Got my wheel spacers, not what I expected. L2501

[Pawnee]

I thought I would be getting spacers with 12 holes on the bolt circle.
6 to bolt the spacer to the hub, and 6 more to bolt the wheel to the spacer.
Also, no extra length bolts were included but that's fixable.

The original bolts are marked '7' Does anyone know if that's a bolt grade mark?

Since 2 bolt positions are studs I guess I can pull this off but it won't be as easy as if they had 12 holes.

Can anyone give me an idea as to how heavy the wheels are going to be and how difficult they are to muscle around? They are not loaded.

Thanks guys

 

[Jchonline]

I thought I would be getting spacers with 12 holes on the bolt circle.
6 to bolt the spacer to the hub, and 6 more to bolt the wheel to the spacer.
Also, no extra length bolts were included but that's fixable.

The original bolts are marked '7' Does anyone know if that's a bolt grade mark?

Since 2 bolt positions are studs I guess I can pull this off but it won't be as easy as if they had 12 holes.

Can anyone give me an idea as to how heavy the wheels are going to be and how difficult they are to muscle around? They are not loaded.

Thanks guys

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Unloaded wheels arent bad. Keep machine on level ground when removing and replacing. dont let the tires fall over...If they stay upright they are easy to move/roll around.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I thought I would be getting spacers with 12 holes on the bolt circle.
6 to bolt the spacer to the hub, and 6 more to bolt the wheel to the spacer.
Also, no extra length bolts were included but that's fixable.

The original bolts are marked '7' Does anyone know if that's a bolt grade mark?

Since 2 bolt positions are studs I guess I can pull this off but it won't be as easy as if they had 12 holes.

Can anyone give me an idea as to how heavy the wheels are going to be and how difficult they are to muscle around? They are not loaded.

Thanks guys

View attachment 71368

View attachment 71369

You went steel? I am waffling. How long to get them?

Dan

 

[Pawnee]

Thanks Jc. I will keep them upright.

I had no choice, this is all they had available.
Took 10 days to get them.

IMHO, steel is the right thing to do. There is no advantage to Aluminum that I can think of.

 

[Henro]

Thanks Jc. I will keep them upright.

I had no choice, this is all they had available.
Took 10 days to get them.

IMHO, steel is the right thing to do. There is no advantage to Aluminum that I can think of.

Who did you buy them from?

Seems like proper bolts and studs should have been included. BUT if a reasonably priced source, maybe that is expected not to be part of the deal.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks Jc. I will keep them upright.

I had no choice, this is all they had available.
Took 10 days to get them.

IMHO, steel is the right thing to do. There is no advantage to Aluminum that I can think of.

I did not look closely at the pics the first time. How do you propose to mount the spacers and wheels?

Dan

 

[Pawnee]

Who did you buy them from?

Seems like proper bolts and studs should have been included. BUT if a reasonably priced source, maybe that is expected not to be part of the deal.

$CAD389 for the pair.
Seem to be Kubota parts.
From the dealer.

 

[Pawnee]

I did not look closely at the pics the first time. How do you propose to mount the spacers and wheels?

Dan

I'm thinking the 2 studs will keep the spacer on Ok while I get the wheel back into docking position. If it won't stay I can wrap tape on the studs and maybe grease the mounting surface to keep it stuck to the hub. If those ideas don't work I will be counting on the mother of invention.
I'll have the other 3 wheels chocked and parking brake set hard.
Once it's bolted together I think it will be better than a 12 bolt set up.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I'm thinking the 2 studs will keep the spacer on Ok while I get the wheel back into docking position. If it won't stay I can wrap tape on the studs and maybe grease the mounting surface to keep it stuck to the hub. If those ideas don't work I will be counting on the mother of invention.
I'll have the other 3 wheels chocked and parking brake set hard.
Once it's bolted together I think it will be better than a 12 bolt set up.

I am not following any of that. All I see is 6 tapped holes presumably meant for the bolts that hold the wheel to the adapter. What attaches the adapter to the hub?

Dan

 

[kreuss]

I just added spacers to my machine a few weeks ago. Mine were Bro-Tech which have the 12 holes you were expecting. 6 through holes to attach spacer to the axel then 6 tapped holes to attach the wheel to the spacer. I think this setup is easier to install but has a drawback when checking lug nut torque. With the 12 holes you need to remove the wheel to check the torque on the inner nuts. Most probably do like I did and tighten the inners nuts up real good and maybe check them once. The 6 holes with longer studs allow you to check the torque any time without removing the wheel. I'm not saying one way is better than the other, but that's the tradeoff as I see it.

Here's a youtube of someone installing kubota spacers:

 

[Pawnee]

The holes in the spacers are not tapped.

For one side:
I need to replace the 2 studs in the tractor hub with longer ones.
Also need 4 longer bolts to go through the wheel, through the spacer, into the tractor hub.

The 12 bolt setup is easier because you can bolt the spacer to the tractor hub, then bolt the wheel to the spacer.

The 6 bolt setup requires that you get the spacer on the hub and the wheel on the spacer before you can tighten anything and keep it all lined up.

 

[kreuss]

The holes in the spacers are not tapped.

For one side:
I need to replace the 2 studs in the tractor hub with longer ones.
Also need 4 longer bolts to go through the wheel, through the spacer, into the tractor hub.

The 12 bolt setup is easier because you can bolt the spacer to the tractor hub, then bolt the wheel to the spacer.

The 6 bolt setup requires that you get the spacer on the hub and the wheel on the spacer before you can tighten anything and keep it all lined up.

