Alternative Cylinders?

[OSIAS]

LA525 Hydraulic Cylinder 1 Part # 7J273-63010

I ask more then I contribute so far but one day that may change. So I went to rebuild my Hydro Cylinder and its bent, seals are not the issue. Researching what I will do next yields more questions hence I turn here first. The above seems to be the official part # for it, I don't find it in any books just online, no workshop book for the LA525 that I found yet. One place online gave a part # for the other cylinder on the loader calling it cylinder 2.

Is Cylinder 1 & 2 separate part #'s or are they not just the same? They look the same to me..

Is there another part # I can go by for searching for them or is this it?

I ask because online I can find by that I guess official part # a whole replacement for $650. While alternative generics costs $150.
I also can't seem to locate a Official hydro cylinder stats list so I could reference it out to a generic one that would work.
You know perhaps like one on this page?

Loader Hydraulic Cylinders | Magister Hydraulics

Discover 1.75”-2.5” bore cylinders with 14”- 23.5” strokes.⚡2-year warranty. ✅ Free US shipping. European Quality.

www.magisterhyd.com

If I click on any Hydro it gives me full stats, problem is I can't confirm the stats of my current. Reviews seems pretty good on the generics so I couldn't imagine people not using them.

So can someone help me identify the Hydro Cylinder Generic Alt that will work on a LA525 or point out where my line of thought went astray?

As always thanks in advance, just trying to save chedda

 

[mikester]

Why don't you take it to a hydraulic rebuild shop and have them fix it?

You may or may not find an adequate off-the-shelf substitute, if you go custom the price on cylinders goes up and the K one price won't be too bad. With the OEM you are guaranteed a fit.

 

[GeoHorn]

When I ran into a similar problem with a piece of equipt that had an obsolete cylinder I found this website and they provided a fast and easy replacement cylinder which has been very good and affordable.

Magister Hydraulics: hydraulic manufacturer - cylinders, pumps valves, power units and repair parts

Since 1998 Magister Hydraulics produces hydraulic cylinders using high quality materials and innovative technologies. ⚡ Heavy-duty Hydraulics, 2-year warranty, ✅ free US shipping. European quality hydraulic cylinders for customers from tundra to tropics. Tariff-Free.

www.magisterhyd.com

 

[OSIAS]

Fore Whatever reason I missed this earlier I think this should answer my question.

 

[OSIAS]

Why don't you take it to a hydraulic rebuild shop and have them fix it?

You may or may not find an adequate off-the-shelf substitute, if you go custom the price on cylinders goes up and the K one price won't be too bad. With the OEM you are guaranteed a fit.

Because I believe I stated its bent. Meaning its not repairable, a shop would refuse to repair. At least from all the Utube vids I watched on it.

Negative the OEM part is like 5 times more expensive 650 OEM vs 150 Generic unless someone can provide an alternative OEM Part #

if you get the OEM specs you buy one to match and the concerns you mention will be alleviated, hence the vid I posted I need to watch and see if that answers everything.

Fittings might be the only issue which is why I was was wondering if there were alt cylinders people would already recommend.

 

[Fordtech86]

Just a thought since the 525 is current production. Is the tractor financed and have the Kubota insurance?

 

[OSIAS]

Its not financed and I have insurance but not through Kabuta. I dont think wear and tear is covered for what I have.

 

[whitetiger]

Its not financed and I have insurance but not through Kabuta. I dont think wear and tear is covered for what I have.

If the shaft or barrel is bent, it is not normal wear and tear and should be covered by insurance.
Any good hydraulic repair shop can make a new shaft or replace the barrel. They can build a new cylinder from scratch, so repair is not too hard for them. I have had it done several times.

 

[OSIAS]

I believe these should be my cylinder specs

Bore 1.75
Rod 1.18
Pin 1.01
Stroke 18.7

Also we are looking into it but would likely just make my policy go up and doesn't cover wear and tear. Bent Cylinder Rods from ground clearing I would consider wear and tear.

 

[OSIAS]

Any good hydraulic repair shop can make a new shaft or replace the barrel. They can build a new cylinder from scratch, so repair is not too hard for them. I have had it done several times.

I am sure they can what does it cost typically vs just buying a new one? I can buy a new generic one for 150 dollars. I can't imagine labor and parts coming in much cheaper but hey I am gonna call them tomorrow and see how much and if they recommend cuase again I am all about that cheddar. But everything they do is high priced OEM parts 5 times the price.

But hey I am gonna call

 

[GreensvilleJay]

either by one OEM(Kubota) cylinder or TWO 'generics'. That way the PAIR of cylinders will respond together. You really should have both push/pull identically for best operation and lifespan. If you went 2" bore, you'ld get more lift capacity, slightly slower speed BUT 2" might be a stock item .

 

[Chanceywd]

I was looking out of curiosity about the dimensions of the cylinders recently. I see you have an error in the bore compared to my manual it is 45.mm (1.77). The stroke being 476mm (18.7) I was wondering if I could find a 2" to replace to give more lift ( without getting into the discussion of all the potential problems ). I looked at that online manufacturer because I have bought from them in the past. In fact I made my thumb hydraulic with one from them.
Bottom line was nothing had the exact same stroke as the lift cylinders or mounting distance.
If you changed only one it would rack the whole loader frame if it was different from the other original. The stroke would change Up and down at the limits for example using down pressure.

