BX2680 maintenance questions

[TRUCK3]

I just picked up a new to me BX2680. It has just over 200 hours, was owned by an older couple with small acreage and horses. Primarily was used to mow, both belly mower and they used a rear mount finish mower for the pastures.

Looking to see if I can get any maintenance records from the selling dealer. Oil filter is marked changed at about 100 hrs. Looking to see what I am going to do for maintenance right now. Starting with an oil change and will go from there. Had a few questions for the BX owners out there:

1. Oil weight, I'm thinking going with 10W-30, conventional or synthetic blend. I'm in upstate NY. not planning currently on winter operation, but I do typically run to Thanksgiving or a week later so there can be some 32F or lower temps. Kubota indicates 10W-30 or 15W-40 would work for my conditions down to 14F. Stopped by the local dealer and they recommend running 10W-30, probably because we do see temps lower than 14F. I see some owners running/recommending synthetic 5W-40 for lower temp operation. I don't know if I'm ready to go synthetic, probably stick with a conventional or synthetic blend for now.

2. Front axle fluid, looks as though not required to be changed until 400 hrs. Considering whether I should changed out to 80W-90 gear oil? I read some thoughts on gear oil providing better protection than the SUDT-2 fluid? Not sure on this one - not sure if operating under colder temps would lead me to one vs. the other?

3. Torn inner ball joint cover - one of the inner ball joint covers is torn. Kubota parts would be a new inner ball joint. I think I saw a youtube video of replacement of just the covers/boots. I don't see those listed on the Kubota parts site - are those available aftermarket?

4. Where to buy parts - first Kubota, so trying to find out any parts sources other than my local dealer. Dealer is a bit out the way for me, but not that far. I do like to have an online option, sometimes it is more convenient to order and have the parts delivered. Any online sources better than others or maybe at a discount that I wouldn't get at a local dealer?

Thanks for any help.

 

[WoodKutter]

I personally would always stick with kubota filters, from the dealer or online, oil, fuel, air and hydraulic should all be changed. If it has a block heater, again personally I would use 15w40. Either will serve you well and there will be other opinions. Can't help you on the torn boot. Welcome!

 

[Henro]

With only 200 hours on the tractor I would not worry about maintenance records. I would just do what was recommended in the operators manual.

Actually, I might do the 400 hour service early just to feel good.

Of course, I would fix any damage that I identified, such as what you have shown.

 

[bookemdano]

I just picked up a new to me BX2680. It has just over 200 hours, was owned by an older couple with small acreage and horses. Primarily was used to mow, both belly mower and they used a rear mount finish mower for the pastures.

Looking to see if I can get any maintenance records from the selling dealer. Oil filter is marked changed at about 100 hrs. Looking to see what I am going to do for maintenance right now. Starting with an oil change and will go from there. Had a few questions for the BX owners out there:

1. Oil weight, I'm thinking going with 10W-30, conventional or synthetic blend. I'm in upstate NY. not planning currently on winter operation, but I do typically run to Thanksgiving or a week later so there can be some 32F or lower temps. Kubota indicates 10W-30 or 15W-40 would work for my conditions down to 14F. Stopped by the local dealer and they recommend running 10W-30, probably because we do see temps lower than 14F. I see some owners running/recommending synthetic 5W-40 for lower temp operation. I don't know if I'm ready to go synthetic, probably stick with a conventional or synthetic blend for now.

2. Front axle fluid, looks as though not required to be changed until 400 hrs. Considering whether I should changed out to 80W-90 gear oil? I read some thoughts on gear oil providing better protection than the SUDT-2 fluid? Not sure on this one - not sure if operating under colder temps would lead me to one vs. the other?

3. Torn inner ball joint cover - one of the inner ball joint covers is torn. Kubota parts would be a new inner ball joint. I think I saw a youtube video of replacement of just the covers/boots. I don't see those listed on the Kubota parts site - are those available aftermarket?
View attachment 86226

4. Where to buy parts - first Kubota, so trying to find out any parts sources other than my local dealer. Dealer is a bit out the way for me, but not that far. I do like to have an online option, sometimes it is more convenient to order and have the parts delivered. Any online sources better than others or maybe at a discount that I wouldn't get at a local dealer?

Thanks for any help.

My BX2680 has less than 150 hours and both ball joint covers are toast. If you find
some please let me know where.
Thanks
Dano

 

[The Evil Twin]

My personal opinion is to swap all the fluids when I purchase a used vehicle. On road or off. It eases my mind about any possible contamination from water or filth. That's just me.
Knowing what I do about oil, I would go with the 15w40 if you intend to work it hard. Otherwise 10w30. If you have a block heater and/ or store the tractor in a garage then sub- 14° Temps with 15w40 or 10w30 will be OK if the weather gets a little colder. The argument over syn vs. Con is irrelevant if you change it annually regardless of hours. Annual- conventional or blend. Hours- synthetic.
Anything other than engine oil- hours. You don't get much contamination in anything other than the engine oil unless it's through water intrusion.

