Got a great deal on a hydraulic post driver. Any way to to get it to work on my l355ss without Breaking the bank?
Probably but to start how about a lot more info on the pounder.Got a great deal on a hydraulic post driver. Any way to to get it to work on my l355ss without Breaking the bank?
Shaver HD 8Probably but to start how about a lot more info on the pounder.
Do you have a manual?
Make and model?
What tractor was it operating on before it came up for sale?
Pictures would be a big help.
Dave
Was able to find the post driver manual which is a great help.Shaver HD 8
Minimum hydraulic requirements 3 gpm
Not sure what tractor ot was on before
Already bought the post driver shaver HD8Was able to find the post driver manual which is a great help.
Have you seen the unit you would like to buy? Does it have one hydraulic valve and lever?
How many hoses from the driver are there that need to be connected to your tractor? 2 or 3.
Now questions about your tractor. ( Sorry about all the questions but it is the only way to figure out what equipment is on these reliable but older machines.)
Does it have a loader?
If it has a loader how many hoses are attached to the loader valve. 6 or 7.
Does it have power steering? Does the power steering have its own pump and reservoir or is it part of the tractor's hydraulic system
Do you have an Operators' Manual for your tractor.
Are there any hydraulic connections on the rear of your tractor which might have been used to power a dump trailer or even a wood splitter.
The key tractor component to allow successful connection of the post driver is a HYDRAULIC BLOCK OUTLET TYPE.
Be patient, In the end I expect we will be successful but figuring out the fine details will take some time.
If the driver is a sale you want to not miss out on let me know.
Dave
My question in post #4, now knowing you have a loader, becomes much more important:Already bought the post driver shaver HD8
It has the valve body with lever
2 hose one small and one large as the return fluid needs to exit without resistance
My tractor has no rear remotes
Does have a few
Has power steering
The loader is fed from a block to the left under the seat.
My thought was to have a quick attach from the loader function where as the loader could be unhook and the post driver using that hydraulic circuit..... or possibly a T of the fel circuit too a quick connect
DickHope I'm not confusing things, but I've had a few L345/L355s so here goes:
On L345 and L355 models there is 4-bolt cap under the seat, left side, that makes two high-pressure ports from one source. To install a loader valve, the cap is replaced by an aluminum port block (like part no. 70050-00279).
The block has two ports, one to power an aux valve (like a loader) and the other to connect high-pressure oil from the aux valve's power-beyond port to run the tractor's 3-point hitch. See attached pic.
I'm jumping ahead on Dave's post a bit - sounds like your loader is connected to a block like this already. A loader valve often has 7 hoses, one of them being its "power-beyond" hose.
An easy way to get power to your driver would be to install its new control valve in series with one of the high-pressure hoses between the block and loader valve, moving the loader's power-beyond hose to the supply port of the new driver valve instead, and the routing the driver valve's PB hose back to the port block. Clear as mud, eh?
Don't know the GPM of the hydraulics on the L355 - but all it effects is the speed of raising the ram before the next whack. Spring and ram-weight do the hammering. vid here
6 hose to the felMy question in post #4, now knowing you have a loader, becomes much more important:
If it has a loader how many hoses are attached to the loader valve. 6 or 7.
Your tractor has a Open Center hydraulic system so Tee'ing into any line except a Tank line will not work.
Dave
6 hose to the fel
Those drivers have an open center valve and simply use the hydraulic cylinder to cock the spring. Pulling the lever fires the spring, exhausting the oil and releasing the hammer. Plumb it like any other open center valve. Are you sure the loader valve does not have a power beyond port for the 3pt? That would be the preferred plumbing but you could use the tank return if push came to shove.Dick
I have been reading Shaver manuals and watching videos for hours.
Since the driver is already purchased, has its own valve without PB and further the cylinder is single acting, I do not see things being as simple as putting the driver in series with the PB circuit.
I suspect the large quick drain to the case hose has flow all the time except when the cylinder is being extended but the manual does not say nor the videos I have looked at. I am mindful of the Open Center design and the relief valve being in the flanged outlet assembly,
If the PB circuit is interrupted without continuation, the 3 pt is not going to work and this is a necessary part of the post pounding operation.
The driver this owner has is the simple one with one lever not the tilt and lean models powering double acting position cylinders in addition to the single acting hammer.
With the above additional facts, if you have further ideas I would welcome them
Dave
DanThose drivers have an open center valve and simply use the hydraulic cylinder to cock the spring. Pulling the lever fires the spring, exhausting the oil and releasing the hammer. Plumb it like any other open center valve. Are you sure the loader valve does not have a power beyond port for the 3pt? That would be the preferred plumbing but you could use the tank return if push came to shove.
As to flow I have added remotes for that exact model Shaver to ancient 3 GPM Ford tractors and it worked fine.
Dan
If as you said the loader is powered by the hydraulic block near the seat, and, if you only have 6 hoses connected to the loader valve something is amiss..
6 hose to the fel
Exactly - something in this description does not add up. If the loader valve does not have a separate tank return line it is not equipped with a power beyond circuit. and the tank return is being used to power the 3pt.If as you said the loader is powered by the hydraulic block near the seat, and, if you only have 6 hoses connected to the loader valve something is amiss.
The Owner's manual page explicitly states to use the flange type outlet the valve connected to the outlet must have power beyond.
View attachment 59741
Try and clean up the loader valve so you can see any markings cast into the valve body.
Specifically, I want you to look for a T.
If you find a T trace the hose to see exactly where it goes. If it connects to the flange type outlet, the loader is plumbed incorrectly and is dangerous because of the risk of the loader valve body splitting and spraying oil at pressures high enough to pierce the skin.
The T port will be rated in the range of 400 to 450 psi. When you lift a weight on the 3 pt hitch this pressure can rise to the system max of perhaps 2,000 psi.
Dave
I understand your perspective perfectly and I am 100% in agreement with you on how it should be plumbed. I have designed, built, and sold dozens of remote add-ons for tractors over the last 30 years and never had a problem when the owner insisted (over my objections) on using a tank return as a power beyond. Of course that is the sort of anecdotal data that engineers like you and I distrust. That said here are three possible ways to do it correctly - I am sure someone can think of others:I do not want to be disagreeing with anyone. As a professional engineer, my advice is limited when safety is involved.
Since Dan feels his solution will work, I will step back.
Dave
Interesting. I have a B7200 of that era and the WSM for it covers the operation of the hydraulics in great detail. Documentation for options tends to be skimpy even on the new machines. I just took delivery of an L3901 and it was hell getting info on the remote valve options - the one dealer mechanic I spoke with while I was considering my options clearly did not know how the valves on the standard L are plumbed or what components came with the kits. They couldn't even show me a picture of what I was buying. I was still poised to take the $$$ plunge for factory remotes but after doing the research and seeing what it was going to get me I decided to roll my own. The controls for the OEM valves are well integrated with the operator's station and very tempting but the outlet blocks are cheap, minimally functional add-ons and look like an afterthought. Swapping them out for the far better components used on the Grand L would have added another $1000 to the cost.Found a couple related pics in the L355ss WSM. One shows its priority valve (that favors the hyd shuttle ) The other shows the "hydraulic block cover". Documentation of these early machines is sketchy. The aluminum block isn't mentioned.