New owner of a 1989 Kubota B8200 manual shift with loader. First tractor.

[MAArcher]

Do these tractors benefit from any diesel treatments? I drive a Ford 7.3 and it does better when I use Diesel Kleen; should I use that in the tractor as well?

 

[MAArcher]

Check out how this guy made the most of his 8200, probably not going to win any beauty contests but still pretty cool:

Kubota b8200 has come a long way, picture heavy

www.mytractorforum.com

 

[TheOldHokie]

So the salesman at Green Hoe has it wrong you think, there's no way to get 16gpm/2,500psi from a 16hp PTO? It didn't seem like he was just telling me what I wanted to hear, he had to keep "checking" to get the answers.

I think your salesdroid is not well informed. The engineering calculations are well established.

Input HP = (GPM x PSI) / DF

Wher DF is the design factor for input driver type:

• Hydraulic motor = 1750
• Electric motor = 1460
• Industrial diesel / gasoline engine = 1100
• Commercial gas engine = 900

Doing the arithemetic for a diesel engine and 16 GPM @ 2500 PSI:

Input HP = (16 x 2500) / 1100 = 36 HP.

That is probably a bit pessimistic but certainly a far better estimate than 16 HP.


Dan

 

[Biker1mike]

You mentioned speed as high 3. Does this mean it is a geared tranny and not hydrostatic.
The experts here know better than I bit my 2 cents if your pto is live.
The PTO driven hydraulics will have the pto running around 540 at 2500 rpm (about). Would that require a constant speed while snow blowing ? When I move snow I am doing a lot of maneuvering with stops and starts.

 

[MAArcher]

I think your salesdroid is not well informed. The engineering calculations are well established.

Input HP = (GPM x PSI) / DF

Wher DF is the design factor for input driver type:

• Hydraulic motor = 1750
• Electric motor = 1460
• Industrial diesel / gasoline engine = 1100
• Commercial gas engine = 900

Doing the arithemetic for a diesel engine and 16 GPM @ 2500 PSI:

Input HP = (16 x 2500) / 1100 = 36 HP.

That is probably a bit pessimistic but certainly a far better estimate than 16 HP.


Dan

Not happy you burst by bubble, but thank you for the cold hard truth. I guess I'm going to have to drive around backwards for some stuff.

Does anyone know if they make a rear facing 3 point flail mower? The reason I wanted to put it on the front of the machine, besides being able to raise it high would be cool, is so that if cutting brush I don't have to drive over it first and beat the tractor up. Do the forward facing rear mounted flail mowers cut just as well in reverse as they do in forward? Maybe trying to lay brush down with the loader as I drive over it will be good enough? Or make some sort of skid plate...

 

[MAArcher]

You mentioned speed as high 3. Does this mean it is a geared tranny and not hydrostatic.
The experts here know better than I bit my 2 cents if your pto is live.
The PTO driven hydraulics will have the pto running around 540 at 2500 rpm (about). Would that require a constant speed while snow blowing ? When I move snow I am doing a lot of maneuvering with stops and starts.

Yes, manual gear transmission, 1, 2, 3 and reverse with high, medium and low range. I'm guessing if it was going to work out I'd be using the blower and flail in low range to keep RPM high and ground speed low.

 

[MAArcher]

Float is a function or feature built into the loader valve.
Start by determining how many hoses connect to the loader valve. 6 or 7.
The answer will help advising you on a possible replacement loader valve.
Why do you think you need a float feature? Most tractors of the 1960's and 1970's did not have it and their owners coped quite well.
Dave

There are seven hoses, two rows of three and then the one on the end.

 

[TheOldHokie]

You mentioned speed as high 3. Does this mean it is a geared tranny and not hydrostatic.
The experts here know better than I bit my 2 cents if your pto is live.
The PTO driven hydraulics will have the pto running around 540 at 2500 rpm (about). Would that require a constant speed while snow blowing ? When I move snow I am doing a lot of maneuvering with stops and starts.

There are seven hoses, two rows of three and then the one on the end.
View attachment 88348

That loader valve looks like the one used on a BF300 loader and it has float on the boom spool. Push forward for power down, continue past the detent to the next position for float. May or may not lock in the float position.

Dan

 

[MAArcher]

That loader valve looks like the one used on a BF300 loader and it has float on the boom spool. Push forward for power down, continue past the detent to the next position for float. May or may not lock in the float position.

Dan

Damn. I guess I should have taken a moment to read all the labels. I'll try it later and see how it works. Thank you!

 

[My Barn]

We have a B8200 it's getting pricier to keep! With a vintage tractor things are in need of replacing...I tried to replace it but a new tractor is hard to get? That price it way to high I'm thinking.

 

[TheOldHokie]

We have a B8200 it's getting pricier to keep! With a vintage tractor things are in need of replacing...I tried to replace it but a new tractor is hard to get? That price it way to high I'm thinking.

I have the B7200DT and I just purchased a new L3901 HST for the reasons you describe. Much more tractor, 6 year OEM power train warranty and far fewer headaches. I should have done it years ago and IMO worth every penny of the $25K. About the only thing the B7200 does these days is pull the wood cart.

Dan

 

[MAArcher]

We have a B8200 it's getting pricier to keep! With a vintage tractor things are in need of replacing...I tried to replace it but a new tractor is hard to get? That price it way to high I'm thinking.

Prices might be lower in MI. If I listed this tractor on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace for $5k it would be the least expense 4x4 tractor loader in New England by a couple thousand dollars.

 

[fried1765]

Prices might be lower in MI. If I listed this tractor on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace for $5k it would be the least expense 4x4 tractor loader in New England by a couple thousand dollars.

I totally understand that you want to own the most tractor for the least total cost!
Who doesn't?
Over your anticipated 20 year use, I submit that a new, or much newer tractor, will be much more cost effective,....... and with much less frustration also!

I too am in New England, so do understand the pricing issue.
I bought my exceptionally low time L48 TLB in Maine 3 years ago.
I looked all over the East, for almost a year.
Found a private owner sale, and a very good deal!

It can take a lot of patience to find the right tractor at a price you feel is fair.
You might even want to go red (Massey) or green if a good deal pops up.