L4701 vs MX5400

[NorthwoodsLife]

Stopped into a Kubota dealership today. Got an in-person look at the L 3560 Cab Limited Edition, a L3901, L3301 and a MX5400.

For my property needs, and my wants, it's down to either an L4701 or MX5400.

I love the cab on the Limited"Grand" , but it's huge. I don't think my forest property will do well with that "phone booth". Plus, I find myself working alone a lot. So I'll be constantly getting in and out of the cab. My kids are all adults and moved away.. so I usually work alone in the field. So getting in and out of a cab will just wear out the latches.

So my question is, the reliability of the turbo on the MX5400?

From my online search it appears that the L4701 and MX5400 use the same frame and engine. Except the MX5400 has a turbo.

 

[mcfarmall]

Turbos have been around for several decades....they're pretty reliable if given proper care. You'll want to idle the engine for a few minutes after working it hard before shutdown and use good oil in the engine. Pretty much bulletproof.

As far as wearing out the door latches, if you're hopping in and out to hook up a chain to a log or picking up a stick in your path, don't latch the door until you're ready to drive the tractor. That cuts the wear in half.

 

[NCL4701]

This comparison/decision seems to come up quite a bit. Obviously I went with the L4701 as a better fit for my purposes but that doesn’t mean it’s a better machine or right for everyone.

The most succinctly I’ve heard the basic difference described is the L4701 has a lot of HP compared to weight of the machine. Weight is very important for some things, not important or even a negative for others. For drawbar capacity (pulling things like plows or disc harrow) the MX is a heavier machine so it will pull better than the lighter L. Tires (R1’s v R4’s) will make a difference for draft work also. For loader work, the heavier MX will lift more weight. For mowing, the lighter L is less likely to cause damage or soil compaction, but still has the HP to do some serious bush hogging or run a batwing finish mower. For strict PTO work such as a chipper or generator, weight is irrelevant.

For the primary uses I have, the lighter L with R4’s causes less damage to our numerous dirt trails and grassed areas than a a heavier machine. Loader capacity is less than the MX but is all I need. The L actually causes less damage to our dirt trails than our much older and lighter 2WD tractors with R1’s. I did pull plows and discs back in the day but no longer involved in ag work so those are not chores for the L.

Of course there have been a few situations where it would have been nice to have the heavier MX but also a few times it would have been nice to have a smaller machine. Overall I’ve been very pleased with the L4701.

The L4701 is a basic tractor. That’s all I wanted or needed. In our quite tight wooded property, I still don’t believe a cab would be a good fit but I could be wrong.

The turbo on a diesel wouldn’t scare me. The “orphan L4701” comment I’ve heard from some wouldn’t either. I bought a machine, not a family, and there are a lot of L4701’s running around. To me, it would boil down to what machine best fits your uses. They are quite similar, with weight being the primary difference IMO. Depending on your uses that weight can be a positive or a negative.

 

[jyoutz]

This comparison/decision seems to come up quite a bit. Obviously I went with the L4701 as a better fit for my purposes but that doesn’t mean it’s a better machine or right for everyone.

The most succinctly I’ve heard the basic difference described is the L4701 has a lot of HP compared to weight of the machine. Weight is very important for some things, not important or even a negative for others. For drawbar capacity (pulling things like plows or disc harrow) the MX is a heavier machine so it will pull better than the lighter L. Tires (R1’s v R4’s) will make a difference for draft work also. For loader work, the heavier MX will lift more weight. For mowing, the lighter L is less likely to cause damage or soil compaction, but still has the HP to do some serious bush hogging or run a batwing finish mower. For strict PTO work such as a chipper or generator, weight is irrelevant.

For the primary uses I have, the lighter L with R4’s causes less damage to our numerous dirt trails and grassed areas than a a heavier machine. Loader capacity is less than the MX but is all I need. The L actually causes less damage to our dirt trails than our much older and lighter 2WD tractors with R1’s. I did pull plows and discs back in the day but no longer involved in ag work so those are not chores for the L.

Of course there have been a few situations where it would have been nice to have the heavier MX but also a few times it would have been nice to have a smaller machine. Overall I’ve been very pleased with the L4701.

The L4701 is a basic tractor. That’s all I wanted or needed. In our quite tight wooded property, I still don’t believe a cab would be a good fit but I could be wrong.

The turbo on a diesel wouldn’t scare me. The “orphan L4701” comment I’ve heard from some wouldn’t either. I bought a machine, not a family, and there are a lot of L4701’s running around. To me, it would boil down to what machine best fits your uses. They are quite similar, with weight being the primary difference IMO. Depending on your uses that weight can be a positive or a negative.

