Why Top and Tilt (T&T) and Power Angle (PA)?

NHSleddog

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650
Dec 19, 2019
2,149
1,831
113
Southern, NH
I got a private request to post some pictures of my T&T setup in use.

First off, Why Top and Tilt (T&T) and Power Angle?
1. Quality of job.
2. Speed of job.
3. Trailering (no implement clearance issues loading)
4. Obstacle avoidance or handling in tight spaces.
5. Quick Hitch heaven. Any implement/any angle - pick and go, never leave the seat. Even non-QH benefits when on an angle hooking up.
6. More reasons - let me have them you guys in the know.

I have graded driveways/roads and spread and graded materials for years now. I have been complimented on the work many times by people in the trade. Obviously I have to drag the stuff there and do it, and the years of practice have been fruitful, but at the end of the day, it is the equipment that does the work.

The quality and speed I achieve would not be possible without the Top and Tilt and Power Angle
This is why I will always suggest 3 rear remotes to start if you aren't sure. They will cover most of your needs now and in the future.

I have some pictures of my rake to illustrate. I also use all 3 on my boxblade I use them mowing fields, stump grinding etc. Every implement I have benefits from them in some way even if it is just loading on the trailer or attaching to the tractor.

The "TOP" cylinder on the rake allows me to set the gauge wheels once and then on the fly adjust the rake angle to either dig or leave material and everything else in-between. Unfortunately I didn't turn the gauge wheels back in the pictures to really show the changes. When you are moving forward the wheels are always turned back.

T&T-1.jpg

The wheels to the rake are pretty level in this shot and will basically just skim over the high spots and provide an even grade.


T&T-2.jpg

Here the wheels are basically floating and the rake has all the weight. This will be an aggressive raking that will carry material and leave windrows.

T&T-3.jpg

Here the wheels are taking all the weight, the rake isn't touching anymore and will leave material as you go. Very rarely do I need to change gauge wheel spacers.

Sure you can set this stuff manually (like the cut angle on a boxblade) but you can't do it on-the-fly. An easy example of the on-the-fly need is spreading top soil up over a septic system mound, or gravel over a hill in a driveway. With a manual set, I would leave material at the low spot at the beginning of the slope - then scalp the top, then leave material again at the low spot on the other side. Even doing flat work, if I want to "move" material, I could set it that way, but you generally want to "move form the high to the low etc., so I would "dig" on one side and "leave" on the other. The top cylinder is just a huge benefit and I use it all the time.

I set up the triple rear remotes as two spring center and one spring center/float detent. I usually keep the float on the tilt cylinder however, I also have quick connects to change them around when needed.

Up here the primary use on the tilt for me is crowning and sloping drives/roads. Pulling materials out of the ditch. Any odd angles I run into can usually be handled by the tilt, hillside stump grinding etc.

T&T-4.jpg



I use the 3rd set for power angle on my rake, power scarrifer teeth on my boxblade, power angle on my snow blade and the power offset on my flail mower.

While I find the "Top" cylinder to be the single most "effective" I find the power angle to be the single most "productive" of the set.

T&T-PA1.jpg

I added the cylinder to my rake. It was manually adjustable stock and it would work, but now when I get to the end of the row/driveway/road I just angle it the other way. This is a huge time saver. I use the PA all the time.
T&T-PA2.jpg

T&T-PA3.jpg



It would be good to add a bunch of T&T uses for others to get ideas from.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 7 users

B737

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
LX3310
Jun 9, 2019
2,024
2,200
113
USA
^^^ and that sums up why I will never have a tractor without T&T again. I run power angle off the 3rd function. 5 feet of hoses sucks but it works. I have not worked up the skills to use power angle often on rake. However, if the rake or box blade is on the back of the machine, my thumb is on the top link control nearly the entire time.

Finished product of manual links is not even in the same ballpark as T&T.
very well done post and discussion

 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Henro

Well-known member

Equipment
B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini Ex., Beer fridge
May 24, 2019
5,781
2,965
113
North of Pittsburgh PA
Great post, thank you for sharing the great information and photos. Well done.
Yes, nice informative post. (y)

I see you have float on one valve section. I did the same and love that option, other than there is some leak down over time. like you, I usually keep a tilt cylinder on the float section (I have two tilt cylinders).

My other three valve sections have pilot operated check valves built into them, which I really like, as that keeps the cylinders locked into place, independent of any leakage the valve section may have.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,791
4,233
113
Central Piedmont, NC
I got a private request to post some pictures of my T&T setup in use.

First off, Why Top and Tilt (T&T) and Power Angle?
1. Quality of job.
2. Speed of job.
3. Trailering (no implement clearance issues loading)
4. Obstacle avoidance or handling in tight spaces.
5. Quick Hitch heaven. Any implement/any angle - pick and go, never leave the seat. Even non-QH benefits when on an angle hooking up.
6. More reasons - let me have them you guys in the know.

