Rust Busters...

[zippyslug31]

...all the 'busters' I'm aware of are just lubricants, like the ATF is.

And based on the data found in the original post it seems that ATF is a better lubricant than all of the other "lubricants" mentions.
So what's a better lubricant than ATF? Motor oil perhaps? Wonder what an acetone/motor oil combo would do for a fella?
Who knows... maybe to a greater/lesser extent, this is all that the "rust buster" products are under the covers?

 

[zippyslug31]

I guess this is my first post? maybe,.. cant remember that's bad,... Anyhow the acetone and atf works good I have the Kno Kroil as well. Just remember to keep the mixture tightly sealed when you are done or it will evaporate faster than zippo lighter fluid. The tin oil can is a great way to use it but don't leave it in there or all you will have is atf. Good luck Yep first one,.. Hello all !

Howdy Mud, and welcome...

 

[Black Mud Farm]

Thanks Zippy, most of the stuff here seems to be about the bx type of tractor there must be a lot of them. Mine is older but I do love it and use it a lot. I thought I should join up somewhere cause some day I will need help I am sure.

 

[Riplin]

I use Fluid Film in the gold colored can. Its woolwax based and is absolutely amazing. Its actually used in the food industry because its non toxic.

 

[Daren Todd]

Trying vinegar on a pump end. Been fighting the thing for two days trying to get it apart. Did some searching and found vinegar will remove rust. So figured I would give it a shot.



Went to wally world and picked up ten gallons of distilled vinegar. Capped the thing off and filled it up. Now to let it set for a day or so

Tried a rose bud, heat, a puller, a BFH, an even bigger BFH

Would have thought something would have broke by now

 

[Mike9]

I'm trying to remove a rear hub on my mine and the right side came off lickity split, but the left side doesn't want to budge. I'm trying to drive rust buster in and let sit overnight. I'll put the impact wrench to it and vibrate the crap out - hopefully. I want to derust the parts and move the wheels out another inch.

 

[Daren Todd]

40 hrs with the vinegar. A rose bud, 20 ton bottle jack, gear puller, jack out bolts and a 12 pound sledge got it to budge 1/8 of an inch.

Then all of the above. Plus chisels, splitting wedges, and a 4lb hammer finally got it apart with out busting anything After fighting with it for three days, I feel like I was the loser in an a$$ kicking contest

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mike9]

I just got my hub off - took me three days of lube and tap, lube and tap. Today I soaked it best I could with liquid wrench and the minute I saw it move I got two hammers on it. Then stopped and lubed some more and repeat till finally it gave up and popped off.

 

[Daren Todd]

I just got my hub off - took me three days of lube and tap, lube and tap. Today I soaked it best I could with liquid wrench and the minute I saw it move I got two hammers on it. Then stopped and lubed some more and repeat till finally it gave up and popped off.

I would have traded projects with you in an instant There were three of us on that beast this afternoon before it popped loose. One running the impact on the gear puller, and two of us with flogging hammers, chisels and splitting wedges. With the occasional swing from a 12 lb sledge for good measure

That pump spent the better part of three years on a barge in the Gulf pumping salt water for dredging. Would explain a lot why it was such a bear to get separated

 

[Tooljunkie]

Daren, next rust buster you should try is hot water and an air hammer. I have a bumping tool in my air hammer, pouring hot water around the rust and rattling it does amazing things. Imagine brown mud.

Trailer hitch stuck so bad owner trailered his stuff without a pin for a year on hopes it would come apart. He poured hot water while i rattled. Took 3 minutes to get it out.

My rustbuster lube is sea foam liquid with a little atf added. Works well. In a flip top bottle that will drip exactly where i want it.
But lately i been having great results with LPS-2.

 

[Cobraone]

I***8217;ve had the best results using an air hammer screw buster and two products knocker loose and mouse milk ( tri flow) keep the triflow off your hands. We used tri flow on turbine engine inlet guide vanes living in extreme temperature swings.

New Kubota B2650 owner

 

[vvbigbb]

As a Kid, I worked in a junk yard, and learned a lot about removing rusted nuts. Yes, liquid wrench etc can be helpful, but even days of soaking the nuts, sometimes doesn't work. First try tightening the nut, "Righty Tighty-Lefty Loosey", if this gets a little movement, wire brush the exposed threads and apply a lubricant, then try to remove the nut. Also, a left handed threaded bolt will have a 'L' stamped on the the end, so removal will be the opposite of the above rule.

 

[MarkH]

Penetrant, of course. I can't wait to try the home brew.
I have to break loose alot of hardware that has Loctite on it and I have found that heat is your friend. But maybe just use Kroil if you are using heat. Heat is good, fire maybe not so good.

 

[Hanksvwmech]

I haven't used all the concoctions that could be, but I have understudied 45+ years ago of a WW2 radial mechanic who built racing V8 flat heads. "Maltby" may be a best peretrant you have never heard of.

 

[dlundblad]

I have still yet to try Kroil and ATF/ Acetone 50/50.

A lot of people seem to prefer Liquid Wrench over PB Blaster as the OP shows, but my experience has proved to be just the opposite. Maybe I don’t shake it enough before use.

 

[scottyb]

Yes, impacts will do that if you go 'guns a blazin' out of the gate on them. Usually if you sneak up the power using air pressure it will break the nut or bolt loose before it hits the 'rip the head off' point. As with all things, exercise patience. Let the penetrant soak at least an hour, and if you can sneak it on the surface the day (or week!) before you know you'll be working on it, all the better.

I had rusted exhaust manifold studs and nuts. I knew I was going to tackle the job the next weekend. For a week, once a day I put PBBlaster on them. Came work time, all but one backed out with a gentle twist of the socket wrench, the one that didn't was the broken stud and it came out with just my fingers twisting it out (yup, was rusted solid a few days before).

Patience is everything with rusty nuts and bolts.

Good Advice!
I find, after liberal applications of ATF/Acetone mix, waiting, shocking with a hammer and punch, slightly tightening, then backing off counter-clockwise, then clockwise, more penetrant, more counter-clockwise, clockwise rotation, patience, I can remove (most) stubborn, rusted connections. I do use heat, but not until the penetrant has evaporated ( after a few unexpected fires!)
Scotty B.

 

[torch]

You can always use the heat wrench but that's a hazard in and of itself so you need to be selective in the application of it.

I bought one of these over the winter: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07XNZV1RP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not getting rid of my torches just yet, but it is remarkably effective and far safer in tight quarters.

And way, way cheaper to operate than oxy-acetelyne!

 

[D2Cat]

Torch, have you used it on a project yet? Like to see how it works for you.

 

[ctfjr]

. . . in Aviation, we use stuff called Mouse milk that works well also..

Best stuff I've ever used

 

[Magicman]

My bottle of Mouse Milk came today but my application is 46 miles away at my property/tree farm, so it will be a few weeks before I can trial it. Mouse Milk is highly rated in the aircraft industry.

I will be busting the bolts loose that hold the gear boxes on my Bush Hog, one of which has a broken output shaft. Gonna be a chore.

I have used 50-50 Acetone/ATF with limited results and I am a big fan of Bluecreeper LINK