I think Neil Messick has a YouTube on flails. The finish is pretty good on rough terrain in his video. There's a guy in Canada with an LX (forget his name) who runs one and did lengthy videos on how it goes. The finish he was getting is pretty good on finish mowing, and better than a rotary cutter on pasture. And they're much nicer to use I gather - don't stick out so far behind the tractor, so less likely to bang into stuff, and also less leverage so less pitching of the tractor up and down.
L2501 Buying Advice
- Thread starter KubotaRGVman
- Start date
Good day. I see you are thinking about land/livestock…awesome. Do you have any idea how much more land you might be considering? Or the types of features you like it to have? Might suggest future uses so you can try to just buy one tractor…good luck, they are like potato chips.
. You may not be able to avoid having multiples machines depending on how much property/work you ultimately want to do. So another thought would be what do you want equipment wise when you have more property? If you can forecast future tasks and implements you might need it might nudge you one way or a another between machines…Do you plan to use the tractor and forks for material / feed handling? It might be helpful to consider how you will be receiving / handling the feed whether that is bags on pallets, round bales. Also in your area I suspect water can be an issue…will you need to haul water? Feed and water are all pretty heavy. Lifting those just off the ground is one thing, lifting off a trailer or truck bed is something different. Implements off the PTO will be fine so long as sized appropriately for your machine….so PTO power no such an issue, but weight and stance of the machine is what will give traction and ability to lift stuff. Just my thoughts. I am not sure i helped or not.The L2501 with HST has the steering brakes on the wrong side. I'd vote for an LX2610 with cab. Don't know whether you can get the SU with a cab since you're not using a mid PTO. The LXs apparently have HST whine. The B2601 has no HST whine. Maybe get one and put a canopy over it.
Flail mowers can have blades or hammers and can be finish mowers or not. There are a lot of videos on YouTube that shows what the finish looks like. From what I understand, you can use a wider/longer flail mower than a rotary cutter or finish mower for the same HP tractor.
Although strange, in practice, few people use turning brakes. It is odd, but brakes on the same side as the treadle isn’t really an issue if you have reasonable size feet, it is no issue to reach the brakes that are just above the long treadle pedal. I don’t think it is at all a reason to choose a LX that has a shorter loader.
If you plan to do any larger bales, you definitely should consider at least a L3560LE and go with the optional stronger loader that is roughly 1 1/2s the lift as the L. An MX that can life twice as much as the L would be even better.
Although strange, in practice, few people use turning brakes. It is odd, but brakes on the same side as the treadle isn’t really an issue if you have reasonable size feet, it is no issue to reach the brakes that are just above the long treadle pedal. I don’t think it is at all a reason to choose a LX that has a shorter loader.
If you plan to do any larger bales, you definitely should consider at least a L3560LE and go with the optional stronger loader that is roughly 1 1/2s the lift as the L. An MX that can life twice as much as the L would be even better.
The L2501 will not have any issues on flat land, with any of the tasks you’ve listed.
You say no obstacles, but are you planning on mowing around the house with the tractor? If so, that may be your only issue getting in and around tight spaces.
Mike
The 02 series (L3302) has the steering brakes on the right side. Presumably there'll be an L2502 soon as well.
On flat land it may not matter much.
Need steering brakes when moving snow, even on flat areas. Also occasionally need steering brakes when pushing large objects that won't go into the FEL but with the FEL. Need to be able to use HST and brakes. Kubota just didn't change them from what they had for gear model. Just slapped HST pedal in front of the brakes.
Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
LX2610 is right in between the B2601 and the L2501 As far as size. They might be harder to get though. Good luck with your decision!
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
What do you think field operations are? Pushing snow is a "field operation".
The manual is referring to the difference between high speed operations or roading the tractor vs. braking to steer a tractor at a low speed.
Agree.
I had switched from square bales to round and bought a L3240 w/ the larger loader thinking that it would be sufficient . The area where I kept my bales had a slight slope.
After about two weeks and almost rolling the machine a few times, I sold it and bought a larger tractor.
Even with loaded tires and a counterweight it wasn't stable when I stacked bales or lifted them more than a foot or so off the ground..
I think your hopes of owning a tractor that acts as a lawn mower and a round bale mover is to far- ranging.
Attachments
Field operation as in working in a “field”. By your definition, everything is field operation which would mean the term didn’t need to be added to their text.
The dictionary defines field as
an area of open land, especially one planted with crops or pasture, typically bounded by hedges or fences. "a wheat field"”
Yes, the manual also refers to roading the tractor which is including in text I included.
Fwiw, I’m not the operations police, but seems reasonable to point out what the manual says.
jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Too many first time buyers (myself included) don’t fully understand the importance of stability and tractor weight, and they focus on HP. After living with a lightweight, unstable machine for too many years, I sold it and bought a MX. I really appreciate the stability of this machine. I wouldn’t own anything smaller for moving bales or any serious loader work. My tires are filled and I attach my 1000# blade for any heavy lifting.
^^^^
Tractor weight and tire size is so important. I was one of the victims of buying too small originally. I’m happy with the L2501 and it’s probably the perfect size for my use and property.
But, I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again…tractors shrink when you get them home. And in my case, I could easily have an MX on my property.
Mike
Tractor weight and tire size is so important. I was one of the victims of buying too small originally. I’m happy with the L2501 and it’s probably the perfect size for my use and property.
But, I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again…tractors shrink when you get them home. And in my case, I could easily have an MX on my property.
Mike
great choice... this is one helluva tractor!
the only problem ive had in 3yrs (~325hrs) of ownership is the mechanical tach cable broke, other than that its been problem free. l2501 has a 8yr track record of proven reliability.
@PaulL gave some good advice on HST vs DT. for mowing go HST. i chose the DT, 80% of my work is clearing and ground work. i hire out for big projects, i know the tractors limits. i have r4's, i shortcut on my lawn (bermuda) all the time, no ruts. just stay off it when wet.
i chose the 12501 for several reasons,
1) budget
2) weight, 4000# with loader and box blade.
3) basic tractor, DT is 1950 design. N series are some of the best tractors ever produced.
4) modification (HP), the D1703 is a detuned ~37hp engine. you can easily get ~32hp engine and ~26hp PTO. did mine after warranty expired, luv'n it!
5) NO DPF, DEF or regens!
good luck on your purchase!
the only problem ive had in 3yrs (~325hrs) of ownership is the mechanical tach cable broke, other than that its been problem free. l2501 has a 8yr track record of proven reliability.
@PaulL gave some good advice on HST vs DT. for mowing go HST. i chose the DT, 80% of my work is clearing and ground work. i hire out for big projects, i know the tractors limits. i have r4's, i shortcut on my lawn (bermuda) all the time, no ruts. just stay off it when wet.
i chose the 12501 for several reasons,
1) budget
2) weight, 4000# with loader and box blade.
3) basic tractor, DT is 1950 design. N series are some of the best tractors ever produced.
4) modification (HP), the D1703 is a detuned ~37hp engine. you can easily get ~32hp engine and ~26hp PTO. did mine after warranty expired, luv'n it!
5) NO DPF, DEF or regens!
good luck on your purchase!