What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[B737]

B737, that is ingenuity at it's best.

or stupidity! lol I really need to build a proper detached shop. All I could think about was "if something goes wrong, this will not read or reflect well in the newspaper" but aside from checking clearances I didnt have to be near it.

It will fit it in the tractor shed but dont feel like stepping around the thing all year. I'm glad this particular unit is only about 300 pounds and not 500+.

The 2x6 'slide out stairs' are a Bilco product. I pop them out to maintain the sump pump and clean under the stairs but the light bulb went on when I started thinking about this puzzle.

 

[S-G-R]

Doing 50 hour service on the 2610.

 

[dirtydeed]

inches. I did some measuring. Figured out how to adapt the 1200 pound hoist to fit on the forks. Proceeded carefully as to not put the forks through the side of the house, lowering it, inching forward, lowering again, then down onto the dolly.

But, will it come out (thinking of Chinese finger trap)?

Just Kidding. Nice job.

 

[Old_Paint]

Installed a Piranha bar.

This bad boy is SHARP.

 

[River19]

Did a quick blade of the driveway as the 1" of snow followed by freezing rain froze up overnight and while today is mid 40s out, the lack of sun probably wouldn't have melted it all away......so I played with the tractorin the schloppy mess......

 

[fruitcakesa]

Fueled up and dug out my firewood log pile and recovered these beech rounds from the depths.

 

[Lil Foot]

Swapped the 10" toothed bucket for the 14" toothless bucket for an upcoming project.

 

[Old_Paint]

This:

Play.., I mean working, in my front yard. One out, one to go. Cut two small red oaks that were dead in the centers and feeding the wood ants. The brush and wood had already been removed when the missus took this. Me and the stump bucket are struggling with a 12 inch red oak stump with roots that go half-way to Hell. Donated most of the wood to the neighbor that cooked some Boston butt and ribs for us yesterday. Had to knock off 'cause I ran outta daylight and I need to get the 50H service done. That, and maybe a brake controller in my F-150 are on the agenda tomorrow.

Got the missus driving the little orange machine to help me out in the yard. Opens me up to get more done without having to swap seats. It's hydrostatic drive too, and nearly as much horsepower as the LX. Just doesn't have enough weight for heavy work. I think all the levers on the LX will intimidate her a little, but she needs to learn why it's so much fun running a tractor.

The stump closest to Little Orange is about 16 inches at the base. It came out a lot easier than the one I'm poking at on the LX. Probably because it didn't have much of a root structure being that close to the cedar. I don't think I spent more than 20 minutes getting that one out. I'm also trying to avoid a flower bed we have just the other side of my digging, too. Unfortunately, looks like one of the large tap roots goes right under the flower bed. If it weren't for bad luck, I wouldn't have any. Might have to expose that root and take the axe to it. For a little stump, that thing is SOLID. That tree has been struck by lightning, had the top broken out of it in 2005, and has been gnawed on by big black wood ants since I moved in, so I figured there wouldn't be much to digging it out. I was wrong. VERY wrong.

Not getting a response from the local dealer via e-mail re their bandwidth to do the 50H service, so their loss. I'll just get the filters and a couple gallons of UDT2 tomorrow, and keep the mechanic's fees in my pocket. Saves hauling it over there anyway. Planning on running Castrol GTX in the engine for as long as I own it. I run the same stuff in Little Orange, so if I keep a couple 5 quart jugs on the shelf and spare filters, I'll be good to go on the next oil change. The UDT2 is gonna be a different story. Didn't particularly want to mess with it, but the temps here hit nearly 80 today, and we didn't get the rain that was promised for the past two days. So, a little cardboard on the ground, and I'm good to go for oil changes and hydraulic/HSD filter changes. Hoping Express will take the waste oil. Guess I better find someone tomorrow that will . Maybe O'Reilly's parts house.

 

[Fordtech86]

and maybe a brake controller in my F-150 are on the agenda tomorrow.

