D950 timing marks?

sundown57

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Nov 21, 2020
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Im rebuilding a KubotaD950 in a bobcat, everything I see says there should be a timing mark on the crankshaft pully but of course, there isn't. there are marks on the cam and pump so I'm good there. the flywheel has evenly spaced holes so I can put it on any one of 5 ways. is there a way to set the crank without marks? I was thinking the key should be straight down and piston at TDC. or does #1 have to be past TDC?
 

PoTreeBoy

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Im rebuilding a KubotaD950 in a bobcat, everything I see says there should be a timing mark on the crankshaft pully but of course, there isn't. there are marks on the cam and pump so I'm good there. the flywheel has evenly spaced holes so I can put it on any one of 5 ways. is there a way to set the crank without marks? I was thinking the key should be straight down and piston at TDC. or does #1 have to be past TDC?
I've never personally encountered it but, my understanding is the flywheel can really only go on one way. One of the bolt spacings is a little off and you have to be careful to get it right.
 

sundown57

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That's always been my experience too but I tried it and was able to bolt it on in any position.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Im rebuilding a KubotaD950 in a bobcat, everything I see says there should be a timing mark on the crankshaft pully but of course, there isn't. there are marks on the cam and pump so I'm good there. the flywheel has evenly spaced holes so I can put it on any one of 5 ways. is there a way to set the crank without marks? I was thinking the key should be straight down and piston at TDC. or does #1 have to be past TDC?
If the bolts for the flywheel are the originals, bushing tops, then the flywheel can only go on one way.
Hand thread them in to the bushing and it will stop if not aligned right.

No there is no marks on the pulley only on the crank gear.

Now, why do you need to know the timing marks?
They are of little use to these engines, it's not easy or necessary to have to play with the timing.
 

sundown57

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bobcat
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If the bolts for the flywheel are the originals, bushing tops, then the flywheel can only go on one way.
Hand thread them in to the bushing and it will stop if not aligned right.

No there is no marks on the pulley only on the crank gear.

Now, why do you need to know the timing marks?
They are of little use to these engines, it's not easy or necessary to have to play with the timing.
when you take the engine apart to rebuild it and you remove the crank the marks come in handy to put it back together
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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when you take the engine apart to rebuild it and you remove the crank the marks come in handy to put it back together
Ok that's not a timing mark on the pulley or the flywheel.
The only marks you need are on the front gears.

engine timing marks.JPG
 

sundown57

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bobcat
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Ok so I took the cover back off and this is how I have it timed. Im concerned the mark im using on the crank gear is incorrect, I do have the pully key straight down like in the pictures. I also noticed no matter how many times i rotate the engine the marks never seem to line up again. Does
IMG_1701.JPG
IMG_1702.JPG
IMG_1703.JPG
IMG_1705.JPG
IMG_1707.JPG
IMG_1708.JPG
anyone see a mistake here?
 
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007kubotaguy

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Timing marks look correct. The oring on the crankshaft sleeve should be on the back of the sleeve not the front.
 

sundown57

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bobcat
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Timing marks look correct. The oring on the crankshaft sleeve should be on the back of the sleeve not the front.
thats how i took it apart, not sure i want to try and change it now. any idea why they dont line back up after 4 turns?
 

sundown57

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ok well im going to try putting it back together and try it again, right now while i have the cover off im trying to find what valves i can adjust at #1TDC and then one turn. Not much info out there on these D950's
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Yep timing is correct.
The marks only line up every 280 turns if my memory is correct, yes odd but normal.

Did you have any work done to the top of the block?
If not then the same shims under the injection pump will be used.
If you had any material taken off the deck you will need to get shims that match the amount taken off.
That sets the timing on the injection pump.

Setting the valves is not hard at all, just rotate the engine and watch the valves, there is many a different way to do it and they all work.
The cam in these is quick and goes back flat quickly so anywhere on the flat is good to get the gap.
In other words when it stops moving go a little further and then set it.
Run it around twice per to confirm adjustment.
.008 is on the money.

I have a ton of info on rebuilding these engines, the D650, D750, D850, And D950 are all the same build.
If you need something specific just ask.
 

sundown57

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bobcat
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ok so got it back together, started hard, lots of white smoke. even warm only starts with glow plugs. pulled the shims out from under the pump. that helped a little. less smoke at least. Still seems like the timing is retarded.
 

sundown57

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bobcat
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nothing done to the block or head just new liners, pistons, valves ETC. but i bought this machine not running so im not sure if this was a problem before I got it. I pulled the pump and took it apart. no broken springs or obvious problems. same with the injectors. it does run just seems lethargic. it more like winds up to start, not the strong blast off like you would expect from a diesel.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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nothing done to the block or head just new liners, pistons, valves ETC. but i bought this machine not running so im not sure if this was a problem before I got it. I pulled the pump and took it apart. no broken springs or obvious problems. same with the injectors. it does run just seems lethargic. it more like winds up to start, not the strong blast off like you would expect from a diesel.
Put the shims back under the pump, it's not out of time that far.
Do a injection timing test on the pump with all the shims under the pump.
do not use any sealer on the shims, pump or block, dry and clean.
Original injectors?
Bad injectors will make them run like poo!
 

sundown57

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probably should have done that when i had the cover off so i could see the marks. I'm not sure the process to do that test but ill look it up. thanks
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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probably should have done that when i had the cover off so i could see the marks. I'm not sure the process to do that test but ill look it up. thanks
A spill test does not require you to see the marks, in fact they have nothing to do with those marks.
There should be marks on the side of the flywheel for TDC.
If there is not, then pull all the injectors out (makes it much easier to turn) put your finger in a hole #1, turn the engine by hand, turn until it doesn't push your finger out, that's TDC, temporarily mark the flywheel, do it several times to confirm. Then do spill test using that mark.
 

sundown57

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bobcat
Nov 21, 2020
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thought i would post this in case someone runs into the same problem. the OEM Kubota had a 2 piece head gasket. Gasket and shim. According to the book some used the shim some didn't. Gasket is .045 shim is .015 aftermarket is .065. My compression was about 350 PSI replaced the gasket with OEM no shim and compression jumped to 450 and it runs great. Thanks all for the help.
 

PoTreeBoy

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thought i would post this in case someone runs into the same problem. the OEM Kubota had a 2 piece head gasket. Gasket and shim. According to the book some used the shim some didn't. Gasket is .045 shim is .015 aftermarket is .065. My compression was about 350 PSI replaced the gasket with OEM no shim and compression jumped to 450 and it runs great. Thanks all for the help.
You did reset the valves? Just double checking.
 

sundown57

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bobcat
Nov 21, 2020
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oh yeah, I backed them off like 2 turns, torqued the head then turned the engine by hand then readjusted the valves.