B2601 3rd function switch repair

B737

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Just entering this for the forum archive should anyone go searching in the future. I couldn't find much here when I searched.

If you have a B2601 with dealer installed 3rd function kit "B1653" it has an on/off switch on the loader joystick. It will fail in short order if it gets wet. The part number for this switch is 7J056-84152 (superseded 7J056-84150). Kubota charges $150 for it. The switch is a $20 "NKK YB-16w". It is a latching SPDT microswitch. Incidentally, NKK makes a spring loaded guarded cover for this switch which would be handy, part# NKK AT4175, but it's difficult to get.

My dealer dropped off a new switch to me since it's under warranty, a quick 5 minute job to swap it out, but im sure I will have this problem again soon.

The switch has a 4 pin plug at the joystick base, with 4 wires going to the switch. The two wires that arm the system are the yellow w/red, and red w/black. When this dies again, I will cut the switch off, discard the two wires for the led light, and install a quality toggle switch to the ones mentioned above. I'll move it to the plastic fender trim where the levers are.

casting this off to the forum archive 👋

this is the micro switch guts broken from its upper half


new switch with its plug


switch component
 
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je1279

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The Kubota 3rd function controller on my LX2610 is very similar if not identical to yours. Thank you for posting this!
 
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B737

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Dave I unsuccessfully scoured all of google to find those items and your website has both in stock. I will prob still end up with a marine toggle switch but its good to know, beats paying kubota $150 if its out of warranty and would make for easy direct replacement.

NKK Switches AT4175

NKK Switches YB16WCKW01-6F-JB
 
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bird dogger

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Dave I unsuccessfully scoured all of google to find those items and your website has both in stock. I will prob still end up with a marine toggle switch but its good to know, beats paying kubota $150 if its out of warranty and would make for easy direct replacement.

NKK Switches AT4175

NKK Switches YB16WCKW01-6F-JB
I agree, I'd also go with a much more robust toggle switch. DigiKey also has many many waterproof covers for generic toggle switches, etc. So even a generic switch in the location of your choice and covered with a waterproof rubber cover would also work well. The shipping charges would have to be looked at. Local sources or a good hardware store might have the same or an acceptable combination.

But for getting ideas of switches and accessories, DigiKey is one big electronic/electrical supplier. Its an hour's drive from my location and quite the place to have a look at!!
David
 

Ukfan

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M7060
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Hi all, new to the forum. Can anyone verify that NKK Switches YB16WCKW01-6F-JB led works? My third function M7991 came shipped to me broken without a bulb and the switch had broken internals. It is going on an M7060. Also, is the input voltage 12v? I am assuming it is. Thanks in advance
 

Jim L.

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When you follow the above link to Digi-key, look at the data sheet.

6F means a superbright LED, green, without a resistor. The user would have to add their own calculated resistor. There are other options in the ordering number to go to 12vdc with the resistor built-in.

JB is for a lens that is clear and white, that fits with a superbright LED.

Myself, I would pick another option set for 12vdc with the matching cover lens. And something in immediate stock.
 

Ukfan

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Thanks Jim for verifying. I believe the part number that I need is YB16WCKW01-5F12-JB. This is the bright not super bright led with 12v resistor built in. Is there another switch you recommend? I have been considering that too, the hole is 16mm round.
 
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bird dogger

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Thanks Jim for verifying. I believe the part number that I need is YB16WCKW01-5F12-JB. This is the bright not super bright led with 12v resistor built in. Is there another switch you recommend and I can't read any of the letters on the current switch ie..NC, NO, COMMON, LED + LED-? There are 4 wires black/red stripe, yellow/red stripe, yellow and black. Do you know which wires are which?
I wouldn't be able to tell you what your color coded wires went to. However, if you could find a mfg's name and part # on the broken switch, you might be able to google that info and find a data sheet and contact layout for it. Then match the appropriate wires from the old switch to the proper contacts on the replacement. Were there any "jumper connections" on the old switch between its terminals? A good wiring diagram of your 3rd Function should help with the rewiring of the new replacement switch.
David
 

Ukfan

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M7060
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I used a diagram from AT716 quick connect terminal. It is about 17mm tall and I would have to solder it in but if the switch went bad again I could just pull it out of the quick terminal. It may stick down to far and get broken off though. Here is what I think it is and will edit later if I'm wrong in case someone else could use the info. 1.Yellow/Red Common 2.Red/Black Normally Open 3.Black negative led 4.Yellow +led. I didn't notice any jumpers. The most info I could find is in the LA1154 installation manual but I can figure it out now. Thank you both for the help, if you know of switch that has been reliable and illuminated let me know. I will look for a new spdt switch and check back soon with alternative as well.
 
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Jim L.

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Thanks Jim for verifying. I believe the part number that I need is YB16WCKW01-5F12-JB. This is the bright not super bright led with 12v resistor built in. Is there another switch you recommend? I have been considering that too, the hole is 16mm round.

Datasheet cutout diameter is 16mm. The part number above with resistor for 12vdc shows in-stock.

Above part number is small lugs, not pins. Probably would want small slide terminals to mate with the lugs and make troubleshooting/replacement easy.

I don't know the conditions or placement of the switch. Need to consider sunlight and UV. Consider physical damage to switch. Does it need to lock ON, or just momentary? If any chance of getting hit by brush or tree limbs, or knocked by boots or wrenches, I would reconsider the choice of this switch.

As has been suggested, a military-spec switch would be more rugged. But if you're OK with what you had, the NKK switch is fine.
 

Ukfan

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Yes, my understanding is the solder lugs represented by 01 in the part number are the factory Kubota style. I was thinking the same thing about the slide terminals instead of AT716. It would probably hang down to far. It is a latch on switch and is located on a bracket above the boot of the loader bucket handle.
 

Jim L.

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Jun 18, 2014
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Sorry, going to do some nitpicking here. Assume a charging voltage of 13.5vdc. Superbright takes 3.3 vdc, which gives a voltage across a resistor of 10.2vdc. Normal current for the LED is 20 mA. But, that's at 25C (temperature). Derating for 40C, would be a target current of about 14 mA. The resistor value would be 720 ohms; 10% standard values are 680 and 820; at 5% tolerance one can get a 750 value.

Too much current and the LED will soon be gone. If the 12vdc version of the switch is chosen, then the manufacturer has picked the value of the resistor. It would pay to double-check the temperature rating of any switch to make sure it works in your environment.
 
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B737

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All we’re looking to do here is energize the Circuit, not launching rockets.
 
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Ukfan

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It definitely doesn't leave much room for error. It would be interesting to find out if others are having any failures with their leds. The bulbs made for the 5f series only come in 5, 12, and 24 and I would assume that Kubota is using the 12 volt version. The heavy duty toggle I purchased says that ithe led has a 9-24 volt rating. That seems to good to be true. I'll ohm it out when it arrives. Dont give him the launch codes b737! Jk, you guys have been the best resource on any forum I've been on!
 
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B737

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I agree when this switch fails just moving to marine toggle