I would recommend to add the factory integrated brake controller to your truck. Pretty simple to install, but will need to be programmed at a dealership.

 

[MOOTS]

This: View attachment 55674

Play.., I mean working, in my front yard. One out, one to go. Cut two small red oaks that were dead in the centers and feeding the wood ants. The brush and wood had already been removed when the missus took this. Me and the stump bucket are struggling with a 12 inch red oak stump with roots that go half-way to Hell. Donated most of the wood to the neighbor that cooked some Boston butt and ribs for us yesterday. Had to knock off 'cause I ran outta daylight and I need to get the 50H service done. That, and maybe a brake controller in my F-150 are on the agenda tomorrow.

Got the missus driving the little orange machine to help me out in the yard. Opens me up to get more done without having to swap seats. It's hydrostatic drive too, and nearly as much horsepower as the LX. Just doesn't have enough weight for heavy work. I think all the levers on the LX will intimidate her a little, but she needs to learn why it's so much fun running a tractor.

The stump closest to Little Orange is about 16 inches at the base. It came out a lot easier than the one I'm poking at on the LX. Probably because it didn't have much of a root structure being that close to the cedar. I don't think I spent more than 20 minutes getting that one out. I'm also trying to avoid a flower bed we have just the other side of my digging, too. Unfortunately, looks like one of the large tap roots goes right under the flower bed. If it weren't for bad luck, I wouldn't have any. Might have to expose that root and take the axe to it. For a little stump, that thing is SOLID. That tree has been struck by lightning, had the top broken out of it in 2005, and has been gnawed on by big black wood ants since I moved in, so I figured there wouldn't be much to digging it out. I was wrong. VERY wrong.

Not getting a response from the local dealer via e-mail re their bandwidth to do the 50H service, so their loss. I'll just get the filters and a couple gallons of UDT2 tomorrow, and keep the mechanic's fees in my pocket. Saves hauling it over there anyway. Planning on running Castrol GTX in the engine for as long as I own it. I run the same stuff in Little Orange, so if I keep a couple 5 quart jugs on the shelf and spare filters, I'll be good to go on the next oil change. The UDT2 is gonna be a different story. Didn't particularly want to mess with it, but the temps here hit nearly 80 today, and we didn't get the rain that was promised for the past two days. So, a little cardboard on the ground, and I'm good to go for oil changes and hydraulic/HSD filter changes. Hoping Express will take the waste oil. Guess I better find someone tomorrow that will . Maybe O'Reilly's parts house.

Fill the tires on the mower. I did my cub cadet lawn tractor, really helped pulling a trailer with turf tires. Also stopped me from spinning one side in a few spots while mowing. I put 4 gallons in each rear tire. 2 RV antifreeze and 2 water.

TSC sells the adapter, but I don’t believe it is needed. I rigged up a old piece of water hose with funnel on it that screwed in adapter.
Pull core and with stem at 12 o’clock press a tight fitting hose on with a funnel on the other end. Use knee to get out as much air as possible, fill funnel and the tire will suck the fluid in.

 

[bmblank]

I finally got the lights on my ROPS installed and plugged in. I've had the lights attached for probably a couple weeks now, but never had time to wire them up. Got a project box to the left of the seat just behind the range selector with 2 switches, a 12v plug and a set of USB plugs. Powered it with the keyed auxiliary hidden under the fender.
Power goes up and to 2 sets of LEDs, 2 forward and 2 reverse, mounted on 2 of Ken's ROPS mounts. They look a little goofy the way they're mounted (at an angle, instead of just at the top of the bar), but there's a reason for that. It just barely fits in my garage as it is. Throw lights on top and I'd have to fold something down every time I want to pull in. That's a non-starter.
I have pictures, but they're on my phone. So, now that I got all the typing down, hopefully it'll be easier to just add a few pictures to this at some point. I'll try to remember to do that before this gets buried.

