Clueless new owner of L3200 with many questions

[Rich66]

Hi,
Having never had a garden before and never owning even a flymo in the past I now find myself with 4 acres and a Kubota L3200.

Enormously grateful if anyone would be patient enough to explain what are going to be obvious and stupid questions.

1. It looks like the hydraulic oil level is a bit low and it only just edges onto the sight glass. Problem is that where I expected to find the filler there is something attached by hydraulic hose to this. (See photo).

What does this do and with it seemingly permanently plumbed in how do I top up the hydraulic fluid?

2. When I use the grass cutter should I lift the deck as I turn or not bother?

3. It seems to cut okay at slightly lower revs than where the PTO is marked as being 540rpm should I always run it at the PTO marker even if it is cutting okay.

4. It was last serviced Feb 2021 but has only done 18 hours since then. Is it worth the bother of servicing now?

5. The grass cutter is a bit rusty underneath, is it worth perhaps power washing it and using some rust treatment on it?

6. Where are the best places to order fluids and filters from etc.

Sorry to barge in as a new forumite and be so immediately needy.

 

[Ikc1990]

Welcome, and #2 no, #3 yes,#4 if fluids look ok you might be ok but also i believe in trust no one on oh it was serviced this time and date...#5 probly not a bad idea to clean and even paint#6 local dealer or messicks,

 

[NCL4701]

Agree with Ikc1990.

In regard to question 1, couple of things:

1. Go here: http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Tractor Owners Manuals/&AutoIndex=2ff6cab7f5dddbf6bc8537359f602bbf
   
   Find L3200 WSM on the page and download it. You’ll need it.
2. I’m not sure where you’re thinking the fill for the hydraulic tank is based on the photo of the right fender and rear remotes. Regardless, the WSM Shows it being just above the toplink connection on the differential housing.
   
3. Edit: Just reread your post and saw you asked what those things on the fender are. Those are hydraulic remotes. You can attach a hydraulic cylinder to them via hydraulic quick connects to control a cylinder on an implement, hydraulic toplink, etc. Each hydraulic cylinder requires two connections so you have enough to control one cylinder.

 

[Rich66]

Welcome, and #2 no, #3 yes,#4 if fluids look ok you might be ok but also i believe in trust no one on oh it was serviced this time and date...#5 probly not a bad idea to clean and even paint#6 local dealer or messicks,

thank you

 

[Rich66]

Agree with Ikc1990.

In regard to question 1, couple of things:

1. Go here: http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Tractor Owners Manuals/&AutoIndex=2ff6cab7f5dddbf6bc8537359f602bbf
   
   Find L3200 WSM on the page and download it. You’ll need it.
2. I’m not sure where you’re thinking the fill for the hydraulic tank is based on the photo of the right fender and rear remotes. Regardless, the WSM Shows it being just above the toplink connection on the differential housing. View attachment 76361
3. Edit: Just reread your post and saw you asked what those things on the fender are. Those are hydraulic remotes. You can attach a hydraulic cylinder to them via hydraulic quick connects to control a cylinder on an implement, hydraulic toplink, etc. Each hydraulic cylinder requires two connections so you have enough to control one cylinder.

Hi,
Thanks for the info much appreciated. I've got the WSM but the hydraulic remotes mentioned are plumbed into the hole where the hydraulic fluid top up is. I was reluctant to start at it with a spanner without knowing whether I was tinkering with something I shouldn't.

 

[NCL4701]

Hi,
Thanks for the info much appreciated. I've got the WSM but the hydraulic remotes mentioned are plumbed into the hole where the hydraulic fluid top up is. I was reluctant to start at it with a spanner without knowing whether I was tinkering with something I shouldn't. View attachment 76363

Ah! That makes sense. One the hoses feeding the valve for the rear remote is pressure. The other side is return to tank. Whoever plumbed the valve used the fill port as the tank return. You’ll have to take it out to add fluid to the tank. It shouldn’t be much more involved than removing the original fill cap.

