LX2610 Tire sizes

Old_Paint

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It all comes down to your expected uses as you did an excellent job of explaining. To some, the increased turning radius may not be worth the added ground clearance and extra room for liquid ballast, but for others it may. Since I have the MMM, it made my decision an easy one as there was only one option.
Yup, and yours is the perfect decision for you. I too considered the MMM, but wasn't interested in turf tires to be able to replace my lawn tractor and not tear up the lawn. I wanted something that I knew was gonna pull when I wanted it to, which meant a bar lug tire and stay off the 'grass'. I was quite impressed with how little damage the R14's do to the lawn, though. Until I got silly and drove it on the yard after a prolonged soaking rain. Oops.

Funny, but my little lawn tractor (22HP) has nearly as much HP as the LX(24.5 HP). I'm pretty sure it ain't gonna hold the LX a candle for pulling, though.
 
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802Driver

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LX2610SU 60" Bucket Land Pride54" Box Blade Farm King 4572 Rear Blade
May 18, 2020
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If there's a torque issue, I haven't noticed it. The larger wheel/tire width/diameter certainly adds a lot of rear ballast weight if you have them filled, and that ballast won't affect your FEL or 3PH capacity at all. If I was having a tractor drag race, then maybe I'd worry about the slight difference made by the larger tires and heavier ballast, but considering ground clearance and weight was my target, they're perfect for me. I'm not sure that more ground torque is going to help if I already have enough to stall the engine or spin all four tires on flat dry soil when pulling something stubborn. You'll just spin your smaller tires sooner because you don't have the mass for the traction despite having a slightly higher torque applied at the ground. What's the point of having another 10 or 20 ft-lbs if the tractor doesn't have the mass to use it? The larger, heavier, wider tire is going to work a little better on softer surfaces simply because it has more tread contact with that surface. if you're on a hard flat surface, it isn't likely that a lot of torque is going to be needed because you typically aren't pulling anything hard to move on such a surface. I'm pretty sure I'll run out of engine RPM (governor) long before I run out of the additional horsepower needed if I'm driving at top speed. I don't operate on the road (requires a tag and STRICTLY on-road diesel in Alabama if you do). I'm not sure I'd want to be at top speed on a little tractor anyway. It ain't a Ferrari, and running that fast with lifted loads (the county/state frowns on dragging attachments down the road) is probably not the wisest choice of operation. Stability? They're big, they're fat, and they're HEAVY. Despite raising the COG sligthly, the additional weight/width seems to compensate for that increase quite nicely. At first, I was a little worried about the height, but have found it to be less of a factor than I feared because of the weight. As far as turning radius is concerned, I'm quite pleased with what I have. I have too many obstacles to worry about it being a problem anyway, and worse come to worst, there's always a cutting brake maneuver. That's why I have two brake pedals, isn't it? My preference isn't for everyone, but I can't see why someone that doesn't have the big tires would call them a disadvantage. I don't think I'll run out of enough torque to climb any incline I'd dare put the tractor on, and since I don't get in any tractor races, I'm not sure the increased speed is gonna benefit me either. It has three ranges, after all, and the Low Range will make it plenty strong on any terrain. I might be able to outrun you in Low range, but is that an advantage? Not in my opinion, unless Low Range Drag Racing is the objective. That isn't what I bought a tractor for.

The ONE possible disadvantage that I've found so far is that the 3PH links seem to be a bit short, and lift my box blade going over even a slight crown (front to rear) and will actually aggravate that crown and wants to create small hills instead of levelling. Pushing backward a couple times, or skimming with the FEL usually resolves that problem, though. I do like the ground clearance because I have MANY stumps and holes on my property (which I intend to remedy) as well as some pretty rough terrain that I don't want to get hung on as I progress with my landscaping projects.

The large R14's were my decision at no extra cost because I originally wanted to put the BH77 on it. I wanted all the help I can get to avoid dragging it when loading/unloading from my trailer. If you don't want them or don't need the features they offer, then they're not for you, but I don't think that makes them any kind of disadvantage. Lack of need is not a disadvantage, and I can't imagine you not being able to pull anything with a LX2610 in normal applications for a compact tractor. If you can't pull whatever you're trying to move because of tire size, you probably needed a bigger tractor, especially if you're going to be doing that on a regular basis.
Man oh man, you could have ended at your first sentence, lol. Unless you're talking face to face, sure as shit something always gets lost in either a text or answering in written form. In any event, if I can take anything away from this, I say the R14 tires were an excellent choice.
 