 

[Old_Paint]

I finally got the lights on my ROPS installed and plugged in. I've had the lights attached for probably a couple weeks now, but never had time to wire them up. Got a project box to the left of the seat just behind the range selector with 2 switches, a 12v plug and a set of USB plugs. Powered it with the keyed auxiliary hidden under the fender.
Power goes up and to 2 sets of LEDs, 2 forward and 2 reverse, mounted on 2 of Ken's ROPS mounts. They look a little goofy the way they're mounted (at an angle, instead of just at the top of the bar), but there's a reason for that. It just barely fits in my garage as it is. Throw lights on top and I'd have to fold something down every time I want to pull in. That's a non-starter.
I have pictures, but they're on my phone. So, now that I got all the typing down, hopefully it'll be easier to just add a few pictures to this at some point. I'll try to remember to do that before this gets buried.

Would love to see what you did. I've looked at a lot of installs, getting bits from each about what I want to do. I'm leaning toward something like a relay powered from the existing headlight system so that when I turn off the ignition, the lights are off. On the other hand, LED's pull so little current, and a work light that high if I get caught in the dark would be handier than a shirt pocket. Do I really care if it doesn't turn off with the ignition off? We're talking a few milliamps from a battery designed to crank a diesel engine, not to mention, I think I'd notice a light bar left on before the battery was dead.

 

[Old_Paint]

I would recommend to add the factory integrated brake controller to your truck. Pretty simple to install, but will need to be programmed at a dealership.

Exactly the plan. Have the OE controller part and FORSCAN and the OBDII/USB converter. NO Stealership required. The weather turned off soggy and cool again last night after having sunny high 70's yesterday, so I've done almost nothing today. My truck was purchased with a towing package. It still puzzles me WHY there would be a towing package without a brake control, especially with a dual electrical connector (7-pin blade or 4-pin plug) connector on the back and all the wiring in between the built-in controller and the plug. WHY should it be necessary to give Ford a bunch of money for something that should have been turned on already? It really isn't.

I ain't afraid of a control system for a vehicle. I write software to control entire power systems in paper mills. I've built test facilities for transmissions that go in M60, M1A2, 155, M88 retrievers, Bradleys, and a host of other heavy vehicles. I think I can handle enabling one parameter in a Ford BCM.

 

[Fordtech86]

Exactly the plan. Have the OE controller part and FORSCAN and the OBDII/USB converter. NO Stealership required. The weather turned off soggy and cool again last night after having sunny high 70's yesterday, so I've done almost nothing today. My truck was purchased with a towing package. It still puzzles me WHY there would be a towing package without a brake control, especially with a dual electrical connector (7-pin blade or 4-pin plug) connector on the back and all the wiring in between the built-in controller and the plug. WHY should it be necessary to give Ford a bunch of money for something that should have been turned on already? It really isn't.

I ain't afraid of a control system for a vehicle. I write software to control entire power systems in paper mills. I've built test facilities for transmissions that go in M60, M1A2, 155, M88 retrievers, Bradleys, and a host of other heavy vehicles. I think I can handle enabling one parameter in a Ford BCM.

Good deal

 

[i7win7]

Old_Paint this may give you some ideas

Adding electrical devices to tractor

Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts). I'll start with the high power preparations. #1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[Old_Paint]

Fill the tires on the mower. I did my cub cadet lawn tractor, really helped pulling a trailer with turf tires. Also stopped me from spinning one side in a few spots while mowing. I put 4 gallons in each rear tire. 2 RV antifreeze and 2 water.

TSC sells the adapter, but I don’t believe it is needed. I rigged up a old piece of water hose with funnel on it that screwed in adapter.
Pull core and with stem at 12 o’clock press a tight fitting hose on with a funnel on the other end. Use knee to get out as much air as possible, fill funnel and the tire will suck the fluid in.

Uh oh, now you started somethin .....

