Hanix Mini Giant excavator?

[Lil Foot]

One of the teeth is loose, and I have (3) new teeth on hand, so I may pull these off, & put the new ones on, in the correct direction.

 

[Lil Foot]

Same stuff going on in my shop. View attachment 84246

Interesting worklight you have there on the mill- details, maybe a pic?

 

[woodman55]

Love all the pictures and have been following along on your adventure. Just out of curiosity, how much wear is there on the bottom of the bucket, mainly where the bottom starts to curl up into the back ? This is normally one of the highest wear areas on a bucket.

 

[Lil Foot]

Surprisingly, the bottom is not showing any excessive wear. The wall thickness of the bucket is pretty much the same on all sides.
I think that is because where it spent the majority of its life, the soil pretty much rock free.

 

[fried1765]

One of the teeth is loose, and I have (3) new teeth on hand, so I may pull these off, & put the new ones on, in the correct direction.

How are those teeth attached?
My Kubota TLB uses roll pins to hold the teeth, but I don't see any roll pin holes in your teeth.
My old Ford 3400 used a crimp on each side to hold teeth on, but I don't see crimps on your teeth.

 

[Lil Foot]

Yup, they are crimped.
My Kubota B670 uses the same style crimp, but the area that you have to deform is about .080 thick, and you can crimp ot tighten them with a round tip punch and a BFH.
The crimp area on these teeth is .190 thick, no way to use a hammer/punch, and I can't get it on my hydraulic press.
I will heat both sides of the crimp to cherry red, then use a ViseGrip c-clamp to crimp them on.

 

[Lil Foot]

Here are a couple shots of the B670 bucket teeth crimps.

 

[fried1765]

Here are a couple shots of the B670 bucket teeth crimps.

What is up with the nonconforming tooth and the bolt in it?

 

[Lil Foot]

That is a pic from a thread on removing the teeth from a backhoe bucket.

B670 Backhoe Buckets Revisited

Some of you may remember I placed an ad looking for a B670 backhoe bucket, or something similar I could adapt to fit. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29905&highlight=b670 I will be needing one without teeth for smoothing & contouring on a future job, and I'm reluctant...

www.orangetractortalks.com

That "nonconforming tooth and the bolt in it" is actually a clamp holding the bucket while the welds are being machined away.

 

[fried1765]

That is a pic from a thread on removing the teeth from a backhoe bucket.

B670 Backhoe Buckets Revisited

Some of you may remember I placed an ad looking for a B670 backhoe bucket, or something similar I could adapt to fit. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29905&highlight=b670 I will be needing one without teeth for smoothing & contouring on a future job, and I'm reluctant...

www.orangetractortalks.com

That "nonconforming tooth and the bolt in it" is actually a clamp holding the bucket while the welds are being machined away.

Thank you for the explanation!

 

[Lil Foot]

I need some opinions, especially from you practical & career engineer types.
As an experiment, I took the worst worn bucket pin, and turned it to clean up.
Now, I can make custom bushings to fit the bored oversize ears on the bucket, and to fit the reduced diameter pins.
My question is:
Are the reduced diameter pins going to be too small? (I.E. weak, likely to bend?)
The nominal diameter was originally 1.181", reduced diameter is 1.088", a 7.8% reduction.
The new bushings will have a lot more bearing surface, as they were surprisingly short, and would be easy to lengthen.
The pins appear to be induction hardened in the load bearing area, and soft out where the cross bolt hole is. (see pics)
My B670 backhoe has 1.000" diameter mild steel pins, but it is a smaller machine.

2nd pic shows a black spot up near the chuck, approx .002" dp, that didn't clean up.