I’m going to buy a new tractor in the spring and am pondering the same 2 machines. My uses: I mow 20 acres of native grasses with some light brush, so I need a 6’ rotary cutter. I maintain 1/2 mile of gravel road and snowplow, so I need a 7’ offset rear blade. I rototill the garden once in the spring and plow once in the fall. I use the loader to move materials and sometimes heavy hay bails for feeding. The last item moves me towards the MX, but this task is infrequent (I raise a few steers every couple of years when the freezer gets low). Also, weight is good for road maintenance. But the MX is $5k more.

 

[Jchonline]

Stopped into a Kubota dealership today. Got an in-person look at the L 3560 Cab Limited Edition, a L3901, L3301 and a MX5400.

For my property needs, and my wants, it's down to either an L4701 or MX5400.

I love the cab on the Limited"Grand" , but it's huge. I don't think my forest property will do well with that "phone booth". Plus, I find myself working alone a lot. So I'll be constantly getting in and out of the cab. My kids are all adults and moved away.. so I usually work alone in the field. So getting in and out of a cab will just wear out the latches.

So my question is, the reliability of the turbo on the MX5400?

From my online search it appears that the L4701 and MX5400 use the same frame and engine. Except the MX5400 has a turbo.

2nd on the turbo, non issue. I have them in all of the heavy equipment I own.

Cab...how about the winter? Doing any snow removal?

MX also has some more premium features and is a heavier machine. Weight is work in a heavy machine. MX is 400 lbs heavier...which doesnt sound like much but it is about 12% more weight.

Loader lift capacity is almost 50% higher on the MX. What are you lifting or may need to lift? How high?

You also havent really told us what your property needs are which is ok, but if you want more specific feedback or a comparison of these machine for your tasks throw up a list for us.

 

[NCL4701]

I’m going to buy a new tractor in the spring and am pondering the same 2 machines. My uses: I mow 20 acres of native grasses with some light brush, so I need a 6’ rotary cutter. I maintain 1/2 mile of gravel road and snowplow, so I need a 7’ offset rear blade. I rototill the garden once in the spring and plow once in the fall. I use the loader to move materials and sometimes heavy hay bails for feeding. The last item moves me towards the MX, but this task is infrequent (I raise a few steers every couple of years when the freezer gets low). Also, weight is good for road maintenance. But the MX is $5k more.

I also maintain about a half mile of gravel road plus three short driveways plus a bunch of dirt tractor/UTV trails. Either machine will handle that.

Either machine will handle the mowing with a 6’ rotary cutter (brush hog).

The tiller pretty much puts you with a HST in either machine to get the optimum performance. (High engine RPM not tied to ground speed.)

The heavy bales would likely be the deciding factor. Would the L have the capacity to handle those bales and lift to the height required? If no, even if infrequent, the L isn’t going to meet your needs. Kubota does seem to be rather conservative on their loader specs but I wouldn’t take that to indicate the loader will perform adequately above whatever the specs are.

 

[jyoutz]

I also maintain about a half mile of gravel road plus three short driveways plus a bunch of dirt tractor/UTV trails. Either machine will handle that.

Either machine will handle the mowing with a 6’ rotary cutter (brush hog).

The heavy bales would likely be the deciding factor. Would the L have the capacity to handle those bales and lift to the height required? If no, even if infrequent, the L isn’t going to meet your needs. Kubota does seem to be rather conservative on their loader specs but I wouldn’t take that to indicate the loader will perform adequately above whatever the specs are.

Another question: do you also plow snow on the roads you maintain? It seems like more weight would help when using the blade in an offset position.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I live on a little over 40 acres of forest.
I 'll be primarily maintaining the 1/2 mile long driveway with a box scraper, keeping the trails mowed, cutting down brush and removing 100 years of downed trees within the forest.

It is hilly ground. Having a heated cab tractor would be nice but center of gravity is a big concern.

As for snow removal I'd like to put a blower on my old Jeep Wrangler which has a heated cab. I'll need a blower as the driveway is pretty narrow to shove the snow with a blade. But a rear mount forward facing blower for the tractor is still an option.

Tractor implements I want is the FEL, box scraper, rotary cutter or flail mower, tiller for the garden. Forks. Eventually I'll get a grapple.

I have no current need to move bales.

I considered a larger B series but I want more pto power.

Will order the tractor with 3rd function up front and remotes out back for future needs. Beet juice tires.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

One of you mentioned the weight of the tractors affect on tearing up the trails. There's quite a few trails on my property, big enuf to drive my Jeep on. So the lighter L4701 would be better for that.

One of my concerns to is widening the rear wheels for stability. The dealership I spoke to suggested wheel weights. But I want more width. The wider tires on the MX5400 looked like a better match, but I still want a wider stance.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

One other thing, what's the best implement to knock down saplings in the forest? A flail? Rotary cutter?