 

[Old_Paint]

Old_Paint this may give you some ideas

Adding electrical devices to tractor

Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts). I'll start with the high power preparations. #1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you...

www.tractorbynet.com

Thanks for the link. Good references where to look for materials. Mostly interested in mounting techniques and wire routing.

 

[dirtydeed]

Thanks for the link. Good references where to look for materials. Mostly interested in mounting techniques and wire routing.

I'll throw this out to you since you have a similar machine. Do with it what you want.

I was able to get a very reasonably priced wire harness (with relay and lighted switch) from amazon. Added some additional sheathed wire and ran it up inside my ROPS and out the factory hole in the ROPS. Wired to two led lights on 125 lb magnetic mounts. Works great.

edit: one caution I will make is that I had to get some new light brackets. The brackets that come with the lights are pretty light duty aluminum. I had them mounted to the magnets with a spacer in between which allowed them to wiggle a little too much when I was grinding stumps. That motion fatigued the aluminum mount. I have since replaced the light brackets and cut the stud in the magnet shorter so that the light bracket is mounted flush to the stud on the magnet. No more wobble. The pic below is from the first time I mounted the lights.

Here is the wiring kit and lights...

 

[bmblank]

Man, this thread moves fast.
Here are the pictures I promised.
As far where to get power from, I wanted mine to be keyed. Too easy to leave a switch on and kill a battery. Or have a kid turn a switch on while playing.
It was just way too easy to use the keyed power they were nice enough to leave under the fender. I would have liked to put the switches in the dash somewhere, but this made the wiring so much easier, plus the only permanent modifications I had to make were drilling a couple holes in the fender to mount my box. I suppose I could have even done that with some VHB tape, but these lights are going to be on there for the life of the tractor, so a couple .190" holes in the fender is no big deal.

I'm more concerned about the amperage of the USB plugs. They're capable of 3 amps,it says. When I plug my phone in it actually registers as a turbo charger. That's 1.6 amps. I measured the amperage of the lights, but I don't trust that multimeter. Either way, I know that I'm well below the 10amp fuse.

If you've got it, just plug into that spare wire under the fender. It'll save so much hassle.

Edit:
Switches (not terribly happy with, but I guess they work)

Amazon.com

12v/USB plugs (Haven't had any time with it, but the reasonableness of it seems reasonable)

Amazon.com

Lights
I don't have a link. They were a christmas gift from my brother. Thanks dude. I know he's on here, I don't know if he'll see this. If you see this, you wanna post a link? Cool, thanks.

Edit again
Bro said he doesn't get on OTT much these days, but he sent me a link for the lights.

Amazon.com

According to the math, 27W at 12v. 2 1/4 amp per light, times 4 lights equals 9 amps.... They're definitely not drawing 9 amps. I'll have to get my more trustworthy ampmeter (was in the basement at the time, that's why I used the cheapo). I bet even with my phone plugged in, I'm probably only drawing 5 amps or so.

 

[ctfjr]

I started piping my remote valves a while ago but was reluctant to pull the tractor hydraulics apart until I was sure we wouldn't have snow for a while. The hoses were all connected on the valve side. I was pretty sure I was capable of fubaring something on the tractor side just before a big storm so I wouldn't be able to plow.
Last Friday I started and quickly realized I needed a couple more JIC fittings. Thanks to Amazon I had them on Monday and today I took time off from work (walked from my office in the house to the garage) and finished it up.
It may not be perfect but its perfectly functional. I warmed up the tractor and then operated the remotes (3) individually. They all caused the motor to bog down as expected. As an added plus - no leaks

The hydraulic block side:

I was concerned about running the remotes' return line in front of the oil filter but that was a non issue, plenty of space to remove it. Brian of FitRite gave me the idea of rotating the FEL return line long turn ell 180 degrees (it used to go where the tee now goes).

and the FEL end:

That's the power beyond connection (I hope) with the 2 45deg ells on it. They serve to offset and extend out a little.

In retrospect it was a fun project and Brian was kind enough to hold my hand throughout.