No flow diverter valve for three point cylinder on B7100 HST?

[Broncbob]

I don’t have a flow diverter valve for the three point cylinder on my tractor. Is the valve a option that my tractor didn’t come with? I don’t know what year the tractor is, but it is later than any S/N I can find on line.

 

[TheOldHokie]

View attachment 81184
I don’t have a flow diverter valve for the three point cylinder on my tractor. Is the valve a option that my tractor didn’t come with? I don’t know what year the tractor is, but it is later than any S/N I can find on line.

Can't answer your question but what are you trying to accomplish

Dan

 

[Broncbob]

Can't answer your question but what are you trying to accomplish

Dan

I’m exploring the idea of a hydraulic top link.

 

[Dave_eng]

Go to kubotabooks.com
Kubotabooks
Download the B7100 WSM. Go to page 302 out of 355.
I have attached the most important page dealing with the hydraulic block.
Assuming you want to add additional hydraulic circuits this is the way to go.
Once you get some additional knowledge start searching the forum for the source for the new style hydraulic block cover. Others have posted this important info previously but I cannot find it right now
Dave

p.s. found the pages. Item #8 is the key part to find

 

[TheOldHokie]

I’m exploring the idea of a hydraulic top link.

You just need the hydraulic outlet cover which gives you ports for hooking up an auxiliary valve.

Dan

 

[Broncbob]

You just need the hydraulic outlet cover which gives you ports for hooking up an auxiliary valve.

Dan

Mine is already in use for the FEL

 

[TheOldHokie]

Mine is already in use for the FEL

Then you daisy chain any additional valves off the loader valve. You can connect as many valves as you want one right after the other.

Dan

 

[kubotasam]

View attachment 81184
I don’t have a flow diverter valve for the three point cylinder on my tractor. Is the valve a option that my tractor didn’t come with? I don’t know what year the tractor is, but it is later than any S/N I can find on line.

Yes it was an option to get that diverter valve. Using that would be very cumbersome. When turned the 3 point hitch will not operate. So you would have either have use of 3 point or your rear remotes.

TheOldHokie is telling you the best method to add the rear remotes.

 

[Broncbob]

Then you daisy chain any additional valves off the loader valve. You can connect as many valves as you want one right after the other.

Dan

I have very limited knowledge of hydraulics, but I’m going to go with my limited knowledge, and say I would need a open center control valve, and I pick up fluid from the return side of the FEL valve, and return back into the block? I’m guessing that I would need a pressure relief valve on the top link valve as well, and it would T into the pressure relief valve line from the FEL control block? Or would that cause issues? I wouldn’t think so, but limited knowledge being what it is, limited.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have very limited knowledge of hydraulics, but I’m going to go with my limited knowledge, and say I would need a open center control valve, and I pick up fluid from the return side of the FEL valve, and return back into the block? I’m guessing that I would need a pressure relief valve on the top link valve as well, and it would T into the pressure relief valve line from the FEL control block? Or would that cause issues? I wouldn’t think so, but limited knowledge being what it is, limited.

No - the tractor alfeady has a pressure relief in the circuit. All you need is a new control valve with a power beyond port. Connect it as follows:

1. Disconnect the existung power beyond from loader valve at the hydraulic block and move it to IN on the new valve.
2. Connect power beyond port on new valve to hydraulic block
3. Install a tee in existing tank return line of loader valve and connect tank port on new valve to tee.

Dan