ZD326s Starting Issues

[djtodd77]

So, the short version is my ZD326s is giving me trouble starting, I can start it by jumping from the positive lug on the start to the solenoid. I was mowing, parked it, came back 5 minutes later and it wouldn't start.

Symptoms

- Flickering or non-illuminated lights on the Easy Checker with key in 'On' position
- Sometimes the first 2 lights light in the on position and the steady 'clicking' from under the hood, but then when trying to start there is a 'click' under the hood and all lights go out.
- Frequently the key will not stop the engine when switched to the off position.


Things I've done

- New Ignition switch
- New safety switches all around
- Tested all fuses in the fuse box under the seat, and the large red one near the starter
- Checked the voltage on the battery with my multimeter, getting 12.96v
- Replaced Starter
- cleaned / reseated the 2 connectors from the console.
- Checked the ground strap near the starter.


I can start it using the solenoid and kill it using the kill under the hood, but obviously I want to get this fixed. Seems like a electrical issue back to the console but I'm not sure where to go from here.. I guess I should check continuity between the connector on the rear of the the key switch and it's connector under the seat, but beyond that.. I'm looking for ideas


Thanks for any advice any has!

 

[Captain13]

That click under the hood should be the fuel shut off solenoid energizing. Not being able to shut it off with the key is an indication that it is failing or failed. It may be shorting but not completely shorting to ground and this not blowing the fuse. It is a solenoid and the windings may be partially shorted but not causing a fuse to blow. Before you say it’s either good or bad but nothing in between, when mine started to fail, I could move the throttle up to 1/2 and it would click and then start fine. One day, I couldn’t turn it off. Replaced the solenoid and solved the problem.

Also, you are reading 12.97 battery voltage but you need to have it load tested. Take it to a parts store. They do it for free. It may be failing under load. Do that before you ditch the fuel shut off.

 

[Dave_eng]

I have attached a couple of Kubota documents which may or may not be related and of help.
I have not studied them for a long time hence my caution.
If, after you have looked them over you have questions, please ask and I will try and get back up to speed.
Dave

 

[mikester]

Start tracing your wires and harness connections, do you have a wiring diagram? I attached the troubleshooting for you

 

[whitetiger]

I have attached a couple of Kubota documents which may or may not be related and of help.
I have not studied them for a long time hence my caution.
If, after you have looked them over you have questions, please ask and I will try and get back up to speed.
Dave

Dave,
Those are for gas-powered units so very little information on them would be pertinent to a ZD300 series diesel unit.

 

[Dave_eng]

Dave,
Those are for gas-powered units so very little information on them would be pertinent to a ZD300 series diesel unit.

Thanks for pointing this simple fact out

 

[lugbolt]

done a few of those with corrosion inside the wire harness. Voltage drop test will find it.

there are also some relays under the seat that sometimes will get corroded, and the wires just fall off of them. Worth looking at 'em.

 

[djtodd77]

Haven't had much time to troubleshoot as I'm in florida and dealing with post-hurricane issues..

Anyway, I ordered a stop solenoid just for kicks and I'm going to start tracing the harness, specifically back to the relays, etc.. checking for continuity along the way.. Will report back as soon as I have a chance to do more diag..

My 'repair time' was spent yesterday working on the 3 point control for my L3240

 

[djtodd77]

worked on it a bit today.. It's important to mention the following

- I jumped the starter yesterday and mowed a bit.. It sputter (like it ran out of fuel) and died.. managed to get it jumped again after towing it back to the barn and it ran very low RPM for a bit, then got up to speed before sputtering and dying 5 minutes later.

I ordered fuel filters to see if thats the deal there, very possible as I've never changed them and the
previous owner seemingly did little to no PMI.




- Back to the original issue, I've swapped all safety switch, all 3 relays under the seat, and the shutoff solenoid.. The lights on the dash will still rarely 'come on' and when they do, it's a quick off when the key is turned to start.. Then it's dead after that until the lights slowly 'flicker' back to life and then this the same cycle over and over.


I have yet to bring the battery to autozone (I know I should have by now) .. but any other ideas as I keep plugging away at this thing?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

starts, runs for 5 then dies.... could be a plugged fuel cap. Easy test, remove cap start and see if it runs for more than 5 minutes....

the electrical problem, could be bad battery, bad cables, bad connectors.
Possible culprit is the weather.. water, especially salt water is very,very bad on wiring ,switches, connectors. did this machine ever get salty water wet ??

 

[djtodd77]

starts, runs for 5 then dies.... could be a plugged fuel cap. Easy test, remove cap start and see if it runs for more than 5 minutes....

the electrical problem, could be bad battery, bad cables, bad connectors.
Possible culprit is the weather.. water, especially salt water is very,very bad on wiring ,switches, connectors. did this machine ever get salty water wet ??

no salty water wet, but it did get rained on a few weeks prior.. so it's possible that could be contributing, if not the root cause

 

[lugbolt]

- Sometimes the first 2 lights light in the on position and the steady 'clicking' from under the hood, but then when trying to start there is a 'click' under the hood and all lights go out.

learn how to do a voltage drop test and test your 12v pos side and the ground side

bet you'll find the issue quickly once you learn how to do that test.

it's not a continuity test, those can sometimes be misleading--all it tells you is that the conductor has enough conductivity to pass the very small amount of current that the multimeter puts out, through it. Maybe one strand can pass that much, but what happens when you load that circuit? That one strand can't pass 50A through it....and THAT is where the drop test tells the rest of the story. 0.5v maximum drop, 0.0 optimal.

 

[djtodd77]

Probably a wednesday project at this point... Finally got the parts in today to rebuild the left front side of my L3240.. Got the bearing races out today, so tomorrow everything can go back together..

Thankfully after that the L3240 should be back up and operational and I can concentrate on the ZD326s.. I did change the fuel filters on the 326 today, as well topped off the battery.. removed the ground from the battery to the frame, cleaned and reinstalled.

Current symptoms

- No lights, no click
- can jump started, but engine doesn't start.. I pulled the fuel line off right before the fuel rail and there was nothing coming out, I suspect the fuel pump may have died.. Again, could have gotten wet. Filters were pretty nasty..

More to come on this one soon, thanks everyone for your help so far

 

[djtodd77]

got back to it.. changed the fuel pump as well.. ultimately.. I THINK I've found the culprit.

The ( K1253-62050 ) Power regulator connector is corroded and shot to hell.. When I disconnected the wiring harness, one of the blades came off the regulator side.. additionally, 2 of the wires literally fell off the back of the connector while I was handling it.

part on order, will repost once it's installed.