I have graded driveways/roads and spread and graded materials for years now. I have been complimented on the work many times by people in the trade. Obviously I have to drag the stuff there and do it, and the years of practice have been fruitful, but at the end of the day, it is the equipment that does the work.

The quality and speed I achieve would not be possible without the Top and Tilt and Power Angle
This is why I will always suggest 3 rear remotes to start if you aren't sure. They will cover most of your needs now and in the future.

I have some pictures of my rake to illustrate. I also use all 3 on my boxblade I use them mowing fields, stump grinding etc. Every implement I have benefits from them in some way even if it is just loading on the trailer or attaching to the tractor.

The "TOP" cylinder on the rake allows me to set the gauge wheels once and then on the fly adjust the rake angle to either dig or leave material and everything else in-between. Unfortunately I didn't turn the gauge wheels back in the pictures to really show the changes. When you are moving forward the wheels are always turned back.

View attachment 62390
The wheels to the rake are pretty level in this shot and will basically just skim over the high spots and provide an even grade.


View attachment 62391
Here the wheels are basically floating and the rake has all the weight. This will be an aggressive raking that will carry material and leave windrows.

View attachment 62392
Here the wheels are taking all the weight, the rake isn't touching anymore and will leave material as you go. Very rarely do I need to change gauge wheel spacers.

Sure you can set this stuff manually (like the cut angle on a boxblade) but you can't do it on-the-fly. An easy example of the on-the-fly need is spreading top soil up over a septic system mound, or gravel over a hill in a driveway. With a manual set, I would leave material at the low spot at the beginning of the slope - then scalp the top, then leave material again at the low spot on the other side. Even doing flat work, if I want to "move" material, I could set it that way, but you generally want to "move form the high to the low etc., so I would "dig" on one side and "leave" on the other. The top cylinder is just a huge benefit and I use it all the time.

I set up the triple rear remotes as two spring center and one spring center/float detent. I usually keep the float on the tilt cylinder however, I also have quick connects to change them around when needed.

Up here the primary use on the tilt for me is crowning and sloping drives/roads. Pulling materials out of the ditch. Any odd angles I run into can usually be handled by the tilt, hillside stump grinding etc.

View attachment 62393


I use the 3rd set for power angle on my rake, power scarrifer teeth on my boxblade, power angle on my snow blade and the power offset on my flail mower.

While I find the "Top" cylinder to be the single most "effective" I find the power angle to be the single most "productive" of the set.

View attachment 62394
I added the cylinder to my rake. It was manually adjustable stock and it would work, but now when I get to the end of the row/driveway/road I just angle it the other way. This is a huge time saver. I use the PA all the time.
View attachment 62395
View attachment 62396


It would be good to add a bunch of T&T uses for others to get ideas from.
Thanks for the write up. The one thing I did when I bought mine which I would classify as a mistake in hindsight was failing to add rear remotes and the T&T when I bought it. I failed to recognize the routine touch ups I’d be doing to our long neglected road, driveways, and trails. Figured I could make it through the known rehab project without it and then would have little use for it. Wrong. And there were many times during that project and since I wished I could change the setup on the fly.

Only good thing about adding them later is I don’t believe I would have understood the need for a float detent in at least one valve.

I’m scheduled to pick up my tractor tomorrow with three new rear remotes and the top and side cylinders installed, ready to work. I’m confident I’ll have a learning curve figuring out how to utilize them with the box blade and back blade to maintain the driveway. Your rake looks pretty sweet for pulling gravel back to the center but don’t have one, so that’s a back blade job for me.

Thanks for giving some practical instruction on how to utilize the T&T. Will definitely be watching this thread to see how folks are using them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

JimmyJazz

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Aug 8, 2020
1,219
739
113
Pittsburgh, Pa
I got a private request to post some pictures of my T&T setup in use.

First off, Why Top and Tilt (T&T) and Power Angle?
1. Quality of job.
2. Speed of job.
3. Trailering (no implement clearance issues loading)
4. Obstacle avoidance or handling in tight spaces.
5. Quick Hitch heaven. Any implement/any angle - pick and go, never leave the seat. Even non-QH benefits when on an angle hooking up.
6. More reasons - let me have them you guys in the know.

I have graded driveways/roads and spread and graded materials for years now. I have been complimented on the work many times by people in the trade. Obviously I have to drag the stuff there and do it, and the years of practice have been fruitful, but at the end of the day, it is the equipment that does the work.

The quality and speed I achieve would not be possible without the Top and Tilt and Power Angle
This is why I will always suggest 3 rear remotes to start if you aren't sure. They will cover most of your needs now and in the future.

I have some pictures of my rake to illustrate. I also use all 3 on my boxblade I use them mowing fields, stump grinding etc. Every implement I have benefits from them in some way even if it is just loading on the trailer or attaching to the tractor.

The "TOP" cylinder on the rake allows me to set the gauge wheels once and then on the fly adjust the rake angle to either dig or leave material and everything else in-between. Unfortunately I didn't turn the gauge wheels back in the pictures to really show the changes. When you are moving forward the wheels are always turned back.

