Hydraulic/Electric toplink for B2650 (w/o rear remotes)?

[BetterThanAShovel]

I love my box blade and have a lot of smoothing/grading of my backyard to do, and would love the flexibility that a moving toplink would give me. But having seen a few videos of what adding rear remotes would look like, given that I have a backhoe, I'm not liking it. I've heard of an electric toplink, and while clearly that would be easier to install, I'd love some feedback on how usable/durable it is, if any of you out there have one.

Thanks,

Rob

EDIT: Changed the title to be more accurate. I thought I had heard of a fully electric top link, but I was wrong...it's a hydraulic toplink, but has its own self-contained electric pump. THAT'S what I'm asking about.

 

[animals45]

Take a look at this thread https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/rear-hydraulic-controls.61628/
animals45

 

[SDT]

I love my box blade and have a lot of smoothing/grading of my backyard to do, and would love the flexibility that a moving toplink would give me. But having seen a few videos of what adding rear remotes would look like, given that I have a backhoe, I'm not liking it. I've heard of an electric toplink, and while clearly that would be easier to install, I'd love some feedback on how usable/durable it is, if any of you out there have one.

Thanks,

Rob

Interesting.

Never heard of an electric top link.

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

Interesting.

Never heard of an electric top link.

Ya, someone in a previous thread mentioned it, and I said i'd love to hear more, but they never elaborated. I may have to go dig it up.

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

Take a look at this thread https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/rear-hydraulic-controls.61628/
animals45

Hmm...I looked through that whole thread, but didn't see anything to give me courage. I'm not experienced enough to be able to infer how something might relate to my own situation, so I need something that is specifically about adding rear hydraulics to a B2650 that has a B77 backhoe and a 3rd function valve.

This youtube video appears to be exactly that:

But I'm dismayed by a couple things:

• It looks like half the tractor has to come apart. I'm not sure I'm up for that.
• I hate how the valve body hangs out there, just begging for a tree to grab it (we live in the woods).

So given what it would take to add hydraulics in my situation, I was hoping there was an easier solution with an electric linear motor that could serve as the toplink. I know I saw it mentioned somewhere in these forums.....

 

[GreensvilleJay]

For $200 you can buy a 4000# A-frame trailer tongue jack, cut it down a bit, weld ends on, then simple wiring for 'in-out' operation. They draw about 30 amps more or less...The Princess Auto one has 14" of travel. Lots of different ones out there, all will be slooooow of course, though that might be a good thing.
I haven't done the 'math' to see if it or hydraulic is more cost effective, easy to chart the prices.

 

[animals45]

Just to be clear in my head , you were looking for a electric solunoid valve & not a electric ram / toplink ?
animals45

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

I WAS WRONG!

I found the thread where it was hinted at, and it is NOT a simple electric linear motor.

Selecting a box blade for a subcompact

I have a nearly new Land Pride 60” for sale in that for sale section…pics and price.

www.orangetractortalks.com

He mentions a hydraulic top link with an attached electric hydraulic pump.

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

Just to be clear in my head , you were looking for a electric solunoid valve & not a electric ram / toplink ?
animals45

Ha, it wasn't just you, I wasn't clear in my head either. I've NOT heard about an electric solenoid, it was an electric/hydraulic combo toplink that I heard about.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I love my box blade and have a lot of smoothing/grading of my backyard to do, and would love the flexibility that a moving toplink would give me. But having seen a few videos of what adding rear remotes would look like, given that I have a backhoe, I'm not liking it. I've heard of an electric toplink, and while clearly that would be easier to install, I'd love some feedback on how usable/durable it is, if any of you out there have one.

Thanks,

Rob

EDIT: Changed the title to be more accurate. I thought I had heard of a fully electric top link, but I was wrong...it's a hydraulic toplink, but has its own self-contained electric pump. THAT'S what I'm asking about.

Given that you have a backhoe adding a hydraulic valve and outlets is about as easy as it gets.

Dan

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

Given that you have a backhoe adding a hydraulic valve and outlets is about as easy as it gets.

Dan

I do kinda believe that, since the hydraulic source is already back there. Unfortunately, without an explicit guide, I'm not brave enough to try it. Way to advanced for me to DIY, and probably too expensive to have the dealer do it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I do kinda believe that, since the hydraulic source is already back there. Unfortunately, without an explicit guide, I'm not brave enough to try it. Way to advanced for me to DIY, and probably too expensive to have the dealer do it.

Not at all - the plumbing is easily explained- PM me if you want an explicit guide. Your biggest issue is locating the valve on the tractor. Fender or ROPs mounting would be the easiest in terms of cost and plumbing.

Dan

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

Not at all - the plumbing is easily explained- PM me if you want an explicit guide. Your biggest issue is locating the valve on the tractor. Fender or ROPs mounting would be the easiest in terms of cost and plumbing.