Old_Paint

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Man oh man, you could have ended at your first sentence, lol. Unless you're talking face to face, sure as shit something always gets lost in either a text or answering in written form. In any event, if I can take anything away from this, I say the R14 tires were an excellent choice.
Sorry, I do ramble a bit when I want to explain myself. Old engineering habit created by writing a lot of testing reports. There seemed to be a lot of "advantage" and "disadvantage" speak, and if someone is thinking that the larger R14's is going to make a significant difference in their tractor's power, nah, won't do it. Like I said, if there's a difference, I can't feel it. Hope I never do, LOL. The SU is a beast with big feet. I can't see not getting the big tires on an SU, but that's just my preference and suits my needs. I would recommend spacers, though. It's TIGHT under those fenders. But, if we all were exactly the same and wanted the same things, the world would be pretty boring.
 
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MidwestGuy

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LX2610 EA55
Dec 6, 2020
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Thanks Again for all of the help, I hope I can add to the knowledge base when the time comes.
I'm going with the smaller tires, mainly because I still want the mower, and as soon as I put the big tires on someone is going to post a 60" MMM for sale cheap!

Now the waiting game, dealer is trying to get a backhoe, they are a decent size dealer so hopefully he can make it happen.

Bob M
 
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SDT

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Sorry, I do ramble a bit when I want to explain myself. Old engineering habit created by writing a lot of testing reports. There seemed to be a lot of "advantage" and "disadvantage" speak, and if someone is thinking that the larger R14's is going to make a significant difference in their tractor's power, nah, won't do it. Like I said, if there's a difference, I can't feel it. Hope I never do, LOL. The SU is a beast with big feet. I can't see not getting the big tires on an SU, but that's just my preference and suits my needs. I would recommend spacers, though. It's TIGHT under those fenders. But, if we all were exactly the same and wanted the same things, the world would be pretty boring.
Don't remember saying anything about "power" difference.

SDT
 

Old_Paint

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Don't remember saying anything about "power" difference.

SDT
You didn't say that, someone else did. I wrote what I said based on several comments. The other person said it would take more HP to roll the tractor down the highway with bigger tires, and even more if they're filled. While accelerating, correct, until wind drag and friction are the only thing holding the tractor back, or the grade becomes steep enough, I guess. But that's normally why we have multiple ranges (gear ratio selections), yes? If wind drag is an issue on a tractor, you're doin' it wrong.
 

methos123

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NJTool is correct. You cannot have the big tires if you want to run the MMM. My dealer told me they were not an option on the non-SU models. I have the big R-14's, and they make the SU look all growed up, rivalling the size of the L3900. The larger tires were largely intended to raise the tractor up to accommodate the departure angle for the backhoe option. With a backhoe subframe, you can't have the MMM either. I would still get the R-14's in your case if you're planning on mowing with it. I've been all over my yard with my SU with loaded tires, and unless I turn sharply in 4x4 (why would I even use 4x4 on a lawn?), I don't harm the grass. But, when needed, they're plenty aggressive. I can't put my hand between the rolled fender edge and the top of the tire, and I have pretty small hands. I could definitely use some wheel spacers because the front tires/wheels are also larger, making the whole thing nearly 5 inches taller, meaning the COG was raised by that same 5 inches. Makes for a little pucker factor if you get it leaning to one side. I will definitely keep the FEL as low as possible any time I'm moving.
Hi there, I am curious if having the bigger tires raises your effective loader lift height? I assume that it would, but you know what they say about assuming...lol The lx3310 has a lift height of 84", and the 5" extra with the bigger tires should mean I could lift up to 89"...is that correct?

Thanks,

Brad
 

SDT

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Hi there, I am curious if having the bigger tires raises your effective loader lift height? I assume that it would, but you know what they say about assuming...lol The lx3310 has a lift height of 84", and the 5" extra with the bigger tires should mean I could lift up to 89"...is that correct?

