Widening a too narrow 3 point implement

[icehorse]

Pretty sure the QH15 has been replaced by the QH16. LP may have changed the design to be Cat1 IMPLEMENT compatible ?? May be worth a phone call to find out .

Well this will be a test for my local dealer. I just got the QH15 about 6 weeks ago, and told them right away that implements weren't fitting. And I'm about to buy a cutter from them, so we'll see how willing they are to work with me on the QH

 

[GreensvilleJay]

So I just downloaded the 'spec sheet' for the QH16...
good news, the implement side IS sized for CAT1 pins (7/8") NO 'spacers' needed.
bad news ,NO dimension for the width !!! WTH, THAT IS an important dimension !
probably the most important one.....
sigh...
so STILL can't tell from the 'documentation' IF it'll work for anyone.
Now from the pretty pictures, the implement side is inline the tractor ,but lower links all have adjustment unlike the implement pins,so really NO know dimension...

Someone needs to take a tape measure and do what LP should have done, measure and SAY what the width of opening is,or c/l of left link to c/l of right link.....

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I’d recom

rc51, gvjay, and bobinsd - thanks for your responses.

So the baling is done, the baler is unhooked (quite a chore), and I'm trying to get a solution now, while things are still fresh in what's left of my mind.

I have two approaches I'm focused on:

1 - Make longer bottom "pins" for the implement. The photo below shows my cheap steel mockup, which bent almost immediately (the green duct tape was my mock bushing). I've ordered grade 8, 8" x 3/4" bolts to see if I can make longer pins that are strong enough. If so, this effectively widens the width of the baler, so it'll fit on the QH15.

2 - Return my QH15 and get a set of the "Pat's QH". If I go this route, then I also want to effectively lengthen the toplink holders that are bolted to the tractor (by 3" or 4"). So I'm wondering if "longer" (from front to back) toplink holders are available? It appears that the "Pat's QH" would let me adjust the distance between the two bottom links easily for each implement, as opposed to having to make all the implements exactly fit the QH15.

View attachment 85650

The ‘Pats’ easily allows one to adjust the width on the lower link arms…it’s a game changer if you plan to use anything that that is non perfect fit to a QH or if you park stuff on non level ground….it’s way more forgiving if you have anything that sags or settles and you don’t need all three points to align at a single time. If that is helpful or of value, even if you can’t return the QH you could always keep and use to skid logs and or modify it to be an awesome 3pt receiver…it would actually be very modifiable…. I should have done that myself…instead I created a 3pt receiver / modular use skidder off the base of a cat 2 back blade…but you could very easy do something similar with a QH…anyway it would not be a total loss. Or you could keep and use the QH for things you have that fit with along with the pats…it’s just not a total write off is all I am saying. Here’s what I did but you could adapt the QH for your uses…

 

[Russell King]

I don’t think you will ever get long bolts that would work. You could probably get a larger diameter bar machined at one end as the pin and threaded internal hole at other end to bolt to the implement and replace the existing pins.

Do you really need the hydraulic adjustment on top link for a baler or is it a set and go situation so you can just leave a fixed top link on your baler?

 

[icehorse]

I don’t think you will ever get long bolts that would work. You could probably get a larger diameter bar machined at one end as the pin and threaded internal hole at other end to bolt to the implement and replace the existing pins.

Do you really need the hydraulic adjustment on top link for a baler or is it a set and go situation so you can just leave a fixed top link on your baler?

Yeah, I went ahead and ordered the Pat's QH.

As for the top link, sorry for any confusion, that's never been the issue - it's the two bottom links that I've been struggling with.

As for general use, I think I'll find a way to extend the tractor's top link holders a few inches towards the rear, and at that point I think I should be able to easily go from attachment to attachment.

I have a second hydraulic link in the rear, that allows me to tilt implements left or right. It's great for grading, but it was tricky for haying. So I think when it's haying season I'll swap that hydro out.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Ok, I'd like to know ,...
just what IS the baler's 'pin to pin dimension' ?

 

[icehorse]

Ok, I'd like to know ,...
just what IS the baler's 'pin to pin dimension' ?

I went back through this thread, because I thought I'd said that earlier. I'm slightly off the hook though because I did say earlier how wide the QH is and how long, long-enough bolts would be

But to answer the question directly: when I set the pins so the Cat I's are on the outside, it's 23 1/4".

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yeesh 23 inches , not even a close 'metric equal for the CAT 1 std of 26 inches,,,,
As a 'winter project', I'd modify the baler to CAT1 standard width (26" ?). maybe a section of 1.5x3 tubing or C-channel on each side. Welding is preferred but 3 stout nuts/locks/bolts per side could work.
Upgrading it to CAT1 standard means it's easily resold to anyone as it then FITS all tractors...

 

[Fladogman]

This type adapter provided the additional length I needed fit my QH15. Now all my older implements fit perfectly and they have a tighter fit.

 

[icehorse]

yeesh 23 inches , not even a close 'metric equal for the CAT 1 std of 26 inches,,,,
As a 'winter project', I'd modify the baler to CAT1 standard width (26" ?). maybe a section of 1.5x3 tubing or C-channel on each side. Welding is preferred but 3 stout nuts/locks/bolts per side could work.
Upgrading it to CAT1 standard means it's easily resold to anyone as it then FITS all tractors...

Reposting a picture from earlier (below). One of my not-haying-season projects will be to see if it's possible to swap the left hand and right hand, z-shaped pieces that hold the pins. I've measured the offsets and if it's not a nightmare to swap them, that would make it the correct width.