 

[Boatman]

Ive been using these for a few years now. Also installed them on two neighbors machines. They work perfectly.

Kubota BX, BX Accessories - Botaproducts - Asheboro, North Carolina (bxtractorparts.com)

 

[DustyRusty]

I bought silicone rubber replacement boots on eBay. My tractor had a torn boot at 80 hours, and I explain it away as Kubota using materials that are not rugged enough to hold up to brush poking at them. Take your choice from below. I bought mine from www.Polyboots.com . Yes, it takes a little longer to get them, but it was worth the wait. I bought spares for the future to hedge my bet, and because of that, I will probably never need them, or they will be lost when I do need them!

Amazon.com: Kubota Inner and Outer Tie Rod Rubber Boot Kit Upgraded Style BX GR : Automotive

Buy Kubota Inner and Outer Tie Rod Rubber Boot Kit Upgraded Style BX GR: Tie Rod Ends - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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Amazon.com: Kubota BX,GR Poly Inner & Outer tie Rod Boots, bushings Upgrade & 1 yr Warranty : Automotive

Buy Kubota BX,GR Poly Inner & Outer tie Rod Boots, bushings Upgrade & 1 yr Warranty: Mount Bushings - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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Kubota BX GR Inner/Outer Tie Rod Poly Boots USA made not China copy 1 yr Wty | eBay

Kubota BX Inner & Outer Poly Tie Rod Boot Upgrade (4) boots total. BX1850,60,70,80,BX22,2200, 2230,2350,2360,2370,BX23,BX24,BX25,BX2380,BX23s,BX2670,BX2680 etc & All GR mowers. 2 Inner & 2 Outer left & right boots w/hardware.

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Ball Joint Boot 14x34x24 mm black - type 2

Material: Black Polyurethane, Hardness 65 Shore A Typical applications: Inner tie rod end for tractor Kubota BX This dust boot fit all BX series tractors: BX1870, BX2370, BX2670, BX22, or BX25 / 25D, etc.

polyboots.com

 

[bookemdano]

Ive been using these for a few years now. Also installed them on two neighbors machines. They work perfectly.

Kubota BX, BX Accessories - Botaproducts - Asheboro, North Carolina (bxtractorparts.com)

Thanks, I'll order a set today.
Dano

 

[DustyRusty]

Thanks, I'll order a set today.
Dano

You will save $5.45 if you order them from eBay. Same product, same seller. $19.50 vs. $24.95

 

[bookemdano]

You will save $5.45 if you order them from eBay. Same product, same seller. $19.50 vs. $24.95

That's what I did and the bottle was only about 1/3 full. The bottle had white paint around
the threads and one side and dye on the label in several places. No dye in the box. I believe
I got sold a bottle that had been used down to the 1/3 left in it and resold as an unopened
bottle. I emailed the seller but have not received a reply yet.
Dano

 

[Bugzilla46310]

I threw one of these in the fuel tank nozzle to keep debris out. Had to trim about 1/16 off the radius and not use the gasket shown in the photo to get a nice fit. Cheap insurance.

 

[jkrubi12]

Congrats on the new (to you) tractor, that's a nice machine.

Engine oil (and Kubota filter): Whatever you put in will likely be there for another 200 hours; I would recommend 15-40 full synthetic (Delvac Extreme at Walmart is about $22/gal, very nice oil). I wouldn't advise using 5W-40, even though it wouldn't hurt (sure does get cold in upstate NY).

Front axle: Definitely drain & replace the fluid. Your choice of 80W-90 is probably fine, just make sure it's fully drained before refilling. Personally, I would install Kubota SUDT2.

I advise on using the SUDT2 because I would also recommend draining the HST completely, installing new Kubota filters (there's 2, they are different) and refilling with SUDT2. Yep, Kubota HST fluid is somewhat expensive, but it's probably the best replacement fluid for your new tractor.

If you find yourself ordering Kubota filters, grab a fuel filter too. I would advise on putting good diesel in the tank with algae treatment & possibly another treatment (Howe's is great) then run that tank through and change the fuel filter. If there's any problems in the fuel tank hopefully fresh treated fuel will address it sufficiently, after which you can change the fuel filter.

Looks like your'e all set with info on the ball joint issue, good luck and welcome to the forum!