View attachment 62390
The wheels to the rake are pretty level in this shot and will basically just skim over the high spots and provide an even grade.


View attachment 62391
Here the wheels are basically floating and the rake has all the weight. This will be an aggressive raking that will carry material and leave windrows.

View attachment 62392
Here the wheels are taking all the weight, the rake isn't touching anymore and will leave material as you go. Very rarely do I need to change gauge wheel spacers.

Sure you can set this stuff manually (like the cut angle on a boxblade) but you can't do it on-the-fly. An easy example of the on-the-fly need is spreading top soil up over a septic system mound, or gravel over a hill in a driveway. With a manual set, I would leave material at the low spot at the beginning of the slope - then scalp the top, then leave material again at the low spot on the other side. Even doing flat work, if I want to "move" material, I could set it that way, but you generally want to "move form the high to the low etc., so I would "dig" on one side and "leave" on the other. The top cylinder is just a huge benefit and I use it all the time.

I set up the triple rear remotes as two spring center and one spring center/float detent. I usually keep the float on the tilt cylinder however, I also have quick connects to change them around when needed.

Up here the primary use on the tilt for me is crowning and sloping drives/roads. Pulling materials out of the ditch. Any odd angles I run into can usually be handled by the tilt, hillside stump grinding etc.

View attachment 62393


I use the 3rd set for power angle on my rake, power scarrifer teeth on my boxblade, power angle on my snow blade and the power offset on my flail mower.

While I find the "Top" cylinder to be the single most "effective" I find the power angle to be the single most "productive" of the set.

View attachment 62394
I added the cylinder to my rake. It was manually adjustable stock and it would work, but now when I get to the end of the row/driveway/road I just angle it the other way. This is a huge time saver. I use the PA all the time.
View attachment 62395
View attachment 62396


It would be good to add a bunch of T&T uses for others to get ideas from.
Very informative. I like the fire extinguisher also. How is it mounted ? Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

NHSleddog

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650
Dec 19, 2019
2,149
1,831
113
Southern, NH
Very informative. I like the fire extinguisher also. How is it mounted ? Thanks
I inserted PEM nuts in the ROPS.

I have only used a fire extinguisher one time in my life and did save a large shop from fire with it. I have always kept them handy ever since.
 

NHSleddog

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650
Dec 19, 2019
2,149
1,831
113
Southern, NH
Now I want to add the tilt to my hydraulic top link :mad:

I like your setup. Did the land pride come with the wheels or is that an option?
That is an OEM LP "Gauge Wheel Kit" and drop blade. The rake/blade goes from a rake/blade to a grader. A really huge difference when grading.
 

B737

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
LX3310
Jun 9, 2019
2,024
2,200
113
USA
this T&T discussion should be stickied lol

There are two types of gauge wheel offered by LP. NHS has the skinny wheels, but they also offer fat ones. I have the fat wheels on mine. I have no idea what the difference is in terms of practical use.

here they are facing the wrong way
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,791
4,233
113
Central Piedmont, NC
Just picked mine up from dealer today at lunch. Don’t know what to do with it exactly. Looking forward to figuring it out. Right now it’s sitting in the parking lot at work still on the trailer.
43671851-E114-4853-B58F-F2F08B66E5CC.jpeg
CD35BA77-AA52-4C70-B34E-4840ACABD99F.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

GeoHorn

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
May 18, 2018
6,040
3,316
113
Texas
I’m enjoying my Hyd. TopLink conversion… and IF and WHEN I add Hyd. TILT…. I plan to move my hand-crank-box-leveller to the left side so it will be adjustable as well.
 

NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,791
4,233
113
Central Piedmont, NC
I’m enjoying my Hyd. TopLink conversion… and IF and WHEN I add Hyd. TILT…. I plan to move my hand-crank-box-leveller to the left side so it will be adjustable as well.
Yep. When I get mine home the manually adjustable link will be replacing the fixed link. For the moment it and the old manual top link are in the back of the truck.
 

NHSleddog

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650
Dec 19, 2019
2,149
1,831
113
Southern, NH
Some shots of the box. I did a 900' driveway yesterday. It had a sloped surface for a few hundred feet, and agressive crown around a corner and up a hill and then a flat stretch that needed a crown. I adjust the T&T the whole time regardless of box or rake.

TandT-1.jpg

TandT-2.jpg


TandT-3.jpg


TandT-4.jpg


TandT-5.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Jchonline

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
Oct 28, 2018
1,389
602
113
Red Feather Lakes, CO
Now I want to add the tilt to my hydraulic top link :mad:

I like your setup. Did the land pride come with the wheels or is that an option?
Wheels are an option (at least they were on my rear angle blade setup).

I have exactly the same setup as @NHSleddog but with a rear blade instead of the rake. It is awesome. I have been thinking about getting the rake as well. With the LP setup you can interchange the rake for the blade and use the same mount.