What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
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Sharryn
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
'15 B3350, LA534A Loader, Land Pride RTA1258 Tiller, BH77 Backhoe, Forks
No, it's located south of State College and east of Altoona. Very small town and I'm out in the country from it.
Sorry forgot that part. They are on a m7040 cab tractor so I used the factory locations and switches.
I took the dash panel on my B6200 apart - what a PITA!!! Yesterday I removed all the front sheet metal work and started cleaning. I have to blow out the radiator with the compressor then paint. Mice had been in the panel and man what a mess - huge nest, lost of rusty screws, corrosion and some dry rotted wiring to repair. Hey is there any slick way to test my hour meter while it's out? How 'bout the flasher unit?
ShaunBlake
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B6100D; B219; Piranha bar; Hodge stabilizers; Filled Ag rears; R322T w/48" deck
I feel your pain! For nearly a year I've been thinking up every new project or lame excuse not to tackle the open circuits under the dash of my B6100.
Hoping you'll be posting pics of your mess and what you do to correct it.
Used my trusty steed to remove an old concrete slab that was in the way of construction.
-- Carl
-- Carl
I will Shaun. I've had the tractor for a few weeks and it runs great, but for winter I need all lights and flashers for the road. Also I wanted to clear the football size nest that was in there as well as the one in between the radiator and hydraulic cooler. This'll give me a chance to straighten out some sheet metal, sand, prime, paint and give it a good servicing. It's supposed to be really nice next week so the game is on. Next year I'll do back half.
As for electrics any molex connectors that are bad will be replaced, or if small I'll just sub in weather proof spades. Good thing I have lots of heat shrink on hand.
Mike
As for electrics any molex connectors that are bad will be replaced, or if small I'll just sub in weather proof spades. Good thing I have lots of heat shrink on hand.
Mike
Part of yesterday and today placed coarse rock around the pole barn to help prevent soil erosion. Had backfilled and compacted earlier (maybe a month ago) 20 cu yds of dirt mainly on the south and west sides of the structure. Have to extend the drain pipes on the south side prior to finish with rock as you can see.
Will let it dry out this week as it rained Thursday into Friday here and the west side would be a big mess of mud if I tried now. Coarse rock is about 12" thick. Had 30 tons brought in(2 loads). Will be nice and less stressful when this project is finished. The previous home owners either ran out of money or just didn't care(late 20's early 30's).
Sure do enjoy that FEL boy oh boy couldn't imagine doing this with out it!!! Had the box blade on the back to help counterbalance it since my rear drive tires aren't loaded yet.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Will let it dry out this week as it rained Thursday into Friday here and the west side would be a big mess of mud if I tried now. Coarse rock is about 12" thick. Had 30 tons brought in(2 loads). Will be nice and less stressful when this project is finished. The previous home owners either ran out of money or just didn't care(late 20's early 30's).
Sure do enjoy that FEL boy oh boy couldn't imagine doing this with out it!!! Had the box blade on the back to help counterbalance it since my rear drive tires aren't loaded yet.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
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Will spray and kill that scrub brush growing there by the man door. Then cut it out after its dead. Still have roughly half the rock left. So plenty left for west side of barn.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
I spent two hours working on the private road we live off of trying to get rid of washboards. It had rained a couple of days ago and a little last night, but the rock was packed pretty hard. It took quit a few passes to get it broke up with the shanks on the box blade, but I did get it worked up and smoothed out. I wish I had a bigger tractor so I could do more of it faster.
This weeknd, I hauled the 54" mower deck from my BX25D, hooked up the 48" lawn sweeper, and picked up all the malpe, poplar, and alder leaves from mine and two neighbours, brought them to my garden, then reset the sweeper little closer and grabbed 3 sweeper loads of pine needles. I used the front bucket to spread it all approx. 8" deep all over my veggie garden
(30' X 60'), then hooked up the DelMarino 52" tiller and made three passes, mixing all into the soil. Final pass was close to 12" deep. I then went to neighbours and tilled up his plot for the winter, and his brother moseyed over, said a couple subtle hints, so I ended up tilling his two gardens also.
The little jewel worked perfectly, may have burned a gallon of fuel, didn't take any money for the work, just glad I could do it so effortlessly.
Next week, the I'll begin building my winter cab.
(30' X 60'), then hooked up the DelMarino 52" tiller and made three passes, mixing all into the soil. Final pass was close to 12" deep. I then went to neighbours and tilled up his plot for the winter, and his brother moseyed over, said a couple subtle hints, so I ended up tilling his two gardens also.
The little jewel worked perfectly, may have burned a gallon of fuel, didn't take any money for the work, just glad I could do it so effortlessly.
Next week, the I'll begin building my winter cab.
Over the weekend, I figured I'd tackle all the electrical gremlins running rampant through by little B7100. Headlights and the one taillight would stay on after the key was switched off. The hazards also wouldn't work.