I've got acres of this:

 

[MOOTS]

One of you mentioned the weight of the tractors affect on tearing up the trails. There's quite a few trails on my property, big enuf to drive my Jeep on. So the lighter L4701 would be better for that.

One of my concerns to is widening the rear wheels for stability. The dealership I spoke to suggested wheel weights. But I want more width. The wider tires on the MX5400 looked like a better match, but I still want a wider stance.

I think you can widen the wheels on the L. I know you can on the MX.

I vote MX. Freaking hoss of a tractor.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

One other thing, what's the best implement to knock down saplings in the forest? A flail? Rotary cutter?

I've got acres of this:
View attachment 68989

It's hard to see the scale and to know what you consider a sapling. But what I'm seeing is not work for a tractor. If you don't mind leaving the roots, a CTL with a forestry head would do nicely.
I've pushed over saplings up to about 4" with my loader bucket, but it's hard on the tractor. Smaller ones, you can get the bucket under and pop out. Then you have the issue of what to do with them.
The other day I cut a double 6" sweetgum and dug the stump out with the backhoe. It took about 30 minutes. So it can be done, but I'd hate to do several acres unless I had lots of time and patience.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

It's hard to see the scale and to know what you consider a sapling. But what I'm seeing is not work for a tractor. If you don't mind leaving the roots, a CTL with a forestry head would do nicely.
I've pushed over saplings up to about 4" with my loader bucket, but it's hard on the tractor. Smaller ones, you can get the bucket under and pop out. Then you have the issue of what to do with them.
The other day I cut a double 6" sweetgum and dug the stump out with the backhoe. It took about 30 minutes. So it can be done, but I'd hate to do several acres unless I had lots of time and patience.

I'd like to clear out anything 1" dia trunk and smaller in some areas.

Hate to have to do it by hand. Hate to rent buy or hire forestry specific equipment, but I may have to. Maybe a sickle type cutter. Not concerned too much about roots. Maybe some sort of fel bucket cutting edge that pinches the saplings into grooves and pulls them out as I drive forward.

 

[jyoutz]

One other thing, what's the best implement to knock down saplings in the forest? A flail? Rotary cutter?

I've got acres of this:
View attachment 68989

A mastication head on a large piece of equipment (loader or excavator) or chainsaw. This size material is not for tractor operations, but once the work is done you can probably maintain sprouts with a rotary cutter on a tractor. For the initial work, talk with your state forestry cooperative extension forester.

 

[Goz63]

A mastication head on a large piece of equipment (loader or excavator) or chainsaw. This size material is not for tractor operations, but once the work is done you can probably maintain sprouts with a rotary cutter on a tractor. For the initial work, talk with your state forestry cooperative extension forester.

Hmmm, my RCR1860 will chew up 1in diameter stuff all day long. And that’s with an L2501. A4701 or 5400 will have no problem with stuff that size. You’re not going to go over it at high speed but I wouldn’t buy anything more special than a rotary cutter for that stuff.

 

[jyoutz]

Hmmm, my RCR1860 will chew up 1in diameter stuff all day long. And that’s with an L2501. A4701 or 5400 will have no problem with stuff that size. You’re not going to go over it at high speed but I wouldn’t buy anything more special than a rotary cutter for that stuff.

That photo shows a lot of very tall stems that need thinning. Most appear to be larger than 1” diameter and at least 20’ in height. I’m a forester, so I sized this up quickly by looking at the photo. No way this is appropriate for a tractor and rotary cutter.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I appreciate the experience and professional responses. And those with experience using tractor cutters. I'm more concerned with the 4 to 8 foot high saplings. Brush, more or less. As you know this looks very different when theres leaves on the trees.. Anything larger than say 12 feet with an established 'canopy` growth will stay. But I'll talk to my forestry consultant next year when I plan to take action.

I'm just trying to lump any Land Pride implements into the tractor deal. Zero apr is like free money.

 

[Goz63]

That photo shows a lot of very tall stems that need thinning. Most appear to be larger than 1” diameter and at least 20’ in height. I’m a forester, so I sized this up quickly by looking at the photo. No way this is appropriate for a tractor and rotary cutter.

I was going by the statement the op made “I'd like to clear out anything 1" dia trunk and smaller in some areas.”
That doesn’t give me the impression he was talking about clearing that land down to dirt Removing everything By that statement. No I don’t think a rotary cutter will take down those full size trees and I don’t think you need to be a forester to size that up.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Same location out my back door, closer pictures:

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I do want to consult my forestry guy because I want the best thing for the forest. I'm not a tree hugger, but want the best for the property and forest. I think getting rid of the small stuff will help the bigger trees. But I honestly don't know. I'm learning. You guys are helping. Thank you.