To 4WD or Not To 4WD

[jimh406]

Depending on your area, you might also use geotextile fabric. I also think a bigger base is a good idea, but you need some way to pack it.

I'm almost never in 2wheel in the tractor, but I run the Polaris Ranger in 2/1 wheel almost all of the time. Today, I was in 4wd with chains on 4 wheels pushing the snow edge over farther now that it melted a bit. I also had to use the diff lock for part of that to push uphill.

If my property was flat, I might use 2wd more, but then, I probably would have bought a 2wd tractor.

 

[HVACRoger]

Especially on that surface, I would use 2WD unless you need 4WD, period.

I would be reluctant to put aggregate on top of the driveway slab. It'll never compact, IMHO.

If you did, I would be apt to put the finer stuff down first. No pea-stone; you want something crushed/angular. Preferably with some fine material to help it "stick."

With rain, even a crusher-run will lose it's "fines" and make it a bunch of marbles rolling around on top of the slab.

I'm with Dan/The Old Hokie....consider asphalt over an aggregate first. Never heard of laying blacktop over a slab, either. Guessing with a good tack -coat first it might stick...I see your in NC and I'm in frosty upstate NY. Thinking the freeze/thaw cycles aren't too much of a concern?

No, not much of a concern. Thanks for the input.

 

[HVACRoger]

Strikes me as a perfect candidate for asphalt. Heck of a lot cheaper then concrete.

Dan

Wife hates asphalt, it doesn’t accent the house or new garage. Welcome to my life.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Wife hates asphalt, it doesn’t accent the house or new garage. Welcome to my life.

Show her some of the designer asphalt.. House by my golf club did a driveway thats actually "art". Multiple Amish patterns in the run. Also probably cost a pretty penny. Here is an example.

Dan

 

[HVACRoger]

Depending on your area, you might also use geotextile fabric. I also think a bigger base is a good idea, but you need some way to pack it.

I'm almost never in 2wheel in the tractor, but I run the Polaris Ranger in 2/1 wheel almost all of the time. Today, I was in 4wd with chains on 4 wheels pushing the snow edge over farther now that it melted a bit. I also had to use the diff lock for part of that to push uphill.

If my property was flat, I might use 2wd more, but then, I probably would have bought a 2wd tractor.

Geotextile fabric, going to have to look that up. Sorry, I’m little dense

 

[HVACRoger]

Show her some of the designer asphalt.. House by my golf club did a driveway thats actually "art". Multiple Amish patterns in the run. Also probably cost a pretty penny.

Dan

I’ve never seen designer asphalt, sounds like a great idea. Also sounds like my flaked/sealed garage floor budget may be re-allocated.

 

[jimh406]

Geotextile fabric, going to have to look that up. Sorry, I’m little dense

One of the companies and they have an explanation for their products. https://www.usfabricsinc.com/products/geotextiles/

Not an endorsement of the company, just info.

 

[HVACRoger]

One of the companies and they have an explanation for their products. https://www.usfabricsinc.com/products/geotextiles/

Not an endorsement of the company, just info.

Just checked it out, great link!! Thanks

 

[HVACRoger]

If prepped correctly asphalt can be installed over concrete. Has to be ground to an appropriate texture for it to stick as it doesn’t really “stick” but is more of a mechanical connection. HVAC Roger being from NC there’s a nominal chance he hasn’t witnessed NCDOT resurfacing concrete roads with asphalt after grinding as they seem to be quite enamored with the process. It probably isn’t a DIY job.

Spend a lot of time dodging the pot holes, bumps or peeling asphalt that destroy my vehicles. Amazing how little time it takes newly paved roads to deteriorate. I795 & hwy 17 bypass prime examples.

 

[Russell King]

Have you considered a concrete apron at the garage and then a gravel driveway? No idea how much drive length you are talking about for the $17000

 

[HVACRoger]

Have you considered a concrete apron at the garage and then a gravel driveway? No idea how much drive length you are talking about for the $17000

I believe the drive is about 110’ from garage to street.

 

[Pony Doc]

The USFabrics folks are great to work with, very helpful. Geotextiles are usually placed between the soil base and stone or gravel to prevent loss of the aggregate, stabilize the surface for load bearing as well as to help control drainage. Likely will not work over intact concrete slab. I use it in horse corrals to keep mud from literally consuming crusher fines or recycled concrete.

