Same problems on my L3540, 950 hrs.By the way 15 hrs and no leaks!!!
Sorry - somehow made a 2nd copy of my post 40, so I deleted this post as best I could. Post 40 questions still apply.
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Hydraulic fluid leak when hot?
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Sorry - somehow made a 2nd copy of my post 40, so I deleted this post as best I could. Post 40 questions still apply.
Russell King
Well-known member
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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Third question is about all I can help you with.
The front axle of the tractor is able to rotate around a pin at the center of the tractor. One wheel can move down and the other moves up like a see-saw to act as simple suspension on the tractor. The rear wheels hold the front of the tractor in a normal position but you are removing the front from the rear wheel support (bell housing). So you need to block the front of the tractor to the front axle so it doesn’t flop to the side when disconnected from the rear wheels.
You can see in the pictures where the floor jack is supporting the front on a 4x4. That may be enough but I would suggest you get some blocking at the front axle also.
On the RTV sealant can you just order the 3 bond so you know it is the correct material? I doubt it is really that necessary but also would be annoying if it failed and you have to redo the work.
Have you guys with leaking fluid from the propeller shaft seal seen this bulletin? I many ( most!) cases this leak can be rectified by pushing the seal sleeve back into position and installing this sleeve kit! It was a mandatory upgrade but it is obvious many of them never were completed. ( this applies to early 60 series tractors as well because Kubota decided not to include this spacer in early 60's for some reason!
Have mercy! Do I suddenly need this obviously expensive special tool set? This is getting deep into the HST section, instead of just seals at the surface. Mine is an L3540, 2009 model, s.n. 30664.
Please advise - I am looking to start this work next week.
Mine would start leaking when hot, but the pour was only out the weep pin and would have been ounces. I decided to fix it after seeing it happen about 3 times.
1. In your response, post #6, you talked about the coupling 020 falling off the shaft (FWD propeller shaft). I have mine split and have hit the point that I am looking at the shaft, before pulling it out and am concerned about if I'll be able to get it back on without having to pull the transmission! It was a job to this point. The WSM calls for pulling the transmission and pulling that shaft out of the back side. OUCH! Am I going to be able to replace the shaft without doing that? How about tipping the rear half of the tractor backwards just a bit so maybe the the coupling will stay on the back shaft? Hints and help, please.
2. I found drips hanging from the bottom of the input shaft case (the case that holds the input shaft). I'd wipe it and it would be wet again. It seemed that it was coming from that point, as if the gasket was bad. When I removed the case, the gasket looked fine so I could not detect that it was leaking from the bottom of the gasket. All the bolts seemed the same tightness. The input shaft seal itself seems smooth and pliable and the seal surface on the shaft was smooth. Any chance it was the gasket? The reason I ask is of course I'm going to put in a new input shaft seal but I am concerned about getting the FWD propeller shaft back in place.
3. My clutch was behaving fine but I am considering pulling it and inspecting the disk. My concern about that is the alignment issue. Do you just eyeball the alignment and is it a big deal to get it to all fit back together. I've done several cars before and only eyeballed it but that was easier since I only had to pick up a moderately heavy transmission and wiggle it around, only having to align the input shaft. With this tractor, I've got to move 1/2 of a tractor and align about 6 mounting studs and a transmission input shaft. Hints and help, please.
4. Just looking at the exterior of my FWD propeller shaft seal, it looks totally in tact. No damage at all. Yet I am afraid not to try to replace it - I don't want to have to split this thing again if I can avoid it. I have to rent a trailer and haul it 60 miles to my house to work on, so once is best.
Thanks for all help.
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Number 20 did fall off the shaft on mine. I was able to put it back on the inner shaft with a looong screwdriver. It was not too bad to get it on just had to balance it right on the screw driver. Patience was the key to it. (although I was panicking about the thought of having to disassemble the trans!) Your idea of tipping the trans up is solid, I would try that if I had to do it again! I would definitely change the seal even is it looks good! (you know it too) I am 100 percent sure mine was leaking out of the input seal so make sure you change that also!
Good luck!
Were you able to pull the prop shaft out from the front (clutch area)? Please tell me you didn't have to split the HST. Mine has a large frame for the big Kubota backhoe in the way.
I now see you didn't have to split the HST. How were you able to pull the shaft out? Mine seems to only move back and forth a 1/4 inch or so. Tips on pulling the shaft out?
Also on the clutch, same as a car, just bigger stuff. I cleaned mine which was soaked and it has been fine 6 years later! Eyeball it and also put your fingers in the open areas of the pressure plate where you can see the edge of the disk with everything installed to make sure it is centered. Mine went right together, no issues.
Regarding the prop shaft, how were you able to pull the shaft out? Mine seems to only move back and forth a 1/4 inch or so. Tips on pulling the shaft out?
By the way, I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your responding.
I pulled mine out with pliers Its been a while but maybe the seal is holding it in? Be careful of the splines.
You have been a Godsend. I am sitting beside the tractor right now and am going to pad the shaft and grab it with pliers. You've inspired me to add some more pics to this wonderful article.
Did you cut out the old seal or pull the shaft 1st, then work it out? It's tight so I am concerned about cutting the seal and scratching the shaft surface.
I did not cut it and I don't recommend that. If anything drill a small hole in the seal and insert a wood type screw (course thread) and pull it out with the screw. I don't recall an issue with pulling the shaft. I pulled the shaft to change the bearing but my old one was fine and I did not need to replace it. If you can change the seal without pulling the shaft then don't pull the shaft. I'm going to look at the diagram as I said It's been a while
I have the WSM and the parts lists on this computer if you want me to look at anything.
When I pull on the shaft, it easily pulls 1/8 inch back and forth. If I pull quickly, it's almost like it's hitting a mechanical stop, almost like a clip around the shaft bumping into the back of the bearing or something. The diagram does not show anything like that. I'm going to upload the parts diagram (I hope).
No, 60 is still in the seal. It's tight in there and I haven't tried to move it. I don't see a good way to grip it. Perhaps I could use some needle nose. The seal rides on it so I am concerned about scratching it.
If you can get the sleeve and seal out without removing the shaft you will be ahead of the game. do you have pliers like this?