Rust Busters...

[torch]

Torch, have you used it on a project yet? Like to see how it works for you.

Yes, two projects that required heat. First was a FWD axle nut that didn't want to budge with a 3' bar. It took a while to heat that sucker up in mid-January, but it did do the job. Second was a pitman arm that didn't want to come off the steering box.

Oh, and I used it as a preventative measure on a power steering line connector -- one of those situations where there was a good chance the nut would twist the line off. I just wrapped the flexible wire around the nut a few times.

In each case, penetrating oil was also used. It smokes like the dickens but doesn't flame when the inductive heater is applied. I think it helps draw the penetrating oil into the joint, much like the candle trick.

 

[D2Cat]

Yes, two projects that required heat. First was a FWD axle nut that didn't want to budge with a 3' bar. It took a while to heat that sucker up in mid-January, but it did do the job. Second was a pitman arm that didn't want to come off the steering box.

Oh, and I used it as a preventative measure on a power steering line connector -- one of those situations where there was a good chance the nut would twist the line off. I just wrapped the flexible wire around the nut a few times.

In each case, penetrating oil was also used. It smokes like the dickens but doesn't flame when the inductive heater is applied. I think it helps draw the penetrating oil into the joint, much like the candle trick.

If a bolt or stud was broken off and maybe protruding out maybe 1/4" could this be used to heat that small area and maybe turn it with a vice grip? I guess, can you focus the heat in a small area?

 

[torch]

If a bolt or stud was broken off and maybe protruding out maybe 1/4" could this be used to heat that small area and maybe turn it with a vice grip? I guess, can you focus the heat in a small area?

I think it would heat it somewhat, but haven't really tried that. Of course, heating the stud expands it into the hole whereas heating a nut expands it off the bolt, but either way should encourage penetrating oil to be drawn into the joint.

If possible, one of the best ways to get a broken stud out is to weld a nut to the top of it.

 

[scottyb]

I bought one of these over the winter: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07XNZV1RP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not getting rid of my torches just yet, but it is remarkably effective and far safer in tight quarters.

And way, way cheaper to operate than oxy-acetelyne!

Torch,
Thank you for the Amazon link - I didn't know a tool like this existed.
I could see where it would be much safer and cheaper than Oxy/Acetylene.
When I deem it safe to use, I have a little propane torch attachment with a venturi port on the side and sucks air into the flame. It just screws onto a standard propane cylinder -works good to make a hotter flame.
Scotty B.

 

[scottyb]

I think it would heat it somewhat, but haven't really tried that. Of course, heating the stud expands it into the hole whereas heating a nut expands it off the bolt, but either way should encourage penetrating oil to be drawn into the joint.

If possible, one of the best ways to get a broken stud out is to weld a nut to the top of it.

Great trick! I have used this method to remove broken studs from my Ford 8N engine tractor projects!
Scotty B.

 

[scottyb]

Ran across this file while looking for information on freeing up plungers on a Cat engine.

It's about 3 years old, but shouldn't matter.

I get the acetone in a qt. can at Wal Mart paint dept.


Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.They are below. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid.

An Old Boy mechanic( he used it on a WW2 Jeep engine ) taught me to free pistons/piston rings in 'stuck' engines by soaking the cylinders with Kano Kroil. I've been able to free up 2 Ford 8N tractor engines by pouring a teaspoon full down each sparkplug hole and just waiting. Finally, after 2 weeks, and plenty of Kroil, I was able to rotate the crankshaft through a whole cycle. I went ahead and disassembled the engine without damaging any of its other components.
He also taught me how to 'blow out' a broken engine stud in the block of the 4 cylinder flat head. You get it glowing bright orange and hit the oxygen right in the center of the hole; but, before the surrounding cast iron block starts to show any color. You gotta use a small cutting torch tip ( the angle head type for scarfing spot welds works good) and a steady hand!
Scotty B.

 

[D2Cat]

An Old Boy mechanic( he used it on a WW2 Jeep engine ) taught me to free pistons/piston rings in 'stuck' engines by soaking the cylinders with Kano Kroil. I've been able to free up 2 Ford 8N tractor engines by pouring a teaspoon full down each sparkplug hole and just waiting. Finally, after 2 weeks, and plenty of Kroil, I was able to rotate the crankshaft through a whole cycle. I went ahead and disassembled the engine without damaging any of its other components.
He also taught me how to 'blow out' a broken engine stud in the block of the 4 cylinder flat head. You get it glowing bright orange and hit the oxygen right in the center of the hole; but, before the surrounding cast iron block starts to show any color. You gotta use a small cutting torch tip ( the angle head type for scarfing spot welds works good) and a steady hand!
Scotty B.

If you don't have a steady hand you're in deep do do! I have purchased Kroil by the gallon when I was working on freeing D2 steering clutches.

 

[Downeaster]

Ran across this file while looking for information on freeing up plungers on a Cat engine.

It's about 3 years old, but shouldn't matter.

I get the acetone in a qt. can at Wal Mart paint dept.


Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.They are below. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Other than the ATF/Acetone mix my best luck was with Kano Kroil, but that is very expensive. I now have another helper which I also like Deep Creep. Kano Kroil loosened a stuck lock nut I had tried for 3 weeks to break loose. Overnight and the Kroil did the job first time.