 

[fried1765]

I need some opinions, especially from you practical & career engineer types.
As an experiment, I took the worst worn bucket pin, and turned it to clean up.
Now, I can make custom bushings to fit the bored oversize ears on the bucket, and to fit the reduced diameter pins.
My question is:
Are the reduced diameter pins going to be too small? (I.E. weak, likely to bend?)
The nominal diameter was originally 1.181", reduced diameter is 1.088", a 7.8% reduction.
The new bushings will have a lot more bearing surface, as they were surprisingly short, and would be easy to lengthen.
The pins appear to be induction hardened in the load bearing area, and soft out where the cross bolt hole is. (see pics)
My B670 backhoe has 1.000" diameter mild steel pins, but it is a smaller machine.

2nd pic shows a black spot, approx .002" dp, that didn't clean up.

View attachment 84353 View attachment 84354 View attachment 84355

It is only an opinion/guess, but with thoughts from my strength of materials classes of 60+ years ago, I think you will be fine.

 

[torch]

It seems to me that the boom pins (especially the one closest to the machine) are subject to the greatest loads. So if they are the same diameter (originally) as the bucket pins then the bucket pins are probably oversized to begin with. So I don't see a problem with slightly smaller pins in the bucket.

At the same time, I suspect that the bucket pins are the most likely to wear. They are the ones in intimate contact with the dirt and water if the grease layer fails. I would consider case-hardening the pins after turning them down using Kasinit or similar. And perhaps the bushings as well, unless you are making them from a hardenable steel like O1 or 4140.

 

[Lil Foot]

t is only an opinion/guess, but with thoughts from my strength of materials classes of 60+ years ago, I think you will be fine.

So if they are the same diameter (originally) as the bucket pins then the bucket pins are probably oversized to begin with. So I don't see a problem with slightly smaller pins in the bucket.

Those were my thoughts exactly, but wanted some unbiased opinions before I stated them.

I would consider case-hardening the pins after turning them down

They are pretty hard as they are; very near the point the point of being too hard to machine without diamond tooling. It ate one carbide insert just turning the one pin, although the outboard end was quite soft. You can see the difference in the surface finish.

 

[Lil Foot]

Also I should say that this is not going to see commercial use, probably low digging hours, and certainly no abuse by me, especially after all this work.

And I don't loan or rent my equipment out.

 

[torch]

They are pretty hard as they are; very near the point the point of being too hard to machine without diamond tooling. It ate one carbide insert just turning the one pin, although the outboard end was quite soft. You can see the difference in the surface finish.

The outboard end is where the most wear is? Maybe through case hardening? Or do you think the whole pin was made from a hardenable material that wasn't hardened evenly at the ends?

 

[Dieseldonato]

1 inch pins will be fine. You can re harden them pretty easily. There are quite a few case hardening products out there. The one I'm most familiar with is called cherry red. Not nearly as good as sending them out for heat treatment, but works well for the home shop. A larger bearing surface will also help with wear. I suspect with your intended use you will have little real issues with them.

 

[torch]

you will have little real issues with them.

He won't -- but the next guy is really gonna be confused...

 

[Dieseldonato]

He won't -- but the next guy is really gonna be confused...

Not his problem after it leaves his care lol. Really with "off brand" equipment like this, it's pretty typical to have to be creative to keep them going. I've been very impressed with the op's for being able to source so many original parts.

 

[Lil Foot]

The outboard end is where the most wear is? Maybe through case hardening? Or do you think the whole pin was made from a hardenable material that wasn't hardened evenly at the ends?

I believe the whole pin was made from the same material, but only induction hardened where the bushings bear, and not out on the end where it is "keyed" to the hub by an 8mm bolt.
(see annotated pic)
You can see the same wear patterns on both bucket pins.
Pin is supposed to be keyed to bucket, so there should be no rotation, therefore no wear at the bucket walls or the keyed hub area. (red & green arrows) (or at least negligible)
The bushings that are in the hub wear on the two blue arrow areas. (the only places there should be any wear)
The yellow arrow area shows no wear, it contacts nothing.
The black areas denote a gap between the bucket and the hub.
If the pins/bushings hadn't been neglected so long, most of the damage would not be here.
I hope I made it clear. If not ask away!
(I am not impressed with the drawing program I have these days.)