 

[edritchey]

Is it better on my L2501 to run in or out of 4WD while performing these tasks?

As long as you have the correct size tires on your machine you can run in 4 wheel drive without damaging anything on you tractor.

 

[Freeheeler]

To answer your 2 vs 4wd question, I'd recommend you work it both ways. After some seat time in each you will develop a sense of when 4wd is beneficial and when it is a hindrance. It will also give you a better feel for how much you can push/pull without breaking traction. There is a lever to put it into and out of 4wd for a reason Play with it and have fun.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I believe the drive is about 110’ from garage to street.

Assuming 20' width that's roughly 30 yards of concrete flat work - 3 ready mix trucks and a days labor should easily do the deal. Maybe another day to remove the old, form it up , and put down gravel and wire. How the heck did they get $17K out of that?

Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

how ? 'they' gotta get the existing concrete outta there,new base, then new concrete.
I couldn't get anyone to remove simple, easy, 10x20 slab last summer. LOTS wanted to pour new slab though.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I planned to have my driveway concrete redone and poured to work with my new garage (I will attach a picture for reference) until I received the estimate this morning. It was $17,000.00, so I think I will be environmentally conscious and just grey rock the entire thing. The bags of small rock I will be unloading and moving around weight 1100LBS. I plan to put down a fine rock for a base then a larger grey rock on top which will be delivered by dump truck and spread with my bucket. Is it better on my L2501 to run in or out of 4WD while performing these tasks?

wrt your 4wd question and whats best for your L2501, I suspect you will be able to answer the question yourself once you start the work.

If in 2wd you find you are spinning rear tires, can't steer, can't push into piles etc... without straining/bogging the tractor then use 4wd. Once you get a little experience under your belt you will be able to easily feel and sense what is best and/or easiest on the machine and yourself. General teachings are to use 4wd when needed.... if not needed like in H gear or running on pavement don't use it.

I am going to guess this will become a good learning exercise for you.

One word of warning though.... I see way to often people back blading (smoothing) in jobs like this and other jobs with their curl cyl. extended. This is a big no - no as can easily bend or break these cyl. Back blading is perfectly OK if done LIGHTLY when cyl. extended. Otherwise only black blade when cyl. almost fully retracted. Spreading gravel do not back blade with your cyl. extended. Worse yet don't front blade with curl cyl extended.

Cheers and good luck!

 

[TheOldHokie]

how ? 'they' gotta get the existing concrete outta there,new base, then new concrete.
I couldn't get anyone to remove simple, easy, 10x20 slab last summer. LOTS wanted to pour new slab though.

Times must be good where you live. Around here I could have my choice of half a dozen local boys with a hoe and dump truck to to rip out that little slab. Same for a crew to pour and finish it if I wanted to spread the stone and lay the wire myself. Here is the crew that poured and finished the footings, piers, and slab for my shop. All hired in person over a cup of coffee at the local gas station where they congregate. I put down the stone, wire, forms , paid them double what they get working for a GC, and provided the refreshments when finished. The slab pour was a biscuit under 40 yards @ $100/yd. so a little bigger than that driveway.

Dan

 

[DDCD]

1. You want geoGRID not fabric. Fabric is for weeds or soil separation between different types of soil/rock.
2.you want 1.5" crusher run as a base. I spread 150 tons of it with a 2WD geared tractor.
3. Rain will compact it down and make it like concrete.

I would get it delivered by a dump truck. I pay $240 for 18 tons delivered. You should not be buying it in bags for a driveway of that size.

Lastly make sure all organics/topsoil is removed or you will suffer with spraying for weeds for eternity.

 

[TheOldHokie]

1. You want geoGRID not fabric. Fabric is for weeds or soil separation between different types of soil/rock.
2.you want 1.5" crusher run as a base. I spread 150 tons of it with a 2WD geared tractor.
3. Rain will compact it down and make it like concrete.

I would get it delivered by a dump truck. I pay $240 for 18 tons delivered. You should not be buying it in bags for a driveway of that size.

Lastly make sure all organics/topsoil is removed or you will suffer with spraying for weeds for eternity.

Plus 1 on all of that. A 110 foot long and level driveway is pretty simple work. Right now around here I can't get the stone for that - more like $500 for a tandem load delivered.

Dan