Dan

Thanks Dan, that's very kind. Let me start down this path and see what scares me. First, I have to identify what valve kit I'm needing. Is that listed obscurely on the Kubota site somewhere, or maybe a kit from Summit?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks Dan, that's very kind. Let me start down this path and see what scares me. First, I have to identify what valve kit I'm needing. Is that listed obscurely on the Kubota site somewhere, or maybe a kit from Summit?

Its not that complicated. All you need is a single spool valve and a couple hydraulic hoses. This $100 Summit valve would work just fine:

Monoblock Hydraulic Directional Control Valve, 1 Spool, 11 GPM

FREE SHIPPING Monoblock Hydraulic Directional Control Valve, 1 Spool, 11 GPM

summit-hydraulics.com

Dan

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

Its not that complicated. All you need is a single spool valve and a couple hydraulic hoses. This $100 Summit valve would work just fine:

Monoblock Hydraulic Directional Control Valve, 1 Spool, 11 GPM

FREE SHIPPING Monoblock Hydraulic Directional Control Valve, 1 Spool, 11 GPM

summit-hydraulics.com

Dan

Ok, so let me see if I'm getting this:

• I get the above valve, which comes with the control handles integrated into it. (In fact, while I'm at it, I might as well get the 2 spool in case I want to add a tilt, right?)
• I would also have to get the actual hydraulic quick connector, 2 for each "spool", right?
• I find some place I can mount it so that it's not in the way of the backhoe or of me swiveling the seat or of potential tree branches
• Once mounted there, while I'm using the backhoe, it just sits there.
• When I remove the backhoe, if I don't want to use the rear remotes, I just plug in the hydraulic line like normal into the return.
• when I want to use the rear remotes, when the backhoe is removed, then I take that hydraulic line normally meant for the backhoe and plug it into the monoblock valve. I then also take some return line and IT plugs into where the backhoe line used to be.
• for a toplink (or side link), I'd then make a To/from connection from the link to this mounted valve assembly.

Seems like the hardest part in this will be deciding where the hydraulic octopus would go then.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ok, so let me see if I'm getting this:

• I get the above valve, which comes with the control handles integrated into it. (In fact, while I'm at it, I might as well get the 2 spool in case I want to add a tilt, right?)
• I would also have to get the actual hydraulic quick connector, 2 for each "spool", right?
• I find some place I can mount it so that it's not in the way of the backhoe or of me swiveling the seat or of potential tree branches
• Once mounted there, while I'm using the backhoe, it just sits there.
• When I remove the backhoe, if I don't want to use the rear remotes, I just plug in the hydraulic line like normal into the return.
• when I want to use the rear remotes, when the backhoe is removed, then I take that hydraulic line normally meant for the backhoe and plug it into the monoblock valve. I then also take some return line and IT plugs into where the backhoe line used to be.
• for a toplink (or side link), I'd then make a To/from connection from the link to this mounted valve assembly.

Seems like the hardest part in this will be deciding where the hydraulic octopus would go then.

Close but not quite. You reroute the backhoe supply hose to the IN port on the new valve and you put the quick connect on the power beyond port of the valve. The coupler on the power beyond on the valve is the new supply for the backhoe . When you remove the backhoe you plug the loopback into the valve. Just that simple. The valve is always hooked up and available for use.

If you mount the valve near the ROPS you can put the outlets on the valve and eliminate the octopus.

I skipped one step - you also need to run a hose from the tank port on the valve to the tractor reservoir. Real simple hookup.

Dan

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

So continuing with this idea, it seems like the biggest question left is where would it be mounted?

I went and looked at the tractor, with the seat facing forward and back (backhoe mode), and looking at the right console area with the seat twisted to see if it interferes. Right now there's a LaneShark controller in the tray with the 12v outlet. That could go away, as I don't have a LaneShark and don't plan to have one, which might free up that area to mount it.

Any suggestions?

 

[TheOldHokie]

So continuing with this idea, it seems like the biggest question left is where would it be mounted?

I went and looked at the tractor, with the seat facing forward and back (backhoe mode), and looking at the right console area with the seat twisted to see if it interferes. Right now there's a LaneShark controller in the tray with the 12v outlet. That could go away, as I don't have a LaneShark and don't plan to have one, which might free up that area to mount it.

Any suggestions?
View attachment 94955

That's a pretty busy tractor. The area circled in red looks very inviting ....

Dan

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

With the valve handles (two handles, might as well go top and side link!) facing directly back and the quick disconnects facing up under the seat?

 

[TheOldHokie]

With the valve handles (two handles, might as well go top and side link!) facing directly back and the quick disconnects facing up under the seat?

I would think handles coming out the front under the seat similar to the picture below.

I would also think you would want the couplers facing rearward just like the hoe. Two spools makes mounting the couplers on the valves slightly more difficult. Standard rear remotes would be 1/2" body size couplers. You cannot screw then directly into the ports - the ports are not spaced far enough apart. I am not sure you can even get 1/4" couplers mounted that way. With two spools you could use port adapters to come straight up with rearmost couplers above front ones. Then a 90 degree elbow and a 45 degree jog to get the needed side to side clearance. Assuming there are no clearance issues that would be a very neat and tidy install.

Dan