Crank seal leaking oil

[woodsy]

Hello, new guy here and could use some help.
Have a L3300 w/loader that needs to have the crank seal replaced.
Oil is flying off the lower belt pulley.
Probably should buy a service manual but wondering
if anyone here has changed a crank seal out and how much there is to it.
Maybe a link to instructions, can't seem to find much here or online.
Have average mechanical skills, tools and would like to save on shop and
transport fees if possible.
Thanks

 

[Motion]

Step 1 get the correct manual and parts diagram for your tractor. After reading the manual you can decide weather to tackle the job yourself or sub it out. Seal replacement isn't rocket science, it's a matter of getting to it. Take your time. Drop the loader. Only use Kubota parts, most good suppliers will suggest what other parts you may need when changing the seal. Some engines have an "O" ring that should be changed in conjunction with the seal. You'll probably need to remove the radiator so I'd suggest changing the coolant. Are the coolant hoses in good condition? Belt? Inspect the shaft sealing area for damage, polish the hell out of it (suggest crocus cloth). Ensure that the new seal is pressed in squarely. Lubricate before installing. Again take your time! Good luck

 

[woodsy]

Parts diagram does show an o-ring and collar to go with the seal.
The old collar probably gets messed up removing it.
I have a pulley puller in my box somewhere and once the fan shroud comes off
can see how much room i have to work with.
Thanks for the input and tips Motion.
Any guesses what the shop labor bill would be on this project ?

 

[Motion]

Sounds like you're on the right track. I believe you can do it. I have no idea what shop charges might be but to pay somebody else to perform what you can do is foolish. The money you save can buy additional tools (you never have enough) and having the satisfaction of doing the job yourself. The downside of going down that path is you end up with more tools ( not just normal tools but specialized tools/testers/equipment, etc.) not to mention spare parts, then comes the every expanding shop space needed to house everything. I could do a thesis on the definition of wanting and needing.

 

[woodsy]

Sounds about right. Always have been stubborn about paying anyone
do do just about anything I can do or learn to do myself.
I figured knowing the shop bill would be incentive for me to tackle it .
I just recently purchased this machine and besides this oil leak
it all seems to be in pretty good working order.
Have had a green machine for the past 30 yrs that has never been in the shop
but it was much older and simpler , gas instead of diesel.
Acknowledge I'm in for a learning curve here.
Are all the older Kubota service manuals dowloads only ?
Don't see any paperbacks anywhere.

 

[Steve Neul]

Unless the oil is causing you a lot of trouble I think I would put the job off. It would involve literally splitting the tractor in two to access the seal. It's a lot of work especially if there is a front loader involved. Then while you are in there you might as well replace the clutch.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you want a Paperback WSM you can get them through a dealer.

Some models will require you to drop the front axle to remove the Crank pulley, some require you to drop the whole front frame.

You will not be able to easily pull the collar and O-ring off the crank without removing the front gear case, and that's a lot of work!

Now on the other had some models you can pull the front pulley seal and reinstall with almost no work at all.

Picture of that area on your model and I might be able to tell you how easy or hard it is.

FYI it's not always the seal that leaks, it's the collar getting worn that causes the leak, so you might get into it and still have to change the collar, which might or might not come off easily.

 

[woodsy]

For the price of $29.00 think I'll just buy the pdf download version of service manual from Kubota and print whatever pages I need.
Looking things over today seems to be plenty of room to pull the
pulley from the crankshaft. Bottom of pulley is 2-3" above the axle and
may not need to pull anything to replace the seal and collar.
I'll know more when I get the service manual but don't like having oil
spraying all over the front of engine , muffler , fire hazard ?, and dripping oil all over the property.
Appreciate all the input, new to orange.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

For the price of $29.00 think I'll just buy the pdf download version of service manual from Kubota and print whatever pages I need.
Looking things over today seems to be plenty of room to pull the
pulley from the crankshaft. Bottom of pulley is 2-3" above the axle and
may not need to pull anything to replace the seal and collar.
I'll know more when I get the service manual but don't like having oil
spraying all over the front of engine , muffler , fire hazard ?, and dripping oil all over the property.
Appreciate all the input, new to orange.

If you ask nice I'll give you the PDF of the manual.

 

[woodsy]

If you ask nice I'll give you the PDF of the manual.

Wow that would be awesome and much appreciated Wolfman.
Have to say I'm pretty excited about my new to me Kubota tractor
w/loader .
Thank You for helping me out !

