both the 20 amp fuse and a 15 amp.
the 15 goes to the 'regulator'.
please confirm it as +12 volt. I think 15 amp fuse are blue ?
this long distance diagnosis is difficult ! but easier than the 2 feet of snow I have to deal with come sunrise tomorrow......