Got my wheel spacers, not what I expected. L2501

[TheOldHokie]

Wow, you must have some serious machine tools! That is a big chunk of steel.
I will measure anything you like but to begin:
OD is 205mm. I measured 8.072", I don't have a metric caliper that long.

The machines are oldies but more than capable of handling this. The lathe will swing 14" and the DRO on the Cincinnati makes the bolt holes a piece of cake. These will be 2.5" spacers milled from 6061 aluminum bar. As I suspected that hub must be just barely over 8". If I used 8.5" bar I would wind up taking almost a 1/2" off the OD so I think I will use 8". The PCD is 170mm which leaves a .25 shoulder on outside of the bolt holes - the extra 1/32 will never be missed. I can get two 2.5" x 8" slaps of 6061 for $192 delivered by the end of the week. The BORA spacers are double that .

The 7 on your bolt is not a standard marking. Its a Kubota identifier and best I can determine by looking at the fasteners on my tractor it corresponds to DIN 8,8. DIN 8.8 is 800 MPa (116 KSI). The loader hardware is all marked 8.8. I think I will go with two studs like original made from B7 metric threaded rod (120 KSI) and 4 longer cap screws possibly 10.9 The fasteners are adding another $75.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

If you're considering making a set of spacers, take a look at what I did. More time than money into makeing them and they work just fine. Post #8 has the pics here
David

Very nice - Ford used that same idea for spin-out rims but it was a sold cating.

I have a lot more money to spare than time and with current promotional pricing I can probably make them out of 6061 bar faster and cheaper than the weldment.

Dan

 

[Henro]

Very nice - Ford used that same idea for spin-out rims but it was a sold cating.

I have a lot more money to spare than time and with current promotional pricing I can probably make them out of 6061 bar faster and cheaper than the weldment.

Dan

Your post Dan got me thinking. I have a couple 1.5 inch thick 8" pieces of round that I got from a guy at work for free years ago, for the purpose of making wheel spacers. Never thought to ask the guy what grade of steel it was. Did not think it mattered much for wheel spacers.

My larger lathe is a SB 16" ( smaller one is a 10" SB), both older than yours but will do the job if I get around to it. I am just torn between spacer width. I keep thinking I should go wider for stability. Like 4" minimum. IF so I would buy from someone.

Before retiring I bought a lot of usable older machine tools, and have a small mill, actually two, one is a horizontal mill, and so on. So I could make spacers that would give me room for chains, space that I barely had before. But the stability issue is holding me back I guess.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Your post Dan got me thinking. I have a couple 1.5 inch thick 8" pieces of round that I got from a guy at work for free years ago, for the purpose of making wheel spacers. Never thought to ask the guy what grade of steel it was. Did not think it mattered much for wheel spacers.

My larger lathe is a SB 16" ( smaller one is a 10" SB), both older than yours but will do the job if I get around to it. I am just torn between spacer width. I keep thinking I should go wider for stability. Like 4" minimum. IF so I would buy from someone.

Before retiring I bought a lot of usable older machine tools, and have a small mill, actually two, one is a horizontal mill, and so on. So I could make spacers that would give me room for chains, space that I barely had before. But the stability issue is holding me back I guess.

There you go. I would consider this design "stackable". If you decide you need more widening make two more spacers and sandwich them together. Of course you need longer wheel hardware which is almost as costly as the spacers themselves.

My primary issue is clearance for chains and stabilizer bars. With R4's you get about 1.25" fender clearance from the factory. Adding two inches to each side is a massive improvement. when it comes to chains.

Dan

 

[Henro]

There you go. I would consider this design "stackable". If you decide you need more widening make two more spacers and sandwich them together. Of course you need longer wheel hardware which is almost as costly as the spacers themselves.

My primary issue is clearance for chains and stabilizer bars. With R4's you get about 1.25" fender clearance from the factory. Adding two inches to each side is a massive improvement. when it comes to chains.

Dan

Me too. I ran chains on my R4s on the B2910, but with about minimal clearance and if something shifted, the chains hit the fenders.

I don't have the energy to deal with stacking spacers...as even then I would just end up with 3"...Well maybe not, it the new material was thicker than 1.5". Still more effort than I want to make.

In my case even an extra half inch would give enough clearance for chains on my tires...but if I do something it will have to give some significant increase in stability I think, or just give enough clearance for the chains without worrying about increasing stability.

My present weakness is I am a fan of stability...

 

[Pawnee]

OK - that makes sense. I should have looked at the picture on a big screen rather than my phone. I like this setup much better than the BORA 12 bolt design. Also a lot easier to make. Do you have a part number for those longer studs? I am tempted to order some bar and make my own.

Dan

Went back for the hardware today, another $CAD86. Not too bad I guess considering the price of everything else nowadays. And these are Kubota parts.
Part numbers in pic

Don't smoke the studs unless you've already had cancer!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Went back for the hardware today, another $CAD86. Not too bad I guess considering the price of everything else nowadays. And these are Kubota parts.
Part numbers in pic
View attachment 71535

Don't smoke the studs unless you've already had cancer!

Strange - Messicks can't find the part number for that stud. Do I have it right : 01517-51680?
How long is it? I am assuming these are 1.5" spacers?

Dan

 

[RichardAaronlx2610]

Part numbers for my spacers in the bottom of this post. Hope this helps

Lx2610 1-1/2” Wheel Spacers

Installed some inch and a half wheel spacers on my Lx2610 today. Wasn’t too bad of a job. Heated up the old studs with a heat gun and they pretty much came right out. Mine only had 2 studs per wheel and the other 4 were bolts. Took some pictures of the weight of everything. Not sure if...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[Pawnee]

Strange - Messicks can't find the part number for that stud. Do I have it right : 01517-51680?
How long is it? I am assuming these are 1.5" spacers?

Dan

That is the part number I got all right.
The spacers are ~ 1-3/4"
Richards stud part number is 01517-51670 for studs to fit a 1-1/2" spacer.
I'm in Canada if that makes a difference

 

[TheOldHokie]

That is the part number I got all right.
The spacers are ~ 1-3/4"
Richards stud part number is 01517-51670 for studs to fit a 1-1/2" spacer.
I'm in Canada if that makes a difference

View attachment 71540 View attachment 71541

One difference being in CA makes is I have to do mental math reading that scale Thanks for the info - I will follow up with how my home brew comes out.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

Confirm my bolts are M16 x 1.5 but are not marked 8.8 which I believe is equivalent to grade 5.
I have never seen a bolt marked like this one. I'm not a master mechanic but I've worked on loads of cars and motorcycles, plus a few tractors.

That marking on the bolt is a Japanese auto makers method to get the correct amount of torque onto the bolt. Tool 7 was set for tightening bolts marked 7 and so on.

Can’t recall where I saw it but it was on the internet so it must be true!

 

[Pawnee]

I finally got my spacers installed, it went well.

Some notes:
- While looking through the manual for torque specs, I noticed Kubota calls out the "7" on the bolt. It's bolt grade as some of you said.
- Wheels were fairly easy to move around. Not loaded.
- I used a floor jack and wood block under the axle ahead of the ROPS bar. Very little choice for a jackstand point so it went under the tow bar box. The tractor jacked up easily.
- One bolt was loose on disassembly, I guess they need checking as the manual says.
- Hardest part was the first stud I took out using 2 nuts jammed together. Two people and a 6 foot cheater for my wife.
- The spacers are free to rotate slightly because the holes are bigger than the studs, hopefully that won't cause trouble.
- I should have painted the spacers, I had all winter. Didn't think of it.

Thanks for all your help.
Mike