 

[Russell King]

Just for information
Where did you get the baler? From a dealer or an individual with a smaller size tractor?

I don’t know how big a tractor it takes to move or use a baler but it does look like it is set up for a narrow tractor to avoid hitting the rear tire in a tight turn.

Moving the arms side to side or turning the arms upside down will probably fix the problem you have. Does the owner’s manual talk about arm arrangement and spacing?

And does the baler just roll on wheels behind the implement so you are just adjusting the front to rear level with the arms? I don’t recall much about balers except to stay out of the way! And that small square bales are Not fun to collect and stack in a pole barn

 

[icehorse]

Just for information
Where did you get the baler? From a dealer or an individual with a smaller size tractor?

I don’t know how big a tractor it takes to move or use a baler but it does look like it is set up for a narrow tractor to avoid hitting the rear tire in a tight turn.

Moving the arms side to side or turning the arms upside down will probably fix the problem you have. Does the owner’s manual talk about arm arrangement and spacing?

And does the baler just roll on wheels behind the implement so you are just adjusting the front to rear level with the arms? I don’t recall much about balers except to stay out of the way! And that small square bales are Not fun to collect and stack in a pole barn

These balers are made in India. They're "supposed" to be the highest quality in this class of baler, and I have to say the thing is built like a tank. I'm very impressed with the build quality so far. It appears to me that all the manufacturers of these mini round balers are using the same basic design. Mostly it seems the design is good, there are a few things I think they could improve. I got mine from a dealer. There are a handful of dealers east of the Mississippi, I'm in Washington state and there are no dealers within 2000 miles of me.

Yes, the baler just rolls on wheels, but the wheels do not pivot. (I think the wheels should pivot!) So I either make very broad turns, or I lift the baler off the ground to maneuver. I can adjust the height of the baler by raising or lowering the bottom links or to some degree by adjusting the hydraulic toplink. Again, that hydraulic toplink really comes in handy.

The bales are around 50-60 pounds. MUCH easier to deal with than the 110 pound bales that seems standard in the west.

The owner's manual is funny (because of the translation to English), but not very informative, there is no mention of swapping the bottom pin arms.

 

[Russell King]

Thank you for the information

Good luck and you may want to call a dealer about the arm arrangement for information on how they can be arranged

 

[Fladogman]

Just for information
Where did you get the baler? From a dealer or an individual with a smaller size tractor?

I don’t know how big a tractor it takes to move or use a baler but it does look like it is set up for a narrow tractor to avoid hitting the rear tire in a tight turn.

Moving the arms side to side or turning the arms upside down will probably fix the problem you have. Does the owner’s manual talk about arm arrangement and spacing?

And does the baler just roll on wheels behind the implement so you are just adjusting the front to rear level with the arms? I don’t recall much about balers except to stay out of the way! And that small square bales are Not fun to collect and stack in a pole barn

Are you using the inside pins? If so can you reverse them and put them on the outside? It's not clear from the photo but it looks like it has dual pins

 

[icehorse]

Are you using the inside pins? If so can you reverse them and put them on the outside? It's not clear from the photo but it looks like it has dual pins

My bad. I took that picture before I reversed the pins. The cat I pins are now on the outside, and that pin to pin dimension is 23+inches.

 

[Fladogman]

My bad. I took that picture before I reversed the pins. The cat I pins are now on the outside, and that pin to pin dimension is 23+inches.

Ok, yeah I thought we had quick fix that was overlooked. You may consider getting a draw bar and welding it or bolting it on and doing away with the original pins

 

[GreensvilleJay]

On page 35 of the manual there's a 'good' drawing of the arms and it looks like you should be able to swap them, 4 sets of nuts and bolts ? Hopefully not an ordeal. It'd really help to have a 'parts breakdown/assembly' of it . Maybe contact the MFR to see if they'll send you one ? Before you begin though, be sure to take lots of pictures to use as a reference when reassembling the beastie !

 

[icehorse]

On page 35 of the manual there's a 'good' drawing of the arms and it looks like you should be able to swap them, 4 sets of nuts and bolts ? Hopefully not an ordeal. It'd really help to have a 'parts breakdown/assembly' of it . Maybe contact the MFR to see if they'll send you one ? Before you begin though, be sure to take lots of pictures to use as a reference when reassembling the beastie !

Yeah. The nuts are on the inside. If I can remove the nuts without having to have access to the other end of the bolts, it might work. But if I have to have access to the far ends of the bolts it turns into a real can of worms.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

removing them will be easy, it's where they FALL will be the problem.....

If you can get a box wrench (metric of course..) in there, add some duct tape over the wrench to 'stick' to the face of the nut.
when reattaching, use nuts(metric) with integral lock washer (flared out and nubby ).Once on,tightening the bolt will lock the nut firmly.

 

[icehorse]

removing them will be easy, it's where they FALL will be the problem.....

If you can get a box wrench (metric of course..) in there, add some duct tape over the wrench to 'stick' to the face of the nut.
when reattaching, use nuts(metric) with integral lock washer (flared out and nubby ).Once on,tightening the bolt will lock the nut firmly.

I have good access to the nuts and washers, and if they fall, they'll fall to the ground, no problem. The problem is the heads of the bolts. Getting access to the heads of the bolts is the "can of worms" project. So if I need to keep the bolts from spinning when I loosen the nuts, I don't think I'll go that route.