Bill

 

[Chanceywd]

either by one OEM(Kubota) cylinder or TWO 'generics'. That way the PAIR of cylinders will respond together. You really should have both push/pull identically for best operation and lifespan. If you went 2" bore, you'ld get more lift capacity, slightly slower speed BUT 2" might be a stock item .

I was typing while you replied the same! Slower speed but slightly more lift capacity right?
Bill

 

[OSIAS]

I get what the last 3 points are getting at.

1) if replacing OEM with something other in regards to Hydros. If its a single chain like a thumb it doesn't matter. However in its a dual chain IE one on either side, you must replace both because the min max would damage the other if not the exact same.

This was some of the feedback issues I was looking for its not 150 then its 300 really. Still I expect the other one to fail soon with this load workup on it. So replacing both was sorta already part of the plan.

Still im gonna call see what they recommend and cost.

About full on upgrades I would not really recommend it. Small adjustments to close to like minded parts sure. But upping tolerances, I wouldn't as just some other higher piece will fail instead of this one. likely more expensive etc

 

[Lil Foot]

Large selection of cylinders here:

Surplus Center

Warehouse distributor for many top name manufacturers. Parker Hydraulics, Hypro Pumps, Prince Hydraulics. Direct from the factory. Surplus equipment. We buy large quantities of manufacturer's surplus or excess stock.

www.surpluscenter.com

 

[Fordtech86]

I was looking out of curiosity about the dimensions of the cylinders recently. I see you have an error in the bore compared to my manual it is 45.mm (1.77). The stroke being 476mm (18.7) I was wondering if I could find a 2" to replace to give more lift ( without getting into the discussion of all the potential problems ). I looked at that online manufacturer because I have bought from them in the past. In fact I made my thumb hydraulic with one from them.
Bottom line was nothing had the exact same stroke as the lift cylinders or mounting distance.
If you changed only one it would rack the whole loader frame if it was different from the other original. The stroke would change Up and down at the limits for example using down pressure.

Bill

Curious on the hydraulic thumb setup. Do you have a thread here on it?

 

[Chanceywd]

Curious on the hydraulic thumb setup. Do you have a thread here on it?

No thread, I did it about a month ago. I found a cylinder that had the right stroke and pin ends but the mounting length was off just a little. I plugged and welded the hole on the thumb end with a piece of 1" stock, then moved the hole location about 7/16 and re-bored it. Did that so it would tuck the cylinder up tight to the dipper arm, I found a relief valve (so bucket wouldn't over power it) and push button on surplus center and plumbed that into the 3rd function valve for the grapple with the switch paralleling the loader switches. I have hoses teed and run front and back figuring I would be using one or the other. Also teed into the tank return for the relief valve. So I haven't taken pictures as I struggle to get them from phone to here but I can try and also list the part numbers. Got a lot of irons in the retirement fire but could try if there is interest.

Bill

 

[Fordtech86]

No thread, I did it about a month ago. I found a cylinder that had the right stroke and pin ends but the mounting length was off just a little. I plugged and welded the hole on the thumb end with a piece of 1" stock, then moved the hole location about 7/16 and re-bored it. Did that so it would tuck the cylinder up tight to the dipper arm, I found a relief valve (so bucket wouldn't over power it) and push button on surplus center and plumbed that into the 3rd function valve for the grapple with the switch paralleling the loader switches. I have hoses teed and run front and back figuring I would be using one or the other. Also teed into the tank return for the relief valve. So I haven't taken pictures as I struggle to get them from phone to here but I can try and also list the part numbers. Got a lot of irons in the retirement fire but could try if there is interest.

Bill

Definitely interested, but no big rush.

 

[whitetiger]

I get what the last 3 points are getting at.

1) if replacing OEM with something other in regards to Hydros. If its a single chain like a thumb it doesn't matter. However in its a dual chain IE one on either side, you must replace both because the min max would damage the other if not the exact same.

This was some of the feedback issues I was looking for its not 150 then its 300 really. Still I expect the other one to fail soon with this load workup on it. So replacing both was sorta already part of the plan.

Still im gonna call see what they recommend and cost.

About full on upgrades I would not really recommend it. Small adjustments to close to like minded parts sure. But upping tolerances, I wouldn't as just some other higher piece will fail instead of this one. likely more expensive etc

This is who I have used for the past 30 years. They're located in Salina Kansas and you can ship items to them for repair, then they will ship it back. I am sure there are several more shops like them around the country.

Hydraulic Repair | Salina, KS | Ginder Hydraulic LC

Ginder Hydraulic LC provides services for clients in Salina, KS and surrounding areas. Call 785-827-3212 today to get more information about hydraulic repair.

www.ginderhydraulic.com

 

[BAP]

I believe these should be my cylinder specs

Bore 1.75
Rod 1.18
Pin 1.01
Stroke 18.7

Also we are looking into it but would likely just make my policy go up and doesn't cover wear and tear. Bent Cylinder Rods from ground clearing I would consider wear and tear.

Bent cylinders are from abuse, not wear and tear. I don’t know what model tractor you have because you didn’t fill out your profile, but you spend $20-60,000 dollars on a tractor then don’t want to spend the money to properly maintain it. That makes no sense, but certainly is your choice.