Part 2 - new ballast box

[ctfjr]

So now that I replaced my lower lift pins I have to get the box heavy enough

Again, my goal is to have a lifting eye and a couple of threaded rod connections sticking out the top. The rods are for some future something that I'll think of someday

So I acquired a 3/4"X10 forged eye bolt from a friend and gathered up a 10' length of shallow strut, 6' ea of 1/2 and 3/4 threaded rod, and assorted hardware.

This is what it looks like now:

The top piece of strut will be bolted down to the top lip of the box. That should keep everything square while I shovel in 720lbs of concrete. The lifting eye should end up right in the center.
I'm not sure whether or not I am going to remove the top piece of strut when done. Right now I'm leaning to keeping it on.

 

[Nicfin36]

That should certainly secure it well. I will be interested to see the finished product.

 

[je1279]

Looks good. If I were you, I'd rent a concrete mixer positioned where I could easily dump it into the box. I'm all about working smarter rather than harder these days.

 

[chim]

If that top strut will be exposed, I'd flip it over before the pour. That way it would be more useful in the future. You could get strut nuts and position them anywhere along the strut as needed to hold things.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Before you pour, clean then epoxy paint the entire 'metal work' ! At least 2 coats. Steel-concrete-water is NOT a good combination. Just look at any bridge.....

 

[pokey1416]

Some line the ballast box with heavy duty trash bags too before placing concrete. In theory you could lift the block out although most of the boxes I have seen have an inward lip. It does isolate concrete from steel but I’m not sure the steel has to last 100 years anyway.

 

[Magicman]

I'm just eating popcorn and waiting for the next installment.

 

[ctfjr]

If that top strut will be exposed, I'd flip it over before the pour. That way it would be more useful in the future. You could get strut nuts and position them anywhere along the strut as needed to hold things.

Thank you very much

I may never do it but it can't hurt. btw to remove the strut I will have to cut it off around the eyebolt.

The strut is made to accept up to 5/8" bolts. A burr bit on the Dremel opened them up just enough for the 3/4 rod. Since the eyebolt was free I have a total of $28 invested in hardware. I regret having thrown out a lot of 'stuff' in the last couple of years that I could have used here.

 

[Creature Meadow]

Just a thought, stick 2 more pieces of pvc pipe in the corners and drill small hole in bottom for water to drain. Be couple more places to stick a rake, hoe, shovel etc.

When I made mine I took the opportunity to clean up broken bricks and cinder blocks to use as a filler. Then poured the concrete around it saving me some $ and got rid of the broke blocks and bricks. I would had small pieces then pour the concrete, repeat until full.

 

[pokey1416]

Just a thought, stick 2 more pieces of pvc pipe in the corners and drill small hole in bottom for water to drain. Be couple more places to stick a rake, hoe, shovel etc.

When I made mine I took the opportunity to clean up broken bricks and cinder blocks to use as a filler. Then poured the concrete around it saving me some $ and got rid of the broke blocks and bricks. I would had small pieces then pour the concrete, repeat until full.

Yes for sure on both sides. Mine came one side and with a shovel and broom it totally blocks my SMV sign on tractor. Ended up putting a stick on SMV on the ballast box.

 

[ctfjr]

Nobody told me what sh$%^y dirty job this was going to be Heavy lifting for an old fart like me, yeah I got that. After I finished I took my clothes off in the basement and went right to the laundry room.

It only took 9 60lb bags of concrete mix. the box weighs about 110lbs and my 'frame' about another 20. So I'm guessing it grosses out at 670lbs.

Oh, note to any masons who read this, your job is safe.