 

[Motion]

Woodsy, I failed to ask how many hours on the tractor and did you really verify it's the front seal and not from some other source? Has it been "flying off" since you've had the tractor or did it just start? It's most likely the front seal but you don't want to replace it and not correct the problem. just be sure of your diagnosis. It wouldn't hurt to pressure wash and confirm plus you be working on a clean engine.

 

[woodsy]

That is a good question about the hours on it because it has me wondering
why a tractor with 1100 hrs on the meter is having a crank seal failure but it is 26 yrs old if that might matter..
Although the meter may not be accurate either but it is working.
Can't the hour meter be disabled ? Seems low hours for its age.
It was leaking when I bought it however.

 

[Motion]

42 hours a year! That little old lady barely had enough time to drive it to from church. If it is the seal great, if not it sure ain't going to hurt to change it. If your tractor is going to be a long term hold you may want to consider additional TLC in the next off season, to insure reliability and longevity.

 

[woodsy]

Appreciate the input Motion. Plan on keeping it long term
if it can be made right . Everything else on it seems in order
other than some weather cracked front tires.
The rears look to have been replaced at some point.
I'll be looking closer at this oil leak to be sure it is what it appears to be.
Almost looks like the timing case cover is new , very clean and shiny.
Suppose it could be leaking from there if it wasn't installed properly .
The pitfalls of buying used equipment.

 

[Motion]

So apparently someone else has been in there for one reason or another, check it real good. Two trends of thought 1. Try to have all parts in hand prior to beginning the task. 2. Wait for complete disassembly then make a complete parts list, which after ordering will give you time to clean parts to be reused, gasketed surfaces, etc. I prefer to store all tools used and clean the work area. Cover and protect all exposed surfaces. I use a lot of 1# coffee cans to place fasteners after cleaning and boxes for larger parts. Do as you feel is best but I prefer #243 Loctite or Permatex Orange on critical fasteners, Anti-Seize on other fasteners, Permatex #3 on gasketed surfaces, a good quality high temperature silicone on non-gasketed surfaces and Sil-Glyde on "O" rings and hoses. Cracked tires are the least of your problems, I'm certain with that age there's little things that should be addressed, it wouldn't hurt while awaiting parts to set the valves, adjust brakes/clutch, etc. and give everything the once over. Some don't worry about electrical connections until something doesn't work or smoke starts coming from some where, be reminded that good connection also means good grounds. Always have different sizes of black Ty-Raps in hand to secure anything that's flapping in the breeze.

 

[Steve Neul]

42 hours a year! That little old lady barely had enough time to drive it to from church. If it is the seal great, if not it sure ain't going to hurt to change it. If your tractor is going to be a long term hold you may want to consider additional TLC in the next off season, to insure reliability and longevity.

If the hour meter is correct I've averaged less than 24 hours a year on mine. Had it 34 years and it has 805 hours on it. I did buy a bigger tractor about 10 years ago for heavy work though. Started using the Kubota with just the bush hog.

 

[woodsy]

So I got the fan, belt and shroud out to get a good look at everything.
Started it up, helped not to have the belt slinging the oil all around.
Diagnosis: worn crank seal, light oil spray coming up from the shaft behind the pulley.
Now to order the parts and find a 46mm socket.
Thanks for all the help and tips.

 

[Motion]

You'll need to lock the crank down when removing the nut. Try an automotive parts store, they have pullers to lend. Stay curious as to why the previous owner changed the front cover. Between a slinger and a seal to have oil spraying out seems a little strange, especially if the seal was replaced when changing the cover, not many people pull a seal and reuse it. By any chance did you try removing the oil fill cap to ensure that the engine isn't being pressurized how is your engine vented? I also assume you're running the proper oil level. Just asking questions.

 

[woodsy]

You are right about the cover, having looked it over more don't think
it was ever changed or removed. Just cleaner looking than what I am used to.

How does one go about locking the crank down ? Seen trans in high gear with parking break on mentioned somewhere.

Looks like I'll be using a 3/4 ratchet for that job, not enough room for a impact wrench and deep socket w/o removing the radiator.
I'm assuming the crankcase is vented and oil level looks right. All good things to ponder though.

 

[Motion]

Have you've gotten your manual and read it? You may need to pull the starter and lock the ring gear. You might as well pull the radiator, if the socket and ratchet are tight, you'll never get a puller in there and there might be enough room for your impact. Wouldn't a 46mm shallow socket be better?