Thanks,

Brad
Yes, it will, at the expense of higher CG, but not by 5". More like 2".

SDT
 
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Old_Paint

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Yes, it will, at the expense of higher CG, but not by 5". More like 2".

SDT
Much appreciated! I thought it would be 2" as well because the front tires are only 2" bigger than the regular size tires.
All correct. The fronts have the primary effect, but the added height of the rears will actually give the tractor a little forward rake, lowering the bucket back down. I haven't done the geometry, either.

What I did find out the hard way, though is that with the lift fully down, I was having difficulty connecting any implement not sitting up on something at least 4" off the ground, and my box blade was constantly coming up off the ground. This usually put crowns in that I couldn't get back out without using a diagonal cut and pushing (reversing) with the top-link extended as much as possible. I finally figured out that I needed to move the yokes of the 3PH lifting links to the closest holes in the lift arms. That reduces the lift capacity a little, but gives a much larger angle on the arms, which eliminated both problems. This may not ever be noticeable if you don't use any tools on the rear for levelling/grading.

Bigger tires solve some stability issues, but can add a different set of problems. I'm not sure I really needed them, but the SU was recommended because I originally wanted to put a backhoe on it. I've since changed my mind (which I may do again) and decided I can do without. If I move to a bigger property, I may change my mind again.
 
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kreuss

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B26 - loader, backhoe, box blade, pallet forks
Mar 22, 2021
12
13
3
Lothian, MD
Hi there, I am curious if having the bigger tires raises your effective loader lift height? I assume that it would, but you know what they say about assuming...lol The lx3310 has a lift height of 84", and the 5" extra with the bigger tires should mean I could lift up to 89"...is that correct?
I thought the difference between the regular and oversize rears was more line 4",
Much appreciated! I thought it would be 2" as well because the front tires are only 2" bigger than the regular size tires.
I think the tire diameter difference is about 4" on the rears and 2" on the front, but you only get half that. Think circle radius vs diameter. Half the increase is on the bottom of the tire, the other half on top:). So rear lift is about 2" and front is about 1".
 
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methos123

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All correct. The fronts have the primary effect, but the added height of the rears will actually give the tractor a little forward rake, lowering the bucket back down. I haven't done the geometry, either.

What I did find out the hard way, though is that with the lift fully down, I was having difficulty connecting any implement not sitting up on something at least 4" off the ground, and my box blade was constantly coming up off the ground. This usually put crowns in that I couldn't get back out without using a diagonal cut and pushing (reversing) with the top-link extended as much as possible. I finally figured out that I needed to move the yokes of the 3PH lifting links to the closest holes in the lift arms. That reduces the lift capacity a little, but gives a much larger angle on the arms, which eliminated both problems. This may not ever be noticeable if you don't use any tools on the rear for levelling/grading.

Bigger tires solve some stability issues, but can add a different set of problems. I'm not sure I really needed them, but the SU was recommended because I originally wanted to put a backhoe on it. I've since changed my mind (which I may do again) and decided I can do without. If I move to a bigger property, I may change my mind again.
Thanks for responding Old_Paint. Are you regretting the larger tires at all? I still am waiting on my tractor because the implements are not all here yet. I have 5 acres with 2.5-3 acres of woods I plan on clearing to some extent. I am also going to be mowing a lot with the 3 point hitch 60" mower. I have quite a lot of trees, but I am confident I can maneuver around them with the lx tractor.
 

SDT

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I thought the difference between the regular and oversize rears was more line 4",


I think the tire diameter difference is about 4" on the rears and 2" on the front, but you only get half that. Think circle radius vs diameter. Half the increase is on the bottom of the tire, the other half on top:). So rear lift is about 2" and front is about 1".
Bingo.

Net FEL lift height increase probably little or nothing.