Ripped it all apart, found the wire harness that ran through the firewall had chaffing. It was almost all the way through the hot wire from the starter and the wire to the headlights, with the headlight wire in direct contact with the hot wire. The headlight wire is spliced in with the single taillight at the plastic connector under the dash, meaning it was under constant power as well. About 30 minutes of cut and repair, and they were working as advertised. Learned a ton about the electrical on my little tank this weekend. Also got the hazards working.
Then, I found out the ground on my headlights was shot. Attempted to clean the sockets out with some 300 grit sand paper, but it just wouldn't work. So I've got to figure out if I should A) Buy new light sockets from Kubota, or B) Fab up a mount for some aftermarket LED bulbs. Once that's finished, I'll just need to wire up my 2 27W LED work lights, and I'll be ready for snow pushing.
Ripped it all apart, found the wire harness that ran through the firewall had chaffing. It was almost all the way through the hot wire from the starter and the wire to the headlights, with the headlight wire in direct contact with the hot wire. The headlight wire is spliced in with the single taillight at the plastic connector under the dash, meaning it was under constant power as well. About 30 minutes of cut and repair, and they were working as advertised. Learned a ton about the electrical on my little tank this weekend. Also got the hazards working.
Then, I found out the ground on my headlights was shot. Attempted to clean the sockets out with some 300 grit sand paper, but it just wouldn't work. So I've got to figure out if I should A) Buy new light sockets from Kubota, or B) Fab up a mount for some aftermarket LED bulbs. Once that's finished, I'll just need to wire up my 2 27W LED work lights, and I'll be ready for snow pushing.
PHPaul
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650, Pronovost snow blower, Landpride rotary mower, Howard tiller, box blade
I decided this Spring that this would be my last year raising sheep.
A week ago today, I took the last load of lambs to the slaughter house.
Since then, I've been "de-sheepifying" the place. Removing gates so I can actually get from A to B without getting on and off the tractor a half-dozen times to open and close gates.
Removing fence and posts that will no longer be needed such as around the garden and in the drainage ditches.
Removing the cages around the various trees and shrubs that needed to be protected from the sheep (they LOVE evergreens...).
Throughout this drill, I've had the forks on my loader for pulling posts (choke chain around the bottom bar on the fork frame) and lugging off old posts and fence.
While the cages (built from cattle panels and T-posts) did a great job of keeping the sheep from chowing down on my shrubbery, they made trimming and pruning a once-a-year pain in the sitter. So I spent most of today trimming up underneath all the trees and lilacs and pruning and such.
Again, the forks worked great for lugging off the trimmings and pulling the posts.
Of all the things I love about my new Kubota, that SSQA on the loader may be the greatest.
A week ago today, I took the last load of lambs to the slaughter house.
Since then, I've been "de-sheepifying" the place. Removing gates so I can actually get from A to B without getting on and off the tractor a half-dozen times to open and close gates.
Removing fence and posts that will no longer be needed such as around the garden and in the drainage ditches.
Removing the cages around the various trees and shrubs that needed to be protected from the sheep (they LOVE evergreens...).
Throughout this drill, I've had the forks on my loader for pulling posts (choke chain around the bottom bar on the fork frame) and lugging off old posts and fence.
While the cages (built from cattle panels and T-posts) did a great job of keeping the sheep from chowing down on my shrubbery, they made trimming and pruning a once-a-year pain in the sitter. So I spent most of today trimming up underneath all the trees and lilacs and pruning and such.
Again, the forks worked great for lugging off the trimmings and pulling the posts.
Of all the things I love about my new Kubota, that SSQA on the loader may be the greatest.
I did my first ever service on my new' Sunshine L1-22DT. I've had it for 4 days and thought the best way to learn about my tractor was to do a service. I should explain that I have never owned a tractor before, am not in any way mechanically inclined and usually stick to playing guitar.
I first had to find a place with parts here on the Gold Coast. The L2950 is apparently my U.S equivalent.
So I changed the air filter. Easy.
Drained the engine oil and replaced the filter. Easy.
Added coolant to the radiator which was only water. Super easy.
Changed the fuel filter. Had to get a new bowl as well as the old one had deteriotared so badly. Took Vics advice in regards to bleeding the lines. didn't tighten, let the fuel flow for a minute, then tightened fully.
Now for the hydraulic filter. It would not come off. Tried everything. Every tool. No luck. Stuck solid. The filter has a nut affixed to the bottom of the outer case? Well it just snapped off. Eventually drove a screwdriver through it and used that to twist. Finally came off. The problem is the new filter I have been supplied is the incorrect thread. It just won't go on. So back to the parts shop tomorrow with fingers crossed.
Filled the front axle with 3.5litres of 80/90 gear oil. It appeared dry. I thought the little dipstick attached to the bottom of the nut you unscrew was a very cool idea. Does anyone know if when using the dipstick you take your measurement when fully screwed back in, or just putting the dipstick in (without screwing the nut back in)?