I believe you are supposed to replace all the studs first. You tighten all of them down to the axle flange, then slide on the spacer, then the attach the wheel.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The holes in the spacers are not tapped.

For one side:
I need to replace the 2 studs in the tractor hub with longer ones.
Also need 4 longer bolts to go through the wheel, through the spacer, into the tractor hub.

The 12 bolt setup is easier because you can bolt the spacer to the tractor hub, then bolt the wheel to the spacer.

The 6 bolt setup requires that you get the spacer on the hub and the wheel on the spacer before you can tighten anything and keep it all lined up.

OK - that makes sense. I should have looked at the picture on a big screen rather than my phone. I like this setup much better than the BORA 12 bolt design. Also a lot easier to make. Do you have a part number for those longer studs? I am tempted to order some bar and make my own.

Dan

 

[DustyRusty]

I installed spacers on my BX22 and I purchased longer Grade 8 bolts and threaded them into the hub from the rear. I also used a mild Locktite and torqued them into the hub as I went from hole to hole. Back when the BX22 was built, there were no guide studs to get the wheels on, and even though they were a lot smaller than your tractor, they were loaded and presented a challenge. I got the bolts from McMaster Carr, because I don't trust the quality of what is sold locally. I also got the wheel stud nuts from them and when I installed the nuts, they were all torqued. I went with aluminum spacers, and everything worked out well. Your tractor might not have the same type of bolt studs as I used, and that might present a problem procuring wheel nuts. You might have to buy them from your local dealer if they are anything other than a normal car size.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I installed spacers on my BX22 and I purchased longer Grade 8 bolts and threaded them into the hub from the rear. I also used a mild Locktite and torqued them into the hub as I went from hole to hole. Back when the BX22 was built, there were no guide studs to get the wheels on, and even though they were a lot smaller than your tractor, they were loaded and presented a challenge. I got the bolts from McMaster Carr, because I don't trust the quality of what is sold locally. I also got the wheel stud nuts from them and when I installed the nuts, they were all torqued. I went with aluminum spacers, and everything worked out well. Your tractor might not have the same type of bolt studs as I used, and that might present a problem procuring wheel nuts. You might have to buy them from your local dealer if they are anything other than a normal car size.

The thread in the L01 rear hubs is M16-1.5 and wheel hardware is class 8.8.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

The holes in the spacers are not tapped.

For one side:
I need to replace the 2 studs in the tractor hub with longer ones.
Also need 4 longer bolts to go through the wheel, through the spacer, into the tractor hub.

The 12 bolt setup is easier because you can bolt the spacer to the tractor hub, then bolt the wheel to the spacer.

The 6 bolt setup requires that you get the spacer on the hub and the wheel on the spacer before you can tighten anything and keep it all lined up.

I am seriously thinking about making a pair of spacers for my L3901. I have a discount code for the material that's good through midnight tomorrow and I would like to get it ordered. If you don't mind could you measure the OD of the spacers you bought? Looks like this is going to be right between 8" and 8.5". I would rather not spend the extra money for the larger bar if I don;'t have too. Either way not nearly as expensive as BORA and I can have a set made and ready to mount in about a week.

Dan

 

[Pawnee]

The thread in the L01 rear hubs is M16-1.5 and wheel hardware is class 8.8.

Dan

Confirm my bolts are M16 x 1.5 but are not marked 8.8 which I believe is equivalent to grade 5.
I have never seen a bolt marked like this one. I'm not a master mechanic but I've worked on loads of cars and motorcycles, plus a few tractors.

 

[Pawnee]

I am seriously thinking about making a pair of spacers for my L3901. I have a discount code for the material that's good through midnight tomorrow and I would like to get it ordered. If you don't mind could you measure the OD of the spacers you bought? Looks like this is going to be right between 8" and 8.5". I would rather not spend the extra money for the larger bar if I don;'t have too. Either way not nearly as expensive as BORA and I can have a set made and ready to mount in about a week.

Dan

Wow, you must have some serious machine tools! That is a big chunk of steel.
I will measure anything you like but to begin:
OD is 205mm. I measured 8.072", I don't have a metric caliper that long.

 

[bird dogger]

I am seriously thinking about making a pair of spacers for my L3901. I have a discount code for the material that's good through midnight tomorrow and I would like to get it ordered. If you don't mind could you measure the OD of the spacers you bought? Looks like this is going to be right between 8" and 8.5". I would rather not spend the extra money for the larger bar if I don;'t have too. Either way not nearly as expensive as BORA and I can have a set made and ready to mount in about a week.

Dan

If you're considering making a set of spacers, take a look at what I did. More time than money into makeing them and they work just fine. Post #8 has the pics here
David

 

[TheOldHokie]

The holes in the spacers are not tapped.

For one side:
I need to replace the 2 studs in the tractor hub with longer ones.
Also need 4 longer bolts to go through the wheel, through the spacer, into the tractor hub.

The 12 bolt setup is easier because you can bolt the spacer to the tractor hub, then bolt the wheel to the spacer.

The 6 bolt setup requires that you get the spacer on the hub and the wheel on the spacer before you can tighten anything and keep it all lined up.

I am seriously thinking about making a pair of spacers for my L3901. I have a discount code good through tomorrow for the material so I would like to get If you don't mind could you measure the OD of the spacers you bought? Looks like this is going to be just over 8" which means *.5" bar and drives the price up noticeably. Still not nearly as expensive as BORA and I can have a set made and on the tractor in about a week. I can get two 2.5 x 8" slabs for $192 delivered. BORA spacers are double that.

Dan