Looks as though the best value is Massimo ones at TSC or Lowes. Come with winches, etc. for about $10k.
Still, I'm about settled on the Kubota 520.
Still, I'm about settled on the Kubota 520.
Buying a UTV
- Thread starter RalphVa
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xrocketengineer
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BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
Well, I know nothing about UTV's and zero experience with CVT's but I have an opinion. I believe that all the ugly stories on CVT's started after they started using them in cars even though they have been successfully used for years on everything else. The big difference is that in a none car application, the belt is pulled by the driving sheave, putting the belt in tension and in turn tightening the belt around the driven sheave. This is just like like any other drive belt system.
If you watch any You Tube video of a car CVT (failure), the so called belt is made of a bunch of flat metal plates attached to a metal band the holds them together to form the belt. The difference in this application is that the driving sheave is not pulling on the belt. Instead, it is pushing on the belt towards the driven sheave to make it move. So even though it is not like trying to push on a wet noodle, the advantage of the additional friction added by pulling on a belt (as in a conventional CVT) that helps the belt to wrap around the sheaves tighter and fight the centrifugal force, it is lost in the automotive setup. I am interpreting that in order to compensate for the lack the extra tension friction between the sheaves and belt on the automotive setup, the belt tension has to be increased and the way to do that is by forcing the sheave ratio to be altered. This probably adds additional loads to the sheave width control system and accelerates the wear on the belt and sheaves.
If you watch any You Tube video of a car CVT (failure), the so called belt is made of a bunch of flat metal plates attached to a metal band the holds them together to form the belt. The difference in this application is that the driving sheave is not pulling on the belt. Instead, it is pushing on the belt towards the driven sheave to make it move. So even though it is not like trying to push on a wet noodle, the advantage of the additional friction added by pulling on a belt (as in a conventional CVT) that helps the belt to wrap around the sheaves tighter and fight the centrifugal force, it is lost in the automotive setup. I am interpreting that in order to compensate for the lack the extra tension friction between the sheaves and belt on the automotive setup, the belt tension has to be increased and the way to do that is by forcing the sheave ratio to be altered. This probably adds additional loads to the sheave width control system and accelerates the wear on the belt and sheaves.
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I have a different opinion, 2005 mule diesel which replacement the 2001 Mule that put a rod thru the side of the block at 515 miles(all maintenance was done and 1 month out of warranty). Now the 2005 mule at 750ish miles needed injectors due to excessive smoking, About 100 miles later a CV axle broke. 200 miles later the metal fuel tank rusted out(no longer available from Kawasaki). At 1223 miles the speedometer cable failed. Is only used to plow a private driveway and light gardening yet spring project is going to be replacing the floor and parts of the bed due to rust(thru it), yet no salt has even been used in it and washed fairly regularly. Also all the paint fell off the rims within a year of being new, but not covered under warranty. This will be the last Kawasaki I own. Also a CVT transmission in my auto tech experience is the worst transmission that ever existed(yes, I did own a VW autostick).
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jkrubi12
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B2601/LA435/QA54"/BH70/B8160box/BB1254/PFL1242/SGC0554/WC-68 Chipper
Your'e entitled to your opinion. What's your experience? I've been thoroughly impressed with all that I've owned.
CVT's are probably one of the most commonly seen transmissions sold today. Their 'track record' speaks for itself.
I've nothing against CVTs, but I do not like the freewheeling they allow on the RTVs. I've just ordered a Maverick hybrid, which uses a CVT.
xrocketengineer
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BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
If you bought a Ford Maverick Hybrid, it has an eCVT, which is a totally different animal. That transmission has no belts and it is supposed to be very reliable, however some people recommends changing the oil every 30K miles. Here is a detailed explanation of how they work :
Just got an email from Kubota on their UTVs…all they showed were the diesels and not the gas models…(I forget what they’re called)
Starting Price’s on the base model was around $17k
Starting Price’s on the base model was around $17k
RTV-XG850 with rubber belt CVT. No problems going up or down hills or problems with towing.
Defiantly lots of zoom-zoom, not pokey like the hydrostats. Belt drive CVT's have been around forever and are pretty reliable.
Bought a Kubota RTV 520 this afternoon from Beverage Tractor in Stuarts Draft. Delivery is scheduled for next Wednesday. Thing really stops in L range just letting up on the accelerator pedal. More gentle stoppage in H range. Just what we need for the hill behind the house.
Also bought a Landpride RC. He had Woods, too, but he recommended the Landpride.
Also bought a Landpride RC. He had Woods, too, but he recommended the Landpride.
That’s probably the model I would buy for my property…may I ask the price they charged? Also, what is an “RC”?
Congrats. Here's my Polaris Ranger 570 doing some firewood work while being outfitted to snow plow.
Highly doubtful. They sell them as fast as they can make them. Not only for residential use but they have a huge presence in the mining and construction/utility industries.
The mine I work at recently started replacing some of the underground Toyotas with Kubota RTV's.
As for CVT's, I currently have an RTV-X1100C which is a hydrostatic, but I also have a 2004 Polaris Sportsman 500 that was my sole snow plow in my yard for it's first 8 years (parking and turnaround big enough for my tractor trailers) and it's still trail riding today on original belt. So they can't be that bad.
johnjk
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B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
As much as I hate China (and there is no way around them, even my Cat loader has China parts) when I do buy my next atv to accompany my slow RTV workhorse it is going to be a CF Moto.
They have all quality components like CV Tech clutches, Bosch fuel injection and a motor jointly designed with KTM motorcycles. They continually upgrade/improve parts. And they have a price that Polaris/Can Am, etc can't even come close to.
And you get a fully equipped machine......comes stock with winch, doors, roof, LED head and tail lights, signal lights, rear view mirrors, horn, etc.
I'm looking at the new Gen 2 800 Trail right now.
This one has special tires and wheels and the front bumper thing. Price was about 13.3k$. Missed out on a less equipped one earlier at 12.5k$. They're definitely higher priced than similar other 500 cc machines and have less power. The VHT (hydrostatic) drive is what sold it for me, much safer on hills. Maybe if you're used to driving auto transmission cars that don't brake much by engine power, you'd be more okay with the dozens of others with CVT drives. On this one, you hardly need the brakes.
An RC is rear cutter, more generic than "bush hog".
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No speed demon here…having owned 2 BXs, I would probably opt for the VHT as well as I have hills on the property. Not quite ready yet as I’m still paying for my Kubota ZERO TURN mower which I absolutely love. No more mowing with the BX!
I bought a Ryobi ZT480e a couple years ago. Like it, especially after putting more aggressive tires on it.
Don't have any gas stuff. Likely will siphon from Mazda3 or Tacoma to get a couple gallons of gas for the 520 each time it needs some. Gave away all my extra gas containers or are using them for diesel.