A couple of hundred bucks on quality stuff for a new tractor should ensure a great start to a long, trouble-free user experience

 

[DustyRusty]

My BX2680 has less than 150 hours and both ball joint covers are toast. If you find
some please let me know where.
Thanks
Dano

That's what I did and the bottle was only about 1/3 full. The bottle had white paint around the threads and one side and dye on the label in several places. No dye in the box. I believe I got sold a bottle that had been used down to the 1/3 left in it and resold as an unopened bottle. I emailed the seller but have not received a reply yet.
Dano

You asked about a ball joint cover, and that is what I replied with places where to purchase them. I have no idea what you are talking about when you mention dye. Dusty

 

[bookemdano]

You asked about a ball joint cover, and that is what I replied with places where to purchase them. I have no idea what you are talking about when you mention dye. Dusty

Sorry about that. Had another thread going about the UDT-2 in mt L3800
and putting a John Deere dye in it to make it show up better in the sight
window. Got them and was following this post too and got the 2 mixed up.
Easy to do when you hit 73.
Thanks for the info on the dust covers.
Dano

 

[DustyRusty]

If you get that easily confused at age 73, I don't know what you are going to be doing when you get to age 80! I just hope to be around to read about it.

 

[bookemdano]

If you get that easily confused at age 73, I don't know what you are going to be doing when you get to age 80! I just hope to be around to read about it.

The way doctors keep trying to kill me, I'll be lucky to live that long. 2yrs ago, Doc changed my BP
med. I reacted badly to it. He called an ambulance, trip to the ER. A night there trying to regulate
my BP and heart rate. Meds for on then meds for the other. My heart would stop beating for as
long as 13 seconds at a time. Never lost consciousness. ER Doc said I should be in a coma,
All the meds, the up and down BP and heart rate damaged my sinus node. After a week in
ICU I was stable enough for a pacemaker. Then it was a year of very cautious trials of different
meds to keep my BP and Heart rate stable. Still working on that.
Then last year, I had a colonoscopy. Doc botched that up and I nearly bled to death. Took
5 days of transfusion's in ICU with me bleeding out as fast as they could pump it in to
get my blood built up enough to go in and repair the damage. I'm a Vietnam combat
Vet, spent 41 yrs in law enforcement startin in 69 as a foot beat cop in Washington DC
and not much scares me but if a Doctor wants to do more talk to me anymore I get
real nervous.
Oh well, I hope you're around to read my ramblings when I'm 80 and beyond too.
Dano

 

[TRUCK3]

Thanks for all of the info - appreciate it. I think I'm going to use 15W-40 rather than the 10W-30. I will be keeping the tractor in the garage that I maintain typically no less than about 40F in the winter and at least right now, I don't plan on any cold winter operation. Most demanding use will be in the summer, so I figured a 15W-40 is the better choice.

Regarding the HST filters, it looks as though there is the spin-on style and then there is the screen you remove, clean and re-install? Do I have that right??

 

[DustyRusty]

That is correct.

 

[Bri-Guy-GA]

Congrats on the new (to you) tractor, that's a nice machine.

Engine oil (and Kubota filter): Whatever you put in will likely be there for another 200 hours; I would recommend 15-40 full synthetic (Delvac Extreme at Walmart is about $22/gal, very nice oil). I wouldn't advise using 5W-40, even though it wouldn't hurt (sure does get cold in upstate NY).

Front axle: Definitely drain & replace the fluid. Your choice of 80W-90 is probably fine, just make sure it's fully drained before refilling. Personally, I would install Kubota SUDT2.

I advise on using the SUDT2 because I would also recommend draining the HST completely, installing new Kubota filters (there's 2, they are different) and refilling with SUDT2. Yep, Kubota HST fluid is somewhat expensive, but it's probably the best replacement fluid for your new tractor.

If you find yourself ordering Kubota filters, grab a fuel filter too. I would advise on putting good diesel in the tank with algae treatment & possibly another treatment (Howe's is great) then run that tank through and change the fuel filter. If there's any problems in the fuel tank hopefully fresh treated fuel will address it sufficiently, after which you can change the fuel filter.

Looks like your'e all set with info on the ball joint issue, good luck and welcome to the forum!

A couple of hundred bucks on quality stuff for a new tractor should ensure a great start to a long, trouble-free user experience

I agree with the above with one correction. The BX has 2 fuel filters. One near the tank and one by the engine. I found genuine Kubota Filters on ebay a little cheaper then the dealer also.

Since you don' t know how well it was maintained go ahead and replace all the fluids including in the MMM and grease everything. I would also replace or at least sharpen the blades on both mowers and you basically have a new machine.

Good luck with it.