BX2680 Engine Mowing RPM 54” deck

[Bugzilla46310]

New tractor, read the manuals but did not see a recommended engine speed for mowing. Being new, don’t want to run the engine too hard for a while. Seems not to lift the grass and give a nice cut all the time, mainly on finer grass blades. I’ve been cutting between about 2200 and 2500 rpm’s. Only 8 hours on it. Live in the country, sandy, slight hills and not good turf, except around the house. Mow about 3 acres.

 

[Mowbizz]

New tractor, read the manuals but did not see a recommended engine speed for mowing. Being new, don’t want to run the engine too hard for a while. Seems not to lift the grass and give a nice cut all the time, mainly on finer grass blades. I’ve been cutting between about 2200 and 2500 rpm’s. Only 8 hours on it. Live in the country, sandy, slight hills and not good turf, except around the house. Mow about 3 acres.

I would mow at 3000 rpm with my bx 25d 60”…better cut and more power for high gear. As they say, break it in like you are going to use it.

 

[85Hokie]

Well, many will tell you 18 ways to skin a deere ..... yes E at the end.......

but since it is new, I would run it not WOT ( I would stay below max rpm) for a while.

I am one that advocates running the machine WHERE THE MANUFACTURER designed it ......... thus the 540 pto on your Tach.

Some if not many have this "feeling" that running it a hair above idle saves the engine stress and will make the engine last longer........... Running the engine at the designed torque and HP curves make sense from a engineering stand point but many know so much more than those engineers that designed the engine in the first place

As for fuel usage - most of these machines actually can use a little less diesel at 2k than at 1k - not enough to matter, but there is always the argument to save fuel.

You will find that the machine will cut BETTER at and around the PTO label - on your machine I believe it is closer to 3,400 rpms.

 

[Dieseldonato]

Rings need dynamic load to properly break in, which mean the engine needs put to work. Your cam broke in in the first 20 minutes of use. Actually your rings most likely did as well. Run it at the correct pto rpm and mow grass with it.

 

[Fordtech86]

Rings need dynamic load to properly break in, which mean the engine needs put to work. Your cam broke in in the first 20 minutes of use. Actually your rings most likely did as well. Run it at the correct pto rpm and mow grass with it.

Having prepped many new vehicles as a 16 yr old kid I agree they were broke in upon delivery

 

[Dieseldonato]

Having prepped many new vehicles as a 16 yr old kid I agree they were broke in upon delivery

I've rebuilt and dynoed a lot of engines, pussy footing around was never done unless needed. Pretty much new cam. Other then that they got warmed up and load put on them. Typically 4 hr dyno sessions. That go easy on it crap is a warranty cop out. It's either gonna work or not, and yes it's that simple.

 

[Fordtech86]

I've rebuilt and dynoed a lot of engines, pussy footing around was never done unless needed. Pretty much new cam. Other then that they got warmed up and load put on them. Typically 4 hr dyno sessions. That go easy on it crap is a warranty cop out. It's either gonna work or not, and yes it's that simple.

priming the oil pump isn’t even mentioned in our shop manuals from the manufacturer upon engine replacement. Fire them up dry

 

[Dieseldonato]

priming the oil pump isn’t even mentioned in our shop manuals from the manufacturer upon engine replacement. Fire them up dry

Between assembly lube and the pressure pot, you typically saw oil pressure before the fuel system was properly blead of air. Don't know how mfg prime oil systems, or if they even bother. It was just one of the things the owner made us do.

 

[Mlarv]

I have the same setup. Run the RPM's up to the PTO setting on the gauge. Lower mower than engage it. Don't engage it at lower RPM's it will lug the engine really bad DAMHIK.