SDT
 

Daferris

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LX2610
Nov 23, 2021
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Just a quick comment... I have a LX2610HSD with the 15-19.5 large R4 tires (I did not want the R14's). Yes they are higher but they also are much wider and to overall rear width is just under 60".
They hold nearly double the beet juice for ballast 310 lbs per side.
I find the tractor much more stable with them than my old B7510 a tractor that had a much lower center of gravity.
As to the steering stops the configurator on the web says they are needed but mine does not have them. I have zero issues with any interference in turning.
Attached is a photo to show the fender clearance. For a height gauge it's a gen 2 Chevy Volt in the background.
Yes, the MMM is not compatible with the large R4 or R14 tires as the tires hit the mower deck.
Also the tractor weights in a 3555 pounds as show in the photo. I have not gotten much snow yet this year only about 5" or so at a time. I have only used 4wd once to get over a snow pile.... rest of the time I have not had issues plowing in 2wd.
 

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kreuss

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B26 - loader, backhoe, box blade, pallet forks
Mar 22, 2021
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Lothian, MD
As to the steering stops the configurator on the web says they are needed but mine does not have them. I have zero issues with any interference in turning.

I added the steering stops when I put oversized tires on the front of my B26. I was worried they would cut down on the steering radius, but that wasn't an issue. The stops are just a little less than 1/8" spacer that goes on the front axel stop. $25 from Coleman Equipment, part# B4573. I can't tell the difference when I do close corner work around the garage.
 

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Old_Paint

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Thanks for responding Old_Paint. Are you regretting the larger tires at all? I still am waiting on my tractor because the implements are not all here yet. I have 5 acres with 2.5-3 acres of woods I plan on clearing to some extent. I am also going to be mowing a lot with the 3 point hitch 60" mower. I have quite a lot of trees, but I am confident I can maneuver around them with the lx tractor.
Absolutely no regrets about the tires other than not thinking about the significant height difference (and width) when I got my box blade. That's my own doing, so can't complain too much. I should have gotten at least a 54" blade and could probably EASILY pull a 60" blade because the 48" is too narrow and doesn't cover the track width of the rear tires. That's quite problematic when pushing (reversing) with it because the tires climb up on the edge of the cut and lift the blade on that side. Next to impossible to level anything with it. I'm still in the market for a used 60". I'm not likely to get much for this one from a dealer for trade-in. There's no dents or damage, just a little paint gone from use. But like anything else, once it leaves the dealer lot, the depreciation is pretty miserable.

Those big feet make it bite good (especially since they're loaded) and also make it very sure-footed with the extra width. I'm still considering 2" or 3" spacers just to get that little bit more width because I'm using it in some pretty rough terrain. But a day will come when it isn't rough anymore, so maybe not worth the cost. They wouldn't add much to resale if I did, and I haven't felt the least bit insecure on it.
 
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Elliott in GA

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LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
Mar 10, 2021
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With the LX SU or a regular LX with the larger tires, 60 inch/5 foot attachments/implements are the way to go. Everything I have is that size, and the tractor handles them very well. I have leveled two sites (30 x 30 feet and 15 x 30 feet) and spread over 70 tons of gravel on those sites and the drive. The big tires provide great traction and excellent stability.
 

methos123

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19
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Absolutely no regrets about the tires other than not thinking about the significant height difference (and width) when I got my box blade. That's my own doing, so can't complain too much. I should have gotten at least a 54" blade and could probably EASILY pull a 60" blade because the 48" is too narrow and doesn't cover the track width of the rear tires. That's quite problematic when pushing (reversing) with it because the tires climb up on the edge of the cut and lift the blade on that side. Next to impossible to level anything with it. I'm still in the market for a used 60". I'm not likely to get much for this one from a dealer for trade-in. There's no dents or damage, just a little paint gone from use. But like anything else, once it leaves the dealer lot, the depreciation is pretty miserable.

Those big feet make it bite good (especially since they're loaded) and also make it very sure-footed with the extra width. I'm still considering 2" or 3" spacers just to get that little bit more width because I'm using it in some pretty rough terrain. But a day will come when it isn't rough anymore, so maybe not worth the cost. They wouldn't add much to resale if I did, and I haven't felt the least bit insecure on it.
Good to hear because my lx3310 is here, and I'll have it delivered soon. They told me they could only get the 54" bucket though. Do you wish you would have gotten the 60" bucket?
 

SDT

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Good to hear because my lx3310 is here, and I'll have it delivered soon. They told me they could only get the 54" bucket though. Do you wish you would have gotten the 60" bucket?
I have the 60" bucket for my 3350.

Just right.

SDT
 
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