 

[Rich66]

Ah! That makes sense. One the hoses feeding the valve for the rear remote is pressure. The other side is return to tank. Whoever plumbed the valve used the fill port as the tank return. You’ll have to take it out to add fluid to the tank. It shouldn’t be much more involved than removing the original fill cap.

got it, thanks, just need to buy a spanner big enough. The biggest I have is about 5 mm shy.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: 5. The grass cutter is a bit rusty underneath, is it worth perhaps power washing it and using some rust treatment on it?

YES ! Spend the time and pain to remove as much grass clippings as possible,rinse, let dry. You should do this after every cutting, if possible. Leaving wet grass on the deck WILL rust it out,only a matter of time.
I know we all don't do it..I've seen 5 year old decks GONE, 30 year old ones ,almost new . Try to always cut grass mid-late afternoon NEVER in the morning(dew) or after a rain storm(really wet).

A rust treatment may help,depends on how often you cut and clean.Some on the top of deck would be nice.

 

[Rich66]

re: 5. The grass cutter is a bit rusty underneath, is it worth perhaps power washing it and using some rust treatment on it?

YES ! Spend the time and pain to remove as much grass clippings as possible,rinse, let dry. You should do this after every cutting, if possible. Leaving wet grass on the deck WILL rust it out,only a matter of time.
I know we all don't do it..I've seen 5 year old decks GONE, 30 year old ones ,almost new . Try to always cut grass mid-late afternoon NEVER in the morning(dew) or after a rain storm(really wet).

A rust treatment may help,depends on how often you cut and clean.Some on the top of deck would be nice.

Hi,
Thanks, it is well used so the issue with rust treatment could be getting back to the bare surface to apply it. Perhaps a power wash might be a good start, I've spent an hour with a scraper digging out clumps of matted grass from who knows how many years ago.

 

[Tughill Tom]

Hi,
Thanks, it is well used so the issue with rust treatment could be getting back to the bare surface to apply it. Perhaps a power wash might be a good start, I've spent an hour with a scraper digging out clumps of matted grass from who knows how many years ago.

Find someone local who sand blasts and coats, it will come home looking like new.

 

[bbxlr8]

Welcome! Here's another perspective. I have a 60" mmm and just did the service on it for the upcoming season. It is 38 years old and I have owned it for 22. In general & per above, I went through all of the service when I got it, fluids, filters grease, sharpen etc.

Specific to the deck: It depends on the level of rust. My first reaction is to just run it as use will take care of a lot if it is just surface flash. It is the bottom that we are talking about right? Also, It should not need to be lifted at all when turning as that defeats the purpose.

IF you pull it and want it as nice as possible on a budget and without outside help: I scrape, power wash, & when dry use a cup wire brush on a cordless drill. Then prime with an etching primer and paint. Because it is the unseen underside, I check the paint shelf and use whatever I have the most leftover of. Rustoleum silver works well for me as it shows where you have issues the next time... I only do this every so often and DEFINITELY not every year. I also don't clean after use as that doesn't work in my world.

 

[Rich66]

Welcome! Here's another perspective. I have a 60" mmm and just did the service on it for the upcoming season. It is 38 years old and I have owned it for 22. In general & per above, I went through all of the service when I got it, fluids, filters grease, sharpen etc.

Specific to the deck: It depends on the level of rust. My first reaction is to just run it as use will take care of a lot if it is just surface flash. It is the bottom that we are talking about right? Also, It should not need to be lifted at all when turning as that defeats the purpose.

IF you pull it and want it as nice as possible on a budget and without outside help: I scrape, power wash, & when dry use a cup wire brush on a cordless drill. Then prime with an etching primer and paint. Because it is the unseen underside, I check the paint shelf and use whatever I have the most leftover of. Rustoleum silver works well for me as it shows where you have issues the next time... I only do this every so often and DEFINITELY not every year. I also don't clean after use as that doesn't work in my world.

Thanks for taking the time to reply and thanks for the insights. It's good to get things confirmed by a long time owner. Rich