Checked the slasher gear box. My understanding is that the tiny nut is screwed off and used as an indicator of when to stop putting oil in. When it starts to come out of the little hole, you stop. Well as soon as I unscrewed it the oil poured out so I figure it had been overfilled.
So the last thing on my list is to replace the hydraulic filter and then top up the hydraulic fluid, using the little sight hole under the clutch.
I know some of you guys do this in your sleep, but I gotta admit I have had an absolute blast working on my tractor. I've found out a lot about it. The important places where oil must be regularly checked or changed.
Now just to find that hydraulic filter .
Update - I just re read Vics instructions on changing fuel filters. He mentions ensuring you replace the small Spring between the bottom of filter and sedimentary bowl. When I took out my old filter there was no Spring there at all? Nor in the bowl. Anyone know if this will be an issue as I have put the new filter in with no spring.
I first had to find a place with parts here on the Gold Coast. The L2950 is apparently my U.S equivalent.
So I changed the air filter. Easy.
Drained the engine oil and replaced the filter. Easy.
Added coolant to the radiator which was only water. Super easy.
Changed the fuel filter. Had to get a new bowl as well as the old one had deteriotared so badly. Took Vics advice in regards to bleeding the lines. didn't tighten, let the fuel flow for a minute, then tightened fully.
Now for the hydraulic filter. It would not come off. Tried everything. Every tool. No luck. Stuck solid. The filter has a nut affixed to the bottom of the outer case? Well it just snapped off. Eventually drove a screwdriver through it and used that to twist. Finally came off. The problem is the new filter I have been supplied is the incorrect thread. It just won't go on. So back to the parts shop tomorrow with fingers crossed.
Filled the front axle with 3.5litres of 80/90 gear oil. It appeared dry. I thought the little dipstick attached to the bottom of the nut you unscrew was a very cool idea. Does anyone know if when using the dipstick you take your measurement when fully screwed back in, or just putting the dipstick in (without screwing the nut back in)?
Checked the slasher gear box. My understanding is that the tiny nut is screwed off and used as an indicator of when to stop putting oil in. When it starts to come out of the little hole, you stop. Well as soon as I unscrewed it the oil poured out so I figure it had been overfilled.
So the last thing on my list is to replace the hydraulic filter and then top up the hydraulic fluid, using the little sight hole under the clutch.
I know some of you guys do this in your sleep, but I gotta admit I have had an absolute blast working on my tractor. I've found out a lot about it. The important places where oil must be regularly checked or changed.
Now just to find that hydraulic filter .
Update - I just re read Vics instructions on changing fuel filters. He mentions ensuring you replace the small Spring between the bottom of filter and sedimentary bowl. When I took out my old filter there was no Spring there at all? Nor in the bowl. Anyone know if this will be an issue as I have put the new filter in with no spring.
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PHPaul, after you get all your fencing removed you can put an ad on Cl to find someone just getting to farming and you'll raise enough funds for another implement!!
Landscape will be different, and the lack of critter noise will take a bit of getting use to.
What you going to do to keep busy?
Landscape will be different, and the lack of critter noise will take a bit of getting use to.
What you going to do to keep busy?
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Often debated in other threads - - did the "fall" oil change. Rotella T6 5-40.
Not many hours, but makes me feel better!!
Not many hours, but makes me feel better!!
Attachments
alansz400
New member
Equipment
B7500. FEL, Piranha tooth bar, box scraper, post hole digger, 3 pt. bucket
PHPaul
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650, Pronovost snow blower, Landpride rotary mower, Howard tiller, box blade
Most of the fence was short pieces, 50' or less and in hard shape. I put it on CL for free and somebody came and got it. I've got a crapload of metal fence posts tho. After I get settled in to the new routine I may sell some of them. Or not, it don't cost a dime for them to sit in a corner of the barn...
I still keep 3 dozen layers and buy 4-5 dozen meat birds every Spring so there's still some chores to do.
Plus I'll be expanding the veggie garden a little and adding a few more flower beds.
Also, I do a little general repair and small engine work. That plus keeping up the place keeps me occupied 8 months a year. Winters do get a tad long, I'm looking for a shop project now. Motorcycle or tractor or something to pizz money away on...
I painted the front of my frame and some other tin - damn I removed a lot of rust. Painted some bolts and bolt on frame parts too as well as the inside of my dash and skirts, steering support and column, etc.
After wire wheel on drill and naptha wash:
Rustoleum "hammer" finish on the inside -
Got a little tin and Bondo work to do before the show paint goes on the outside. I figure the silver will help with heat it's worked for me in the past and holds up really well. Not as good looking as Hammerite, but I can't get that locally anymore.
After wire wheel on drill and naptha wash:
Rustoleum "hammer" finish on the inside -
Got a little tin and Bondo work to do before the show paint goes on the outside. I figure the silver will help with heat it's worked for me in the past and holds up really well. Not as good looking as Hammerite, but I can't get that locally anymore.
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